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Quick release ratchets?

Al Borland

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Jan 20, 2016
Messages
1,598
I use ratchets almost daily. Don't much care about quick release one way or another.
If I have a lot of nuts/bolts in a couple sizes to deal with, I usually set up several ratchets/sockets so I don't have to keep switching sockets. Harder to misplace a socket on a ratchet than a loose socket.
 
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CJM8515

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Mar 8, 2014
Messages
9,286
Location
NJ
Over the years the only ratchet I ever broke is made by crapsman. i abused the hell out of everything else with no issues. the crapmsna is the only cheapo chinese junk i ever owned and i threw them all out by now.
 

ZenkiS14

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Joined
Mar 24, 2021
Messages
110
Location
MO
Honestly, i prefer QR ratchets and have used them pretty much exclusively for past 20 years, I like the security of it and easy of changing when covered in oil.

Recently got a set of non-QR ratchets from GW though, and havent missed the QR button as much as I had expected.
 

redragoon

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Joined
Jun 12, 2018
Messages
296
Location
Greenville SC
My first full set of tools were the Husky Home Set that I kept in the car. They had QR, but I wasn't using them enough to care. I still keep a set of these in each car, but they don't make this style of ratchet anymore.

Next full socket set was Kobalt that I bought with some Craftsman tools and my first set of Craftsman chests. Their QR was very nice to use, but the ratchet heads were larger and the button tended to get pressed in tight spaces.

I now have a Husky flex QR with their new flush button. I hate it. The release is not quick, the button feels terrible, and it doesn't grab well. These should be avoided.

My current working ratchets are standard Gearwrench. I like that the heads are smaller and the ratchet mechanism is smooth, but I still miss the QR for when I'm doing a routine job with different sockets. I usually switch between 8mm, 10mm, 12mm for most of the fasteners in my maintenance. For these jobs I still want a quick release.

I'm planning to purchase a KTC Nepros QR ratchet in the future. They have versions in standard and compact (1/4 body) with a quick release. Their button is also designed to return to a flush position when a socket is installed.
 

Citation

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Jan 20, 2016
Messages
3,209
Location
Indy
I prefer pear head, chrome handled, QR ratchets yet my go to is a Crescent branded non-QR, round head roto ratchet with a plastic handle.

I think preference as well as concerns about dirt getting into things are the biggest reasons to not buy a QR.

The idea that the anvil is weaker isn't a good reason. The strength of the anvil is in the outside diameter not the center. The difference in torsional strength is something like 3% less due to the hole. If that 3% makes a difference you are already doing something very wrong.... like breaking 14mm bolts with your 1/4 drive ratchet with a cheater bar because it's the only combination that happens to fit and damnit you need to get your car fixed... but that is a pure hypothetical.
 

Kurt4440

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Joined
Jun 3, 2009
Messages
2,427
Location
Western New York
I use ratchets almost daily. Don't much care about quick release one way or another.
If I have a lot of nuts/bolts in a couple sizes to deal with, I usually set up several ratchets/sockets so I don't have to keep switching sockets. Harder to misplace a socket on a ratchet than a loose socket.

This is how I work as well. Additionally, I set up my cordless impact(s) and ratchet(s) with sockets if I have a lot of fasteners to remove. When I stop to change the selectors to tighten I pause for a moment to reflect on Garage Journal.
 

measuredtwice

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Mar 17, 2019
Messages
1,705
Location
USA
I prefer pear head, chrome handled, QR ratchets yet my go to is a Crescent branded non-QR, round head roto ratchet with a plastic handle.

I think preference as well as concerns about dirt getting into things are the biggest reasons to not buy a QR.

The idea that the anvil is weaker isn't a good reason. The strength of the anvil is in the outside diameter not the center. The difference in torsional strength is something like 3% less due to the hole. If that 3% makes a difference you are already doing something very wrong.... like breaking 14mm bolts with your 1/4 drive ratchet with a cheater bar because it's the only combination that happens to fit and damnit you need to get your car fixed... but that is a pure hypothetical.

As I said previously, people should use what they want. I have no interest in arguing about it but I think you just made up that percentage. Also, it is important to note that the anvil is most likely going to SHEAR off at the gear. It's not likely to break off 1/3 the way down the anvil. It's not likely to break off 1/2 the way down the anvil. If your model treats the whole anvil equally then it isn't realistic.
 

Citation

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Jan 20, 2016
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As I said previously, people should use what they want. I have no interest in arguing about it but I think you just made up that percentage. Also, it is important to note that the anvil is most likely going to SHEAR off at the gear. It's not likely to break off 1/3 the way down the anvil. It's not likely to break off 1/2 the way down the anvil. If your model treats the whole anvil equally then it isn't realistic.

I half made up the number. I calculated a while back and assumed the 3/8" anvil was actually a 3/8" circle. I just recalculated the numbers and found it was 4.8% if you assume a 3/8" circle and 3.4% if you assume a 3/8" square.

Note this does look at failure due to torsion which will be a shearing failure. It does not consider stress commentators that may occur at the root of the anvil. The intent isn't to get a perfect answer but to get one close enough to decide that the difference in anvil strength just isn't significant.

Here is where that comes from
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torsion_constant#Circle

I started with the dimensions of a Husky QR ratchet I have at hand. The anvil is 9.4mm per side with a 4.4mm hole down the center.

If we look at the equations that compare yield strength of a beam under tension we can see that the only factor that is affected by a hole down the center is the torsional constant J. I will say stiffness but J isn't actually stiffness but it's linear with stiffness.

J goes up with the diameter^4. This is why even a small increase in diameter result in big gains in torsional stiffness.

So if we assume a tube then
J=pi*D^4/32 (solid rod) or =pi/32 * (D^4-d^4) where D is the outer diameter and d is the inner diameter. Note the second one is basically the stiffness of a sold rod of diameter D - the stiffness of a sold rod of diameter d.

For a square J=2.25a^4 where a is 1/2 the length of a side of the square.

Here are the numbers:
Solid 3/8 "round" anvil = 766.5 mm^4
With hole = 766.5 - 36.8 = 729.7
4.8% reduction


Solid 3/8 square anvil = 1098 mm^4
With hole = 1098 - 36.8 = 1061.2 mm^4.
3.4% reduction

Since the actual anvils have rounded corners the true value would be somewhere between these two numbers.

The difference is much smaller than people think because the impact of diameter is so big.
 

measuredtwice

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Mar 17, 2019
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USA
You just replied and I haven't looked at the math but it does treat the whole anvil as equally likely to break at any point but the anvil pretty much always breaks at the gear, not randomly along the length. And it assumes that all force is transmitted radially which is also not true when a 300 lb gorilla ;) puts his weight on a pipe stuck on the end of his ratchet. All of it is moot though since he should have used a breaker bar. Not trying to start a fight. As I said, people should just use whatever they want. Even if it does break, a rebuild kit is often only $10 from the white van if they don't just replace it for free. I don't think it's going to be a big issue for most folks. If something doesn't work for them, they'll switch to something else.
 

Citation

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Jan 20, 2016
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Indy
You just replied and I haven't looked at the math but it does treat the whole anvil as equally likely to break at any point but the anvil pretty much always breaks at the gear, not randomly along the length. And it assumes that all force is transmitted radially which is also not true when a 300 lb gorilla ;) puts his weight on a pipe stuck on the end of his ratchet. All of it is moot though since he should have used a breaker bar. Not trying to start a fight. As I said, people should just use whatever they want. Even if it does break, a rebuild kit is often only $10 from the white van if they don't just replace it for free. I don't think it's going to be a big issue for most folks. If something doesn't work for them, they'll switch to something else.

I admit it's not a perfect model as it does assume pure torsion vs a combination of bending, linear and torsional shear. I think they will all show that the overall difference in strength is small and thus not something that should be a decision factor.
 

Rabid Badger

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Apr 2, 2018
Messages
1,338
If you're using a 3/8 ratchet in the torque range where QR might matter you've already moved beyond tool abuse and into Darwin Award territory.
 

anndel

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Oct 28, 2015
Messages
3,270
Location
Hawaii, USA
I have old Craftsman teardrops and newer Carlyle QR ratchets. I use them in certain situations when a regular non-QR ratchet keeps popping the socket.
 
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f121

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Dec 8, 2018
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2,069
Location
UK
I'm not convinced about the strength argument.

I grew up wrenching with cheap Asian tools, abusing them because I didn't have impacts or a selection of long handled ratchets and when your in the junkyard without a breaker bar, you jump on the end of the 3/8 ratchet to bust the nut loose. Never broke one. Never.

The only time I needed to claim on the lifetime warranty on my $15 ratchet was when I was using it to hammer a socket onto a rusty bolt and the quick release fired off across the junkyard. Still worked as a ratchet, just didn't grip the socket anymore.

These days I run hot and cold on the qr thing, my goto ratchet is a f80 (no qr) which I love, but my road box has a f80r (qr) and everytime I use it, I find myself thinking 'this is easy'
 

Qualitytools

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Apr 30, 2014
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2,850
Location
SOCAL
I prefer the QR over non for the same reason the OP sited, plus as I get older and with aching hands it's easier not having to fight to get the socket off.
 

Ralf11

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Feb 29, 2016
Messages
2,275
I'm convinced about the strength argument.

I just don't think it is a big difference, for the ring reason stated above.

Also, I was edumacated to not use a ratchet as a breaker bar as young tyke.
 

Skin

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Feb 24, 2010
Messages
11,713
Location
Boston
There have been a few tests published over the years. One I found quickly was for Japanese brands and included two Snap-on ratchets, an F80 and a 100 tooth round head. Both broke at around 300 foot pounds. Nepros 90 pear head (quick release) broke at 237 foot pounds and two Taiwan made round head quick release ratchets broke at ~260 foot pounds.

Obviously drilling out the anvil is going to weaken it but anything over 200 foot pounds is still a lot of torque for 3/8" and will be pretty uncomfortable. At that point you'd probably be more inclined to reach for an impact wrench or your longest 1/2".
 

mikey03

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May 17, 2024
Messages
2,034
I used a QR this weekend that my uncle had in his garage. It’s weird because on one hand it can be more secure since the socket don’t come off until you push the button. On the other hand if you accidentally hit the button then the socket comes right off. So it’s both more secure and less secure and thinking about it gives me a headache 🤕

All my ratchets are regular style, non QR. idk if I need any QR for any particular reason.
 

gatewaysysop

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Joined
Nov 11, 2008
Messages
3,286
Location
Arizona
For me it's a mixed bag. I don't often need a quick release, but some of my favorite ratchets (Craftsman RHFT for example) have QR. I like their version and I've never witnessed a strength a issue in the anvil with that particular design. Most of my other stuff is non-QR and I do like it for the simplicity, strength and sometimes compactness.

QR wouldn't stop me from buying a ratchet, but at the same time, for me anyway, lack of QR wouldn't bother me either.
 

Kkmk

Active member
Joined
Dec 26, 2023
Messages
41
Quick release for me. I’ve only ever owned middle of the road ratchets, Stanley, Kincrome but like the ability to drop a ratchet without the socket rolling away down a drain.

I do like being able to push the button and the socket falls where I want it, and being able to reload one handed.

Mate at work dropped a fair amount on snap on non quick release, then had to borrow one of my QR for a bit. Now he has snap on QR ratchets.

Side note: Wera 3/8 w 1/4 hex inside ratchets: No bit retention. Get stuffed.
 

liliysdad

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Jul 18, 2008
Messages
5,372
Had and have both. I’m not emotionally attached to either, but definitely prefer non QR.
 
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