First...I have a pancake compressor that I was planning to use for the locks. Do I need anything special on hand when the installer arrives or does the compressor hook up directly to the lift? Are there any additional safety devices I need for the compressor/lines?
*If your air line's quick disconnect is a univeral fitting then you will have no issues. Otherwise, go buy another male fitting, just like the ones that you've been connecting to your other air tools, and use that on the air lock control on your lift. Also, you do not need a lot of air for the air locks, so set the compressor's air regulator to something like 50 PSI (or less actually).
My next question is regarding the RJ-45. Is this powered by the hydraulics or the compressor?
*This is an air over hydraulic process. Meaning that by hooking up your compressor's air line to it and then depressing the switch down, you are basically building up air pressure within the hydraulic fluid containment area. Eventually enough air is built up in this enclosed area and it in turn forces the hydraulic fluid to want to leave the area and travel in to the hydraulic ram (as long as you keep the switch pressed down). The process reduces the need/cost/weight of a dedicated hydraulic pump motor.
I saw mention of an airline kit but am unclear of how this gets hooked up and whether I have what I need to have it properly installed?
*The kit is Model #AK-14 and is around $230. If you are going to be using your RJ-45 a LOT, then I would encourage buying it. Otherwise, just disconnect your air line from the HD-9 and plug it in to the RJ-45 as needed. You'll find that most of the time, you are going to raise your car on the RJ-45 just once, work on your car's brakes or whatever, and then use the RJ-45 to bring it back down. I think you would get more use from the $230 by buying a nice ceiling mounted air hose reel. I have a BendPak/Ranger 50' ceiling mounted reel and I love it. I can even pull it all the way out of the garage onto the driveway to fill tires with air. Plus it makes it easy to use my air tools anywhere around my HD-9.
It also appears that it requires some regulator and other safety devices - where do I find these things to purchase?
*You can find regulators (which restrict and set the max amount of air traveling through the line) anywhere that air compressors are sold (i.e. Sears, Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, etc.).
Finally, I am having a 220v 30amp circuit installed in my garage this weekend. I am using 10/2 guage wire for this and assume I do not need 10/3 for the motor hookup. Is that correct? Based on some threads I found - it appears you can use either.
*I actually went a little overkill and used 8awg conductors for my run because I had a really long run from my basement panel to the garage (almost 50' + I built a 40' extension cord for future use too). For a short run 10awg is fine. Remember that 10awg is the minimum that you can use. No harm in using thicker wire, especially if you also bought a caster kit and now have a 25-50' extension cord that you plan to use.
Any general information around these topics would be greatly appreciated.
*The RJ-45 already comes filled with hydraulic fluid so you don't need to add any to it. Also, to make it easier to shift the orientation of your RJ45 around, as needed, go buy yourself a furniture dolly (about $10 at Harbor Freight). This way you can lower the HD-9,and while keeping the furniture dolly under the RJ-45, it will raise the RJ-45 off of the HD-9 tracks. You can then very easily turn it around or even wheel it away from the lift. I think the RJ-45 is 200+ lbs so it's plenty heavy and awkward to move by itself - invest in a furniture dolly.
For your lift, ATF (automatic ****** fluid) is fine and will be cheaper than buying hydraulic fluid.
Make sure to bleed the air out of the big hydraulic cylinder on your HD-9. Read the directions and get familiar with the process. It's very simple. You simply hit the button to raise the lift, while also pulling on the lever to lower the lift. Do this a few times, as needed to let all of the air out.
Build your own drip trays out of 3/4" plywood or MDF. Mine are made out of MDF and have held up fine. At 36" apart, they won't really sag if you go with thick sheets. These "drip trays" can also be used to hold your oil drain pan in place and hold tools as needed.
*Down the road, consider buying a jacking tray. Depending on the type of vehicles you have, you might not need one, so check that out first. You can simply raise the front (or rear) of your car using the RJ-45 and see if you can put jack stands under the factory designated areas. If the correct placement allows the jackstands to sit firmly on the ramps, then you are fine. Otherwise, buy a tray so you can do tire rotations or brake bleeding at home.
There's a lot of folks on here that have a BendPak at home. If you get stuck on anything, or have more questions, just ask on this site and someone will help you out. You bought an awesome lift and will wonder how you ever got along without it.
Finally, show us all a pic with a car on it. Best of luck!