QUICK!!! Framing/code question

[ScaldedDog]

I'm building a compressor room in my new garage today and have a quick question. Keep in mind that nothing is yet drywalled or insulated, just framed out on the inside. My question:

When butting a non-weight bearing wall up against a weight bearing wall, but between 2 of the 16"oc studs, what must I do behind the edge of the new interior wall? In other words, must I run new studs in the weight bearing wall's cavity for the new wall to **** up against, or must I just provide a nailing surface for the future drywall?

I'm concerned about flunking an upcoming rough frame inspection, so I need to figure out what will pass muster with the inspectors.

Thanks!!

Mark

 

[Kevin54]

No more than what a couple of 2x's cost, add them in so you have something to fasten the drywall and the adjoining wall to. You are only talking $4-6 for them. If you are going to 'rock the main wall first, then the adjoining wall should have something to nail to other than the top and bottom plate. You could do it, but you will end up getting cracks in the corners.

 

[charlie_nj]

If your butting up to an exterior load bearing wall, the most energy efficient framing method is this. It allows you to get the most insulation in the stud bay.

 

[e-tek]

Since neither of the above replies actually answered your question - that of how to frame the non-load wall for the inspectors, no, you need not add studding INTO the load wall. You can attach any interior walls after the fact and they are not subject to code restrictions (not here anyways!).
Hope that helps!

 

[tfi racing]

If your butting up to an exterior load bearing wall, the most energy efficient framing method is this. It allows you to get the most insulation in the stud bay.

That method is a good one,the other way is to build a 2x "ladder" between the studs and fasten the new wall to that.Don't forget your vapour barrier behind,that is all the inspector might care about on a partition wall.

 

[ScaldedDog]

Thanks guys!!!! I opted for the wider board in back option, as it seemed a little easier than the ladder idea.

'Preciate the help!!

Mark