Question regarding Quincy compressors

[DerStig]

I have been reading about the differences between QT-54 and QT-5 and also QP-5. In several threads here, people talk about “QR” series being the real quincy compressors and everything else isnt the same. The thing is I cant find these QR series anywhere. When I go to aircompressorsdirect, the highest model I can find are the QP series models which have pressure lubricated motors and some can be ordered with the air cooler. Is the QP renamed QR or something else?

Also I am going back and forth between QP 5 HP and QT 5 HP. They are $2299 and $2899. Are they the identical motor other than pressure lubrication or is there more to it? From the specs, QP has a very low 680 rpm vs almost 1000 rpm for QT-5 (and 1750 rpm for QT-54). It looks like QT is 6 db louder than QP.

The compressor will be in my attach garage. Upstairs is the bedrooms. I dont have a dedicated shop so noise is important.

 

[seber]

The QR is 25 hp only.

 

[DerStig]

The QR is 25 hp only.

Thank you.

What are the notable differences between QT-54 vs QT-5 vs QP-5?

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

The QR is 25 hp only.

That is incorrect. The '25' in QR-25 is just part of the series number. QR-25 series pumps range from 1hp to 25hp.
The QR-25 series is Quincy's top of the line reciprocating pumps. The smaller X2,X3,X8 and 210LS are splash lubricated, all other models all pressure lubricated, with a spin on filter option.

The QR-25 series is few and far between to locate online. Your best bet is to search for a brick & mortar Quincy dealer.

Click on this link https://www.quincycompressor.com/ click on 'Products', then you can scroll and click on the different series to compare.

 

[DerStig]

That is incorrect. The '25' in QR-25 is just part of the series number. QR-25 series pumps range from 1hp to 25hp.
The QR-25 series is Quincy's top of the line reciprocating pumps. The smaller X2,X3,X8 and 210LS are splash lubricated, all other models all pressure lubricated, with a spin on filter option.

The QR-25 series is few and far between to locate online. Your best bet is to search for a brick & mortar Quincy dealer.

Click on this link https://www.quincycompressor.com/ click on 'Products', then you can scroll and click on the different series to compare.

I did visit that site but I still dont understand what the differences are between their QP and QT line. For example under the QP section, it talks about cast iron crankcase but then in the QT section, it mentions cast iron as well.

 

[yatg]

I did visit that site but I still dont understand what the differences are between their QP and QT line. For example under the QP section, it talks about cast iron crankcase but then in the QT section, it mentions cast iron as well.

https://www.quincycompressor.com/products/reciprocating-piston/qp/

The Quincy QP series is designed for tougher 175 PSI applications where traditional splash lubrication just won’t measure up. The QP is a heavy-duty, cast-iron compressor that features an oil pump for pressure lubrication to the crankshaft, bearings and connecting rod up to the wrist pins.

 

[metlmunchr]

Based on personal experience, I'd spend the extra $600 for the pressure lubed version. I've gpt a pressure lube quincy made in 1953. Spent its first 20 years in a state highway maintenance shop, and the next 20 in my dad's fabrication shop. Since then, sporadic use in my home hobby shop. In that almost 70 years, and 40 years of daily use, its never had a wrench on it.

To be clear, I'd only make that recommendation since you're considering $2000+ compressors in both cases. For a home shop, if you were considering a $1200 compressor, then I wouldn't tell you that you need to spend upward of $3000 instead. But, the ~25% incremental cost of the QP over the QT would be worthwhile IMO.

 

[DerStig]

Based on personal experience, I'd spend the extra $600 for the pressure lubed version. I've gpt a pressure lube quincy made in 1953. Spent its first 20 years in a state highway maintenance shop, and the next 20 in my dad's fabrication shop. Since then, sporadic use in my home hobby shop. In that almost 70 years, and 40 years of daily use, its never had a wrench on it.

To be clear, I'd only make that recommendation since you're considering $2000+ compressors in both cases. For a home shop, if you were considering a $1200 compressor, then I wouldn't tell you that you need to spend upward of $3000 instead. But, the ~25% incremental cost of the QP over the QT would be worthwhile IMO.

The problem with the $1400 QT-54 is two fold:

- The noise
- Lack of 3/4" NPT outlet

If it werent for these two issues, I wouldnt spend the money on the higher end ones but I think $1400 is a lot of money to spend for a very loud compressor that cant go above 1/2" airlines.

 

[Firebrick43]

The problem with the $1400 QT-54 is two fold:

- The noise
- Lack of 3/4" NPT outlet

If it werent for these two issues, I wouldnt spend the money on the higher end ones but I think $1400 is a lot of money to spend for a very loud compressor that cant go above 1/2" airlines.

Tools that use hoses larger than 1/2” hoses are going to need a 25hp+ compressor to keep up!

Based on personal experience, I'd spend the extra $600 for the pressure lubed version. I've gpt a pressure lube quincy made in 1953. Spent its first 20 years in a state highway maintenance shop, and the next 20 in my dad's fabrication shop. Since then, sporadic use in my home hobby shop. In that almost 70 years, and 40 years of daily use, its never had a wrench on it.

To be clear, I'd only make that recommendation since you're considering $2000+ compressors in both cases. For a home shop, if you were considering a $1200 compressor, then I wouldn't tell you that you need to spend upward of $3000 instead. But, the ~25% incremental cost of the QP over the QT would be worthwhile IMO.

I am not sure the pressure lube has much to do with long life. I think a big pump turning slow is more the reason. I have seen Kellogg and champion compressors from the 60’s still turning. Neighbor has one still going that has a riveted tank. It was pulled out of an old service station in the lates 60’s and was old then. I am curious as to how old it is exactly as riveted tanks in most industries were not used much after WW2. It’s quiet to boot.

The pressure lubed Quincy compressors are well made units, I am not knocking them.

Compressors with 1750 rpm motors and the pumps turning under 600 rpm are going to be quiet. I can talk on my cell next to my compressor (polar air) and the person on the other side can’t hear it.

 

[DerStig]

Tools that use hoses larger than 1/2” hoses are going to need a 25hp+ compressor to keep up!



I am not sure the pressure lube has much to do with long life. I think a big pump turning slow is more the reason. I have seen Kellogg and champion compressors from the 60’s still turning. Neighbor has one still going that has a riveted tank. It was pulled out of an old service station in the lates 60’s and was old then. I am curious as to how old it is exactly as riveted tanks in most industries were not used much after WW2. It’s quiet to boot.

The pressure lubed Quincy compressors are well made units, I am not knocking them.

Compressors with 1750 rpm motors and the pumps turning under 600 rpm are going to be quiet. I can talk on my cell next to my compressor (polar air) and the person on the other side can’t hear it.

Then why is all the 5-7.5hp quincy units have 3/4” outlets?

Also, there is no quincy other than QP that has its pump rpm at 600. Even the $2300 QT-5 is 969 RPM

 

[Firebrick43]

1/2” pipe is rated to 100’ run which would suffice for nearly all home shops. 3/4 is used more in industrial settings due to length of runs but they also typically have larger compressors.
900 ish is still pretty slow, but I was talking more of the old Kellogg and champion compressors. Mine is around polar air 600 as well. A lot of cheap compressors are running 1200 rpm or more.

 

[DerStig]

1/2” pipe is rated to 100’ run which would suffice for nearly all home shops. 3/4 is used more in industrial settings due to length of runs but they also typically have larger compressors.
900 ish is still pretty slow, but I was talking more of the old Kellogg and champion compressors. Mine is around polar air 600 as well. A lot of cheap compressors are running 1200 rpm or more.

The length of the run is also something that is important for me. I have quite a few projects around my house where I will need to have a fairly long, 150+ ft airline to do spray painting, nail gun, die grinder out in the field. I dont know if the QT-54 would work.

 

[Firebrick43]

The length of the run is also something that is important for me. I have quite a few projects around my house where I will need to have a fairly long, 150+ ft airline to do spray painting, nail gun, die grinder out in the field. I dont know if the QT-54 would work.

The are two basic forms of resistance in fluid piping systems.

There is restrictions for example 3/4” pipe reducing to 1/2

And there is friction. Friction is higher in smaller pipes than in larger pipes. Also friction is higher in sharp abrupt turns such as 90 degrees. For ease they assign a foot number to different fittings. For example a 90 degree may have the equivalent friction of 8’ of pipe. This makes it simple to do size calculations. While 1/2” can do 100’ at 15 cfm 3/4 can do 250’ at 15 cfm.

Now for the restrictions of 1/2 at the tank. Just because it’s 1/2 doesn’t mean it has to stay 1/2”.

1/2” will flow 30cfm for 25’. 3/4 will flow 70 cfm for 25’. This means if you immediately size up to 3/4” after the tank you will still maintain 15cfm over 250’ or maybe a slight drop say 225’.

But I have to ask, have you handled a 3/4” air hose? Even a 1/2” id air hose is considered to large to many. Most air hoses are 1/4” and 3/8” id. You will not be able to transfer the cfm of any 5hp compressor(or larger for that matter) unless you upsize the hose. I don’t know about you but I am not caring around 150’ of 3/4 hose.

I personally think using a die grinder or Hvlp sprayer at those distances on a hose is unrealistic. Nail gun would work with 3/8 hose at that distance but a little pancake compressor is easier to deal with.

 

[DerStig]

The are two basic forms of resistance in fluid piping systems.

There is restrictions for example 3/4” pipe reducing to 1/2

And there is friction. Friction is higher in smaller pipes than in larger pipes. Also friction is higher in sharp abrupt turns such as 90 degrees. For ease they assign a foot number to different fittings. For example a 90 degree may have the equivalent friction of 8’ of pipe. This makes it simple to do size calculations. While 1/2” can do 100’ at 15 cfm 3/4 can do 250’ at 15 cfm.

Now for the restrictions of 1/2 at the tank. Just because it’s 1/2 doesn’t mean it has to stay 1/2”.

1/2” will flow 30cfm for 25’. 3/4 will flow 70 cfm for 25’. This means if you immediately size up to 3/4” after the tank you will still maintain 15cfm over 250’ or maybe a slight drop say 225’.

But I have to ask, have you handled a 3/4” air hose? Even a 1/2” id air hose is considered to large to many. Most air hoses are 1/4” and 3/8” id. You will not be able to transfer the cfm of any 5hp compressor(or larger for that matter) unless you upsize the hose. I don’t know about you but I am not caring around 150’ of 3/4 hose.

I personally think using a die grinder or Hvlp sprayer at those distances on a hose is unrealistic. Nail gun would work with 3/8 hose at that distance but a little pancake compressor is easier to deal with.

Thank you for the write up. I did not handle the hose that big. My plan was to have a reel in my garage and pull the hose from the window into my backyard where I need to do things like spray painting 200 ft+ long fence or our deck that is pretty big. I think the furthest I would go with the hose is around 150 ft. I was thinking of having one big reel in the garage and a smaller one that I can carry and I connect the two.

I am also going to use 3/4” copper L pipe for the airline. I dont have a big garage. The line goes for 6 ft, then 90, another 3 ft. There I will have a valve and split into 2-3 different lines (car lift, reel, non oiled line etc). And thats it.

Also the QP model is at 73 db. The QT-54 is 85 db. That is around 2.5 times louder, I think the difference is substantial. 73 db is almost two people talking at close proximity to each other.

 

[Firebrick43]

Thank you for the write up. I did not handle the hose that big. My plan was to have a reel in my garage and pull the hose from the window into my backyard where I need to do things like spray painting 200 ft+ long fence or our deck that is pretty big. I think the furthest I would go with the hose is around 150 ft. I was thinking of having one big reel in the garage and a smaller one that I can carry and I connect the two.

I am also going to use 3/4” copper L pipe for the airline. I dont have a big garage. The line goes for 6 ft, then 90, another 3 ft. There I will have a valve and split into 2-3 different lines (car lift, reel, non oiled line etc). And thats it.

Also the QP model is at 73 db. The QT-54 is 85 db. That is around 2.5 times louder, I think the difference is substantial. 73 db is almost two people talking at close proximity to each other.

73 Db is what my compressor is rated out. Noise is important to me and I am happy with that level. My fathers is a 5hp with a high speed pump about a third the size and probably is around 95 db and drives me nuts. You have to scream over it.

 

[DerStig]

I am looking at the champion compressors and it looks like their compressors cost a bit less and have better cfm/pump figures. Is there something I am missing? Why is quincy more money?

 

[Firebrick43]

Quincy pressure lube compressors are near the apex of reciprocating compressors. Even if I personally don’t believe Quincy pressure lube compressors are quantifiably better, it is arguably equal to the top other brands imho

They have used their pressure lube design to market their “superiority”

They have also partially rested on their laurels. The more less costly non pressure lubed compressors they sell probably don’t deserve the reputation of it’s name sake

 

[u3b3rg33k]

I've always had lawn equipment with an oil pump run circles around splash lube stuff when it comes to checking the hour meter on the original motor.

IIRC most of the QP stuff can be run at about 50% of max speed, I don't think the splash lube can do that. this means you can run a smaller motor/pulley, or use a VFD on it with a pressure transducer.

got a QR-25 at work. it's a monster.

 

[Citation]

I am looking at the champion compressors and it looks like their compressors cost a bit less and have better cfm/pump figures. Is there something I am missing? Why is quincy more money?

I'm a broken record about this, noise levels are heavily influenced by the intake on the compressor. Traditionally mfrs didn't worry about noise from the intake. Eaton's quiet compressors appear to be little more than a fancy noise suppressing air intake attached to their standard compressor. If you look at my post history, I think just yesterday I posted a link to a DIY intake muffler for a large compressor. It certainly didn't cost several hundred dollars. Basically, don't assume you have to spend big bucks to deal with noise.

 

[DerStig]

Quincy pressure lube compressors are near the apex of reciprocating compressors. Even if I personally don’t believe Quincy pressure lube compressors are quantifiably better, it is arguably equal to the top other brands imho

They have used their pressure lube design to market their “superiority”

They have also partially rested on their laurels. The more less costly non pressure lubed compressors they sell probably don’t deserve the reputation of it’s name sake

Sorry, I am not following. Are you saying quincy isnt as good or the other way around?

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

The QR-25 series are truly an industrial duty pump, with all of the 2 stage pumps rated to pump 200 psi continuously and the 310, 325 & 340 rated to pump 500 psi INTERMITTENTLY! They have a cast iron crankcase, cylinders and head. The QR-25 series is leaps & bounds above their QP and QT series...but it all comes at a MUCH higher cost.
https://www.compressorworld.com/325...iston-two-stage-pump-with-flywheel-40207.html

The pump alone is more money than most of the QP and QT series complete units.
I believe what Firebrick43 is saying is that Quincy's reputation was built on their QR-25 series line, which is a totally different animal than the QP & QT series line.

Regarding Champion compressors (disc valve models), they are great units as well. You can also get their pumps pressure lubed as an option. Saylor-Beall is also a great pump which again, offers pressure lubed as an option. Personally, I would say the QR-25 pumps are at the top of the list of these 3 brands, with the Champion and Saylor-Beall tied...with that being said, I would choose either the Champion or Saylor-Beall over the QP or QT series compressors.

 

[Citation]

I wouldn't discount the Champion VR (reed valve) pumps either. Dad used one for years. I think it's still going at least 40 years later. This included painting and sand blasting though not on a daily basis.

DerStig, what kind of use are you really expecting here? Certainly a heavy duty compressor will have no issue with light duty home use but you might be spending 2x what is needed to have a reliable home setup. My father is semi-retired and no longer doing things like painting. His current compressor is a 12 cfm, 2 stage 80 gallon Campbell Hausfeld I scored for free. It wouldn't have been sufficient for his earlier work but it's sufficient for his current needs which includes a blast cabinet.

I did find a bit more on the noise front

It looks like Eaton might sell their noise system as a stand alone item
https://www.slideshare.net/eaton-co...essor-installation-manual-by-eaton-compressor

Here is some taking something like the HF 5hp pump and adding a DIY intake made from car parts and hose

And here is the DIY Eaton like system I linked recently in a different thread

I would start start without the car muffler. I'm not sure it's needed but if so you might be able to build something like the Eaton setup which is really little more than a muffler box.

 

[Firebrick43]

I've always had lawn equipment with an oil pump run circles around splash lube stuff when it comes to checking the hour meter on the original motor.

IIRC most of the QP stuff can be run at about 50% of max speed, I don't think the splash lube can do that. this means you can run a smaller motor/pulley, or use a VFD on it with a pressure transducer.

got a QR-25 at work. it's a monster.

I would agree with you on higher hp motors(18hp+) on hilly or inclined terrain but there are lots of single cylinder engines that did quite well without. Even the kt17 series 1 Kohler twin did ok with spray lube but operate them across a slope and they would chuck rods.

Gravely switched from pressure lube engines to splash lubed Kohlers starting in the late sixties and a all walk behind machines by the mid 70’s. The kohlers did fine even on steep slopes in these machines. Honda GX and Dahautsu made vanguard singles do quite well splash lubed.

Sorry, I am not following. Are you saying quincy isnt as good or the other way around?

My point is that people will argue till blue about the superiority of Quincy because of their pressure lube. I will never say that these compressors are inferior to any thing. It my opinion that some others such as champion and Kellogg were just as good even with splash lube.

 

[DerStig]

I wouldn't discount the Champion VR (reed valve) pumps either. Dad used one for years. I think it's still going at least 40 years later. This included painting and sand blasting though not on a daily basis.

DerStig, what kind of use are you really expecting here? Certainly a heavy duty compressor will have no issue with light duty home use but you might be spending 2x what is needed to have a reliable home setup. My father is semi-retired and no longer doing things like painting. His current compressor is a 12 cfm, 2 stage 80 gallon Campbell Hausfeld I scored for free. It wouldn't have been sufficient for his earlier work but it's sufficient for his current needs which includes a blast cabinet.

I did find a bit more on the noise front

It looks like Eaton might sell their noise system as a stand alone item
https://www.slideshare.net/eaton-co...essor-installation-manual-by-eaton-compressor

Here is some taking something like the HF 5hp pump and adding a DIY intake made from car parts and hose

And here is the DIY Eaton like system I linked recently in a different thread

I would start start without the car muffler. I'm not sure it's needed but if so you might be able to build something like the Eaton setup which is really little more than a muffler box.

Here is my use case:

- It is a attached garage (upstairs rooms are bedrooms).
- I will run things like car lifts and a running scissor lift (which requires a lot of air above 125 psi).
- Air tools (impact wrench, die grinders, nail gun).
- Spray painting (but NOT automotive paint).

Where I may have a special case is I will be very frequently (at least once a year) spray painting various things around my property (fences, kid's playground, steps, deck) where I will be running 100+ ft of hose. Same goes for nail gun.

The fence is a privacy fence and is around 400-450 ft long and 6 ft high. Painting it with hand would be insane. The playground is big and high and is about 75 ft away from the house. The deck is pretty high (around 10 ft) and again painting it on a ladder using brush/roller is impossible.

I do NOT have any plans to run things like sanders or sand blasters. BUT, I dont know what I may or may not do in the future. I want to buy this thing once and not have to sell/etc and upgrade 5 years later. The hassle of doing that is not worth an extra $500-600.

 

[csp]

With your expected use it's stupid to spend the money on an industrial rated compressor unless it's a used one. Yes, I did use the word stupid.

 

[DerStig]

With your expected use it's stupid to spend the money on an industrial rated compressor unless it's a used one. Yes, I did use the word stupid.

Well, two things:

1) This is my current use. The current use does not include potential use which I cant do right now because I dont have a compressor. In other words, I dont have any other use cases because I dont have the capability to even explore.

2) I have no other way of performing the paint work. The cost of paying for someone pays for the entire compressor in 2 years.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Do you have a budget in mind?

 

[DerStig]

Do you have a budget in mind?

I dont, but I dont want to go crazy and overpay for something I wont be able to take advantage of. I think $2000-3000 is what I had in mind.

The way I think about this is paying $1450 for QT-54 and have a 101db compressor that will turn into a baking oven is wasteful spending. I would rather pay $1000-1500 more.

 

[Citation]

I dont, but I dont want to go crazy and overpay for something I wont be able to take advantage of. I think $2000-3000 is what I had in mind.

The way I think about this is paying $1450 for QT-54 and have a 101db compressor that will turn into a baking oven is wasteful spending. I would rather pay $1000-1500 more.

The noise differences between "pro-sumer" and industrial may not be much at all. It's been too long for me to do a direct comparison but I would be surprised if my dad's Champion 5hp compressor was quieter than his current 4hp Campbell Hausfelt/Husky (both are 2 stage 80 gallon units). Where people get hung up on this is when they start thinking about the old direct drive, oil free compressors typically sold by Sears. Those were loud. My belt drive 120V compressor saw a about 8db drop in sound levels by changes only to the intake/filter setup. When I picked up my little California Air Tools compressor I was disappointed with the noise levels at first. It was a lot louder than I remember. Then I put the air filter on... well that helped. Then I put that stupid little bit of tubing into the air filter like the instructions said... that helped even more?!

Find a compressor that is appropriate for you needs. The noise differences are easy to deal with so long as it has a standard threaded on air filter housing.

 

[DerStig]

The noise differences between "pro-sumer" and industrial may not be much at all. It's been too long for me to do a direct comparison but I would be surprised if my dad's Champion 5hp compressor was quieter than his current 4hp Campbell Hausfelt/Husky (both are 2 stage 80 gallon units). Where people get hung up on this is when they start thinking about the old direct drive, oil free compressors typically sold by Sears. Those were loud. My belt drive 120V compressor saw a about 8db drop in sound levels by changes only to the intake/filter setup. When I picked up my little California Air Tools compressor I was disappointed with the noise levels at first. It was a lot louder than I remember. Then I put the air filter on... well that helped. Then I put that stupid little bit of tubing into the air filter like the instructions said... that helped even more?!

Find a compressor that is appropriate for you needs. The noise differences are easy to deal with so long as it has a standard threaded on air filter housing.

Well, if quincy's readings/spec is accurate (and I have no reason to doubt that), the difference between a 1750 rpm pump vs a 680 rpm pump ias 13 db. That is around 2.5 times louder. I spent quite a bit of my adult life in exhaust tuning with db meters and trust me even a single db makes an audible difference once you are around 80 db.

I have an oilless husky 175 psi compressor which is at 87 db. If the cheaper quincy is 85 db, then thats too much for paying nearly $1500.

If the quincy was $500 and the next best option was 6 times more, then that would be more compelling. But $1500 is a lot of money to buy a compromise compressor.

 

[Citation]

Well, if quincy's readings/spec is accurate (and I have no reason to doubt that), the difference between a 1750 rpm pump vs a 680 rpm pump ias 13 db. That is around 2.5 times louder. I spent quite a bit of my adult life in exhaust tuning with db meters and trust me even a single db makes an audible difference once you are around 80 db.

I have an oilless husky 175 psi compressor which is at 87 db. If the cheaper quincy is 85 db, then thats too much for paying nearly $1500.

If the quincy was $500 and the next best option was 6 times more, then that would be more compelling. But $1500 is a lot of money to buy a compromise compressor.

First, you should verify those numbers are measured the same way. I mean they likely are because you are dealing with a single mfr but still, it's worth verifying that one isn't at say 1m while the other is at 6ft or some such nonsense. If you have links that would help. I would also want to see the difference in air intakes etc. I could believe some of it if we are talking about a small pump that peaks at 5hp vs a large pump that has a minimum power rating of 5hp. Looking at Quincy's website I don't see the noise levels in an obvious place.

Second, I will stress, the intake makes a huge difference. Look at Eaton's claims. The base compressor claims 73db (seems like it was probably not measured at 1m distance)
https://eatoncompressor.com/product...-80-gallon-vertical/#technical-specifications

The quiet version claims a 25% DBA reduction. Well if they say so.
https://eatoncompressor.com/product...cal-industrial-plus/#technical-specifications

Here is another example, these two CH OEM'ed compressors are similar to my dad's Husky other than a bit more motor. The noise levels are rated at 78 and 84db even though, as far as I can tell, they are the same pump. The filter housing might be different
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8...ry-2-Stage-Air-Compressor-HDC802000/312943642
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-80-Gallon-Two-Stage-Electric-Vertical-Air-Compressor/1000528985
Either is likely sufficient for your needs and if it's not as quiet as the Quincy at this point, it likely would be with an upgraded intake (see the Eaton setup or my DIY updates).

 

[u3b3rg33k]

might be worth looking at the Polar Air lineup and the range topper:
https://eatoncompressor.com/product/10-hp-variable-speed-silent-air-compressor/

soft start/VFD (so the lights don't dim) and a silencer. of course if you're painting you'll probably want filters and dryers too. they offer that as a kit (at least the dryer).

I've got 2 stage tsunami filters in front of my refrigerated air dryer set 3-4 degrees C. i've got no issues with water condensation or oil mist.

 

[DerStig]

might be worth looking at the Polar Air lineup and the range topper:
https://eatoncompressor.com/product/10-hp-variable-speed-silent-air-compressor/

soft start/VFD (so the lights don't dim) and a silencer. of course if you're painting you'll probably want filters and dryers too. they offer that as a kit (at least the dryer).

I've got 2 stage tsunami filters in front of my refrigerated air dryer set 3-4 degrees C. i've got no issues with water condensation or oil mist.

I thought lights dimming was due to improper wire size. Lights can dim even in a smaller circuit if you dont upsize. I always oversize wire for pretty much anything. I ran a 2/0 to a 125 amp sub panel that is about 2.5-3 ft from where the compressor will be and I plan to run #6 or #8 THHN (7.5 hp or 5 hp). Why would the lights dim?

 

[u3b3rg33k]

I thought lights dimming was due to improper wire size. Lights can dim even in a smaller circuit if you dont upsize. I always oversize wire for pretty much anything. I ran a 2/0 to a 125 amp sub panel that is about 2.5-3 ft from where the compressor will be and I plan to run #6 or #8 THHN (7.5 hp or 5 hp). Why would the lights dim?

We're not talking voltage drop at 80% load, we're talking inrush.

starting a huge motor draws way more power than you might think. The LRA on my 5HP motor is 125A. I have 100A service. I would be surprised if you DIDN'T notice when it started.

starting a 40HP motor at work is the same. almost 95A FLA @230V on the nameplate. that puts it in the 400-500A LRA/startup vicinity. you can see the voltage drop on the meter while it starts up.
Same goes for the QR-25 only it's much less severe.

with a VFD/soft starter, you can limit your inrush current to whatever gives you the torque to start your load. often that's FLA if you need full torque to start things moving. so for a 5HP motor, that's around 22 Amps, not 122 amps.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

DV Systems and Jenny also make excellent compressors in this range.

 

[csp]

Well, two things:

1) This is my current use. The current use does not include potential use which I cant do right now because I dont have a compressor. In other words, I dont have any other use cases because I dont have the capability to even explore.

2) I have no other way of performing the paint work. The cost of paying for someone pays for the entire compressor in 2 years.

And I would guess that even with your potential uses they won't be an everyday occurence.

If your budget doesn't care about spending extra for a compressor that's up to a 100% duty cycle, day in and day out, by all means go for it. IMO, you're looking at a dump truck to haul a load that might push the limits of a one ton pickup every once in a while.

I have three pressure lubed Quincys, but they were all purchased used and I have less than $1k into all three. Each one outperforms anything in the big box stores and will likely outlive me. If they don't they are easy to repair.

 

[DerStig]

And I would guess that even with your potential uses they won't be an everyday occurence.

If your budget doesn't care about spending extra for a compressor that's up to a 100% duty cycle, day in and day out, by all means go for it. IMO, you're looking at a dump truck to haul a load that might push the limits of a one ton pickup every once in a while.

I have three pressure lubed Quincys, but they were all purchased used and I have less than $1k into all three. Each one outperforms anything in the big box stores and will likely outlive me. If they don't they are easy to repair.

Budget is a funny concept. I dont have a limit but I also do. The limit isnt a real limit, its more of a mental one. I hate overspending. But at the same time, I believe in buying once and best (within my means).

That being said, I have one last question/clarification I need that I am at a bit of a loss.

The primarily reason why I am considering the QP compressor is the low pump RPM and by extension noise. The "spec sheet" of the compressor says it has a 680 RPM pump speed. QT-5 has a 942 pump RPM which is 50% more. At 73 db, QP is 7 db quieter than QT-5. All good. Whats not good is aircompressordirect says their information on QP-5 (and they double checked) says that its pump RPM is same as QT-5, 942 rpm. Furthermore, a "product brochure" for QP-5 that has nice graphics and table that lists various configurations of all QP-5 line, does indeed specify 942 rpm as the pump speed. A phone call to quincy customer service wasnt very helpful as the lady on the phone was pretty much looking at the same technical data sheet I was and said 680 RPM. But then there is the other brochure (which appears very recent).

Last thing I want is to spend the premium only to find out the only difference between QP-5 and QT-5 was oiling (pressure lubrication, spin on filter, oil level glass) and that the RPM thing and by extension noise level were identical between the two units.

Not sure what to do. But if the noise is identical, to me QP-5 would be a waste of money (for my use case).

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

I just looked at the PDF on the QP on Quincy's website and it shows 942 RPM.

 

[DerStig]

I just looked at the PDF on the QP on Quincy's website and it shows 942 RPM.

Is there a way to know if the QP and QT have the same pump?

Also, this is the spec sheet that says 680 RPM as a reference : https://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/manuals/c53e3b56eae9894a314007d2081ac05f.pdf

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

A good way to check would be to download the parts manuals for both on Quincy's site and compare part #'s. If they're the same, the only difference should be with regards to pressure lubrication.