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Question about high bay replacement for my barn

rjpricejr

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Nov 16, 2024
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So some background. I finished my 40x50x14 barn in 2017 and the lights were installed in 10/2017. As of today, 7 out of the 12 high bay lights (James 2ft, 165watt, 5000K, ZY-H5-165W) have at least one or both lights out. I guess I am disappointed they only lasted this long. They are way up there! Renting a scissor lift up there!

They are switched by 3 switches, each switch controlling 4 fixtures, all on one 20 amp breaker. In researching replacements, I figured the existing fixtures were actually 82.5% of the breaker's capacity? Here is my math:

165 Watts x 12 fixtures = 1,980 watts / 20 amp breaker x 120v = 2,400 watts = 82.5% of the breaker's capacity.

Did I figure this correctly?
Did the electrician not do it to code?
Can I replace with 165 watt fixtures?
Any advice?

Thanks!
 
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Bert_

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It's not a problem with the wiring. Just crappy fixtures.

I'm having the same issue with Lithonia fixtures in the electrical shop. Just had a second fixture start to die last week. Maybe 10 years old. Drivers are good and no easy repair options for the led boards. It's disappointing but you just have to replace them.
 

mm08822

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See if you can find the stated lumen output for the existing fixtures. You could adjust your lighting level up or down with new fixtures based on how you liked/disliked the current foot-candle level. Just don't exceed the 165w rating.
 
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rjpricejr

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Thanks for the replies. The Lumen output of the original lights was 24,563 (294,756 total for 12). I was happy with the light output when they all worked. I was planning to replace the lights with new 165W fixtures, hopefully with even higher lumen output.

My main question is whether the sparky exceeded the breaker 80% rule or if 82.5% is "close enough." Does the fact that there are three switches change the 80% rule for the breaker?
 

sparky 1971

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Thanks for the replies. The Lumen output of the original lights was 24,563 (294,756 total for 12). I was happy with the light output when they all worked. I was planning to replace the lights with new 165W fixtures, hopefully with even higher lumen output.

My main question is whether the sparky exceeded the breaker 80% rule or if 82.5% is "close enough." Does the fact that there are three switches change the 80% rule for the breaker?
The 80% rule is for continuous loads; a continuous load is something that is expected to be used for three or more hours at a time. Exceeding it won't hurt anything, the breaker might get a little warm, but nothing bad is going to happen and it's definitely not why your lights are failing.
 

mm08822

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Thanks for the replies. The Lumen output of the original lights was 24,563 (294,756 total for 12). I was happy with the light output when they all worked. I was planning to replace the lights with new 165W fixtures, hopefully with even higher lumen output.

My main question is whether the sparky exceeded the breaker 80% rule or if 82.5% is "close enough." Does the fact that there are three switches change the 80% rule for the breaker?
You have a good baseline from the old fixtures to determine the new lighting level you would prefer to achieve with this fixture upgrade.

82.5% is close enough. That also assumes all run at the same time.
 
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tyromeo55

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As answered above. Your math is fine but unless there are odd circumstances your good per NEC or otherwise. As a general rule of thumb I try to never exceed 2K watts on a 20A ckt. your basically there but fine.

I've never heard or used of that fixture. brand. What are your plans moving forward? The actual leds (mfg calls them the light engine) generally have few issues. replacement of the drivers would probably get you all fixed up. Id do some testing b4 I bought parts.

From a contractors perspective replacement might not be much more $$ than repair. A Hyperlite 150W UFO high bay would put out approx the same light at $70 cost per. We have installed many many many thousands of them and only ever had like 1 bad within our warranty period. Can say that for any of the linear HBs

Where are you located?
 

T444e

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I'm having the same issue with Lithonia fixtures in the electrical shop. Just had a second fixture start to die last week. Maybe 10 years old. Drivers are good and no easy repair options for the led boards. It's disappointing but you just have to replace them.
WTF, I'm not an electrician, but I have seen them used on several high end projects. I thought they were a good brand.
 

cybrdyke

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WTF, I'm not an electrician, but I have seen them used on several high end projects. I thought they were a good brand.
In general, they are, but alot of the large manufacturers also have a low-grade family of products that's no better than the junk offered online. They dont even actually make them, they just buy them and re-box them.
All the online sellers and big box stores care about is offering the lowest price product. They dont offer the better stuff because the public isn't well enough educated about why it's better and they'll only buy the cheapest one. So, even if it's got a brand name, if it's at the big box store, it's the lowest grade they make.
Still, they're better than the ghost brand stuff you find online. Brands like Hyperikon (out of business), PLT, Hyperlites, Barrina, etc. are the lowest of the low.
CD
 

Spindifferent

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Sunco has a good selection of high-bay lights with 5-7 year warranties. My Sunco's are only 2 years old, so can't offer any perspective on longevity.


Good luck!
 
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rjpricejr

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As answered above. Your math is fine but unless there are odd circumstances your good per NEC or otherwise. As a general rule of thumb I try to never exceed 2K watts on a 20A ckt. your basically there but fine.

I've never heard or used of that fixture. brand. What are your plans moving forward? The actual leds (mfg calls them the light engine) generally have few issues. replacement of the drivers would probably get you all fixed up. Id do some testing b4 I bought parts.

From a contractors perspective replacement might not be much more $$ than repair. A Hyperlite 150W UFO high bay would put out approx the same light at $70 cost per. We have installed many many many thousands of them and only ever had like 1 bad within our warranty period. Can say that for any of the linear HBs

Where are you located?
Thanks for all of the replies.
I figured the I'll probably just replace them and do it myself. It sounds like a pretty straightforward replacement. My current fixtures are linear. Is there an advantage to the UFO type?

Also, can anyone suggest a reputable supplier that doesn't only stock the lowest grade fixtures? I'm thinking ~24k lumens/165-watt max. Any brands you like? Thanks!
 

cybrdyke

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From a lighting perspective, there is marginal differences between UFOs and linear. If the ceiling is 12' or lower, linear will cover better. But that's about it.
UFO's are easier and cheaper to make, which has pros and cons. The pro is that they'll probably end up costing you less. The con is that there are so many ghost brands that have no concern for quality but only want to separate you from your money.
Linears are a bit more difficult and cost more to build. Hence, there are fewer rip-off companies making them. Generally, linears last longer because the diodes are not directly under the driver.
Try to find a brand that you've actually heard of before. That's a good start. If not, then Google the brand name. See if the brand has an actual website (even this isn't foolproof). If it's only sold on Amazon, then skip it. I've given some examples of brands to skip in my post above. Brands you can trust are RAB, Satco, Eiko, Envision, Cooper, LEDvance. IF you must buy online, I'd only trust Green Lighting Wholesale.
Good luck.
CD
 

Bert_

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UFO's usually have worse glare since the light is more concentrated. The Lithonia UFO's I use have improved this issue while the linear highbays have gotten worse.

Since the UFO is cheaper and the difference in glare is not what it used to be I have moved to ufo's
 
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