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Question about sockets

steve855

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Dec 30, 2019
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61
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PA
The short answer is - keep them!

Even if you don’t need them for your current vehicles, you may change to something different, or you might need the tools for other tasks!

With regard to the sizes you mention -

11 - is the DIN (German) standard size for a 7mm bolt. They’re not common, but they’re out there.

13 - is the DIN and ISO (International) standard size for an 8mm bolt. 10 and 13 are probably the most common sizes worldwide. You will find this size on things like lag screws too.

15 - is an ANSI (American) standard size. It’s being replaced by 16, but I believe they are common in the U.S.

16 and 18 are ISO standard sizes replacing 17 and 19, you will find them more and more, but not on Japanese vehicles (yet).

20 - is seldom used. Most European sets never include it.

23 - is an older French size.
I recently removed & installed intake & exhaust mahifolds on BMW M54 inline six. Studs are 7mm thread, hex nuts are 11mm. That 1/4 drive 11mm socket has been hanging around my toolbox since the 90s, taking up space! Finally had its moment in the sun. I really didn't think I'd ever use it.
 
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545_days

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Oct 30, 2016
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Texas
I work on Alfa Romeo, Bertone, Lancia, Fiat, and a Ram pickup. I'm not sure the Italians had a standard. I know they were not always consistent about fasteners from year to year. Between the vehicles and Random projects around the house I have every finally filled in all my socket holders with no skips. It is nice to be able to glance at the toll cart and be able to tell that they have all been put back.

I'll bet my sockets are from at least a dozen different brands.
 

nadogail

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Coronado, CA
I work on Alfa Romeo, Bertone, Lancia, Fiat, and a Ram pickup. I'm not sure the Italians had a standard. I know they were not always consistent about fasteners from year to year. Between the vehicles and Random projects around the house I have every finally filled in all my socket holders with no skips. It is nice to be able to glance at the toll cart and be able to tell that they have all been put back.

I'll bet my sockets are from at least a dozen different brands.
IMHO, The only consistentcy has been their inconsistency
 

Etchase

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Nov 10, 2017
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Location
Hawaii
Clearly you need a full size top box, and a mid-box. The box you’re using now can go on the floor, until you buy a small roller to go under it.
 

Old Man Roger

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Palm Coast Florida
Clearly you need a full size top box, and a mid-box. The box you’re using now can go on the floor, until you buy a small roller to go under it.
So many of the worlds problems can be solved with a bigger box.lol

The words “Bigger Box” are Garage Journals version of “42“ from The Hitchhikers Guide To The Galaxy.
 

Dave455

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Mar 19, 2013
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Sussex, England
I recently removed & installed intake & exhaust mahifolds on BMW M54 inline six. Studs are 7mm thread, hex nuts are 11mm. That 1/4 drive 11mm socket has been hanging around my toolbox since the 90s, taking up space! Finally had its moment in the sun. I really didn't think I'd ever use it.
Well there you go!

In theory, the 7mm is a “non preferred” size under ISO, so might be seen less.

But in reality, as soon as you move away from standard fasteners, and start dealing with flange nuts, studs, hydraulic fittings, banjo fittings - or whatever, all bets are off!

And this is always the problem I have found with metric. I can fix pretty much anything found on a car with about 4 or 5 Whitworth sizes. I need at least 7 to cover the same range in SAE, and about 11 for metric!

In theory you only need about 5 “standard” sizes, but there are too many standards, and too many “specials”.
 

steve855

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Dec 30, 2019
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PA
Well there you go!

In theory, the 7mm is a “non preferred” size under ISO, so might be seen less.

But in reality, as soon as you move away from standard fasteners, and start dealing with flange nuts, studs, hydraulic fittings, banjo fittings - or whatever, all bets are off!

And this is always the problem I have found with metric. I can fix pretty much anything found on a car with about 4 or 5 Whitworth sizes. I need at least 7 to cover the same range in SAE, and about 11 for metric!

In theory you only need about 5 “standard” sizes, but there are too many standards, and too many “specials”.
The BMW I'm working on is a 2003, I think it must have been a transitional era from DIN to ISO or something. I need pretty much every size from 8mm to 19mm- except 12mm, I don't think I've encountered those on this car.
I just did an engine swap though, so I was into just about everything under the hood.
 
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Dave455

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The BMW I'm working on is a 2003, I think it must have been a transitional era from DIN to ISO or something. I need pretty much every size from 8mm to 19mm- except 12mm, I don't think I've encountered those on this car.
I just did an engine swap though, so I was into just about everything under the hood.
Yes, I think you are dead right.

I’ve got a 2005, and that’s pretty much ISO - 16’s and 18’s, but the crucial words are “pretty much” - there are always the odd one or two that escaped the change. And of course the wheel bolts are 17mm, and the hose clips are 6mm, not 5.5 or 7, and…. and…

Good job on the engine swap. Mine is all original - 122k, but due to age I’ve had to swap just about every gasket, most of the brake and suspension components, and all manner of plastic parts.
 

midorix

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Jun 27, 2012
Messages
169
I too own only Japanese vehicles, six of them. I keep all of the sockets and here’s why.

1. Once friends and family found out I can fix cars, they asked for help and they don’t all drive japanese cars.

2. On occasion damaged or rusted bolts required using the oddball sizes to fit.

3. I still buy sets as it’s way cheaper than buying them individually even if you account for unneeded sizes. I solved some of the overstocking issue by buying Japanese brand tools such as Koken and KTC as their sets are typically only include sizes used for Japanese cars.
 

Old Man Roger

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Palm Coast Florida
I’ve worked on everything from tiny remote control helicopters to garbage trucks, and everything in between. I don’t think I have an unused tool, and like a lot of garage journal members, I have a metric **** ton of them..lol
 

Pinemarten

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Jan 23, 2023
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Washington
This thread is a Gold Mine of good advice for the OP. And we haven't even gotten to the "where will I need the tool" question. In my case, tools in the Toyota Tacoma won't help if I'm riding my motorcycle. Tools at home only help out at home............etc.

I'd suggest you buy sets and lay in an emergency stash in your vehicle(s), and the motherland for home. You also should consider getting some SAE (Imperial) sockets/wrenches to work on older US stuff and other tools or equipment made in that standard.
 

dscheidt

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Apr 26, 2017
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2,880
Agreed. I've never quite understood what scenario might feasibly call for a 1/2" impact on an 8 or 10mm fastener. I mean, you can easily twist these right off by hand.
Using a single tool is a nice thing. Easier to zip it off with an over powered tool, rather than having another tool to carry or get out. (And m6 12.9 torque specs hit 20 NM/15 ft-lbs. Allow for lock tite, galling, or other corrosion, and they can take a surprising amount of torque to get loose.) Putting it back together, you probably don't want to use the 1/2 impact, of course.
 

GX460DIYguy

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Aug 26, 2023
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Texas
Why do you keep buying sets? Just buy the sockets you need. The rest either sit in the drawer, or you sell/give them away
This. I’ve always bought sets before and having Toyota and Lexus vehicles means that I really only need 8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 21, 24, 30, and 35. Since I’ve started doing most of the work on my vehicles I’ve started getting singles in just what I need along with any specialty tools. I still have a couple 11 and 13 sockets and wrenches for aftermarket stuff, but I’m tired of buying unnecessary sizes.
 

LWB

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Oct 6, 2019
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ON, Canada
I have full sets in my main box and started buying select semi deep for the cart. Sets don't really take up that much room as long as you don't go crazy. I only have one row of 1/2" deep in impact. It saves a lot of space.
 

steve855

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Joined
Dec 30, 2019
Messages
61
Location
PA
Yes, I think you are dead right.

I’ve got a 2005, and that’s pretty much ISO - 16’s and 18’s, but the crucial words are “pretty much” - there are always the odd one or two that escaped the change. And of course the wheel bolts are 17mm, and the hose clips are 6mm, not 5.5 or 7, and…. and…

Good job on the engine swap. Mine is all original - 122k, but due to age I’ve had to swap just about every gasket, most of the brake and suspension components, and all manner of plastic parts.
Thanks! Mine is about the same. Mostly 16 & 18 but the occasional 15 (I forget where) and 17 (wheel bolts, alternator B+ cable nut, and other random places). The engine swap wasn't overly difficult, just a lot of steps. I tagged every electrical connector and vac hose during disassembly which helped a lot. I don't have a lift or even a cherry picker. I removed the front bumper & rad support, and rolled the whole subframe, engine, and gearbox out on a motorcycle/atv lift and furniture dolly. Car was on jack stands, it wasn't bad to do. I bought a set of Tekton 3/8 dr. E-torx sockets for this project, required for bellhousing & starter bolts, and a couple other places.

Car is an E46 wagon, AWD. Here in the US they were only sold as 325 models, no 3 liter option. My original 2.5 engine had low compression in cyl. #4 so I installed a M54b30 3 liter. Reflashed the DME to 3L spec and it runs well now.

TLDR= glad I have no skip sets!!
 
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