I'm building a new stick built garage/shop and am starting to do my wiring rough in phase of construction but am having a hard time picking out a panel. I've dealt with and installed flush mounted sub panels before but in this case I've got 2x4 walls and the panel will be located on an exterior wall and I'm planning for insulation, so I don't really want my panel to be right up against the sheathing and for there to be no insulation there. Also, I don't want to do surface mounted wiring in conduit, I'm planning on 15+ circuits and I want things to look nice, so that's off the table. So my question is, since I've never dealt with a surface mounted load center before... how do you deal with the branch circuit wiring exiting the load center and get it back into the drywall? All of the pictures I can find when searching the web are of panels mounted onto a sheet of plywood and the wires all being secured directly to the plywood and going up into rafters or something. I'm not clear on how that's allowable with NM wire, being unprotected like that. So I'm looking for some advice, thanks!
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Question about surface mounting load center
- Thread starter egertk
- Start date
ard
Well-known member
For a few square feet of insulation you are willing to plan a horrible looking surface mount on the Sheetrock, and have all the wiring exposed???
Fur out a 48" sections of that 2x4 wall to be a 2x6 or even 2x8 wall. If you plant it at a corner, there will be only one 'edge' visible.
You can also run wires into the back of the panel.
Are you in Miami or Alaska?
Fur out a 48" sections of that 2x4 wall to be a 2x6 or even 2x8 wall. If you plant it at a corner, there will be only one 'edge' visible.
You can also run wires into the back of the panel.
Are you in Miami or Alaska?
I'm also worried about siding nails coming through into the back of the panel since those will be pneumatically driven.
I'm in NW Washington. I should add, I've got solar going onto the roof as well and the inverter will be surface mounted on the bay next to the panel (this won't be in a corner) so I've already excepted the fact that I'll have things mounted on the wall in this location. I was either going to get 5/8" cabinet grade plywood and paint it white so it'll sit flush with the drywall or was also wondering if the plywood is even required or if I can just have the load center and the inverter both mounted directly on the drywall provided I have sufficient blocking or studs for them to attach to. I was thinking about routing wires out the back of the panel but it looks like the backside doesn't have very many knockouts. I think I counted eight total one of which would have to be used by my main. Can I run multiple NM cables through a single knockout? I thought the clamps could only hold a single wire, maybe I'm mistaken.
I'm in NW Washington. I should add, I've got solar going onto the roof as well and the inverter will be surface mounted on the bay next to the panel (this won't be in a corner) so I've already excepted the fact that I'll have things mounted on the wall in this location. I was either going to get 5/8" cabinet grade plywood and paint it white so it'll sit flush with the drywall or was also wondering if the plywood is even required or if I can just have the load center and the inverter both mounted directly on the drywall provided I have sufficient blocking or studs for them to attach to. I was thinking about routing wires out the back of the panel but it looks like the backside doesn't have very many knockouts. I think I counted eight total one of which would have to be used by my main. Can I run multiple NM cables through a single knockout? I thought the clamps could only hold a single wire, maybe I'm mistaken.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Subject to damage is very subjective and one of the hotly debated codes in the electrical field
Subject to damage means different things to different people.
If the NM-b is up high above the panel its highly unlikely to be damaged..
Subject to damage means different things to different people.
If the NM-b is up high above the panel its highly unlikely to be damaged..
ddawg16
Well-known member
As mentioned above, the minor space the load center will displace insulation is not going to be a big issue.
I'd much rather have flush than surface. It just looks a whole lot better and all the wiring is hidden.
If you are worried about nails, your bigger concern is where your romex runs through studs. You should have nail block in those locations so you don't drive a nail into a wire.
I'd much rather have flush than surface. It just looks a whole lot better and all the wiring is hidden.
If you are worried about nails, your bigger concern is where your romex runs through studs. You should have nail block in those locations so you don't drive a nail into a wire.
Could I pull the panel out to stick proud of the drywall 1/2" -1" and just run some trim board around the panel so that the cover sets flush. This way I'd feel comfortable with the siding nails and could even stick a small piece of rigid foam board behind the panel for a minimal amount of insulation. (I'm really most worried about a draft coming in through the panel)
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Doing that may block the knockouts on the sides of the panel...
Warrenator
Well-known member
Funny.... I am just planning out this exact same scenario, except pole barn instead of garage. And I agree with you, I want insulation behind the load center so that won't be the one cold damp spot in the whole place. What I came up with is to surface mount the load center, and I will be putting in 1 foot wide pieces of drywall that taper back to the wall so I have a place to run the wires, protected, and if I need access for more wiring just unscrew the drywall. Doesn't have to be pretty in my case, just accessible as I will certainly be changing and adding wire in the future and it would be nice to have simple access.
Build out a chase that just wider than the panel that matches your interior and runs up to the ceiling.
I would make the front of the chase removable so running future wires will be easier. I did this in my parents house, works good.
JMO of course, not a pro.
I would make the front of the chase removable so running future wires will be easier. I did this in my parents house, works good.
JMO of course, not a pro.
wes73
Well-known member
Build out a chase that just wider than the panel that matches your interior and runs up to the ceiling.
I would make the front of the chase removable so running future wires will be easier. I did this in my parents house, works good.
JMO of course, not a pro.
Exactly what I did in my one closet. I made it wide enough to use the side knockouts to keep the wire spread out and easy to access.
fitz11
Well-known member
I spaced mine out 3/4" and put a piece of foam board behind the panel. I made a trim ring out of 3/4" plywood and once painted you can hardly notice.