question about drywall installation

[ThatDudeOrion]

Since the previous owner of my garage was nice enough to put a 4 ft tall strip of peg board on the top half of the garage all the way around, all I need to do is throw up sheets of drywall on the lower half to close in the studs, and throw some paint down and it'll be looking pretty nice in there. I'm not prepared to insulate at this time and I won't be taping/mudding so I can just unscrew the drywall when I am ready for that and all the wiring and etc.

My question is what should I do about the unsightly ledge that's going to be left after I attach the drywall to all the studs? The problem is the studs are 2x4 on top of a 2x6 footer (leaving a 2 inch gap) which is on top of an 8 inch block foundation (leaving another 2 inch gap). See attached pic.

 

[dirttracker18]

Why are you concerned about drywall before completing teh electrical and insulation? If you never had anyplans to do it I could understand but why go through the trouble only to take it down later to do it right?

As for the bump out, rip down a 2x6 to cover the overage and install a large drip edge in aluminum with the colour of your choice.

However, do the work for insulation and electrical first. Taking down painted drywall and pegboard will be no fun and you will wish you had just done the other work first.

 

[ThatDudeOrion]

Why are you concerned about drywall before completing teh electrical and insulation? If you never had anyplans to do it I could understand but why go through the trouble only to take it down later to do it right?

As for the bump out, rip down a 2x6 to cover the overage and install a large drip edge in aluminum with the colour of your choice.

However, do the work for insulation and electrical first. Taking down painted drywall and pegboard will be no fun and you will wish you had just done the other work first.

Yeah, I know it sounds weird but drywall and screws are cheap and my time is free, insulation and electrical are not. I already have to take down the pegboard when its time to do those bigger jobs and that may literally be years down the road, so removing the drywall won't be adding too much to the PITA factor. This way with a little effort and money I can have the look of the finished garage that I'm after and the benefits of the brighter more reflective surfaces while I work in there the next couple years. Its not that I don't have any electrical, I do have a few 110/15A circuits in the garage, which will get me by, but I need more and 220v etc.

Thanks for the idea about filling the gap and capping it with some aluminum though I appreciate it.

 

[NCtim]

Yeah, I know it sounds weird but drywall and screws are cheap and my time is free, insulation and electrical are not. I already have to take down the pegboard when its time to do those bigger jobs and that may literally be years down the road, so removing the drywall won't be adding too much to the PITA factor. This way with a little effort and money I can have the look of the finished garage that I'm after and the benefits of the brighter more reflective surfaces while I work in there the next couple years. Its not that I don't have any electrical, I do have a few 110/15A circuits in the garage, which will get me by, but I need more and 220v etc.

Thanks for the idea about filling the gap and capping it with some aluminum though I appreciate it.

In other words, you're never going to insulate and run electrical. It'll never get done, because 5, 10 years down the road you'll have other stuff that needs to get done. When I was 40 I had all the time in world. Now that I'm pushing 55 I have an urgency to get everything done, and done right.

Cheers!

 

[JakeKohl]

I've seen some guys actually shape and glue the drywall over that curb - but it's incredibly prone to damage. I drywalled down to my curb and just painted the curb to match the wall.

 

[Jim_No_Garage]

You could drywall and then put a piece of trim on the face of the 2 x 6 and a cap that buts to the drywall.

Plan B is to cap the base first, drywall and put shoe moulding to cover the joint at the bottom of the drywall. It would be easier to remove the drywall by removing the shoe.

Kind of like the attached.

Jim

 

[tcianci]

First of all, you used the term "unsightly" to describe the exposed mudsill of the garage wall. I'm guessing that drywall, screwed to the studs and left un-taped is a close second in the "unsightly" race.

If and when you do finish the job, just paint the bottom, it's going to get covered up by all the **** that gets stacked against the garage walls anyway

 

[JakeKohl]

First of all, you used the term "unsightly" to describe the exposed mudsill of the garage wall. I'm guessing that drywall, screwed to the studs and left un-taped is a close second in the "unsightly" race.

good point.

 

[ThatDudeOrion]

To the guys that provided useful suggestions, thanks!

To the others who just offered critiques of my plan and semantics, thanks?

 

[JakeKohl]

you gotta take the good with the bad....

 

[jmlcolorado]

To avoid going into firther details about why wiring and insulation are not your next priority, ill put in my 2 cents for the drywall
Is the 2x6 a top plate as well?
If so, maybe installing new 2x4 studs next to the existing would be good. It would be almost like a thermo gap. They use this method often in windows to help keep heat ( and cool) transfer between inside and outside.
This would also aid in noise reduction as well.

 

[jmlcolorado]

Here's a picture of what I'm thinking.