theoldwizard1
Well-known member
What do you think of the Wago 221 Lever Nuts ? I am sure they are more expensive than just a regular wire nut, but the sure look idiot proof for the non-professional.
Question for the Professional Sparkies
- Thread starter theoldwizard1
- Start date
Not a professional, but my wife calls me a professional hobbyist ;-)
I love the Wago for project related work -- home automation, troubleshooting, repairing devices that may require removal/reinstall. They really are easy to use and idiot proof (but definitely get the 221's - I have the older model and they are a PITA to open and close).
I don't usually use them for traditional in wall box work; I do use real 3M Performance Plus connectors for that. Just found that for normal box wiring it's not worth the premium price and traditional wire nuts work fine.
I love the Wago for project related work -- home automation, troubleshooting, repairing devices that may require removal/reinstall. They really are easy to use and idiot proof (but definitely get the 221's - I have the older model and they are a PITA to open and close).
I don't usually use them for traditional in wall box work; I do use real 3M Performance Plus connectors for that. Just found that for normal box wiring it's not worth the premium price and traditional wire nuts work fine.
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
Im old school and use wire nuts still.
Union job im on now is using all wire nuts...
Ive had to deal with them on light fixtures that come with wagos from the factory.
I liken them to push-wire "back-stab" terminals on cheap "builder grade" outlets and switches.
Theres a couple of you-tube videos of people testing wagos by running excessive current through them and the connection still held long after the insulation on the wire melted...
Union job im on now is using all wire nuts...
Ive had to deal with them on light fixtures that come with wagos from the factory.
I liken them to push-wire "back-stab" terminals on cheap "builder grade" outlets and switches.
Theres a couple of you-tube videos of people testing wagos by running excessive current through them and the connection still held long after the insulation on the wire melted...
matt_i
Well-known member
If they are UL listed its hard to believe they won't stand up to the ampacity.
I like that you can visualize whether the connection has been made by virtue of the clear housing.
I also like that you can stab the connector with a voltmeter for test purposes without opening the connection or compromising any insulation.
I did use them with trepidation because of the old back-stab wiring devices, but my solution was to tape the conductors about 2" back from the 221 just as an additional strain relief. They look great and all but when pushed (jammed?) back into a box there can be additional forces on the conductors which weren't there when the thing was neatly made up with all the conductors in a nice arrangement.
I like that you can visualize whether the connection has been made by virtue of the clear housing.
I also like that you can stab the connector with a voltmeter for test purposes without opening the connection or compromising any insulation.
I did use them with trepidation because of the old back-stab wiring devices, but my solution was to tape the conductors about 2" back from the 221 just as an additional strain relief. They look great and all but when pushed (jammed?) back into a box there can be additional forces on the conductors which weren't there when the thing was neatly made up with all the conductors in a nice arrangement.
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
The lever ones are IMO much better than the standard ones.
They clamp tighter and are removable
Wagos and similar connector don't use the end of the sharp spring as a contact surface like pushwire devices, rather the side of the spring which allows for a larger surface area,
They clamp tighter and are removable
Wagos and similar connector don't use the end of the sharp spring as a contact surface like pushwire devices, rather the side of the spring which allows for a larger surface area,
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Agree, the levernuts seem decent. I won't use the push in ones, I've replaced a few that melted under a continuous load.
I KNOW that I have a good connection with a wire nut. I also pretwist on anything larger than #14.
They can definitely save some labor, but I don't do that much bid work and I know I won't have to go back to fix any connections.
sberry
Banned
I am consistent and careful with plenty of strip length and alignment and like wingnut types. I have strong hand and can really the them tight. I do not pre twist but have them laying next to each other, the nut nearly welds them.
mobiledynamics
Well-known member
I have had 8-10 of my ~main circuit~ in the house on the 221's for the last 12-18 months (aka, when I spliced the important ones into my transfer switch). All is good and it makes for a very neat and tidy splice box. Would have been a bonus if it supported up to 10 wire
dutchgray
Well-known member
I know the electrician I use uses them to work live, all 240V here.
rlitman
Well-known member
I'm installing a bunch of can-less recessed LED lights in my house. The wiring box comes with the push in connectors, and I'm happy to use them in that low load application, but I'm with you in that I'm not comfortable with them keeping up with the circuit ampacity. The lever ones however seem to be quite a bit nicer. I'm just too cheap to use them.
I've learned to tone it down when tightening wire nuts. I know I've overdone it when the plastic at the tip starts to turn whiteish from stress, or worse, a wire bursts out the end. What can I say. I like my wire nuts gorilla tight, when I should be using German torque.manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The Wago connectors have been tested in conditions far beyond what the typical homeowner might encounter. We have been using them for years on three phase motor connections that run 24/7/365 in industrial environments and have had no failures. Have used them for many other varying loads.
They are equally as qualified as "wire nuts" to make a connection for which they are rated. Anyone who is not using them is missing a huge opportunity to increase your efficiencies.
I think they recently released a version for 10 ga wire and loads.
They are equally as qualified as "wire nuts" to make a connection for which they are rated. Anyone who is not using them is missing a huge opportunity to increase your efficiencies.
I think they recently released a version for 10 ga wire and loads.
Zaxxn
Well-known member
Been using them for many years for pretty much everything. Built two houses back in Germany and wired exclusively with them, and used them over here on everything I ever did as well. Never had a single issue.
mobiledynamics
Well-known member
MWT . Just circling back to this thread. Got me some 10AWG listed ones in as well.
It doesn't replace the original one but I would say supplements. In my mind, I knew it would be larger just due to the larger gauge support. It is ~~~larger~~~. So the 221 originals I would say would 4XX series would be for most work and the 6XX series would be only if one needed 10AWG support and or had did not care about minimizing box volume. Regardless ,these have become my go to NUTZ....
It doesn't replace the original one but I would say supplements. In my mind, I knew it would be larger just due to the larger gauge support. It is ~~~larger~~~. So the 221 originals I would say would 4XX series would be for most work and the 6XX series would be only if one needed 10AWG support and or had did not care about minimizing box volume. Regardless ,these have become my go to NUTZ....
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Not an electrician but an engineer...I'm seeing them more and more on construction projects. They're quicker to install (and time is money on commercial work) and as far as I can tell they work just as well or better than wire nuts.
ishiboo
Well-known member
I think as we see more and more DIY electricians and new electricians come into the field, the WAGOs will have actually a lower overall failure rate due to installation mistakes with wire nuts, as simple as they are.
I've been using them for a few years on everything as well, haven't had a single problem whether it be in damp barn environments, attics, normal junction boxes, etc.
I've been using them for a few years on everything as well, haven't had a single problem whether it be in damp barn environments, attics, normal junction boxes, etc.
sberry
Banned
I used some push in on some fixtures the other day. They seem really tight and like that you can see thru them. I agree with ishi about wire nut mistakes and a lot of guys are not really strong enough to get them tight. Wing nuts help a lot especially with heavier wire or multiples.
ishiboo
Well-known member
If I use wire nuts, I use the tan twisters with the 5/16" hex with my nut driver. Maybe it's just years of typing but the regular nuts kill my fingers quickly!
Angelfire
Well-known member
Not an electrician but I used the Wago 2 Series (the ones with the levers) to wire up my shop. Made for very quick connections and so far, not a single issue. They aren't cheap though.....yet.
Cheers.
Cheers.
mobiledynamics
Well-known member
I know there's probably a million wire nut debates. If it's stranded on solid, then I'm just hand tightein. But everything else is pre twisted, then snipped nest and then a wire nut.
I can think of a couple 4" deep boxes (where I've had multiple wires in them) and the wago's would have made a ~neater box~. It's good stuff. I was a skeptic but on my test bed when I did the gen. panel splices, I have had constant load on alot of my ~wagoed~ connections for almost 2 years now
I can think of a couple 4" deep boxes (where I've had multiple wires in them) and the wago's would have made a ~neater box~. It's good stuff. I was a skeptic but on my test bed when I did the gen. panel splices, I have had constant load on alot of my ~wagoed~ connections for almost 2 years now