questions about replacing asphalt driveway

[samk9080]

Hi All,

So my driveway is long overdue to be replaced. Its about 45 years old. I've attached a ton of images below so you can see the condition.

Lotta grass growing thru and its uneven in many areas.

I've talked to a few contractors and they all suggest one of the following:

1. remove everything and replace the base and then lay down a new driveway
2. remove the old driveway, patch base where needed and then lay down a new driveway
3. lay new driveway on top of old one

Any ideas or suggestions what I should do? Ball park figure for a new driveway is $12K. If a new base is needed then another $10K on top of that. Its 3300 sq. ft.

I'm wondering is a new base really needed? I don't want to skimp on the work and then 1-2 years later have the driveway falling apart again, while at the same time don't want to waste the extra $10K if truly not needed.

Let me know what ya'll think.

Thanks!

 

[olytdi]

I'm no expert so take this for what you paid for it. A couple of thoughts: That asphalt looks shady like it was a badly laid product originally. Almost looks like a thin layer put directly on substrate. Also, the driveway looks a little sunken relative to the grade around it. Almost looks like it is on clay soil which make any base difficult to prevent from sinking. Ask me how I know!

I'd probably dig up a couple of areas to examine what's underneath and to assess the base if there is any. If you end up laying a new base layer, don't skimp on it's robustness and if there is evidence of sinking, consider a geotextile with the base. Being as low as it looks relative to the grade on each side, it looks like water probably pools on it(?). There's no way in hell that I'd build on top of existing. Ask a LOT of questions and discuss robustness, water drainage, and grade.

 

[The Cobbler]

definitely not option 3 if you want any life out of the new one.
opt 2 would probably be a viable option, but a few tests to see how deep it is would be a good idea.
Option 1, best plan for best possible longevity

 

[Rusted Nut]

Remove existing asphalt, test existing base and go from there.

 

[mike93lx]

Anybody recommending a go over shouldn't get the work.

 

[jhelrey]

Easily cut some costs by getting rid of the turn around and focus on one driveway vs what you have.

 

[CombatNinja]

What am I looking at here? Is it like a circular drive with 2 ways to the street?

Seems extravagant. Just ditch the circle and save a ton of money.

Also, looking at the houses around you: your neighbors hate you. Just so you're aware.

 

[Byrdnyrd]

^^^^ This. Your neighbors will prolly pitch in the $ to delete that circlesque drive!

 

[samk9080]

Yup its definitely an eye sore. It is a U shaped driveway with 2 ways to the street. Only 1 contractor who has nothing but top 5 star reviews suggested the idea that once they tear up the driveway, they'll at that point determine the quality of the base. 3 other contractors have just said option 2. and lastly 1 bozo said option 3 which I never liked.

 

[billconner]

I grew up in a house with circular driveway and miss it. Would like one now. Big turn around area at top is not as good.

You need a good base.

 

[samk9080]

is a similar style base needed if I went with concrete rather than asphalt?

 

[jack stand]

Yes and no, asphalt has no strength and is fully dependent on the sub grade. Concrete is structural providing that it's designed for the load. This takes more concrete and reinforcement, much more expensive than a properly placed and compacted sub grade.
Everything "carrying" a load depends on delivering it to solid ground.
In general I'd suggest that most of what I see in your pictures should have 4 to 6" added to the finished surface and graded accordingly to move water away from the driveway just as you would for a building.
There's some considerations for the pipe also. There's not a lot of room for cover, pipes need to be buried by a certain amount that's determined mostly by its diameter and a loaded oil truck...
This might be a good place for a concrete apron at the road/pipe.

 

[CraigStu]

We had a drive shaped like yours in our last house. Every once in a while I look at our current plain nearly straight driveway and 100% wish it were a half circle.

 

[The Cobbler]

is a similar style base needed if I went with concrete rather than asphalt?

depending a lot on soil conditions, but normally concrete doesn't need much base .

 

[reader2580]

The cracks in the old asphalt will telegraph right through the new asphalt. Many old two lane highways in Minnesota were originally done in concrete when the highways were new back in the 20s or 30s. Asphalt was placed over the old concrete and even a brand new layer of asphalt cracks within a year from the old concrete.

My brother’s father in law owned a well regarded asphalt driveway company. He recommended the new base be in place over winter and paving in the spring. I would go with new base as you never know what shortcuts they took decades ago.

 

[Steve W.]

3300 sq ft for $12-22k? That's a pretty good bargain.

I had my driveway replaced/extended in 2016 after completing my shop. Had a two-car wide driveway with a three-car turnaround between the front sidewalk and the house garage. Pulled all that out, had to install some geotextile due to mushy clay, and replace ALL the base in that area. Then had to go back another 90' or so to the shop, new base and blacktop all the way. Also have a paved pad on the side of the shop. Total of about 3700 sq ft, cost was about $16k.

Considering your three options, I would go with option 1.5. Pull up the existing blacktop, evaluate the condition of the base. After any repairs, add a couple inches of base to smooth it out, pack it well, then add your 4" or so of blacktop.

Others have vetoed option 3, I'll just add that if you went that route, you would have a massive step from the grass to the driveway, making it difficult to mow. Even just walking there would be a substantial trip hazard.

.

 

[gregs]

Would a driveway in that condition be suitable to place concrete on top of? Could you add form boards along the edges and pour a 4" reinforced driveway over the existing driveway? Do some prep work like removing any large loose bits and spray all the grass and weeds to kill it and generally clean it up a bit.

 

[pbon]

Your existing driveway is so damaged that I would remove it.

 

[P0234]

3300 sq ft for $12-22k? That's a pretty good bargain..

I had about 1600 sq ft of my driveway re-done last year, here in Northern VA where nothing is cheap, they lifted up the old surface, "fixed" some areas and laid down new asphalt. I paid right at $3.75/sq ft.

 

[mike93lx]

Would a driveway in that condition be suitable to place concrete on top of? Could you add form boards along the edges and pour a 4" reinforced driveway over the existing driveway? Do some prep work like removing any large loose bits and spray all the grass and weeds to kill it and generally clean it up a bit.

A 4" driveway on top of the existing grade? Sounds more like a stage.

 

[jack stand]

That driveway is low and looks like it holds water in much of it.
"Backfilling" and blending it to the grade is normal.

 

[afinepoint]

Hi All,

So my driveway is long overdue to be replaced. Its about 45 years old. I've attached a ton of images below so you can see the condition.

Lotta grass growing thru and its uneven in many areas.

I've talked to a few contractors and they all suggest one of the following:

1. remove everything and replace the base and then lay down a new driveway
2. remove the old driveway, patch base where needed and then lay down a new driveway
3. lay new driveway on top of old one

Any ideas or suggestions what I should do? Ball park figure for a new driveway is $12K. If a new base is needed then another $10K on top of that. Its 3300 sq. ft.

I'm wondering is a new base really needed? I don't want to skimp on the work and then 1-2 years later have the driveway falling apart again, while at the same time don't want to waste the extra $10K if truly not needed.

Let me know what ya'll think.

Thanks!

If you don't want to skimp then your Item 3 is definitely out. For me so would Item 2. Start over. Remove old asphalt. Have a reputation company inspect base however they are likely going to want to start all over. Otherwise they are fixing and building on old work. No one wants to deal with another's mistakes.

Start fresh. Be sure you understand every step and what it entails specifically the grading and base. Ensure it is thick and well compacted.

 

[CJ7VFR]

definitely not option 3 if you want any life out of the new one.
opt 2 would probably be a viable option, but a few tests to see how deep it is would be a good idea.
Option 3, best plan for best possible longevity

I think you meant to say Option 1 is the best plan...

Jim

 

[The Cobbler]

I think you meant to say Option 1 is the best plan...

Jim

good catch. yup. you're right. fixed it .

 

[beltfeed]

Option 1 if you plan on staying there 10 years or more.
Option 2 if you plan on staying there 10 years or less.

 

[jack stand]

OP stated that the driveway was 45 years old! If you get 45 years out of a driveway...... That indicates the sub grade conditions are probably pretty ******** good. Those years have added to the surrounding lawns "elevation" creating a water problem.
Asphalt is permeable to an extent not to mention the cracks and IF the surface water is pooling it's probabil that a simple 3-4" layer of 3/4" stone with be all the prep work necessary.
This applies to concrete as well.

 

[mike93lx]

OP stated that the driveway was 45 years old! If you get 45 years out of a driveway...... That indicates the sub grade conditions are probably pretty ******** good. Those years have added to the surrounding lawns "elevation" creating a water problem.
Asphalt is permeable to an extent not to mention the cracks and IF the surface water is pooling it's probabil that a simple 3-4" layer of 3/4" stone with be all the prep work necessary.
This applies to concrete as well.

That driveway was checked out over 20 years ago. It's been on hospice since and should have been euthanized

 

[Dreadnought]

Option 1 is the only way to have something with a useful lifespan. I would add a new idea however that might save you a bit of $$ on the refresh. The existing surface is what we call "alligatored" and that is due both to the base failing and the asphalt losing its elasticity over time. I would suspect the base is thinner than ideal. The new approach would be to see if one of your local contractors has a asphalt pulverizer (think aggressive rototiller). Dig thru the current base and see what its depth is combined with the current asphalt. Have this contractor pulverize the existing asphalt and base in place only to the combined depth of the base and asphalt. If you have 2" of Asphalt and 4" of base material shoot for something just under 6" pulverizing depth. this will give you additional base thickness and also negate the expense of having to remove, haul and dispose of the existing asphalt. From the photos provided it appears that the current driveway is at or below the grass grade, so raising the driveway surface a few inches Might be a valid option. Have the contractor recompact/regrade this asphalt and base mix in place, supplement any thin areas with additional base material. 2 inch paving would be the absolute minimum (i would shoot for 2 1/2" -3" if your budget would allow)

 

[afinepoint]

Your words were you don't want to skimp therefore there is only one Option or should I say Option 1. You might can still keep the current base provided it is still useable after the old asphalt is stripped. But heavy equipment is going to disturb it. A skid/front end loader is hardly a surgical tool. A good contractor is going to have to relevel and certainly re-compact.