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Questions regarding BendPak HD-9ST

k_kush

New member
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Messages
3
I am awaiting delivery and installation of a BendPak HD-9ST and RJ-45 rolling jack and had a few questions that I could not find answers to in the forum...

First...I have a pancake compressor that I was planning to use for the locks. Do I need anything special on hand when the installer arrives or does the compressor hook up directly to the lift? Are there any additional safety devices I need for the compressor/lines?

My next question is regarding the RJ-45. Is this powered by the hydraulics or the compressor? I saw mention of an airline kit but am unclear of how this gets hooked up and whether I have what I need to have it properly installed? It also appears that it requires some regulator and other safety devices - where do I find these things to purchase?

Finally, I am having a 220v 30amp circuit installed in my garage this weekend. I am using 10/2 guage wire for this and assume I do not need 10/3 for the motor hookup. Is that correct? Based on some threads I found - it appears you can use either.

Any general information around these topics would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you for the assistance. The new Racedeck flooring goes in this weekend! Lift next week!
 
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ovilla

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Joined
Dec 18, 2005
Messages
2,342
Location
Plainfield, IL
First...I have a pancake compressor that I was planning to use for the locks. Do I need anything special on hand when the installer arrives or does the compressor hook up directly to the lift? Are there any additional safety devices I need for the compressor/lines?

*If your air line's quick disconnect is a univeral fitting then you will have no issues. Otherwise, go buy another male fitting, just like the ones that you've been connecting to your other air tools, and use that on the air lock control on your lift. Also, you do not need a lot of air for the air locks, so set the compressor's air regulator to something like 50 PSI (or less actually).

My next question is regarding the RJ-45. Is this powered by the hydraulics or the compressor?

*This is an air over hydraulic process. Meaning that by hooking up your compressor's air line to it and then depressing the switch down, you are basically building up air pressure within the hydraulic fluid containment area. Eventually enough air is built up in this enclosed area and it in turn forces the hydraulic fluid to want to leave the area and travel in to the hydraulic ram (as long as you keep the switch pressed down). The process reduces the need/cost/weight of a dedicated hydraulic pump motor.

I saw mention of an airline kit but am unclear of how this gets hooked up and whether I have what I need to have it properly installed?

*The kit is Model #AK-14 and is around $230. If you are going to be using your RJ-45 a LOT, then I would encourage buying it. Otherwise, just disconnect your air line from the HD-9 and plug it in to the RJ-45 as needed. You'll find that most of the time, you are going to raise your car on the RJ-45 just once, work on your car's brakes or whatever, and then use the RJ-45 to bring it back down. I think you would get more use from the $230 by buying a nice ceiling mounted air hose reel. I have a BendPak/Ranger 50' ceiling mounted reel and I love it. I can even pull it all the way out of the garage onto the driveway to fill tires with air. Plus it makes it easy to use my air tools anywhere around my HD-9.

It also appears that it requires some regulator and other safety devices - where do I find these things to purchase?

*You can find regulators (which restrict and set the max amount of air traveling through the line) anywhere that air compressors are sold (i.e. Sears, Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, etc.).

Finally, I am having a 220v 30amp circuit installed in my garage this weekend. I am using 10/2 guage wire for this and assume I do not need 10/3 for the motor hookup. Is that correct? Based on some threads I found - it appears you can use either.

*I actually went a little overkill and used 8awg conductors for my run because I had a really long run from my basement panel to the garage (almost 50' + I built a 40' extension cord for future use too). For a short run 10awg is fine. Remember that 10awg is the minimum that you can use. No harm in using thicker wire, especially if you also bought a caster kit and now have a 25-50' extension cord that you plan to use.

Any general information around these topics would be greatly appreciated.

*The RJ-45 already comes filled with hydraulic fluid so you don't need to add any to it. Also, to make it easier to shift the orientation of your RJ45 around, as needed, go buy yourself a furniture dolly (about $10 at Harbor Freight). This way you can lower the HD-9,and while keeping the furniture dolly under the RJ-45, it will raise the RJ-45 off of the HD-9 tracks. You can then very easily turn it around or even wheel it away from the lift. I think the RJ-45 is 200+ lbs so it's plenty heavy and awkward to move by itself - invest in a furniture dolly.

For your lift, ATF (automatic ****** fluid) is fine and will be cheaper than buying hydraulic fluid.

Make sure to bleed the air out of the big hydraulic cylinder on your HD-9. Read the directions and get familiar with the process. It's very simple. You simply hit the button to raise the lift, while also pulling on the lever to lower the lift. Do this a few times, as needed to let all of the air out.

Build your own drip trays out of 3/4" plywood or MDF. Mine are made out of MDF and have held up fine. At 36" apart, they won't really sag if you go with thick sheets. These "drip trays" can also be used to hold your oil drain pan in place and hold tools as needed.

*Down the road, consider buying a jacking tray. Depending on the type of vehicles you have, you might not need one, so check that out first. You can simply raise the front (or rear) of your car using the RJ-45 and see if you can put jack stands under the factory designated areas. If the correct placement allows the jackstands to sit firmly on the ramps, then you are fine. Otherwise, buy a tray so you can do tire rotations or brake bleeding at home.

There's a lot of folks on here that have a BendPak at home. If you get stuck on anything, or have more questions, just ask on this site and someone will help you out. You bought an awesome lift and will wonder how you ever got along without it.

Finally, show us all a pic with a car on it. Best of luck!
 
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k_kush

New member
Joined
Mar 20, 2010
Messages
3
Thank you for the quick and detailed reply...

One more question...does the motor on the BendPak require 10/3 wiring with the neutral or is it simply 2 hots and a ground? I've already purchased the 10/2 wire and just want to confirm before the electrician comes tomorrow to put in the line.

I will definitely post pictures of everything when it is done. This site has been invaluable for both the lift and flooring information.
 

ket-tek

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2009
Messages
1,289
Mine just had two hots and a ground in it. I ran 10/2 with a 30 amp breaker and receptical. The motor plate says it is 2hp and 18 amps, and the manual states to have at least a 25amp breaker.. I couldn't find a 25amp breaker for my brand of electric panel, bendpak told me using a 30amp breaker would be fine. I'm also going to add an on/off disconnect switch on the column above the motor soon, just for fun..

Your gonna love having the lift. And I finally used the rj-45 a couple times last weekend to do some brakes, and it was awesome.. I had a hard time choking down the price for it, expecially since it's gone up a couple hundred since I started looking at them 2-3 years ago, but after using it I feel it was well worth cost.

Good Luck!
 
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k_kush

New member
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Mar 20, 2010
Messages
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Thanks! I figured 10/2 would be fine, but would hate to find out later that I needed 10/3.

Do you have the Airline Kit for the RJ-45? I didn't order it with my lift, but wondering if I should?

I was hoping to start putting down the RaceDeck flooring today, but its now snowing here again...argh.

Thanks to everyone for the quick responses. This is going to be fun!
 

ket-tek

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 28, 2009
Messages
1,289
No I didn't get the airline kit. I didn't think I would be using the RJ everyday as the 4post is largely used for double parking, $225 was a bit pricey for a hose and coupler. And since there is no need to leave the hose connected and be in the way all the whole time.. I just plug the hose to it, lift the car up and then unplug it and use it for my tools, then when done plug it in let the car down..
 

katmat

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
91
#10 copper is fine. Just make sure that the cable has a 3rd wire for the ground! For the motor, you do not need a neutral, but make sure you have a ground wire!
Matt Murphy
 

ket-tek

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Joined
Jan 28, 2009
Messages
1,289
#10 copper is fine. Just make sure that the cable has a 3rd wire for the ground! For the motor, you do not need a neutral, but make sure you have a ground wire!
Matt Murphy


That's what 10/2 means, 2 insulated conductors and a bare copper ground.

10/3 would be 2 hots, 1 neutral, and a bare ground.
 

katmat

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
91
That's what 10/2 means, 2 insulated conductors and a bare copper ground.

10/3 would be 2 hots, 1 neutral, and a bare ground.

Not some of the older cable! & you never know what your getting form a supplier or flea market.

Alot of houses in the 60's were built w/ 12/2 & 14/2 & no ground &
in the 70's some homes were built w/ aluminum wire so #10 is not good for 30 amps.
 
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