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Question about Roll-up Doors

PapaD

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Joined
Mar 31, 2009
Messages
205
Location
North East, Ga
:beer::beer:Getting serious about breaking ground for the shop. 28x36 with three 8h x 10 wide roll up doors on the side wall. Also, ten ft side walls and 7- 12 pitch. One bay will be walled off for wood work. I live in North Georgia, but I can see North Carolina from my back porch.

Now for my questions. How hard is it going to be to heat the 24 x 28 "car" side with 20 foot of roll up doors and scissor tryusses?

Any body put up thier own roll ups? And where did you get them?
 
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pfarber

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Joined
Jun 24, 2012
Messages
109
Location
Gordon, PA
Roll up doors are a snap to install. Forget about bracing a motor, tracking etc.

Intallation is a snap.

Frame out the opening.
Bolt the two vertical tracks to the framing. At the top install the L brackets that will hold the door shaft. Lift rolled up door onto brackets, feed into tracks, drill holes for u-bolts and tension spring with a short cheater bar (the door's installation instructions should tell you how many turns to put on the main shaft before you clamp it down.

There is a gap between the wall and the top of the unrolled door. But you can buy a filler (it looks like a broom head... can't think of what its called) to close it up.

They are not insulated, but I think you can but insulated ones.

Look on ebay for prices. I think a 10x10 is like $600
 
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PapaD

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Joined
Mar 31, 2009
Messages
205
Location
North East, Ga
estanley is really a fan of mine. He's just jealous because I retired December 1:beer: What's up bro? i bet the insulated doors are expensive.
 

Charles (in GA)

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Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
If you are in Douglasville, you have damm good eyesight if you can see North Carolina.

Are you talking about a true roll up door, ie, one manufactured by DBCI in Douglasville, or an actual sectional garage door?

Here is my DBCI 10x10 door.

attachment.php


MY THREAD about the problem with roll up doors

I have no idea how you would go about insulating a roll up door, it would add to the thickness of the door and preventing it from rolling up. They do make roll up doors that are made from interlocking slats (think Overhead Door Company) but they are industrial in nature and crazy expensive. Not sure if they make insulated slats or not.

Roll up doors cannot be made to fit tight, no matter what you do, how many seals you install, it just isn't going to happen. With a sectional door, with seals on the sides and top, you can seal them about air tight, but not a roll up.

If you are using an 8 ft opening, buy a 10 ft tall door, and cut about a foot off the tracks. Install the roll way up above the door header and this will leave the door passing an equidistance from the header at all times and positions, leaving you a small 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap to close with a rubber seal. If you install an 8 ft door in an 8 ft opening (I did a 10 ft in a 10 ft opening) you get into a situation where the gap at the top gets huge with the door rolled down, and very tiny with it rolled up (when you don't care what the gap is). See my thread on this problem for my solution.

Charles
 
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PapaD

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Mar 31, 2009
Messages
205
Location
North East, Ga
Thanks Charles (in Ga). Good info there. I have to change my profile since I relocated to Young Harris. I recycle my cardboard now.
 

AndyL

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Joined
Feb 22, 2012
Messages
1,371
Location
Vancouver
Fwiw dbci actually makes an insulated sheet door... Its marginally better than nothing (just that bubble wrap with the foil on both sides)

There used to be a company with something more substantial - name is escaping me... It was basically 2 curtains back to back with some spot welds and urethane...

I don't understand the sheet door love myself... They're cheap, but that's about their only redeeming quality. I'm not understanding why people spend a fortune on American made tools and equipment then buy some cheap POS door?
 

Ronzzr11

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Joined
Feb 23, 2012
Messages
224
Location
Bolton England
There is a gap between the wall and the top of the unrolled door. But you can buy a filler (it looks like a broom head... can't think of what its called) to close it up.

I think you mean brush strip. You can also fit a canopy to the top of the door, around where the door rolls up, to help keep out draughts.
Ron
 

BudgetRacing

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Joined
Dec 30, 2012
Messages
61
Location
Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
Lots of manufacturers install a draft stop into the top hood which will prevent most wind blowing over the top of the barrel (where the door wraps onto). Cookston, Kinnear, Overhead Door and many others sell insulated rolling steel doors. If you want something a bit cheaper I know Clopay now sells a pretty decent line of rolling steel doors as well.
 

Modifieddriver

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2009
Messages
820
Location
Moonville, South Carolina
I have a 12' and 16' slatted "canister" overhead doors by Over Head Door Co. Yes, they were expensive. They've been up for about 15 years. Worth every extra penny.

I'll be installing three of the same or similar in my upcoming shop project.

I have a 18' steel paneled door on the house. I wish it was a canister door.
 
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