Question about restoration

[Bennylava]

I'm just trying to learn about 1 aspect of old tool restoration. I'm wondering how you reapply... paint? Not sure if its even actually "paint". Anyway, this pic is just an example. Say that you were restoring this old tool, and the white lettering was gone. Or, where it says "Made in USA" at the bottom, its supposed to be white. How would you go about this? Its so small, how would you possibly get the paint to go into those indented letters, and nowhere else?



Next question. Would the new paint be as reliable as the old paint? Perhaps someone might want to actually use the old tool at some point. Its no good if your restoration falls to pieces when its used.

 

[four.cycle]

I would put a couple drops of Marvel Mystery Oil on it and rub it with a really soft cloth and see if maybe that would clean up some of that scuffing around the top edge there.
Other than that I wouldn't mess with it. The wear and tear and patina are part of its intrinsic value as a collector piece.

^ Just my lousy two cents, of course. It is a subject on which different men will have wildly divergent opinions.

Actually quite an interesting piece, by the way... it's a "palm ratchet", right?

Can we see another angle?

 

[Bennylava]

I'm sorry but I don't own that. That's just an image I stole from ebay to use as an example. I was asking what if all the white paint disappeared, how would you restore it and put the white paint back? And have it be durable.

Here's the ad, its got a few different angles.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-WILLIA...:g:H6wAAOSwbdpWWoZK&item=361439059113&vxp=mtr

 

[1930]

small brush, steady hand and patience

 

[1930]

If the letters are indented like that and you can scrape it than paint to fill/cover and scrape the top surface, Id also like to know how it was originally done but I cant imagine any other way.

 

[Bennylava]

I was thinking maybe if you put oil on all the rest, but no oil on/in the letters. Then the paint would only be able to stick to where you wanted. Let it all dry that way, don't even try to get the oil off until the paint has dried for a few days. Has to be some tough paint though, to be on a ratchet. Wonder what snap on uses.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Paint over the whole area of the letters with a brush, then use a rag wrapped around your finger to wipe off the excess.

 

[2000-cvpi]

Paint over the whole area of the letters with a brush, then use a rag wrapped around your finger to wipe off the excess.

I build plastic models, and that's how I do it for small detail painting, adding patina, etc. The process is best with a lint free paper towel or a scrap of old t shirt. Whatever you use, make sure it's smooth, not like a microfiber rag. If all the paint doesn't come off, a little paint thinner on a qtip will clear up the excess.

 

[gungatim]

be careful with some tools of over-restoring. on some old tools, like hand planes, it is not paint, it is "japanning", and they are more valuable with the original finish, in almost any condition, than blasting it off and painting. of course if you just want something to look nice, good enamel paint sanded with 1000 between coats and polished looks pretty darn good and lasts if you are not too tough on it...for the letters, magnifying glass and small brush. that's all this pic is, I used rustoleum machinery grey and hand painted the letters...

 

[Larryjones]

The white lettering is likely silk screened or pad printed. You can get water slide decal paper that may work. For the de-bossed lettering, check with Brownells, they have paint sticks for filling in the lettering on firearms. Me, personally, I would rather have it as it is instead of a restoration attempt.

 

[kleinkaliber]

For the lettering, I would use enamel in the little bottles meant for plastic models, then do as was suggested above, paint then wipe off the excess. My tool restoration is usually no more than rust removal and a little 0000 steel wool and oil, then put them to use.

 

[ZRX61]

For the lettering that is engraved into the part:
Use a paint stick like Larry mentioned. It's like a crayon, but basically made from paint. You just rub it over the lettering to fill it, then wipe with a rag to take off the excess.
Been using them for years on aircraft & motorcycle switchgear etc. Available in many colors: red, white, yellow, orange, blue, green, black etc.

 

[Bennylava]

And you'd say that the paint stick paint is pretty durable?

 

[LXCam]

Very durable, just make certain the area is very clean. BTW, I still can't figure out if you're restoring a plamster like that one or if this was just a general question. But if it's regarding a palmster, those aren't some ole collectable anything other then just a ratchet. Sure it's cool and I bought on brand new maybe 30 years ago just because of the name. But by no means worth "restoring", just use it for what it is, a tool. I'll check mine and see if the bottom letters where white, I don't think they are.

Oop's guess I was wrong, it is white.

And like I said I bought this some 30yrs ago. Does the condition tell you how much it's been used in the time........ya like nothing.

And HEY, I noticed your picture says SUPER Plamster and mines just your everyday regular palmster, Anyone know what the difference is/was?

 

[ZRX61]

And you'd say that the paint stick paint is pretty durable?

Yup, not had issues with m/c switchgear over the years & even if there were an issue, it would only take a mere moment to re-apply it.

 

[SweetD]

Remember, there is also a whole school/camp that would tell you "clean it up, but don't restore it". There's something to be said for that, depending on current condition of the tool.

 

[bisley45]

Very easy to do the white letters just paint it with any old white paint I used some of my wife's finger nail paint to re do this old switch, just used a q-tip dipped in the paint and rubbed it on the letters then with a paper towel just wipe of the excess.

 

[bonneyman]

Man, that palmster really looks useful!

 

[1930]

Man, that palmster really looks useful!

Look again, its not a palmster, its a SUPER Palmster.

 

[Bennylava]

The white lettering is likely silk screened or pad printed. You can get water slide decal paper that may work. For the de-bossed lettering, check with Brownells, they have paint sticks for filling in the lettering on firearms. Me, personally, I would rather have it as it is instead of a restoration attempt.

You're talking about these types of paint sticks:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...color-fill-sticks/lacquer-stik--prod7778.aspx


And yeah it was just a general question. I don't own that tool. I just have a lot of stuff that I'd like to fill in the letters on. It was also a question about durable precision painting that would hold up to being touched a lot over time, and would hold up against oil and grease. Aside from tools, I was also asking for painting OEM automotive switches. If it would last on a frequently used ratchet, it would definitely last on a mustang headlight knob. Or insert random automotive switch here.