Questions about restoring old tool boxes

[aroncornell]

Ok this is for the guys who have done the wonderful restorations that I have seen on here. I have a couple old boxes that I have been wanting to re do but have never done any painting. I just plan on rattle canning my boxes. I know I have to sand down to bare metal, but I am looking for the steps to take from here as far as how many coats of primer, when to sand, how many coats of paint and when to sand that and then what grit sand paper and when to use each ... I know everyone has their own way, but anything to help me to get started would a great help. One more question.... How do I paint the piano hinge on the top lid? Thanks again for any help.

 

[FJ 432]

I've done a few but have never posted a final result but I have also read some of the same posts of other restorations.

The first thing I would say is that it isn't an easy job. I sand, wire wheel and just about anything else to take it to bare metal. A wire wheel works best on the slides for the drawers. I have not used a primer coat but I will probably regret it on that one set of drawers I rattled canned. I usually take the stripped version of the cabinet to a powder coater and I've been very pleased with the results.

I have never solved the problem of the piano hinge. I usually strip with a wire wheel and when they come back from the powder coating shop they stick a little but work themselves out. Everything else is usually rivets and are fairly easy to deal with. Good Luck.

 

[billybudge]

Hi Buddy:
Depending on the size, condition and use of the tool boxes, are they carry type or roll cabs, well I have restored 1000s of them,
as a basic rule, you do not need to take of all the original paint,ok,
Clean the box, then sand using 240 grit until you have a good surface to work with, do not be afraid of using car filler on any dings and dents, tap out any other dents etc,
then re sand with 340gt paper, by now you should have a good flat surface , all shaping work if needed is done,
I would then spray 2 to 3 coats of grey primer, over everything, allow to dry between each coat,
then using about 450grit wet and dry paper, use it wet with warm soapy water and smooth out the whole surface, then look at it for any imperfections, if all good, spray one light coat of paint, allow to dry, spray a 2nd good coat allow to dry , and then for a better finish , ideal for glosses, wet and dry the surface again with 800 grit wet and dry. warm the paint can in a bucket of warm water, then spray a good coat again, this will be a fantastic finish, for a deeper shine consider using a top clear coat aswell,
check out some of my other posts, including the roll cab top box from 1947 , snap on, which i brush painted ,using a traditional technique,
cheers,
get some pictures up,

 

[kc-steve]

I haven't done any piano hinges but have done some restoration work. If it was me I wouldn't use a rattle can unless you are really good at it because it will likely show overspray streaks and that sort of thing depends on the color. Black shows imperfections worse than lighter colors.

But after stripping the paint and wiping down the metal with solvent making sure all oil and other chemicals are removed, then I would suggest a self-etching primer, then cover with a filler primer. Sand it in steps of course grit (maybe 240 grit) up to 400 grit, or higher if you want a nicer finish coat of paint. Some people like to use different primer colors so you can see where first coat begins to show thru. Proper preparation is the key to a nice finish coat.

Be careful with Rustoleum because it will 'alligator' (lift) on ya if you paint a second coat of color before the previous coat dries. After that then you can add a clear coat if ya want and then use a fine sandpaper like 1000 grit or higher before second coat of clear, actually between all coats is better. That should look like a car's finish when done. But like I said, I would prefer a paint gun though.

READ THE CAN'S INSTRUCTIONS though because you could cause paint imperfections otherwise. Waiting for it to dry between coats is the biggest problem with rattle cans I think. Good luck.

Steve

 

[kissmeimgerman]

@Billy and KC thanks for the tips! I also would like to restore some boxes

 

[AL`]

There are some rattle cans that have good spray nozzles which spray more like a gun. They are much better than the typical nozzle. One caution on rustoleum paint. The solid colors tend to cure soft. By that I mean, if you take your thumb nail and press into the paint, even after it has fully cured, you can make an indentation. Don't know if others have ever noticed this. I painted some cast iron casters on my shop crane (after derusting, prepping and priming). Even weeks later I could make an indentation in the paint pressing it with my thumbnail.

Incidentally, it's been a lot of years since I did this, but I once went to a Sherwin Williams store to match paint for some interior restoration of an old truck. You can have paint mixed/matched and put in aerosol cans with the good nozzle. It will be more expensive than buying at the store, but you can spec your paint exactly how you want it. My recollection is it wasn't that expensive to do, and it's a nice option for occasional projects which aren't large in scale.

 

[kc-steve]

There are some rattle cans that have good spray nozzles which spray more like a gun. They are much better than the typical nozzle. One caution on rustoleum paint. The solid colors tend to cure soft. By that I mean, if you take your thumb nail and press into the paint, even after it has fully cured, you can make an indentation. Don't know if others have ever noticed this. I painted some cast iron casters on my shop crane (after derusting, prepping and priming). Even weeks later I could make an indentation in the paint pressing it with my thumbnail. . . .

The spray can nozzles at best are not as good as the worst paint gun nozzle . . . not to mention your fingers get sore. But the control of thinners and reducers used in a paint gun means you also have better control over the drying time in the current ambient conditions. It also flows better when it hits the surface, less likely have overspray streaks. In fact, when painting with 2-stage paint for paint guns, you would need to put the second coat or clear coat on BEFORE it completely dries in 24-hours and this gives you better surface adhesion between coats. If you tried doing that with a rattle can you would likely ruin the paint job when it alligatored (like an alligators skin).

And since it is enamel I think most Rustoleum products say it takes at least 30-days to get a COMPLETE cure on the paint. So I would even suggest waiting that amount of time before putting into normal use. If you allow it to cure properly basic enamel is some tuff stuff though.

Steve

 

[kissmeimgerman]

Question..What do I do about decals that are not riveted on? Cover? or just try to stay around it?

 

[kc-steve]

Question..What do I do about decals that are not riveted on? Cover? or just try to stay around it?

Some people CAREFULLY use a heat gun and scraper to remove decals. I haven't tried it though.

 

[930dreamer]

Make sure to wipe down with prep-sol or mineral spirits prior to priming. This will remove any dirt/sanding dust etc.

 

[kissmeimgerman]

Some people CAREFULLY use a heat gun and scraper to remove decals. I haven't tried it though.

Thanks!

 

[AL`]

The spray can nozzles at best are not as good as the worst paint gun nozzle . . . not to mention your fingers get sore.

Spray guns are certainly better. But the OP said he was going to use a rattle can, so my post was geared towards informing him that not all spray can nozzles are equal. There is a world of difference between the best and worst spray can nozzles in terms of the spray patterns and comfort. No need for sore fingers anymore and I have certainly been there/done that . The nozzles on the cans I had from Sherwin Williams actually had a pattern approximating that of a gun (a narrow, vertical oval shaped pattern, not round), although it couldn't be adjusted obviously. My rustoleum cans have very wide, comfortable nozzles and they spray smoothly, but their pattern is not like a spray gun's though.

 

[JimDon]

try some of the rustoleum hammered finishes. they hide your imperfections much better than normal colors. i like the silver and black, but the green is great too.

 

[kc-steve]

try some of the rustoleum hammered finishes. they hide your imperfections much better than normal colors. i like the silver and black, but the green is great too.

Yeah me too, that "Verde Green" is close to Wilton's color and almost exact match for Grizzly's machine tools.

Steve

 

[kc-steve]

Here's a Wilton I did recently using Rustoleum's hammered Verde Green. Needless to say, my finger didn't get sore on this project.

Steve

 

[aroncornell]

Thanks for all the help and input guys. The first box i plan on doing is an old craftsman, with the original paint that is like that hammertone paint, so I actually might use that, just only with the gray color though. When using the hammered paint, do you sand that, and how many coats do you use?

 

[flyingblind]

Here is one I did
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=114739

 

[ZRX61]

Painting the piano hinge:
Open the lid all the way & spray the inside of the hinge. Then close the lid & spray the outside of the hinge... or vice versa.. & ya may want to let one side dry before spraying the other.

 

[Vinko]

I've restored boxes -- but mainly focused on getting them up to speed with straightening, sheet metal, and the rest.

I'm not great with a spray can. I did like the Wurth black paint I used. It was expensive (about $15) and the clear coat was about the same maybe more, but it's really held up in a somewhat harsh environment.

Like eveyrone else suggests, prep is everything.

I think sand blast and powdercoat is the way to go if you really want to go all out, but I admire those who've got the skills with the rattle can.

I do like the old red patina on Snap Ons. I've got a KR59a that I left alone. I really like color and the aging and the character it has.

 

[spongerich]

I can't find the link, but I saw a page where a guy did a motorcycle with rattle cans and it looked amazing.

He had 2 cans and a couple of nozzles. He kept one can in hot water and switched cans every few minutes as they cooled down. He kept the spare nozzles in a little jar of thinner and changed them every 30 sec or so. Claimed that this kept everything flowing smoothly and evenly.

I've had pretty good luck with the hammertone paints. You need to put them on a little heavier than a regular finish, but they do hide the minor imperfections well.

For stripping, you can leave the old paint if it's stuck well and doesn't have too many chips or a million uneven coats. If you need to strip it, Aircraft stripper is the fastest and easiest thing to use... it's nasty stuff though, so use a mask, put on goggles, wear a condom, etc...

 

[Stuart in MN]

Incidentally, it's been a lot of years since I did this, but I once went to a Sherwin Williams store to match paint for some interior restoration of an old truck. You can have paint mixed/matched and put in aerosol cans with the good nozzle.

I can't find the link, but I saw a page where a guy did a motorcycle with rattle cans and it looked amazing.

I painted this motorcycle (a '68 Benelli) using spray cans I got from a local auto body supply house. I bought a quart of automotive paint and they put it in the aerosol cans for me. As I remember, one quart filled about six spray cans; it cost more than Krylon or Rustoleum but not that much more, so for an occasional project it's a good way to go.

 

[Blue Gator Six]

Question..What do I do about decals that are not riveted on? Cover? or just try to stay around it?

What I would do is take a picture of the decals and take measurments of the decal as well then take it to a local sign shop and have them reproduce it. I have done this several times and they turn out awesome.