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Question on wiring inside detached garage - Will this approach pass NEC?

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luvtheheat

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I have 4AWG MTW/THHN/THWN-2 stranded copper wire that I want to use inside a detached garage.

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Idea is to run it from a 60 amp 2 pole breaker in the panel which is in the detached garage, up through wooden framed top plate (13' high), along the bottom of one of the wooden roof trusses, across to the wall opposite the panel, then down through top plate and terminate in a 3 gang junction box.

I'd run two hots, a neutral, and one 6 ga bare copper. I'd secure the 4 wires every 4? feet with one of this style multi-cable staples.

Can I run two hots and one neutral and one ground through a single hole in the top plate, say 1.25"?

Would this pass NEC 2017?

Thanks

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exranger06

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No, that would be against code. THHN wire must be run in conduit only. You cannot staple it to framing members or run it outside of conduit for any length at all. You'd need to run conduit from the panel, across the garage, to the junction box, and pull the wires through the conduit in order to use it.
 
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BreeStephany

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THHN must be run in an approved raceway / conduit and protected from damage, so running it "free-air" would not be code compliant. You may use NMB or SER cable, provided that you plan on putting up sheetrock, wood sheeting or another means to protect the cable from damage, but you may NOT run exposed THHN conductors without running them in conduit from the panel to the point of termination.
 
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sparky 1971

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luvtheheat said:
1) Got it. Thanks.
2) Potential future EV charger. Potential 30 amp for welding. Potential ?? for future.
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A two gang box is all that's needed.
luvtheheat said:
Understood. I have 600 feet of #4 on hand from a project that never happened 10 years ago. May as well use it rather than buy more copper.
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scrap the #4 and use the money to buy 6/3 with ground NM-B (romex) for a 14-50R for a 50 amp charget. As far as the 30 amp for a welder, get 10/2 romex ( A lot of welders can get by with #12). If the lengths are short enough, you might still have money left over.
 
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yatg

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sparky 1971 said:
A two gang box is all that's needed.
Click to expand...

luvtheheat said:
Idea is to run it from a 60 amp 2 pole breaker in the panel which is in the detached garage, up through wooden framed top plate (13' high), along the bottom of one of the wooden roof trusses, across to the wall opposite the panel, then down through top plate and terminate in a 3 gang junction box.
Click to expand...

luvtheheat said:
2) Potential future EV charger. Potential 30 amp for welding. Potential ?? for future.
Click to expand...

Seeing this as OP wants to run a 60A circuit with his #4 and connect multiple receptacles in a 3 gang box to that #4.

OP, you need a separate circuit for each of those. And the appropriate sized cable. And a separate 2 gang box for each will make wiring much easier. And you'll be able to locate each receptacle where you need it.
 
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sparky 1971

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yatg said:
Seeing this as OP wants to run a 60A circuit with his #4 and connect multiple receptacles in a 3 gang box to that #4.

OP, you need a separate circuit for each of those. And the appropriate sized cable. And a separate 2 gang box for each will make wiring much easier. And you'll be able to locate each receptacle where you need it.
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You may be right. I never even considered it a possibility that anyone would think about trying to stuff three 30+ amp receptacles into a box and/or put them on the same circuit. I was putting "or" between every thing on the list of possibilities. charger or welder or ???
luvtheheat said:
Why do I need separate circuits from breaker box? Not arguing; I want to learn from those who've done this more than I.
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Because that's the way it is. I'm not going to go look up a code reference just to prove it, but it's true.
 
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luvtheheat

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I really appreciate all the responses. Again, I'm here to learn, not to question/challenge those who have much more experience.

Thanks
 
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dave*99

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luvtheheat said:
I really appreciate all the responses. Again, I'm here to learn, not to question/challenge those who have much more experience.

Thanks
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Seems you have some heavy wire you'd like to use for some down the road powering of some larger loads. If that is as far as you can commit at this juncture then:
Run conduit and install a subpanel at the end of the run. With the correct size conduit and breaker in the main panel, you will be able to power many many different types of loads in a code compliant fashion.

Sub panels are cheap. A main lug panel is sufficient.
 
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OP
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luvtheheat

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dave*99 said:
Seems you have some heavy wire you'd like to use for some down the road powering of some larger loads. If that is as far as you can commit at this juncture then:

Run conduit and install a subpanel at the end of the run. With the correct size conduit and breaker in the main panel, you will be able to power many many different types of loads in a code complaint fashion.

Sub panels are cheap. A main lug panel is sufficient.
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My dream garage is being framed as I type this. I want to future-proof the electrical as much as possible before drywall goes up.

Based on earlier feedback, (THANKS), I'm leaning towards a small subpanel (#2) on the wall opposite my other subpanel (that feeds rest of new garage) and putting 3 ea 2 gang boxes pre-wired each on their own circuit from subpanel #2.
 
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u2slow

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luvtheheat said:
I want to future-proof the electrical as much as possible before drywall goes up.
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You can spend loads of time and money on this goal; and still miss something. Or a costly change later for something that didn't suit your needs. Not to mention all the compromises in insulation and air seal.

Utility spaces are better served with surface conduit imho.
 
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wyliesdiesels

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luvtheheat said:
My dream garage is being framed as I type this. I want to future-proof the electrical as much as possible before drywall goes up.

Based on earlier feedback, (THANKS), I'm leaning towards a small subpanel (#2) on the wall opposite my other subpanel (that feeds rest of new garage) and putting 3 ea 2 gang boxes pre-wired each on their own circuit from subpanel #2.
Click to expand...
the best way to future proof something is actually by running conduit in the walls to possible future needed locations and leaving it empty until needed....
 
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u2slow

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Tray normally requires approved cable types. Better rated cable again for hazardous locations.

Cable types normally used inside walls may be considered mechanically protected by elevation alone. That height in my jurisdiction is 5'. A garage/shop may present a grey area.
 
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