Question on extending plumbing through drywall for faucets

[Jay_OH]

I'm in the process of finishing my garage and need some help with a plumbing question. Currently I have a hot and cold faucet which use boiler style valves attached to a concrete block fire wall. I'm framing with a 2x4 wall in front of the block which will be drywalled. What is the best way to extend this securely and make it look decent with finished drywall?
Anyone have a picture of what they did?

Thanks,
Jason

 

[jeffmattero76]

I'm in the process of finishing my garage and need some help with a plumbing question. Currently I have a hot and cold faucet which use boiler style valves attached to a concrete block fire wall. I'm framing with a 2x4 wall in front of the block which will be drywalled. What is the best way to extend this securely and make it look decent with finished drywall?
Anyone have a picture of what they did?

Thanks,
Jason

Are you talking about a faucet, or two separate boiler drain valves? Is there a sink below? If so, is it a laundry tub, or a regular type of sink?

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[Jay_OH]

Right now it is two separate boiler drain valves. See pic.
I would prefer an actual faucet. I did just find something from Woodford that looks like it may work for me. Their model 122 is designed to fasten to a horizontal block and then there is a drywall finish plate available.
http://www.woodfordmfg.com/woodford/Wall_Faucet_Pages/Model-122.html

Jason

 

[Radix2]

There are many "wall mounted" faucets. The thing you need to do is select one and then modify what you have to the appropriate fittings. They are not all alike and often need a specific adapter to go from npt pipe. The faucet will clamp to your final wall or sink.

Look at stainless steel commercial kitchen sinks and utility sinks. The are actually reasonable in price.

 

[yeldogt]

I guess you don't get freezing conditions ?

What do you want to attach to it -- Hose ? Faucet? Are you planning a sink?

If this is just a hose -- you can stub out two valves and make a central connection with a hose thread end. Make your own faucet ... the two valves picking the temp

 

[Richard Cranium]

put one of those Plastic washing machine valve boxes in the wall around them.

 

[Jay_OH]

Sorry should of added more detail. This will be for hose only, no sink.
I think I may order one of the Woodford 122 faucets from the link I posted above. They are a little pricey but gives you a good secure way to mount and you can order with a variety of connection options for the plumbing side.

 

[lionsgarage]

Those Woodford valves will work great, I would eliminate the existing valves or put an access door for them.
I have the Woodford mud sil valves (frost free) on the outside of my garage for washing cars....very nice having hot water so close.

 

[jeffmattero76]

Sorry should of added more detail. This will be for hose only, no sink.
I think I may order one of the Woodford 122 faucets from the link I posted above. They are a little pricey but gives you a good secure way to mount and you can order with a variety of connection options for the plumbing side.

The other possibility that comes to mind doing is a washing machine ball valve shutoff. Here is a link to one

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TimeOut...-Automatic-Shut-off-Ball-Valve-2354/203535788


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[nh_yota]

Get one of those Woodford combination valves and then cut/resolder the pipes with some wood blocking between studs to bring the valve out to the correct finished wall depth.

 

[yeldogt]

FYI -- The Woodford is really designed for freeze protection -- although you can order them with standard valves. I have the recessed enclosed box unit at one place -- w/standard valves.

I have had nothing but problems with various freeze proof valves ---- necessary evil.

Still think two threaded right angle valves -- to a central "T" w/ hose bib end is the answer. You will not have to change any of the existing plumbing and the stubs through the new wall can be sized to the wall thickness with ease.

 

[tapered-pin]

this may not be an issue for you, but, I don't see a drain line anywhere..

If you're only concerned with the rough-in - cut those copper lines, put 90* fittings in each and come out of the wall enough to clear the new framing and sheathing you're going to install.

I always use a 2X6 for blocking behind the 90s and put pipe clamps on them so they are beyond secure.