Questions on Sheetrock and strapping

[robs400]

Looking for some input on required sheetrock for code. Being that I knocked a hole in my basement wall and put in a garage door, I technically need to treat the area as a garage space and would like to sheet rock the space to code.

I'll attach a pic...because people like pics and it seems to help when starting a new thread.



The space is currently further along than shown, but this is the only pic I have of the walls and ceiling I am talking about. The wall in the background that has a door on it I plan on sheetrocking with 2 layers of 5/8" thk. board. I believe that is the code requirement.

Does the first layer need a coat of mud and tape? Or can it simply be hung and then put the second layer right on top?

The ceiling? I have been told that it only needs one layer of 5/8" thk. I do not understand why 2 would be required on a wall but not on a ceiling tho? (there is living space above it).

I did the ceiling in my garage that has no living space above it and attached the sheetrock right to the bottom of the trusses. I was told for the area in the pic tho that I should run strapping first and then screw the sheetrock to that. What exactly does the strapping do? If its spaced the same distance as the floor joists currently are but running the other direction, I'm not seeing what its purpose is?

Thanks for the input!

 

[BB-63]

hey,

just drywalled my last home before I sold it. I've never heard of multiple layers of drywall being required or even attempted. I would really make sure its required bc it will be a huge PIA

 

[brownbagg]

the purpose of drywal is fire resistance but its not practiacl in a garage/shop 3/8 plywood all that needed,

 

[blkhonda1991]

the purpose of drywal is fire resistance but its not practiacl in a garage/shop 3/8 plywood all that needed,

may not be practical for garage/shop use but it is code almost everywhere if said garage is attached

not sure who told you to use strapping but code here atleast requires 1 layer of 5/8 type x drywall between garage and living space so that would include walls/celings.

 

[readhead]

Typical is one layer of 5/8" type-X, fire taped on any walls adjoining living space. The big problem is the duct. All of the duct will have to be enclosed and you cannot use that system to heat the garage. The reason is so exhaust fumes cannot be sucked into the heating system and dumped into the house. The beam and columns need to be rocked also. The door needs to be fire rated and have a closer. Straping is not necessary.

 

[robs400]

Perhaps code is different in my area, I'm almost positive the walls need two layers. The existing garage has 2 on the shared wall with the house.

I have an electrician buddy putting some boxes in right now and he was asking about the distance he needs to have them sticking out which is why this conversation came up.

I do not plan on heating this space with the existing ducts...I probably will not heat it at all as it really does not get terribly cold in there. I plan on investigating HVAC a bit and moving all that ductwork up as tight to the ceiling as possible and getting rid of the flex ducts. Once that is done I will frame out and sheetrock accordingly. A pain - yes, but considering what I have done in this room already to get to the point that its at I'm sure I will be up for it.

 

[blkhonda1991]

Perhaps code is different in my area, I'm almost positive the walls need two layers. The existing garage has 2 on the shared wall with the house.

I have an electrician buddy putting some boxes in right now and he was asking about the distance he needs to have them sticking out which is why this conversation came up.

I do not plan on heating this space with the existing ducts...I probably will not heat it at all as it really does not get terribly cold in there. I plan on investigating HVAC a bit and moving all that ductwork up as tight to the ceiling as possible and getting rid of the flex ducts. Once that is done I will frame out and sheetrock accordingly. A pain - yes, but considering what I have done in this room already to get to the point that its at I'm sure I will be up for it.

just looked up mass code...requires not less than 5/8 type x and a 20 min rated door

 

[Tim The Tool Man]

Agreed, you will only need a single layer of 5/8. You will need to cover everything and all joints will need to be taped and mudded. The idea is to make it air tight (carbon monoxide) and fire resistant. The door from the basement to the house will also need to have a fire rating.

Strapping would only be needed to level the ceiling and/or to retain the insulation...

 

[tcianci]

Remodel contractor in MA here. The guys are right, 1 layer of 5/8 firecode sheetrock is all you need between the garage and the living space. Strapping is your call. What you do need is a 6 inch curb at the door into the house. That is to say that the floor needs to be 6 inches below the bottom of the door, thus making the vertical section of wall under the door into your curb. The purpose is to keep exhaust gasses from going under the door with a running vehicle in the garage. Some inspectors around here require a self closing hinge on the door as well and the code calls for a 20 minute rating. Thankfully just about any steel entry qualifies for a 20 minute rating. Actual rated doors have a UL tag affixed to the edge of the door or the jamb itself. Lots of Depots stock fire rated doors, you probably won't have an issue with what you've got there.

The columns you have are steel encased concrete "Lally" columns, they will nor require any further fire rating preparation. As was previously mentioned, The ducting needs to be enclosed with the fire rated sheetrock as well and you can't use that heat for the garage.

Although it can't be seen due to insulation there should be fire blocking in each bay of floor joists above the beam as well.

 

[robs400]

tcianci - thank you for the input! Looks like I'm going to go with 1 layer of 5/8" type X rock for the ceiling. The wall and electrical panel is already setup for two layers, which wont be that bad considering its a wall, and most of it is concrete.

I need to figure out how to move the ductwork correctly, and then I will box that in and start the sheetrock.

What is the "fireblocking" in each bay above the insulation that you are talking about? I will have to take a look at that, as the insulation was already all up when I moved in.

Regarding the 6" curb...I couldnt really do that in this application due to the depth of the footings that were already existing.

 

[p_mori7]

as stated above, strapping can be used to 'level out' the cieling.

up here, we use strapping on all exterior walls and the cieling to add an air space behind the sheetrock, and before the vapor barrier, because it acts as extra insulation.

 

[Engineer61]

Fire Blocking is simply blocking the joist cavity so a fire can't easily travel through from the garage to the house. For 2x10 joists you usually can use another piece of 2x10 to block the openings. Some places require a covering of something that won't burn like concrete tile board, this is a local code extension sometimes adopted.
I've always understood the 6 inch curb requirement is to prevent gasoline from going under the door into the house if you ever have an accident with a car's fuel tank and dump like 5-20 gallons on your garage floor - its best to make absolutely sure that the gas can't get into the house.