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Question about floresent lights

HOTRODPRIMER

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Apr 3, 2006
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46
Location
Anderson,S.C.
I've been a member here since 2006 but post very little.

I also noticed I posted in the incorrect section,like I said I don't post often.

I have a question concerning the 4 foot double lights in my shop.

The shop was built in 2004 and in the last few months I can walk in the shop an flip the 3 light switches and I may get 4 or 5 lights may come on,,if I flip them on and off most might light up.

This is aggravating,I am not a electrician and I have replaced a few bulbs but that hasn't helped,,,ideas? HRP
 
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Cyberbear

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Nov 23, 2013
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California
It may have to do with the type of ballast in each light fixture. The cheaper lights used an electronic starter to light the tubes, but the old style ballasts seem to work better in the long run. Try replacing one of them to see if that cures your problem. cheaper than a new fixture most of the time.
 

matt_i

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Mar 14, 2008
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10,728
Location
SE Michigan
The ballasts are very cheaply manufactured as part of a "big box store" fixture kit. To replace the ballast with something better, it can cost almost as much as the entire fixture.

The Advance-brand ballast seems to hold up better than most in T8 duty but its definitely not bulletproof.
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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14,065
Tommy has it.
Bulbs first then, maybe, ballasts.
Even cheap ballasts should last 10 years.
 
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toplessHO

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Oct 20, 2014
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central florida
you guys might even want to get into this century and go with T5 upgrade.
T8s are the cheapest to redo,new lamps and a ballast for under $50 each
dont go cheap on the ballasts tho.
 

wayne55

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Oct 28, 2010
Messages
359
I had a similar problem. I had a mixture of bulbs in my shop and some would work fine and some might not come on or delay in coming on. I finally saw that the bulbs that worked were the 34 watt and the bulbs giving problems were 40 watt. I may have given up a little in light, but I changed all to 34 watt and that has worked for me.
 

LS6 Tommy

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Dec 27, 2013
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Northern NJ
I had a similar problem. I had a mixture of bulbs in my shop and some would work fine and some might not come on or delay in coming on. I finally saw that the bulbs that worked were the 34 watt and the bulbs giving problems were 40 watt. I may have given up a little in light, but I changed all to 34 watt and that has worked for me.

That happens a lot, too. Can't run 40's on the "new" ballasts. Good call!

Tommy
 

Lassen Forge

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Apr 26, 2014
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Location
The romantic hills of central Umbria, Italy,
Ballasts and fluorescent tubes get old and burn out. Plus the larger (in diameter) the tubes are, the more temperature sensitive they are...

My shop had T-12's originally (inch and a half diameter tubes) - they put out "okay" light, but get them below 32 and they would do what you said (or worse). And the tubes would go out pretty quickly. I started replacing them with T-8's (inch diameter) and the light was somewhat better, and they'd fire down to about 20 above. Then someone talked me into getting a T-5 fixture (those really skinny tubes, 5/8") and I changed everything over to them - superior light, and they fire off reliably down to zero (so far)...

I just hope someone doesn't give me one of those LED shop fixtures... I saw a shop with LED, and it put my (awesome) T-5's to shame.
 

LS6 Tommy

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Dec 27, 2013
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26,162
Location
Northern NJ
you guys might even want to get into this century and go with T5 upgrade.
T8s are the cheapest to redo,new lamps and a ballast for under $50 each
dont go cheap on the ballasts tho.

I'd retfrofit to T5's in a heartbeat, if anybody made a reasonably priced package for my old freebie 8' T12 single pin fixtures...

Tommy
 
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