Question on OSB for workshop walls

[BobLon]

Hopefully will be able to start framing my metal shed to make a woodshop out of it soon (waiting (forever it seems) for an extension to the shed to be installed).

Anyhow, seems like lots-o-folks use OSB for interior walls. I'm thinking of doing this as it seems cost effective. I've only played with OSB once on a small project.

My question: Doesn't OSB tend to flake away when trying to put screws into it? Like for mounting/hanging things up. Obviously anything heavy would be screwed into the studs, but for other stuff isn't this an issue?

Curious what those of you that use it have experienced and if you really can 'mount stuff anywhere' like you could if the walls were plywood.

Thanks,
BobL.

 

[samss]

The 7/16 OSB on my shop wall has held up ok. Nothing really heavy, just some hand tools, parts bins...etc. I made a couple of ell brackets with 1/2" emt to hang a shop light over the work bench.

 

[MrQuinn]

I insulated with foil backed bubble wrap then used the 7/16 OSB to cover the steel frame with metal sides. The dead air space between the OSB and the outer wall works well to keep the place cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Then we coated it with Kills Primer before painting it. When I put up cabinets I span across with 1x4's or other backers to mount to. Screw into walls with anodized metal wood screws works well. See my build link for pic's..

 

[kd3pc]

just make sure your metal wall studs are rated for the weight of the OSB...

 

[Falcon67]

No issue here. I have all kinds of stuff hanging on the walls. Only shelves carrying a decent load are mounted through to the studs. You would be advised to use coated decking screws - or nails - when hanging OSB because my experience is that it's hard as a rock and will snap off the heads of drywall screws unless you pre-drill and countersink. Ain't nobody got time fer dat. I used decking screws and if I need to add something in a wall, I just pop the panel off. Much nicer than using drywall.

just make sure your metal wall studs are rated for the weight of the OSB...

7/16 OSB weighs about the same as 1/2" drywall - about 50 lbs more or less. An OSB calculator says OSB is lighter at 45 lbs.

 

[BobLon]

I insulated with foil backed bubble wrap then used the 7/16 OSB to cover the steel frame with metal sides. The dead air space between the OSB and the outer wall works well to keep the place cool in the summer and warm in the winter. Then we coated it with Kills Primer before painting it. When I put up cabinets I span across with 1x4's or other backers to mount to. Screw into walls with anodized metal wood screws works well. See my build link for pic's..

Thanks MrQuinn. Nice shop, I like the color scheme. Nice touch with the diamond tape

BobL.

 

[BobLon]

just make sure your metal wall studs are rated for the weight of the OSB...

Yeah, I'm not sure about the capability of these types of structures for stuff like that, my first experience with sheds of this type. I agonized over using spray foam and in the end my plan is to just stud it out and insulate well. I am in Florida so a well insulated space will be key.

Anyhow, good input but shouldn't be an issue for my build.

Thanks.
BobL.

 

[BobLon]

No issue here. I have all kinds of stuff hanging on the walls. Only shelves carrying a decent load are mounted through to the studs. You would be advised to use coated decking screws - or nails - when hanging OSB because my experience is that it's hard as a rock and will snap off the heads of drywall screws unless you pre-drill and countersink. Ain't nobody got time fer dat. I used decking screws and if I need to add something in a wall, I just pop the panel off. Much nicer than using drywall.



7/16 OSB weighs about the same as 1/2" drywall - about 50 lbs more or less. An OSB calculator says OSB is lighter at 45 lbs.

Thanks for the input Falcon. Good info as I surely would have learned the hard way about using drywall screws.

I'm getting the idea that the OSB flaking up as the screws go in is not really an issue.

The one time I used OSB was maybe 7 or 8 years ago and I can't remember what kind it was (assuming there are different kinds).

Can I assume you guys are using exterior rated OSB, or is there a difference.

Thanks for the input.
BobL.

 

[MrQuinn]

Thanks BobL, the Deck screws suggested is a great idea too. I remember something about there being shellac in the OSB so you prime before painting...

 

[morrillm06]

I second deck screws, and an impact driver not a drill, just finishing up the inside of my 32x40 this week and it is all osb with deck screws. The key is the deck screws are torx not Phillips

 

[BobLon]

I second deck screws, and an impact driver not a drill, just finishing up the inside of my 32x40 this week and it is all osb with deck screws. The key is the deck screws are torx not Phillips

Noted. Love my impact driver.
Thanks,
BobL.

 

[Falcon67]

I used whatever was piled up at the home center, common 7/16" OSB. The smooth side has a bit of coating on it as it's typically used here on roofs. However, the same panels that were used as walk surfaces during construction - and got wet with even standing water - are still in the attic. They are a bit "fuzzy" but it doesn't come apart because it got water on it. There is a storage building behind us that is made from unpainted regular OSB and it's been standing in that yard for 6 years.

Oh, and for the fire hawks worried about flammability I used a sheet of OSB to cover the grass when setting off fireworks. Haven't managed to burn any up yet.

 

[Fueler]

I always wondered about those that insist only dry wall in their work shop?
Ever see any drywall left after a total fire?

 

[The_Auto_Tech]

I've got OSB walls as well, 1/2" in fact. I absolutely hate hanging and finishing drywall, and I wanted something more rugged in a shop space. Also, the OSB is freaking awesome for being able to hang stuff anywhere on it. I bought some ladder brackets with the anchors and screwed it directly to the OSB with no stud. Has no problem holding a 17' multi-use ladder. About the only downside is if you don't paint it it's not as bright as a white or reflective surface. The nice thing is that as you move stuff around on the walls you don't notice a bunch of holes like you do with drywall. Also, I agree with the above statement about OSB being pretty flame retardant. It takes a lot to get it to burn.

 

[BobLon]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate all the input.
Really liking the idea of using OSB now.
Can't wait to get started on my build out.

BobL.

 

[cvairwerks]

I always wondered about those that insist only dry wall in their work shop?
Ever see any drywall left after a total fire?

Ever see OSB in a fire? Burns hot and fast once it ignites. When I was in a VFD, if we spotted OSB on a structure, then we didn't enter or get on the roof.

 

[nonhog]

I'm not saying the fire risk isn't real but its plenty hard (for me) to light OSB on fire. Use your own judgment and make yourself at ease with your choice.
I personally use sheet rock near where I grind and weld. OSB on ceiling and maybe someday walls?

this link is only meant to be thought provoking not making any claims of safe or not safe. You decide.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149209

 

[The_Auto_Tech]

I agree. I get that it's wood so it will burn, but it does not burn very easily at all without some serious outside help.

 

[Firebrick43]

To the OP. What exactly are you calling a metal shed? Makes a world of difference.

Is it a carport style shed, a pole building, a red steel building?

 

[Dragfluid]

I always wondered about those that insist only dry wall in their work shop?
Ever see any drywall left after a total fire?

Yes, unfortunately, I have.

It's a fire retardant, not a preventer. No, you're not going to set a sheet of OSB on fire by holding a match to it.

OP, have you compared the price of OSB to CDX plywood? With all the storms, I thought that OSB had taken quite a price hike?

 

[TTA89]

OP, have you compared the price of OSB to CDX plywood? With all the storms, I thought that OSB had taken quite a price hike?

I've been wondering the same thing? How much is OSB these days? I've been buying 1/2 plywood from Lowes with one side sanded that looks great and costs $22 bucks...less 5% if you use your Lowes CC.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/AraucoPly-...e-Sanded-Plywood-Application-as-4-x-8/3551944

 

[lakeroadster]

My question: Doesn't OSB tend to flake away when trying to put screws into it? Like for mounting/hanging things up. Obviously anything heavy would be screwed into the studs, but for other stuff isn't this an issue?

Curious what those of you that use it have experienced and if you really can 'mount stuff anywhere' like you could if the walls were plywood.

Thanks,
BobL.

Yeah, it flakes. I prefer plywood. I used OSB on my loft floor and it's just not as smooth as plywood.

If you are going to cover the sheathing with something (other than primer / paint)... OSB is great. Otherwise... I'd recommend actual plywood.

FWIW

 

[James-W]

Yeah, it flakes. I prefer plywood. I used OSB on my loft floor and it's just not as smooth as plywood.

If you are going to cover the sheathing with something (other than primer / paint)... OSB is great. Otherwise... I'd recommend actual plywood.

FWIW

I agree, I am not a big fan of OSB on an interior wall.

 

[The_Auto_Tech]

I've not had any issues with OSB flaking and one side of it is pretty damn smooth I think. OSB right now is about 16 bucks a sheet. Sanded plywood is around 24-25.

 

[The_Auto_Tech]

Also, most of the plywood I run into is warped.

 

[BobLon]

To the OP. What exactly are you calling a metal shed? Makes a world of difference.

Is it a carport style shed, a pole building, a red steel building?

It a carport style shed.

BobL.

Sorry it took so long to answer this but I thought since I started the thread I would be automatically subscribed to it, but wasn't, so I missed it. My bad.

 

[BobLon]

Yeah, it flakes. I prefer plywood. I used OSB on my loft floor and it's just not as smooth as plywood.

If you are going to cover the sheathing with something (other than primer / paint)... OSB is great. Otherwise... I'd recommend actual plywood.

FWIW

Ok, so maybe using OSB is not a given. I would prefer ply actually but was hoping to save a few bucks. The shed is 30x35 and I need to do the ceiling too.

I guess I'll shop around when I'm at that point and decide then.
Thanks for all the input guys.

BobL.

 

[ticklechicken]

I'm almost done building a similar size metal building here in Florida. I was planning on using cheap 1/2" plywood or OSB, but I found something better at Home Depot. They had really nice 3/4" BC plywood that looked great and was very flat. It was only $30/sheet. I bought just over 60 sheets of it which gave me a discount on top of that. I think it ended up around $26/sheet.

The first post of this thread shows the installed plywood.

For attachment to the metal studs, I used these screws to first install some 1x3 furring strips. The wings are pretty cool. They drill a clearance hole in the wood and then break off when they hit the metal. They work great. You can get a similar style from Home Depot, but it has a different head. To attach the plywood to the strips, I used those grey outdoor screws that look like drywall screws. They're a little bit more money, but I wanted grey screws. I hate the look of the black heads everywhere.

 

[BobLon]

I'm almost done building a similar size metal building here in Florida. I was planning on using cheap 1/2" plywood or OSB, but I found something better at Home Depot. They had really nice 3/4" BC plywood that looked great and was very flat. It was only $30/sheet. I bought just over 60 sheets of it which gave me a discount on top of that. I think it ended up around $26/sheet.

The first post of this thread shows the installed plywood.

For attachment to the metal studs, I used these screws to first install some 1x3 furring strips. The wings are pretty cool. They drill a clearance hole in the wood and then break off when they hit the metal. They work great. You can get a similar style from Home Depot, but it has a different head. To attach the plywood to the strips, I used those grey outdoor screws that look like drywall screws. They're a little bit more money, but I wanted grey screws. I hate the look of the black heads everywhere.

Nice build. Mine is a Carolina Carport also, but it was there when we brought the place.

I got scared and decided not to spray foam so I am studding out the inside. This will also allow me to easily hang some cabinets on the walls. I wasn't sure how much stress the structure would handle from additional loads so I decided to go this route.

3/4" ply would be ideal, some French cleats and I'd be good to go.

Thanks,
BobL.

 

[ticklechicken]

I got scared and decided not to spray foam so I am studding out the inside. This will also allow me to easily hang some cabinets on the walls. I wasn't sure how much stress the structure would handle from additional loads so I decided to go this route.

3/4" ply would be ideal, some French cleats and I'd be good to go.

Scared of what? I'm curious.

The structure can handle 180mph winds. I just Googled an equation for loading due to wind speed. This should be a good rough estimate of building strength --> q=V^2/383.6=100^2/383.6=84.5psf. That's 84.5 pounds of wind pressure per square foot. So a 10'x30' wall can handle 25,339 pounds. This is a bit of apples to oranges, but it's enough to convince me that the building is plenty strong to support plywood walls and anything you can hang from them.

I was surprised that the quality 3/4" was that cheap. Easy decision to spend the extra money and never worry about screws pulling out.

 

[engineer2]

I did the inside of my shed with 5/8" OSB. 1/2" was too flimsy and 3/4 was overkill.
Holds a screw OK, but wouldn't hang more than 20 lbs on a single screw that wasn't in a stud.

 

[ItsNemo]

Off topic slightly but I always wonder why people do metal buildings and then end up framing out the inside with 2x4's and plywood. Wouldn't it be easier just to stick build in the first place?

 

[Lelandwelds]

Off topic slightly but I always wonder why people do metal buildings and then end up framing out the inside with 2x4's and plywood. Wouldn't it be easier just to stick build in the first place?

People tend to use the familiar.

 

[BobLon]

Scared of what? I'm curious.

There seems to be some debate as to spray foam and potential rust issues.
Here amongst other threads. At this point I didn't know what to do (not trying to start the debate back up here.)

You're probably right on the structural integrity of the building but I wasn't sure, especially about concentrated loads (heavy shelves/dust collector/etc) so I probably would have studded it out for that reason anyhow.

I have zero experience with these types of structures.

BobL.

 

[BobLon]

Off topic slightly but I always wonder why people do metal buildings and then end up framing out the inside with 2x4's and plywood. Wouldn't it be easier just to stick build in the first place?

I really can't speak for most people but I assume cost is a driving factor. I would love to have a true garage but had my building not already existed I probably would have had to go this route anyhow. I would have configured it differently however.

BobL.

 

[ticklechicken]

There seems to be some debate as to spray foam and potential rust issues.
Here amongst other threads. At this point I didn't know what to do (not trying to start the debate back up here.)

You're probably right on the structural integrity of the building but I wasn't sure, especially about concentrated loads (heavy shelves/dust collector/etc) so I probably would have studded it out for that reason anyhow.

I have zero experience with these types of structures.

BobL.

The rust debate is a tough one. There's lots of info on the net about this, but very little of it appears trustworthy. My local foam guy convinced me. He's been doing this for a while with good results.

My plywood is mounted horizontal and attached through horizontal furring strips. That will nicely distribute any heavy loads to multiple furring strips and steel posts. I don't think concentrated loads are an issue this way. I'll soon be hanging my 3.5hp cyclone on the wall. Sounds like you know, but those are heavy. If that works, then there's certainly no issue with this method.

Even if you do frame this out and add OSB, any weight on the shelves will eventually have to go into the steel structure. In the end, it's the metal building that's stopping the shelves from falling down.

 

[BobLon]

I'll soon be hanging my 3.5hp cyclone on the wall. Sounds like you know, but those are heavy. If that works, then there's certainly no issue with this method.

Just a little jealous of that rig. My cyclone is not that big.
Sounds great.
BobL.

 

[ckyle29]

Off topic slightly but I always wonder why people do metal buildings and then end up framing out the inside with 2x4's and plywood. Wouldn't it be easier just to stick build in the first place?

For me it was a question of cost and the fact that I was doing all the work myself. By putting up the pole building and then framing later, I was able to spread the cost out and pay as I went. Plus, none of my friends are handy with a hammer, so it was all on me. I book-shelved my studs between the poles, flush with the inside, using treated lumber for the first course, then 14.5 inch risers, then the next course and built each section from the ground up, one at a time, until I reached the top. Then on to the next section. This allowed me to also use standard 15 inch wide insulation between the studs. I don't have to worry about ground heave here, so I could attach the risers directly to the poles. Yes, stick built might have been easier, but I wouldn't have been able to do it myself and I would have had to pay for it all at once, so the way I did it worked best for my situation.

 

[PeterT]

When I priced out plywood vs OSB, OSB was less than half. I needed close to 80 sheets so price drove me to OSB. I primed and pained and its fairly smooth, certainly no flaking or peeling of the OSB layers.

 

[cvairwerks]

Off topic slightly but I always wonder why people do metal buildings and then end up framing out the inside with 2x4's and plywood. Wouldn't it be easier just to stick build in the first place?

Side wall height and roof span become the major driving factors on cost when you look at stick vs metal framing. Once you cross about 14 foot on the sidewalls and/or 24 foot clearspan, metal gets real attractive.

A number of years ago, the museum I worked with, was given an old post WW1 built hangar. It was about 100'x100', with 20' sidewalls. One of the guys did some estimates in building a duplicate to match, and found that a steel unit, including slab, insulation, interior finishing and electric would be less than just the materials for a wood copy. There were 10's of thousands of feet of real 2x12's and larger just in the trusses alone.