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Question on jig saw

alexwang32

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I've been using an old cheap corded jig saw in the pasr, finally gave it away along with my old blades and got a new Ridgid R8832 Octane Cordless.

I never had great experience with a jig saw when cutting straight, perhaps my old saw produced too much vibration. Although I make most straight cuts using a circular saw, it's always nice to have another tool that can do it when I need it.

Cutting 1x was fine with the saw, but I struggle to cut straight with 2x4 softwood, it always likes to curve to the right, even when against a straight edge and moving the saw slowly at a relatively high variable speed.

I bought some new high quality jig saw blades but haven't tested them yet since they're expensive. The one I'm using comes with the saw and appears to be quite sharp at 6TPI, not sure if it's HCS or not.

The guide bearing (roller) on this saw can actually move left and right a small amount, which results in shifting the blade out of true slightly. Is this supposed to happen? I already gave away my old jig saw so I can't compare.

Isn't the guide roller only supposed to move forwards and backwards for oscillating motion? Why would they allow it to move left and right? And how am I suppose to true the base this way?

Appreciate any explanations to this.
 
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lardy1

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I'm no expert but I don't know how much accuracy one should expect from a cordless sabre saw cutting two by material.
 

tarbellb

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Blade deflection in 1.5" material w/ standard jig saw blades expected.

Appropriate speed, blade type, settings, and a quality saw will all help.
 
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alexwang32

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Right, but I have see many videos on youtube where the person actually manages to make a fairly straight and square cut on 2x material, whereas mine is way off.

My concern is mainly over the guide bearing's ability to shift left and right. If this is in fact a defect it would obviously affect the straightness of the cut to some degree for whatever thickness you're cutting.

If not then maybe I need to try better blades that are more stiff and thicker.
 

tarbellb

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Likely built-in tolerance. I imagine my Bosch has a little bit of slop, but cant confirm.

Maybe you can put circlip(s) to reduce side to side play?
 

acer66

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Like it was said before a jig saw is not really made for a deep straight cut.
The best way to a get a straight cut is not to force the jig saw rather to guide the saw with as little pushing as possible and let the blade stroke do the work.
But again with a flexible blade with no lower guide a run out is expected.

Wonder if the blades which cut on the down stroke cuts more straight.
 

Downwindtracker 2

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When I got a Bosch barrel grip jig saw , it was a game changer. I was shocked how quick and easy a set of stairs was.
 
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alexwang32

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Ok here an update: Upon finding out that the blade Ridgid provided has big burrs ( as in huge burrs that can be seen by the eye), I opened up the 14 Pc. T-Shank Jig Saw Blade Set with Case by DeWALT which costed my $40, to my surprise there are burrs on it as well if you feel for it with your finger nails.

I know how to sharpen blades by hand so I'm very sensitive to small burrs, dunno how much this will affect a cut, aren't they supposed to arrive burr free?? On my circular saw blades there's never any burrs on a new blade. Sign of bad quality?

Ok so I tested with the new blade, same 6TPI, the cut was straighter as in I can follow a line I draw, but it's not perpendicular at the end of the cut.
dscf9895.jpg

dscf9898.jpg


Is this an acceptable amount of blade deflection?? This is only a 2x3...

I have been seeing a lot of positive videos in Bosh Jig Saws, their advertising video is unbelievable:

If that seems a bit surreal, this person below made some pretty nice cuts on a Bosh saw:

I wonder if the Precision Control system or double roller guide by Bosh comes into play at stabilizing the blade better. Also, perhaps a 0.07" like Bosch T144DP would perform better than regular 0.06" ones I have.

Anyways, I just want to determine if it's a problem with the saw or blade (I'm pretty sure my technique is fine, I push slowly not forcing the saw at all), because I do want to invest in a quality tool, if this Ridgid saw's precision is poor then I might consider exchanging it.
 

exmaxima1

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That does not look good. Did you have full orbital action? The saw should almost feed itself if the blade is correct and you have full orbital to clear the sawdust.
 
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alexwang32

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I tried it with both orbital action and completely off, with orbital it fed more aggressively therefore I finish the cut faster, but the result was still far off from being perpendicular, similar to the cut above but with a rougher finish.

Since I'm used to the feed of a circular saw, I'm literally feeding the saw as slow as possible, but it still inevitably cuts bad.
 

MoonRise

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The 'best' jigsaw? The Bosch 1590/1591 saws. The recent top-end Bosch jigsaws are still quite good, but somehow not quite as good as those older models.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=416481

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/b1590rvu.html

The feature that helps keep the blade in place (plane?) even when the operator puts some inadvertent sideways pressure on the tool/blade is the "Precision Control System". Engage that and two fingers help support the sides of the blade right above the baseplate. It helps.

And the 'best' jigsaw blades? The Swiss made Bosch "Precision Ground" blades. IMNSHO.

Probably something like this one for cutting your 2x:

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/t-shank-jig-saw-blades-for-wood-t144dp-29838-p/

Or

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/t-shank-jig-saw-blades-for-wood-t234x-30859-p/

Or maybe

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/t-shank-jig-saw-blades-for-wood-t308bp-43107-p/

Or

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/t-shank-jig-saw-blades-for-wood-t101dp-29432-p/

Or check the options/choices for yourself at

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/t-shank-jig-saw-blades-for-wood-22547-c/

Still, cutting a 2x with a jigsaw is asking a lot of the tool and blade.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/woodworking-tools/how-to-use-a-jigsaw/
 
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alexwang32

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The 'best' jigsaw? The Bosch 1590/1591 saws. The recent top-end Bosch jigsaws are still quite good, but somehow not quite as good as those older models.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=416481

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/b1590rvu.html

The feature that helps keep the blade in place (plane?) even when the operator puts some inadvertent sideways pressure on the tool/blade is the "Precision Control System". Engage that and two fingers help support the sides of the blade right above the baseplate. It helps.

And the 'best' jigsaw blades? The Swiss made Bosch "Precision Ground" blades. IMNSHO.

Probably something like this one for cutting your 2x:

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/t-shank-jig-saw-blades-for-wood-t144dp-29838-p/

Or

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/t-shank-jig-saw-blades-for-wood-t234x-30859-p/

Or maybe

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/t-shank-jig-saw-blades-for-wood-t308bp-43107-p/

Or

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/t-shank-jig-saw-blades-for-wood-t101dp-29432-p/

Or check the options/choices for yourself at

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/t-shank-jig-saw-blades-for-wood-22547-c/

Still, cutting a 2x with a jigsaw is asking a lot of the tool and blade.

https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/woodworking-tools/how-to-use-a-jigsaw/

Thanks, appreciate all the links. In your opinion should I keep the saw or exchange for a Bosh perhaps? Would a DeWALT or Miliwaukee have the same level of precision? I do want to have a cordless jig saw, does the cordless Bosh have the same features as the corded ones?

I think I might head down to HD and examine the floor models to see if the guide bearing on other models also wobble left and right... to me this seems to be a sign of defect, since the purpose of the roller is to keep the blade straight, if itself can move then its purpose is defeated.
 

MoonRise

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My opinion?

Get the current top line Bosch jig saw with the Precision Control stuff. JS572EK top handle or JS572EBK barrel grip.

Unless you can find a 1590/1591. :lol:

And get some Bosch ground-tooth blades.
 

RTM

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I know how to sharpen blades by hand so I'm very sensitive to small burrs, dunno how much this will affect a cut, aren't they supposed to arrive burr free?? On my circular saw blades there's never any burrs on a new blade. Sign of bad quality?

Where are you seeing "burrs"? Cutting edge, trailing edge?

The key piece to keeping a handsaw cutting straight is equal set to the teeth, left to right. If your handsaw consistently pulls right, your set is too much, and a light stoning on the right side should reduce the pull.

The smoothness of the cut is dictated by the evenness of the set the length of the blade

I would assume (yeah, I know) the same effect for any other blade, so maybe check the set on both sides of center, maybe the teeth aren't set equally?
 

tarbellb

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Less teeth for deep cuts

If considering a Bosch, only consider the German/Swiss made models. Which are getting much harder to find these days.

Agreed with above, Swiss made Bosch blades are excellent as well. Those $40 Dewalts are likely as good as any Chinese made pack found at half the price.

OH, you should definitely double check that the "shoe" on your saw is perpendicular to the blade, some are adjustable.
 

RKA

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A good jigsaw can produce a square cross cut on 2x material far better than that (he’ll, even a square curved cut). I don’t know anything about that saw, but being a cordless model, I’m guessing it was intended for less precise work.

That said, try the Bosch Swiss made blades (available in Lowe’s and probably HD as well) on the new saw. They are very good (but not good enough to fix a bad saw).
 

jgromada

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I have the Bosch JS572EBK (barrel grip) and it cuts very straight on 2x4 and sheet goods. For a cordless model i have a Rigid (not the Octane model you mention). That too cuts straight .


I would stay away from orbital mode (most of the new higher models have it) and choice of a good blade is important. I think the Bosch blades are top notch. If you do that you should get good cuts and relatively smooth.
 
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lardy1

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I'm struggling to think of a situation where a sabre saw would be the preferred tool for square cutting two by material. The entire premise leaves me scratching my head.
 

exmaxima1

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I'm struggling to think of a situation where a sabre saw would be the preferred tool for square cutting two by material. The entire premise leaves me scratching my head.

If you watch the video, they use scrolled rafter ends as an example. A person making gazebos might find it very handy.
 

RKA

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Pergolas are the first example that comes to mind. Any kind of inside corner notching (completing cuts on a stair stringer). Notching solid wood tops for built in's (usually to accommodate something in the house). The last example is more critical than the others because it will be seen close up. The others are arguably less critical. But personally, if I can't trust that blade to stay square in a straight line on 2x, it's useless to me for anything beyond framing work.
 

JiminAZ

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Another Bosch guy here. Got the barrel grip years ago (1582 IIRC) and have never felt the need for anything else.

Straightness of cut is pretty much dependent on steady hand and pressure with the Bosch saw.
 
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topcok88

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LOL they change blades after every demo and cut :) Don't see them on amazon for the US market though... Mafell brand stuff...



Mafell’s US distributor is Timberwolf Tools and I’m pretty sure that is the only place you can buy Mafell in the US. I found that out when I wanted to buy a Duo Dowel System.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
 
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alexwang32

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Update on the jig saw, I took it back to HD and the staff was kind enough to let me switch for a new single jig saw from the bare tool package even though I purchased the tool as a kit.

Same problem, a little less wobble but still exists (1mm measured using digital caliper) I also took the opportunity to test all of the floor models they have on display (none of you guys bothered to test this out for me :mad:)

The result is that all other brands have near zero movement in the roller bearing from left to right, Bosh's jig saw bearing guide is tightly clamped by metal on both sides.

So this appears to be a defect in the Ridgid's jig saw. Surprisingly, even Ryobi's jig saw has no movement, they implemented a spring to keep the thing from shifting.
 

dogdog

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I think your expectation of a jigsaw is way too high... it's not really a precision finishing tool by any means.
 

Sine Swept

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I have a monster DeWalt, its heavy and not a surgical tool by any means. When I have used a Bosch barrel grip, it cut like nothing I've used before. When I want square cuts, I trust a chop saw or a table saw. When I want a circle, I skip the jig saw and go straight for the router! I would probably chance the oscillating tool over the jig saw for a straight cut.
 
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alexwang32

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I see, it seems that the jig saw is often combined with a router to achieve perfect results on thick boards.
 

seber

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I use a very old Black and Decker Professional. That was just before they changed it to Dewalt. The only blades I use are Lenox. It has no wander at all with that combination. Unfortunately, the newer Dewalt that I used with a neighbor does not work as well. Then again, I don't recall what blades he had.
 

lardy1

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I've had a corded Bosch for 6 to 8 years. No issues, whatsoever. Working in the cabinet shop sold me on the Bosch. At the time, there really was nothing else in their class at that price.
 

alien

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Many jig saws are adjustable for angle of cut. Make sure your base is square to the blade and locked tight.
 

Bogie1632

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Sure your not pushing it into the wood too aggressively? My saw tends to flex the blade in larger depth cuts if I push. I have to go super slow to get it to cut straight. Thin material, no problem.

Just a thought.

V/R
Bogie
 
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RKA

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I see, it seems that the jig saw is often combined with a router to achieve perfect results on thick boards.

Depends on what you're doing. If the visible surface is the face of the wood, you only need a zero clearance insert to prevent tear out. But sometimes, if the cut is not perpendicular to the face, it creates other issues in the final result like gaps or fitment problems. And sometimes you just need a straight cut, so riding the edge of the base along a straight edge will do that for you. But a good jigsaw can be sufficient in these scenarios.

Now, if the cut edge is going to be exposed, I would either follow the jigsaw with some light sanding with an oscillating sander or a router and template if it really needs to be clean and precise. It really depends on the application. Furniture, absolutely, the jigsaw will only do the rough work to within 1/8" of my line. Pergola...depends on how much time you want to invest making it look nicer. I could see some people only using a jigsaw to cut the profiles (not the one you have).
 

Wamsutta

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Bosch has figured a way to support the blade very well so it doesn't wander.

But you have to get one of their high end models. The base model made in China doesn't have a good blade support.
 

neophyte

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Jigsaws have never really been made for presice and accurate 90 degree cuts, unless you are dealing with thin material. The thicker the material being cut gets, the more likely the blade is to wander from square.
Some jigsaws made within the past decade or so, and some higher end older jogsaws were better at square cuts, but even individual manufacturers were not always consistent with cut quality, and a newer model jigsaw in the lineup could easily be wirse than an older one.
Cheap jigsaws usually **** as far as square cuts go.

The best jigsaws as far as square cuts go tend to be pricey.

The current Mafell jigsaw is probably considered the current best model available.
It costs more than $500 in the USA, plus extra for some accessories you might want.
It can also take special, extra thick blades, that help keep cuts square, but it can also use regular T-Shank blades.

The Festool Tripn is another good jigsaw.
The Festool jigsaws have side blade guides designed to keep the blade square.
The Trion is an older Festool model that Festool was going to discontinue, but which they didn’t, possibly because the newer Carvex model meant to replace it wasn’t as sturdy a design.
Festool also makes slightly thicker blades for cutting thicker material, but the blades aren’t as thick as the Mafell blades. The blades are somewhat more affordable though, and way more readily available.
The saw was really only designed for carpentry work though, so the shoe is plastic, and tends to get torn up is you use the saw on metal.

The Festool Carvex should be able to do square cuts, but a bunch of the jigsaws seemed to have problems, either from the start, or after a certain amount of use.
The Carvex design doesn’t seem as robust as the older Trion saw.
The main advantage to the Carvex is that it has way better ergonomics, and a bunch of more versatile accessories.
It’s also available in a cordless model.
It’s been a while since I’ve checked, so I fon’t know whether the issues have been fixed yet.

Bosch tends to do very good jigsaws, at least as far as their higher end jigsaws go.
These models were either Swiss or maybe German made, and before that USA made, at least for the US market.
The flagship Bosch jigsaws use a guide system to keep the blades square, similar in idea to Festool, but made differently, and easier and kess of a hassle to use.
Someone above mentioned the older Bosch jogsaw that was considered the top of the line model, and one of the top jogsaws at the time.
The current top of the line models appear to be the JS572EK and EBK models. If you considered a Bosch, I wouldn’t recommend purchasing any oc the cheaper models for heavy work.
The Bosch jigsaws seem to get hot in the gearbox, and also leak a little oil, but it foesn’t seem to affect their cutting performance or longevity.

Hilti used to make a Jigsaw model WSJ850.
I never used one, but it had a very good reputation, and some people considered it one of the best jigsaws at the time.
Since then the newer Hilti Jigsaws seem to have less features, and cost less, so I don’t know they would be as well made.

One major issue for jigsaws and precision 90 degree cuts may actually be the roller behind the blade that is designed to support the blade.
If you try to push the saw too much into the cut, the roller can cause the blades to twist off to one side or the other, leading to innacurate cuts.
The pinch guides on the Trion sort of make this less of an issue.
The design of the guide on the flagship Bosch model seems to avoid this as well.
The Mafell jigsaw has no side guides or back rollers, and seems to rely on a very well made plunge mechanism and orbital design, so this isn’t an issue.

The other issue that comes up for cutting straight with jigsaws is the current trend towards quick tooless nlade change mechanisms.
Some of the blade lcks twist or rotate the blades into the locked position, and a bunch of companies seem to have completely screwed up on the engineering on the blade lock mechanisms.
The Festool Trions nlade lock works excellently, and keep the blade aligned properly.
The Carvex design may have had an issue with this, that vould skew the nlade slightly.
Some older German/Czech made Molwaukee designs used a quick change mechanism that really needed to be lubricated with grease or oil, and still needed to be checked for alignment, because it could lock the blade at an angle.
Older jigsaws that used a screw and clamp usually didn’t have these issues, you just needed to purchase some extra hex wrenches in case you dropped the one that came with the saw.

As far as blades go, Bosch blades are probably considered Top of the line.
Bosch not only makes the nlades they sell under their own name, they also likely manufacture most if not all of the other “Swiss Made” jigsaw blades you might see, including ones branded for Skil, Milwaukee, Makita, Vermont America, etc.
Otherwise ther are a couple German Jigsaw blade manufacturers, Wilpu and MPS Sagen.
One ir both likely make the jigsaw blades sold under the Festool brand name, as well as others. The Spyder jigsaw blades that lowes had were likely made by one of these German companies, maybe MPS.
Lennox still makes Jigsaw blades, and at least for metal, the jigsaw nlades have a good reputation. I believe the Lennox blades were made in the USA.
I’m not sure about Dewalt blades.
I’ve used Dewalt blades in the past without issue, but the nlades dometimes seem to be made in the USA, and may be rebrands of Zlennox, since Lennox is now oart of Stanley Black and Decker which owns Dewalt.
Other tomes the Dewalt blades I’ve seen are made in Germany. I don’t know if Black and Decker owns their own tooling manufacturer in Getmany, or whether the blades come from one of the above German companies.
There was a French manufacturer called Ultra that made quality jigsaw and hacksaw blades.
You used to be able to find the blades on Ebay, but I yhink the company went out of business, and the brand may have been sold to someone in India, so I’m not sure the current status.
Eclipse in the UK was a high quality British manufacturer of jigsaw nlades, but I’m not sure whether the nlades and still made in the UK, and what the current quality level would be.
Starrett also makes jigsaw blades, incliding some specialty patterns for woodworkers.
I don’t think the current blades are made in the USA, slthough older ones were.
I think currently they may be made in Brazil, but I’m not sure.
 
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