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Question wiring t5 lights.

Skdrcr23

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Jul 29, 2015
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I have some t5 lights that I plan on wiring in my
detached accesory building. I have six of them total
that I plan on running on 3 switches of 2 so I can save
on energy and just use 2 of them at a time. My first
question is should I be fine running all of them on the
same 20a circuit? My second question is on the wiring
coming out of the lights. They have 3 wires and a spot for
a ground screw I will show in the picture below. Do I need to run a 4 wire system to them with 2 hots, a neutral
and a ground to wire correctly? Would I need a double
pole 20a circuit breaker for the 2 hots?
thanks for the info!
 

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Skdrcr23

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I couldn't find a wiring diagram on the ballast
anywhere. it's just 3 wires coming out and then
a spot on the bracket for a ground screw
 

matt_i

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About the first, assuming 120vac, you have 54W/tube x 4 tubes/fixture x 6 fixtures = 1296W = 1300W. Roughly 11A draw on your circuit.

Not sure how lights are wired, unless its something special where there are two ballasts and half of the fixture can be turned on at once, or two ballasts in parallel. Would have to open them up to understand more, as mentioned above.
 

UpNorther

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Really need a picture of ballast like Klassenl said above.

My guess is 2 - 120v ballasts and there is Inboard/Outboard lighting. So can switch outside tubes independently from inside tubes already.
Yes, 1 - 20amp circuit would be fine.
 
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Skdrcr23

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The way they were wired up at our shop, the light didn't turn on independently of each other when was powered up all four lit up. I'll try to take the fixture to where I can get to the actual ballast and send a picture
 

Cmreschke

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Could always just hook it to a cord and plug into wall to find out what each wire does. Get a disposal cord. Hook up ground and neutral to respective wires. Hook black to black. Test. Hook to red. Test. It's not a 240 volt with neutral fixture for sure. Neutral isn't necessary for 240 volt lights. So it's for sure 120 or 277. If 277 then it's garbage to you. So let's just pretend until proven otherwise that it is 120 volts. Just test it this way prior to installing it and you will know what you need to do once it's installed.
 

cybrdyke

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It would be EXTREEEEEEEMELY odd for there to be a red wire on the front end of a T5HO ballast.
There should be a black and a white, for sure, maybe even a green. If it's a 4 lamp ballast, there should also be a gray-ish wire (it might even have a red stripe), which is a switch wire.
You need to open that thing up and figure out whats up with that red one.
CD
 
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Skdrcr23

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ok, I have pics of ballast and diagram below.
hope this helps.
 

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klassenl

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White and grey from the ballast go to the neutral (white) in your circuit. Then black to black and all of your lamps will light.
 
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Skdrcr23

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Ok, so I only need to run 2 wires, one power (black) wire and one neutral (white) wire and they'll be good to go. No need for a ground because the ballast is bonded to
the case correct?
 
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Skdrcr23

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Ok, so I only need to run 2 wires, one power (black) wire and one neutral (white) wire and they'll be good to go. Should there be a wire coming off the ballast that I ground to the case?
 
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cybrdyke

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Ok, so I only need to run 2 wires, one power (black) wire and one neutral (white) wire and they'll be good to go. Should there be a wire coming off the ballast that I ground to the case?

Right. There is typically a mounting screw in one end of the ballast. This screw connects the mounting foot of the ballast to the chassis of the fixture.
There also will likely be a ground wire in your fixture whip that should be connected to the fixture somewhere.
CD
 
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Skdrcr23

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Got em working, thanks for the help guys.
One last question. Would it hurt to run a 3rd wire
(ground) on the circut to each light from my breaker panel to each fixture or would there be no need for it?
 

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Skdrcr23

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It would be EXTREEEEEEEMELY odd for there to be a red wire on the front end of a T5HO ballast.
There should be a black and a white, for sure, maybe even a green. If it's a 4 lamp ballast, there should also be a gray-ish wire (it might even have a red stripe), which is a switch wire.
You need to open that thing up and figure out whats up with that red one.
CD

In the picture you were looking at, the red wire on the front end was the switching wire. It's a Sylvania ballast and I had to wire it with the black wire and run the white/neutral wire by itself to work so it was different then the ballast from the later pic that had the gray wire
 

cybrdyke

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In the picture you were looking at, the red wire on the front end was the switching wire. It's a Sylvania ballast and I had to wire it with the black wire and run the white/neutral wire by itself to work so it was different then the ballast from the later pic that had the gray wire

:thumbup:
 

Charles (in GA)

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Chassis ground screw is clearly visible in the pic, between the ballast housing and the hole the wires pass thru. The green screw with the two raised humps to contain the wire wrapped around the screw. Put your ground wire onto this.

Charles
 
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