Quick workbench construction question

[Cholleman]

I'm going to start building my bench this week and have a question that could impact how i design it. primarily, it boils down to 4x4 or 2x4 for the support legs. 2x4 will allow for more space under the bench for storage. i've also never seen un-treated 4x4's at lowes, and a lot of their stock is still dripping wet on the rack which could warp as it dries out.

also, i'd like to build some DIY drawers that run just under the front edge. i'll need to cut the openings for the drawers out, so could i use 3/4 ply as the front facing and wrap the back and sides with 2x4?

i know it's a bit confusing, but i appreciate the help. thanks.

 

[bgott]

It depends on the bracing you are going to use and the weight you are going to put on top of it. You could stack engine blocks on top of 2X4 legs as long as you had them braced so they didn't bow out. Myself, I like overkill, it's 4X4's for me. I never know when I'll get a dose of the dummies and try to set something like the engine block out of a Kenworth on my "lightweight, never going to be used for nothing heavy" workbench.

Is this bench going to be freestanding or is the wall going to hold up one side?

 

[Stuey]

Your local lumber yard might have better 4x4s. Or, you can always double up two 2x4s to get the leg dimensions you're looking for. That would also open things up to different designs.

 

[CenTex52Chevy]

Cholleman,

I've never seen a work bench that used 2 x 4 for legs. All of the work benches I've seen (that were wood) were built on 4 x 4 legs. The only non treated 4 x 4 I've seen are cedar and quite expensive for use on a work bench.

I built the legs on my work bench by putting two 2 x 4 together with glue and screws.

 

[ni[x]it]

4x4 all the way. Wouldn't have done it any other way.

 

[georgiadave]

If you double 2x4s, you can create dados by gapping one of the 2x4s for the horizontal cross members.

 

[IDASHO]

If your lumber yard doesnt have 4x4 is fir, you need to find another lumber yard.

 

[DustyandLefty]

4x4s for the legs and 2x4s for the sides and top bracing will make it plenty strong. You'll have install some extra support for the drawers however, since the top row would have to sit below the front 2x4 holding up the top.

It took me way too many years to realize I could put big locking casters on my benches (NOTE: make the legs shorter first!). Now I can push them around easily rather than trying to drag them across the concrete.

D&L

 

[logical]

I used 2x4's sistered togehter here (screwed & glued) for my work table in the basement. The outside one is shorter at the top and supports the hidden top frame of 2x4s. A ring of 2x6 that you see ties it all together also. there is a hidden ring of 2x4 supporting the lower storage shelf also which adds to the rigidity of the legs. As was mentioned, it's all in the bracing and integrity of the joints. Everything is tied in as many different ways as possible. Liquid nails is your best friend for projects like this.

 

[KenS]

I used 2x4's sistered togehter here (screwed & glued) for my work table in the basement...

Logical,

Your storage shelves are exactly what I have been wanting to build. Any chance you can provide a few photos of the corner and center support details? And what about some dimensions?

Also, are all your shelves on casters? I noticed the lower one was, but the feet of the larger shelves are hidden in your photo.

Thanks.

 

[Tom2]

The use of 4X4s is completely useless when the structural integrity is based on the strength of the nails/bolts/fasteners.

2X4s are strong enough for any application unless you're building trains on top of them.

The key to strength is to have the wood holding the weight of the bench, not the fasteners. I see decks built like that all the time, and it's a miracle most are still standing.

It looks like Logical has the same basic structural design as these benches I've thrown together. (his is nicer)

The weakest point in these designs are the casters. I really need to be able to move them around. But I would build an engine on top of it and not worry. I could always throw some 4X4s under if I were afraid of a caster braking.

 

[Cholleman]

thanks guys. it will be free standing. my lumber yard isn't close, so the big box stores are my only option. i'm pretty sure they (lowes) don't carry untreated 4x4's. using 2 2x4's sounds like a good idea. looking at the area where the bench is going, it'll be plenty long. i think i'll have to do some measurements and see if i can incorporate a vertical stack of drawers below the bench on one side. this would allow me to use 2x's around the top. casters are a must, as i'd like the flexability to move this thing easily when i epoxy the floor.

Logical, I like how you flushed the horizontal 2x's into the legs. from your pic, it looks like the inside 2x4 was cut to allow the brace to sit flush. do you see any problem doing it the opposite and cutting the outer 2x4?

 

[malodin]

lots of good suggestions here, i say mostly it depends upon the kind of weight your going to be having on the top.

 

[Tom2]

You're right that Lowes does not carry non-PT 4X4s. I went in looking for them one time and they looked at me like I was asking if they had a space shuttle for sale.

They're like $8 a piece I think.. So, not cost effective at all.

 

[rjspitz]

My local Home Depot carries untreated fir 4x4's, and they're straight. Found that in my area Home Depot carries better lumber than Lowes, Northern VA.

I just built my work bench, I'll post pics later. It has a 2x10 skirt to allow the legs to span the full 8" from leg to leg. The 3/4" top sits in a rabbit joint, but recessed to allow for a 1/8" floating hardboard top. This way I can replace the hardboard top as needed without having to take the table apart.

 

[Ray-CA]

You can get some really good ideas here (http://www.strongtie.com/DIY/projects.html#shelves) Even if you don't use their ties, there are some good designs that you could copy.

Ray

 

[hobie1dog]

Tom2.....looks like some good "growing lights" you have in your cabinet.

 

[Tom2]

Tom2.....looks like some good "growing lights" you have in your cabinet.

Heh..Yes. For the vegetable garden! Didn't work all that great though. I'm just gonna be buying nursery plants next year.

 

[Falcon67]

I would use a 2x4 base and a 2x4 perimeter. Glue (construction adhesive) and screw the legs and corners if you never want it apart. Notch the front 2x for the drawers. If you want strength, then make the top from 1" MDF or better use double 3/4 plywood glued together and screwed to the lower frame. If you plan on a good sized vice, lay 2x8 or 2x12 horizontally in the frame in the appropriate corner, glued and screwed. I sculpted my bench around the outer base of the vice on that corner, to insure I could stand pieces up in the vice at that spot. For a finishing touch, look up a sheet metal bender and have them bend a top for it. I have a 2' x 5' bench that I use for transmission work, it was about $20 for a metal top and now I want to top every surface in the shop with that stuff.

 

[Falcon67]

Tom2.....looks like some good "growing lights" you have in your cabinet.

[In his best Cheech voice] "Maybe he's from California, man"

 

[rocketman]

[In his best Cheech voice] "Maybe he's from California, man"

EXACTLY what I thought!!! Tomato seedlings.... right?

 

[Coach James]

On my first workbench, 8x2, the four vertical legs are single 2x4's. When I finished it, I climbed on top and jumped up and down(230 pounds) and it never budged. My next one will probably have a second 2x4 cut down to allow the skirt to rest on it but this first one is fine. I made shelves like some in the pics and used 2x3 for all the horizontal pieces. More clearance and no sag at all.

Coach

 

[rjspitz]

4x4 legs and 2x10 top skirt with 2x6 bottom skirt. This thing doesn't budge.

Haven't used it yet, so not sure how the hardboard will hold up. If it doesn't, I can just remove it and stick with the plywood top.

 

[Free Willie]

My question is why not pressure treated? I used it on my built in workbench.
I use it anytime it will be in contact with the concrete.

 

[Cholleman]

My question is why not pressure treated? I used it on my built in workbench.
I use it anytime it will be in contact with the concrete.

the PT lumber at lowes and HD is full of water. I don't want to build the bench and find out the legs warped later. i had that same thought with repect to concrete and wood, but that issue is quickly mitigated by separating the legs from the floor a la casters.

i'll be doing mostly light to medium duty work on it. no ****** rebuilds or engine overhauls...yet.

For a finishing touch, look up a sheet metal bender and have them bend a top for it. I have a 2' x 5' bench that I use for transmission work, it was about $20 for a metal top and now I want to top every surface in the shop with that stuff.

i scored a sheet of stainless steel from a buddy that had an extra one left over from a job he did. already planning on seeing what the local machine shop can do with it.

 

[logical]

thanks guys. it will be free standing. my lumber yard isn't close, so the big box stores are my only option. i'm pretty sure they (lowes) don't carry untreated 4x4's. using 2 2x4's sounds like a good idea. looking at the area where the bench is going, it'll be plenty long. i think i'll have to do some measurements and see if i can incorporate a vertical stack of drawers below the bench on one side. this would allow me to use 2x's around the top. casters are a must, as i'd like the flexability to move this thing easily when i epoxy the floor.

Logical, I like how you flushed the horizontal 2x's into the legs. from your pic, it looks like the inside 2x4 was cut to allow the brace to sit flush. do you see any problem doing it the opposite and cutting the outer 2x4?

Actually, it is the outside 2x4 that is cut short. A 2x4 frame sits on the cut down outside sister....so it is flush to the legs. What you see is a 2x6 frame that then was screwed and glued to the outside of the 2x4 frame (and the top 2 inches of that outside sister of the legs). Not very clear, I know. The top is 3/4 plywood plus 3/4 melamine particle board with a hardwood ring to cover the unfinished edges.

 

[logical]

Logical,

Your storage shelves are exactly what I have been wanting to build. Any chance you can provide a few photos of the corner and center support details? And what about some dimensions?

Also, are all your shelves on casters? I noticed the lower one was, but the feet of the larger shelves are hidden in your photo.

Thanks.

they are each on 4 casters, yes. There are some pictures on here somewhere when somebody else asked that..I'll add them if i can find them. Each shelf is half a 4x8 foot sheet supported by a 2x4 frame with an extra "joist" running the 2' distance. I built them first. The legs were then just glued and screwed on with one diagonal 2x4 across the back to keep it from matchboxing.

Found them:

 

[KenS]

they are each on 4 casters, yes. There are some pictures on here somewhere when somebody else asked that..I'll add them if i can find them. Each shelf is half a 4x8 foot sheet supported by a 2x4 frame with an extra "joist" running the 2' distance. I built them first. The legs were then just glued and screwed on with one diagonal 2x4 across the back to keep it from matchboxing.

Found them:

Thanks. The caster shot really helped.

 

[back2class]

As wisely stated, 2x4 is strong enough to support a car on top of the bench so 4x4 is a waste of space and money. Remember basic box structures. A strong brace in back be it a sheet of plywood or lumber corssbrace will make it strong and some 45deg. corner braces on the front corner to top area will be good too. Or you could lag bolt it to the wall studs and acomplish the same thing. Thats what I do. How many of these wimpy benches get used here is beyond me. When I am fighting with something big and steel in the vise most of the benches people post on GJ would go airborne or at least get dragged all over the place. A heavy bench bolted to a wall that can take a beating with a sledge is a workbench. A good 3/4 plywood or advantech top works well. I could not imagine how frustrating a bench on wheels would be. I guess it is really what you do in your shop that decides that though.

 

[Cholleman]

so i'm in the process of building the bench as we speak. got most of it framed yesterday and it's turning out pretty nice. i'd like to add a vice to the top, but not sure how much reinforcement i'll need to secure it. as it stands now, it's framed 2x4s with doubled 2x4's for the legs. top will be 2 x 3/4" OSB with a stainless steel skin.

 

[JohnMcD348]

Look for the thread I posted awhile back asking for advice and ideas. There were a few pics there about using a trailer hitch mount to create a removable mount unit for grinders, presses and such. Maybe that would be a good idea for your bench.

 

[babzog]

I lag bolted my vice to the corner of the top frame (front and side) and one regular through the top. It's not going anywhere (though I've not yet reefed on it with a 5' breaker bar extension...).

 

[Chris Adams]

My old bench (built it 21 years ago) uses a solid core door as a top. It has held up to engines, trannys and anything else I piled on it, but is way too heavy. I was looking at the castors and I think when I build the next one, soon I hope, I will put those on it.

It takes two men to drag my old bench around.

By the way, anyone worrying about a castor mounted bench rolling when you work on it, you put one or two angle braces under it and screw it into the wall for work.
If you move it often, use wing nuts on studs in the wall. If you seldom move it screws work. Takes about a second to gun them out with the cordless impact.
That way you can use it as a portable, but it won’t' shift when you are yanking on the vice.