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Quick paver question

Rosco

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Jan 4, 2009
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1,140
Location
South Georgia
I am getting ready to lay about 800 sq ft of pavers for a patio project. All prep is done, pavers are 4x8 concrete pavers from a reputable manufacturer (60 mm thick).

I bought all of my materials from a local landscape company, and have followed their instructions. One thing I am confused about is running a plate tamper after setting the pavers. I cannot find a rental place that sells the pad that goes under the tamper. I was told that I could run the tamper without the pad.

Are there any alternatives? Just do not want to scuff / scratch / crack thousands of dollars worth of materials after so many man-hours.

I am in south Ga. So there is no freezing or heaving issues.

Thanks in advance
 
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csp

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Mar 23, 2010
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Franktown, CO
I've set several thousands of square feet of pavers without ever running a plate compactor over them without issue. The newest project is six years old and hasn't moved in ground that is subject to freeze and thaw.

If you were putting in pavers that vehicles will be driven on my opinion would be different, but I don't see a need for human traffic as long as you have a solid base under the pavers.
 
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Rosco

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South Georgia
I've set several thousands of square feet of pavers without ever running a plate compactor over them without issue. The newest project is six years old and hasn't moved in ground that is subject to freeze and thaw.

If you were putting in pavers that vehicles will be driven on my opinion would be different, but I don't see a need for human traffic as long as you have a solid base under the pavers.


It will only be foot traffic and patio furniture. The base is crusher run that has been tamped 2 different times and is solid.

Thanks for your advice. There will be a 1/8 gap (small protrusions on side of paver) and I plan on using polymeric sand. Hope the tamper is not necessary, but just trying to do it per the paver co and landscape co instructions.
 

2talltim

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Aug 20, 2015
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Not sure of your geographical location but I hope you don't get a lot of freeze and thaw. Because pavers will ALWAYS move during a freeze abd thaw. We had a side walk with pavers and I always took extra steps to be sure it was done right. But like clock work about every other spring i was releveling and re aligning them. Last year I said screw it and poured some concrete. Hated those things.
 

Iron-Iceberg

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Feb 14, 2006
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A-town
Just throw a thick layer of sand on. You will be surprised how much the plate will rattle and not break a paver. Usually the only ones that will break are small cuts. If one breaks just pull it out and replace. No biggie.
 

JimbosGarage

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Jun 5, 2015
Messages
125
We use a vibor plate, It might be the same thing you are referring to as a tamper. We put carpet on the bottom so it doesn't scratch or break the pavers. Works great! Good luck with your project!
 
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Rosco

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South Georgia
Just throw a thick layer of sand on. You will be surprised how much the plate will rattle and not break a paver. Usually the only ones that will break are small cuts. If one breaks just pull it out and replace. No biggie.

Thought about that, but do I us the polymeric sand (that I am using to fill the gaps) if I do it this way?
 

Firebird 1

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Mar 11, 2015
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Maryland
After the pavers are down, spread the sand evenly on top and run the plate tamper over it. It will help the sand settle into the joints and set the pavers in the base. You should have no problems with cracking. As far a marking, I have never had a problem with that either, and I have never used a pad or carpet. When youre done sweep up the excess sand.
 
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Speedster29

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Jul 14, 2014
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Oregon
Just throw a thick layer of sand on. You will be surprised how much the plate will rattle and not break a paver. Usually the only ones that will break are small cuts. If one breaks just pull it out and replace. No biggie.

Agreed. Its takes much force to break a paver set on sand. The first time I installed pavers, some had to be removed periodically to replace with engraved pavers (Fundraiser at a Park). I wanted to buy a tool that is made for removing them but was told by an "Expert" that all you had to do to remove the blank ones was break them with a hammer and pull them out. Since they are in a bed of sand it took a lot of pounding to finally break one (Then really tough to get the pieces out). When I need to pull them now I use a couple jacks and rotohammer, Tapcon anchor and chain. Takes seconds vs 30 min.:)

Never had a problem with marking from the plate compactor, the sand helps it glide over the top.
 

like2wheel

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Oct 29, 2014
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On an as needed basis
After the pavers are down, spread the sand evenly on top and run the plate tamper over it. It will help the sand settle into the joints and set the pavers in the base. You should have no problems with cracking. As far a marking, I have never had a problem with that either, and I have never used a pad or carpet. When youre done sweep up the excess sand.

Same here
 

Iron-Iceberg

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Tip if you use poly sand is make sure the pavers are DRY! If not, the glue in the sand will stick to the surface and make a mess. But poly sand is great. Wide joints will be like you grouted it.
 
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Rosco

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South Georgia
Thanks for the safety tips. I will be using a gray polymeric sand. One reason is for the bonding abilities and another is to bring out the gray in the pavers.

I read the instructions and had to go buy a leaf blower just for this project. They definitely say to get it all off of the "dry" surface or it will discolor the paver and stay there.

After cutting a couple of pavers I did have to go get more dust mask! Might need to break out my paint respirator so I will be wearing protection when applying, thanks again!
 
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Rosco

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South Georgia
Just wanted to follow-up with a completed post. All 4,500 pavers are down. Here is what I learned and thanks to all for the great tips.

- IMO using a tamper (or whatever they are called in your area) makes a huge difference in how the pavers are set into the sand. I would never do another patio without it. It not only sets them, but levels them.
- After spreading the polymeric sand and sweeping it in I tamped it again. A lot of sand was needed after it vibrated into the cracks. Another step I would never skip.
- The polymeric sand is dusty. A quality mask or respirator is mandatory. Use a stiff bristle broom to sweep it in, then collect the leftover and put away for later. IMO a strong leaf blower is a must! Use the leaf blower to get all sand/dust off prior to activating with water. I left a little dust on my garage porch by mistake and had to scrape it off after the water application.
- The tamper did scuff, chip a few pavers (I did not use anything under it), but very minor and they will stay. Again, I would not attempt a paver project without heavily compacting the base and tamping the pavers after install.

Since these photo's I have cleaned up the mess and finished off the landscaping. I will post a few pics later of that. The concrete/rebar you see in the picture is the foundation for my 1/2 wall and outdoor fireplace I am getting ready to build. It will be covered in stacked stone (dry stack). Yes, all rebar is now capped for safety purposes.

First time walking to my garage was awesome :)
 

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theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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SE MI
But like clock work about every other spring i was releveling and re aligning them.

If they were shifting, you did not have a deep enough base or you did not have proper edging. I have a small odd shaped area between my driveway and the foundation plantings on the side of the house. I told the guys who did the pavers I wanted a 12" base because the water running off the driveway need some place to go.

After the dirt was removed, they started with some chunks of concrete from the short walkway they broke up, then 3/4 crushed limestone and finally "slag" (a.k.a "crusher run"). They did multiple passes with a plate compactor. I have had a bit of sinking (less than 1/2") but nothing has moved in well over 10 years.

P.S. I love the look of pavers !
 

staneia

New member
Joined
Jul 12, 2021
Messages
1
Hi everyone...I have just completed my driveway on my own, actually last night, and as a novice I was looking online for information. Towards the end, I knew I needed to tamper the laid unilocking bricks first (highly recommend in some case) before I could use the joint sand and wanted to know if I could just tamper the bricks directly with a metal compactor or would that cause a lot of damage/scratches to the surface. So I found this discussion in including the use of a pad, if available, to be very useful. Gratefully when I went into our local Home Depot, I asked about a pad to put on the compactor's plate and I was told instead they have a different pad - a floor rubber mat (see pix). Eventhough it was small, but it was big enough and did the job so well. The compactor just slid/moved along smoothly on top. SO LOOK OUT FOR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. The only downside because of its size, I had to move section by section, and it took a while, but worthed it. In doing so, I figured that I had to use a wooden plywood as a "stand-by bridge" to rest the compactor in standing position while I moved the mat to the next nearby position...worked well since I didn't want to turn off the machine every time. I applied the joint sand afterwards and I didn't need the rubber mat when compacting and vibrating sand into the joints...sand minimizes the friction and thus scracthes to the bricks' surface! But there's a lot of dusts coming off (worst when blowing off remainder sands) and thus needed to wear a safety mast. Without a mask, I experimented with the rubber mat on my side-paths by putting it right on top of the sand to stop dust during tampering....and it worked! If needed more questions with my experience, reply and I'll be happy to answer them. This is only a way to thank you all for this forum and it helped me, and I also know they'd be someone like myself googling and searching everywhere online for similar information like I did....and hope mine would help as well! Cherios you all.
Compactor Pad.jpg
 
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