Questions about an old walker 2 ton; paging Hiball

[transittech]

So,
I am rebuilding an old Walker (Ajax branded) 2 ton floor jack and I have some questions about it. (I already have a rebuild kit, but have further questions)

1. Is this the correct order for the check valves in the first picture? I put all the pieces in individual bags when I took it apart, but I must have mixed something up, because one piece definitely didn't fit where I had it. I don't know where the small square spacer fits. D'oh!

2. The main ram has some 'heavy' scoring from before, its bad enough I can feel it with my finger after honing. Can't get a good picture, I've tried 2 dozen pics. I have buffed it a lot with 500 grit sandpaper, and its still there, BUT it is much better than before. It held pressure fine and didn't leak down at all before taking it apart, but the fluid was sludge, literally. Should I worry about it? This jack has many MILES on it, literally, and I just want it to be safe.

3. I would like to remove the main pivot to lube and re-assemble, but it seems frozen. Should I try harder? Does it just press out?

4. This jack is missing a few zerk fittings; the front wheels, and the main pivot. Are they press in or are they something else? I could put it in a press, but don't want to break it if its not supposed to come apart this way.

Thanks for your help!

 

[Hiball]

1. Valve order looks correct, if the balls are the correct size 5/16 and 7/32 if I recall, I'm away from home getting ready to jump on a train so ill verify mmid morning.

2. Are the rough spots only near the end? Or the entire cylinder length?

3. It does press out, albeit they are generally snug from under maintenance.

4. There are 2 types of grease zerts, press style and threaded. I believe your jack uses the threaded style. Clean and Verify prior to installing..

 

[transittech]

Thanks for your super quick response, I really appreciate it.

The groves run pretty much the whole length of the cylinder, for sure the "working length." They match the groves in the ram, which I can get a better picture of. I am obviously worried about sealing. I don't really know if these are just stains, or rust pits. They don't seem very deep at all, like maybe the plating has etched off??

I'm also wondering if my new rubber seals that come in the kit will seal it. If they were leather, I wouldn't be worried about it, because like I said, the old ones sealed great.

 

[Hiball]

Thanks for your super quick response, I really appreciate it.

The groves run pretty much the whole length of the cylinder, for sure the "working length." They match the groves in the ram, which I can get a better picture of. I am obviously worried about sealing. I don't really know if these are just stains, or rust pits. They don't seem very deep at all, like maybe the plating has etched off??

I'm also wondering if my new rubber seals that come in the kit will seal it. If they were leather, I wouldn't be worried about it, because like I said, the old ones sealed great.

Well.. Any Imperfections, albeit Small ones are gonna do one of 2 things, Blow by under pressure or Damage the seal when its pressed against the cylinder wall over multiple passes.

Was the Old Seal a Poly? I only ask because the 2 aren't interchangeable... You cant put a Poly seal on a Series that utilized Leather or Vice Versa (without changing the Seal type, going from Leather piston to Poly Piston) There are ways to fill Voids on the Cylinder Walls, A member here "Edgar" uses SuperGlue and has claimed to have good luck, Obviously after the they are filled you must re-hone the cylinder. Without having it here in front of me, I cant really make a Decision on whether it would cause issues under pressure or not, But it looks suspect.. maybe its just the picture's.