Questions about shed floor.

[Filterless]

Looking for a little help on a proposed project. Suggestions welcome.

I intent to build a 10'x12' shed, my area only requires a building permit for structures over 200 square feet so non will be needed.

I know I will need pressure treated lumber for the floor, but there seems to be debate over the plywood thickness and if it needs to be treated also.
I am disabled, on a fixed income, but I want something that will withstand whatever I throw at it while fitting a budget (or monthly investment).

Right now my only concern is the floor, seems to be unanimous among that the flooring IS the most important thing to get right the first time.

I decided to go with 2x4 joists because I will need to build a ramp to it and want to keep it as short as possible and this shed must be built above ground other than some minor leveling. Not my property.

Could you tell me if this is close to right and/or make suggestions for changes and the plywood needed?

Will I need to anchor this?

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Forgive the imperfections, first time using SketchUp.

 

[sierradmax]

Typically you would install ply perpendicular to the joists but in a small application, you're fine. Besides, I see cribbing installed to avoid unsupported plywood edges. You'll need 4 sheets of plywood. Definitely want 3/4". For $10 more a sheet ($40 total), yes, PT ply is worth it IMO.

 

[kd3pc]

The builder I work for uses a "special" plywood/composite for subfloor in his houses, not sure what it costs, but it is warranted. Check out advantech stuff...pricey, that is what we use in the houses we do, glue it and nail..

I would use, and have used .75" plywood, the regular stuff. However I splurged on some epoxy and coated all the edges and both sides before putting it down. Was quite a bit cheaper than pressure treated, and please be aware there are now "several" kinds of PT...those for ground contact, those for above ground use and ....a couple of others. Price gets higher as the wood gets closer to the ground. Even the ground contact stuff is not what it used to be.

Were it me, I would compare the cost of .75" and .5" plywood and see which was cheaper one .75" or two .5" panels. I would also use some construction adhesive and spend a few dollars extra on coated or galvanized nails or screws.

I would not use generic OSB, as it will get damp/wet and not last long at all. I would also lay a layer of hardware cloth on the joist to urge critters to live elsewhere...I did that on some sheds years ago, and they are still rodent/groundhog free, 15 years later...

best of luck, and be safe, it is tough enough to be disabled with out getting hurt doing the things you love to do.

 

[Jlbc212]

I used 3/4" pressure treated plywood on my shed floor. It has held up well, even the section by the overhead door. That portion of the plywood is always exposed to the weather on the north side of the shed where the sun never directly shines.

 

[Cyberbear]

I once put up a Sears 10 x 10 steel shed on top of a floor with redwood 4 x 4s covered with 3/4" plywood. It worked well and lasted many years until I gave it away. I was able to easily move the shed by prying up one end and putting peeler cores underneath, which allowed me to roll it by myself.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

Instead of wasting money on all that extra material for support just go with 2X6's (#2). They will clear span the 10' with a 30/10/360@ 16"o/c- plenty for a shed. Double the rim joist and support at the corners and mid-span. It doesn't even have to be pressure treated- as long as its a minimum of 6" above ground. The load points can be CMU's with a piece of PT or flashing.

And the plywood could be just 5/8 regular ply. But I'd "splurge" for the 3/4" Advantech. And it should definitely be installed perpendicular to the joists.

 

[Filterless]

I want to thank all of you for the time and effort you put into helping me. I know I need it and I am grateful to receive it.

First, I know this is overkill and if you have suggestions to lower the costs I will be happy to get them. Keep in mind though, statements like “30/10/360@ 16"o/c” or “CMU's “do not come up on a Google search, dumb it down a little for me .You are much more experienced than I so all suggestions are welcome.

Please remember, I want this to handle anything thing I throw at it. Meaning, if I want to pull a motorcycle in and install a trike kit, I want to floor to take the load.

I am limited to what I can do on the property. I wish I could just pour a 6” slab and be done with it but I cannot. So my only other recourse is overkill.

Also, I will have to build a ramp up to it. So keeping it close to the ground while providing a little lift for protection from the elements is another concern (thus the 2x4 joist). But if I “knew” what I was doing, I would not be here asking questions either .

Going by the current design (still open to changes), there is 4” cement block, 3 1/2” 4x4, 3 1/2” 2x4, and 3/4” sheeting. That means I will need a 10' to 12' ramp. I have little over 30' to work.

I am reading your suggestions and tweaking with the design with them in mind, I hope to have this drawn and ready for approval by Monday.

Updated:

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[K'ledgeBldr]

30/10/360- that's a ratio of 30lbs-sq/ft "live load", 10lbs-sq/ft "dead load", and the 360 is the deflection rate. A common ratio for bedrooms/second floor of residential construction.

16"o/c- joists layed out 16inches on-center.

CMU- concrete masonry unit (concrete block)

All of this would probably handle the bike/trike w/o problem. But it may have a bit more deflection- if you're going to store the trike inside, I'd go with the same joists just do 12"o/c instead of 16".

As for the ramp- ADA requires 1"/1' ratio. But do "you" really need that much ramp for this? It would basically mean you'd need 12-14' of ramp.

 

[rsanter]

For what you are building and the fact that it is not your place. Have you though about buying an enclosed trailer? Some will have a ramp that you could install a winch on so it will power up and down for you. When you move you take it with you

Bob

 

[Filterless]

If this is what you meant there is a savings of $40, unless it is high enough to use non-treated plywood, then the savings is near $160 and worth the extra on the ramp.

Will this design be as strong as the previous?

You are correct, I do not need a 1:12 ramp for a shed, I am sure 1:6 will do.

As for Advantech plywood, there are no options for that in my area (not that I can find anyway). The search comes up with OSB/Waferboard.

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[Filterless]

For what you are building and the fact that it is not your place. Have you though about buying an enclosed trailer? Some will have a ramp that you could install a winch on so it will power up and down for you. When you move you take it with you

Bob

Thanks for the suggestion but it is not rental property, my uncle owns the land. This is something for me to get out of the house for a change and tinker lol. He is letting me have it there as long as I want, but he has a few requirements.

He is in construction and knows about this stuff, but his deal is this. I design, draw/plan, purchase all materials, and be there during construction, and he and his crew will provide all labor and tools needed.

Here is the catch, it must be above ground and on skids.

I drew something up on paper and gave it to him a few days ago and he said it would fall down the first storm, to try again. I have been reading everything I can find but there are so many options I figured I would ask a pro, just dont tell him.