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Questions/advice needed mini split install

3rdgendslmech

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mrcooldiy.jpg

mounting location 1.jpg

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mounting location 3.jpg
My Mrcool DIY came in today! I'm so pumped about getting this thing in and hooked up before the cold gets here for good. I went a little over size with the 24K just because for now the ceiling insulation is going to be consisting of sheets of 1/2 EPS board. That back wall and eave wall will be insulated with R19 and OSB in the next week or 2. Hopefully going to be extending in a couple years.
Anyhow, I'm looking for a little advice on where to mount the indoor unit.
Option 1: With 25 of line I dont know just yet if I'll have enough to mount it between the 2 chrome hubcaps. That's the center of the 24' wall and was thinking about wrapping it to the right, along the eave wall and down beside the personnel door, then passing through the wall to the condenser. I kinda like this way better because it'll be set up to blow in the main area of where I'm at when working on vehicles.
Option 2 is in the middle of the eave wall and have maybe 4-6 feet of extra lineset.
The other question is what do you do with the extra lineset if you have it. I glanced through the manual but unless I missed it, they dont really explain what to do if you have extra line. I know it's best to coil it horizontally so the oil can't puddle at the bottom of the lines if it sits without running. Do you just coil it and lay it on top out of harms way?
 
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jjrbus

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Florida
Both the indoor and outdoor unit require service, so need to keep them accessible. Putting the outside unit up a couple feet, may keep it out of harms way and out of snow. I have seen a couple options on linesets and from what I read coiling can cause the oil to puddle and cause problems.

I liked the serpentine method and went with that, the coil lines for the inside and outside units is in a serpentine style. HTH
 

Mike.VA

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Virginia (Lake Anna)
Been wanting to put a MiniSplit in mine for a few years. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Keep us posted with lots of pics.
Good Luck
 

dcg9381

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Austin, TX
I dont understand your shop layout, but right at the height of your lights seems right to me. There's a metal mount with those units. I'd probably bring a 2x6 across your vertical poles and build a "mount location" at light level or above.

Personally, I don't set the position of the compressor until the indoor units are set and I've run the lines.

As indicated above, you can circle the lineset (carefully, there is likely a spring tool or copper pipe bender to do this). Alternately, I'm getting to the point where I'm ready to cut and flare these myself.

At this point, I (personally) recommend the gaskets that you can get on amazon for the flares... IE - FlareSeal - some will disagree, but I'm using these going forward.
 

Kaizen

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New England
I wrapped about ten feet in two coils hanging behind my minisplit on the wall mounted flatform. So it’s vertical. Been there five years and zero issues. Goes without use all winter for five months. The whole horizontal vs vertical has equal opinions from what I read.


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Jackfre

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Don't locate the evap more than 8' off the floor. It throws the stat off if to high. Do not coil the excess line set. It traps oil. Lay it off in a serpentine fashion. Have to go trick or treating. see ya!
 
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3rdgendslmech

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Don't locate the evap more than 8' off the floor. It throws the stat off if to high. Do not coil the excess line set. It traps oil. Lay it off in a serpentine fashion. Have to go trick or treating. see ya!

Yeah, the evap is gonna be set between 7-8 feet up. So I've got a question about serpentine method. Can you do this inside? A squiggly lineset running on the outside of metal rib panels is probably gonna be a PITA. If I was inside I could put a cabinet in front of it.
 

Jackfre

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Yeah, the evap is gonna be set between 7-8 feet up. So I've got a question about serpentine method. Can you do this inside? A squiggly lineset running on the outside of metal rib panels is probably gonna be a PITA. If I was inside I could put a cabinet in front of it.

Yes, it can go inside. Depending upon how much extra line set you have you might want to fabricate that flat on the floor. The tubing work hardens about instantly, so be careful.
 

Jackfre

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Yeah, the evap is gonna be set between 7-8 feet up. So I've got a question about serpentine method. Can you do this inside? A squiggly lineset running on the outside of metal rib panels is probably gonna be a PITA. If I was inside I could put a cabinet in front of it.

Yes, it can go inside. Depending upon how much extra line set you have you might want to fabricate that flat on the floor. The tubing work hardens about instantly, so be careful. You might consider stripping the insulation off, making the bends and sliding it back on.
 
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3rdgendslmech

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Yes, it can go inside. Depending upon how much extra line set you have you might want to fabricate that flat on the floor. The tubing work hardens about instantly, so be careful. You might consider stripping the insulation off, making the bends and sliding it back on.

What do you mean it hardens instantly? I was under the impression the lines where somewhat flexible. Like after the refrigerant has been flowing through the lines? I unpacked everything the other night to inspect for damage but I didn't pull back the cover over the lines to see if they're copper or like a stainless type of braided line.
 
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brewchief

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What do you mean it hardens instantly? I was under the impression the lines where somewhat flexible. Like after the refrigerant has been flowing through the lines? I unpacked everything the other night to inspect for damage but I didn't pull back the cover over the lines to see if they're copper or like a stainless type of braided line.
Each time you bend the copper it gets harder, trying to bend and rebend a section it can get easier to kink each time. Just try to plan it where you can bend it to its final shape the first time.

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Jackfre

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Each time you bend the copper it gets harder, trying to bend and rebend a section it can get easier to kink each time. Just try to plan it where you can bend it to its final shape the first time.

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:thumbup: You roll it out and it is so smooth and nice. You feed it through the wall and try to make another bend and you have to be godzilla in heat to get it. I will put a spring bender on the tubing and just slide it along the pipe for support and to prevent kinks.
 
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3rdgendslmech

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That's about all I've gotten done since Sunday Monday afternoon. I went with 2x4 studs and R19 Batts and saved a few bucks. It's covered with 7/16 OSB. Hoping by the end of the week to have this wall finished and start installing the unit.
I think for the outside unit I'm going to use deck blocks and build a covered frame to get it up off the ground and keep rain and snow off of it.
 

fitter30

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If your only goaaing to have 4-6' of extra line just move the condenser over there won't be enough line to loop it.
 
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3rdgendslmech

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If your only goaaing to have 4-6' of extra line just move the condenser over there won't be enough line to loop it.

Yeah I talked to a tech at Ingram's and he said something similar. If you've got less than 7-8 feed left try to adjust things
I also asked what they recommend about storing the extra line and he said coiled vertically behind the condenser is just fine
 
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3rdgendslmech

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Outside pad is poured. Fusible disconnect is mounted and wiringing is almost done. This the mock up for the lineset route. I've got to finish that last little bit of wall, move the light switches over closer to the door so they're out of the way. Then I figure I'd have to serpentine about 6 feet of line to take up the slack before running it through the wall and outside. I've got a lineset cover for the straight run, but I'm going to build a 30"x2" box the keep the vertical run safe from damage. So FYI...the 2 lines, the larger line is actually a steel braided line and the smaller line is made up of 2, 1/8" lines joined about 8" from the end of the line.
 
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3rdgendslmech

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Just about. It's hooked up and I let it run for about an hour. Brought the temp up from 43 to 53 in about 20-30 minutes without any type of ceiling. So I imagine once I put in some foam board for a ceiling it'll get warmer faster and stay in.
Also need to secure the lineset with some 2" EMT clamps. I'll take and post some pics tomorrow
 
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3rdgendslmech

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Here's some of the finished install pics. Inside still has to be dealt with but overall the install took maybe 4-6 hours.
 

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