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Question on my deck possible rot

knightryda01

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Oct 3, 2013
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So I decided to redo my deck boards as they were rotting from not being properly spaced and I never had time to address the issue. Really not trying to replace the whole deck. I replaced the 2 really rotted 2x10 but most of the others have some surface rot or dirt going on. Wondering how I shoukd treat this going forward. Not sure if I shoukd try and sand it off or if I shoukd stain or just leave it. No idea how much longer I'll be living in the house.
 

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mike93lx

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If you already replaced that bad board, the rest look fine to me.

Using joist tape will help them last longer and not add too much cost. Go back with good screws... I like Grk for this
 

cgrutt

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Those joists dont look that bad aside from the one that is obviously rotted. I'd replace that one but you could scab in a new section and sister a section of 2x10 to support it. Stain / preservative / copper naphthenate (sp?) wont hurt. You can also tape the tops before running new decking.
 
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knightryda01

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If you already replaced that bad board, the rest look fine to me.

Using joist tape will help them last longer and not add too much cost. Go back with good screws... I like Grk for this
I bought the tape. Should I stain them or leave them be?
 

Codyboy

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Either replace that one joist or cutout the rotten part and scab a new piece to it.

I don't think spacing issues caused the rot.
Looks like there is no airflow allowed to get under the deck.
 
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Shiftless

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Either replace that one joist or cutout the rotten part and scab a new piece to it.

I don't think spacing issues caused the rot.
Looks like there is no airflow allowed to get under the deck.
That’s what I’m thinking too.
Plus, those joists don’t look to be pressure treated.
I suggest eliminating that skirt board to let air underneath to dry out the lumber and/or avoid trapping moisture coming up from the ground.
Deck boards should be spaced. I like to use a 16 penny nail as a spacer.
 

Codyboy

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That’s what I’m thinking too.
Plus, those joists don’t look to be pressure treated.
I suggest eliminating that skirt board to let air underneath to dry out the lumber and/or avoid trapping moisture coming up from the ground.
Deck boards should be spaced. I like to use a 16 penny nail as a spacer.
Ive found at least around here that our PT lumber is "so wet" that spacing it with a nail will lead to a space you'll get a toe caught in. Lol
I just **** them up as tight as I can and when they dry out there is nice spacing afterwards.
 

mike93lx

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Ive found at least around here that our PT lumber is "so wet" that spacing it with a nail will lead to a space you'll get a toe caught in. Lol
I just **** them up as tight as I can and when they dry out there is nice spacing afterwards.
Next time you do decking, source KDAT from a local yard. It's so much nicer to work with.

Lighter, straighter, less knots, less shrinkage
 

nadogail

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Those joists dont look that bad aside from the one that is obviously rotted. I'd replace that one but you could scab in a new section and sister a section of 2x10 to support it. Stain / preservative / copper naphthenate (sp?) wont hurt. You can also tape the tops before running new decking.
That Green Stuff will give Termites Heavy Metal poisoning.
 

Shiftless

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Ive found at least around here that our PT lumber is "so wet" that spacing it with a nail will lead to a space you'll get a toe caught in. Lol
I just **** them up as tight as I can and when they dry out there is nice spacing afterwards.
Good point
A guy has to take that into consideration when nailing or screwing down the deck boards.
 

Codyboy

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Next time you do decking, source KDAT from a local yard. It's so much nicer to work with.

Lighter, straighter, less knots, less shrinkage
I will keep that in mind. I just looked and normally what is readily available is KD19HT.
It is kiln dried to 19% moisture content and heat treated.
It does seem to not be kiln dried after treatment though from what I'm reading about it.
 
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