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Question about fabricating steel shelf brackets

Onewolf

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I am going to need approx 100 right angle shelf brackets for mounting the shelf benchwork for my model train layout. I want pure 90 degree brackets with no secondary support beam and I have not been able to find what I am looking for so I am thinking about fabricating them myself.

I am going to need most of the brackets (75) to support 16"-18" deep benchwork and some to support 24" deep benchwork (25). The benchwork/layout will not be very heavy and I plan to mount the brackets on either 16" or 24" spacing (depending on the wall stud spacing).

I was thinking about buying 1/4" x 1 1/2" flat bar stock and a metal bender in order to fabricate the brackets myself. I'm looking at this Northern Tools bender and this flat bar stock (A-36 hot rolled).

Questions: Do you think the Northern Tools bender would provide the precision needed to bend flat bar stock consistently at exactly 90 degrees?

Mechanical Properties:Brinell = 112, Tensile = 48-80K +/-,
Yield = 35-36K +/-

Would the listed 1/4" x 1.5" flat bar stock provide the long term strength/rigidity to support 16"-24" deep benchwork? (The benchwork will be a combination of either 5/8" plywood + 1" rigid foam or 1x3 open grid)


Thanks for any advice/comments.
 
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kazlx

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That bender will easily do consistent bends once you get your method and stops set up. I don't think you'd have a problem doing 1/8". I don't think you'd have strength problems either if the load isn't very heavy and spread out.
 

James-W

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I would think the brace/strut would be pretty important for strength. I know he said there wouldn't be a lot of weight on it, but still, if it is 2 feet wide I tend to think the brace/strut should be there.
 

MoonRise

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Can that bender (or similar, like from H-F, etc) bend some 1/4" x 1-1/2" flat bar at 90 deg to make some brackets?

Yes.

Mark and cut and do a test bend or two to compensate for the "spring back" and then set the stop(s) and you should be able to crank out the brackets pretty quickly once the bender is set-up.

Will a plain steel "L" bracket of that bent steel hold up a 'shelf' 16-24" deep made of some 5/8" thick plywood with some other 'stuff' on top of it?

Not in my estimate.

Put the 'angle brace' (strut) onto that same bracket and it will hold a lot of weight.

Without the brace/strut, not so much weight at all. Plain "L" 16-24" long off the wall and the first time you lean your hand on the end it will bend.

Yeah, and 100 brackets at $7 a pop and I'd be looking into making them myself too.
 

carhunter

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You'll have to account for spring-back when you bend the bar stock, and without reinforcement I'd worry about flex whenever someone puts any additional weight on the shelf.

Can you weld? How about setting up a simple jig in a vise, heat the stock and bend, then tack weld in a gusset? The gussets are cheap and pretty closely toleranced to 90 degrees.

With this method you save the cost of the bender and end up with a stronger solution. (and you have a cool lightening hole to run wires through)

018562_LG.jpg


link to site...45 cents each

http://www.appliedracing.com/roll-bars-cages-and-components/roll-bar-gusset.html
 

Kaizen

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bender will do it. brackets won't. not witout some support. why is it so important to have it floating? 2 foot on center too much weight. it will flex which I don't think you want at all on those detailed setups. what kind of wall is behind it? thought about using 2x4s screwed to both sides of the wall joists? heck of a lot cheaper and way easier. if its an inside wall you can even use the wall space for little houses and stuff. you can cut the end of the support so it doesn't show when standing up or just box the all in for the floating affect.
 

theoldwizard1

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First, you will go broke having steel sent to your house. Find a local supplier.

Second what you real want is a "press brake". Yes, this means you need a hydraulic press. The HF one is fine. Then get a SWAG Off Road press brake - $350 (assembled and shipped). With this you can do 5 or 10 of your brackets at time.

You should be able to sell both of those fairly easily.

Better yet, look for a machine shop that has a press brake. It might be worth the cost to have them make them.

The problem with putting a 90° bend in 1/4" steel is that it might crack/tear at the outside of the bend. Someone smarter than me will have to advise you if you have the proper type of steel.
 
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404

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There may be a similar final cost getting the brackets fabricated.
The current plan has shipping cost of the metal in it.

There is a decent volume, Tolerances can be broad/wide, and the holes for the screws can get punched at the same time.

If you are willing to deburr yourself that will save money as well.

Here are some fabricators in "Central Florida"

http://www.custometalfabricatorsinc.com/#!services/cee5

http://www.jomarmetal.com/services_and_equipment.php

http://www.preferredmetal.com/metal-bending.html

Make a sketch, call for a quote. Someone may have a lot of metal sitting around that is near the size you need, that will cut costs as well.
 
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404

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The problem with putting a 90° bend in 1/4" steel is that it might crack/tear at the outside of the bend. Someone smarter than me will have to advise you if you have the proper type of steel.


This depends on the bend radius, which in a press brake depends on the width of the bottom die.
 

Milton Shaw

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You need to punch the holes to attach while you are in the process of making them. Drilling all those holes will drive you crazy and take a month. An Iron Worker press can do both of those jobs in probably a hour or two. Cut to length, bend, punch all in one machine in very short time. You need to find someone close to fabricate them that has an IronWorker.
 
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Onewolf

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Thanks for all the replies.

Finding a local fabricator is definitely an option, but I want to explore my options in case they say $20/each.

They brackets cannot have a support 'strut' because these brackets are going to be used to support the middle level of the layout and any sort of struts would impinge on the 'airspace' of the lower level and the ability to have a seamless backdrop for the lower level.

I have used those cheap light shelf brackets on the previous layout and they are not long enough nor sturdy enough to support the benchwork like I want.
 

akdiesel

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Onewolf

An option for you might be Unistrut / Superstrut.
They make brackets that span the distance you are needing but you can also simply make your own by welding flat backing plates or bolting the strut to strut that is mounted to the wall.
I have used many of both of these designs for my shop layout to support 200# each and in some cases more.
If you use the 7/8" x 14 gauge strut that lowes sells as the vertical support fastened to the wall with the 1 5/8" x 12 gauge strut cut to the length you need for the horizontal shelf support I think it would meet your needs.
You can look at my build to see what I am talking about.
 

BD1

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I think you will get too much deflection with flat stock unless you add a gusset. Will angle iron work ? Maybe consider 1 x 1 x 1/4 .
 

NUTTSGT

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I think you will get too much deflection with flat stock unless you add a gusset. Will angle iron work ? Maybe consider 1 x 1 x 1/4 .

That's what I would be doing, making my own brackets. Break out the chop saw , drill press and welder.
 

kelpaso1

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Find each stud and drill a 1" hole in it and push a lengthy of pipe in there.
Plenty strong enough.
I have a lot of shelves like this.
No bending needed of anything.

I don't think I would do this on a load bearing wall. Not much of the stud left to support any weight:willy_nil
 

CGT80

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Horizontal flat stock will bend easily. Turn that flat stock on edge and it is much less likely to bend.

Op mentioned 1x3 open frame work. What is that? If you are thinking of setting the 1x3 with the 3" sides facing left and right, so it is on edge, you could build steel supports inside the wood structure, or build the wood around the steel supports. Of course this will make your shelf about 3" thick.

You could also build a structure out of angle iron and set 1/2" plywood inside the angle iron frames and run the foam over the plywood and steel sections. Finish off the front edge so it looks like a single piece.
 

kbs2244

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I will second the angle iron idea.
But I would go to 4x4x1/4
Mabe even 6x4x1/4 to give you an area to bolt to.
 
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