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Questions about PC (powder coating)

camardelle

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Willis, just north of Houston
Not political correctness. LOL

I'm expecting my powder coating system from Eastwood to arrive this week. I tend to do little artsy stuff, not a lot of car/bike stuff that some of you pros do here. And let me add that I have no intention of this becoming a job. I had one of those and I retired about a year ago so I'm not in competition with anyone of you pro powder coaters. When I started retirement, my goal was to become a proficient welder, not to do it professionally but more as a hobby. I'm still terrible but I've gotten good enough to cause trouble and spend way too much money on equipment. I find myself enjoying making gifts for friends and may try to sell a few online or in some consignment shops. My main focus is on motorcycle and car related bookends that would look nice in someone's home or their office. Here's a couple of my prototypes….

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I've been using paint, but I think that powder coating on a small scale basis would dramatically improve the looks of my product. I want it to look nice enough to be in someone's living room, so I have a question…

I think I'm pretty familiar with how the setup works, and the procedure. My question is how do I do something two tone? After creating the item, would I tape off the base and coat the sprocket/whatever and then powder it again with a clear? Also, can I use the tape to tape off the inner teeth on the sprocket? That way I could weld the chain to it keeping it in it's natural state which I think looks better.

Any advice is welcomed. Thanks in advance for your help.
 
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Whiskeymike

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Two tone is done by:

Mask area intended for second color, spray part and cure in oven. Remove mask material, apply mask to first color area, spray part put back in oven and cure..

Ground is crucial, so be sure to make sure you have a clean area to ground the second time around.

For masking material, there are several options - hi temp masking tape, aluminum foil (bigger areas), and I've head of people using regular green painters tape then spraying and once you've put in oven, carefully (and quickly) remove masking tape before curing.

Multiple coats are possible and sometimes required for certain colors/finishes like a candy color can have a base and then a candy clear. Or a black like you have, plus a clear over all of it.

The difficulty with the piece you are working on is the teeth coming through the chain. I don't know of a method to get the black coating to the teeth without getting it on the chain. It would be the same for spray painting with a rattle can. You would need to do them separately and attach mechanically with something like a rivet.

If you google how to two tone color powder coating, you'll see many articles with pictures and guidance. There seem to be some considerations if the two colors have different temperature requirements, but you might want to check for manufacturer guidance.

Good luck. It's a fun finishing process.
 
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NthoozEist

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Cool concept! And I think they look good as is, but if you're like me they won't be to your standards until they're perfect in your eyes haha
 
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camardelle

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The difficulty with the piece you are working on is the teeth coming through the chain. I don't know of a method to get the black coating to the teeth without getting it on the chain. It would be the same for spray painting with a rattle can. You would need to do them separately and attach mechanically with something like a rivet.

Good luck. It's a fun finishing process.

That's why I was asking about the tape. I've got some high temp tape coming from Eastwood. My plan was to run the tape along the "top" of the bookend where the teeth are and powder coating the rest of the unit. That would leave the surface where the teeth make a "U" bare metal and I could weld the chain in a couple places. This would secure the chain to the sprocket, yet leave it kind of loose so it would better represent what a chain looks like on a bike.

Not sure if I'm explaining it properly but even with more education than everyone in my family it's the best I can do. LOL

Thanks for the tips. The oven gets here tomorrow, and the gun and powders and stuff get here Wednesday. I'm really looking forward to giving this a shot.
 

MFolks

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How were the sprockets cut? Most are pretty tough items,unless they were Aluminum.I suppose baking in a forge would take the temper out, softening the steel(if that's what they were made of).
 
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camardelle

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Going to add on here with another metal working question.

After cutting the metal for the bookend bases, how do I get a smooth edge on the sides? I've tried an angle girder, and a bench grinder. Is a sander a good option?
 

Whiskeymike

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Have you tried flap discs on your grinder? I'd pick up some 36 grit and then 80 or 120. One might be enough, but you'd have try it out. With powder coating, you probably leave them pretty rough since the sand blasting will make them rough anyways.
 

FJM.Restorations

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Lake St. Louis Missouri
I'd powder coat the works black, without the chain, then grind the finish off of a small spot on the top tooth and the bottom tooth. then put the chain on, wrap the works so splatter wont touch anything, and put a very small tack at both places to hold chain on. then put a clear coat on the whole works. They look sharp.
 
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camardelle

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Thanks for the input FMJ. I appreciate it!! I'm toying with so many color ideas right now. All my powder stuff came in today. I plan to cut some test pieces from some flat stock I got the other day and try the different colors. I'll keep everyone updated.
 

CudaChick1968

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Why not just coat your sprocket and base assembly, and use a spot of silver solder inside each groove to later fasten the chain in place?

You don't really outline the details of what you have in mind for your two-tone scheme so it's hard to help with any masking particulars. I have a feeling high temp tape isn't going to help you much though -- especially if it's the chain you want an accent color on.

If you heat the chain up without cleaning and outgassing it first, it's likely to seep all over and ruin your efforts no matter how careful you are.

Good luck! Keep us posted.
 
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camardelle

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Thanks for the input cudachick1968. One of reasons I asked was I wasn't sure about color schemes other than a black base and orange sprocket with a natural chain and the entire unit cleared. Or a single color and natural chain. Lots of options. I know you're a pro and appreciate your attention.

I have a concern about heat in the chain with the o rings. The only way I can think of to get rid of the o rings except to burn the chain and restart the cleaning process again.

Your thoughts?
 
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camardelle

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I'll be starting tomorrow I hope. I'm pretty stoked. I think I'll start out with something not so critical like the 13mm wrench I use to change the oil in my Jeep that I can never remember which size to use. It'll be easy to pick out that way. LOL

My plan is to start with the colors I have now and coat some sample steel pieces and hang them so I know what they'll look like. From there I can see what color combos I think will look nice.

I'm thinking my wife wishes I had a mistress. It'd be cheaper, and she'd see me more. LOL!

Thanks for everyone's help.
 
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camardelle

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Funny thing…my oil change indicator in the Jeep came on today after I stopped at the UPS store to ship a bike seat. It should be easy enough to locate the wrench I need now. LOL

I think this is going to be fun!!

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CudaChick1968

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I can't help but laugh at the typo.

If you can't keep the wife out from under it, she's gonna seriously impede your progress. :D

Wire marks can be dealt with in most cases. In yours with the wrench test up there, you didn't really want powder in the point or box ends for two reasons. It can transfer onto the bolt you're tourquing, and you just changed the size of your wrench by a few mils.

You'll learn what works, and quickly discover if you're going to turn into an addict ... or pitch it across the shop into your roll up door. :D

And don't worry -- I'll beat myself for the wife remark. I'm closer. Lol :lol_hitti
 
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camardelle

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Do not beat yourself. I just re-read my post and it's hysterical. My wife thought your reply was just as funny. LOL

Luckily I don't do any work that is measured in millimeters, more like yards in some of my projects. I agree that I should have used a silicon plug in the box end if the wrench.

I'm having an absolute blast learning new skills like welding and powder coating. This beats the you know what out of working! LOL!


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Fxsb103

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Stationary Belt sander. Takes the burrs right off. looks like Eastwood has an 8" grinder combo for $99. #13577
 
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camardelle

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Well, as an update….

I've built a few bookends and they've met with pretty good success. I'm still working on design aspects but I think I have it prototyped as much as I want to. Now it's just a matter of getting my TIG welding skills up to par so I can really make them look nice. I've been powder coating as well. I've done some of the bookends, but man folks are all over me to do their cups! Unfortunately I found my Eastwood oven too small to accommodate the large cups so I ended up tabbing a stand and turning it on it's side. I think I can powder coat short people in it now. LOL

Still in the learning process for cutting vinyl and coating the cups but I'm having a blast. Thanks to everyone who helped.

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camardelle

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I will. That would make life so much easier!!

Question if I may…Can I powder coat over another coat of cured powder or will that give me fits? Some of the powder I got from Eastwood is supposed to go over a chrome powder such as the translucent teal shown above but I did it straight to the cup. If I'm going with a second coat, do I let the first coat cure and then apply the second, or let it flow and them apply the second coat?
 
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camardelle

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Willis, just north of Houston
A couple of samples of what I've been working on and a question for the group.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a clear topcoat that has a low curing temp...like around 300 or so?

Thanks in advance. All input is welcomed.


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camardelle

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OK, I need some advice from you pro power coaters. I'm looking for a color match to the University of Texas burnt orange. Eastwood has something that looks close, and I'm much too intimidated to wander through the 10 pages or so that Prismatic has.

Any suggestions?
 

CudaChick1968

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Per the University's preferred color palette, you're looking for this.

https://www.utdallas.edu/brand/img/palette/flame.png

It should be RAL 2010, the equivalent of PMS-159. If you're looking for a solid tone, check out New Tucker Orange from NIC. Some candy oranges tend to more resemble root beer.

I'd love to suggest Burley Man Orange just for its name but if a few color swatches intimidate you then maybe this isn't the industry for you. LMAO!!!!!!!!!! :lol_hitti Jes' messin with ya.
 
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camardelle

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LOL Thanks CC. I ended up ordering some Shimmer Candy Burnt Orange after conversing with them for a bit. I ordered a minimal amount so I will check out the link you posted if it does not meet with the client's approval. You guys are awesome!!

What is NIC?
 

CudaChick1968

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NIC is the parent company for Prismatic Powders, the one with pages of samples you were afraid to investigate. They also do custom formulations in the small chance they don't already manufacture the exact color you need. I would think your orange is just as popular as the University of Tennessee's.
 

CudaChick1968

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They should be similar I hope. Thanks for the clarification. If not I'll check out the burley man orange next.

LOL!!! Burley Man Orange isn't even close -- I just loved the name and used it to poke the bear a little bit.

You can also check out APP (All Powder Paints). They have a pretty good selection too, including the standard RAL colors.
 
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camardelle

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The bear is old. No poking! LOL

I just unpacked the powder. I know it's not cooked yet but my initial impression of the color is positive. My client is excited and I'm stoked to give it a go!


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