Quick safety switch question

[Mike F]

Just a quick question before I throw the switch. I have the switch wired, and as you can see line comes in from above and load from below. 2 hots and a ground. I have the ground connected to a blade on the switch. Is this okay or do I need to bypass the switch blades and connect the grounds to each other directly?

 

[Junkman]

Looks OK to me, but your neutral should have white tape on it to properly identify it. I am not the authority on code, so I can't say if it is proper to break the neutral, but I can't see how it would do any harm in the box that you are using.

 

[wilbilt]

It should be two hots and a neutral on the switch. There may be a separate grounding lug for the enclosure. The neutral should be in the center.

I don't know your exact installation, but in some cases, the ground and neutral are supposed to be kept separate back to the main panel. I.e., the neutral should not be used as an equipment ground. And, as far as I know, the ground should never be switched.

 

[Mike F]

Actually i referenced Charles' post, here http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=456&highlight=help+wiring+campbell when doing the wiring. The compressor itself has connecting points for 2 hots and a ground. Good point on the neutral being in the middle, but is that per code or just a suggestion (meaning can I leave it as is?). Since it does appear to be a ground and not a neutral, do I need to connect the 2 ground wires directly and bypass the switch blades?

 

[wilbilt]

If it is a ground and not a neutral, it should not be switched. It may also need to be bonded to the safety switch housing as well as the compressor ground.

If left as-is, you would probably never have a problem, but when the switch is "off", the equipment would be ungrounded. If for some reason the switch failed to disconnect one of the hot legs, there is a possibility someone couild get zapped.

As far as a neutral being in the center, I am not sure if it is a requirement, but every switch I have seen has been wired that way. it may fall under the "workmanlike manner" reference that is so often mentioned in the NEC.

 

[rockwithjason]

The code allows any arrangement of conductors on the switch but it is not generally accepted to switch the neutral. The neutral in 99% of cases is tied straight thru the disconnect. The ground MUST NEVER BE SWITCHED AND MUST BE BONDED TO THE SWITCH ENCLOSURE. The paint must be scraped away from the can and a grounding lug installed.

The code is very clear on switching neutrals, the neutral can only be switched if all of the ungrounded (hot) conductors are switched by the same device. The only time that I am aware of the neutral being switched as a requirement is in explosion proof installations.

 

[Mike F]

Thanks for the responses. Looks like I will rewire the hot wires to the outside blades, and wire the grounds directly to eachother. Jason, thanks. I would not have thought of scraping away the paint on the box first.

 

[Mike F]

One other thing. Do I need to use #6 for the grounds? If not, can I cut the white wire(currently taped as green), use the bare copper as the ground, and use a #10 from the compressor ground terminal to the bare copper and the box. I would also cut the white at the entry point to the breaker box. Or should I wire nut the unused wires inside the breaker box and switch?

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Ground size is dependent on circut breaker amp rating, NEC table 250.122 gives us the info. For 30 to 60 amp breakers, a #10 ground is OK.

Charles