aka Larry
Well-known member
Nice DA Integra. I have a '93 with a B20 swap myself.
As requested, here are some pics of the blocks and pinch weld jacking points.
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A little hard to see, but both front and rear are half on the strengthened jacking point and half on the normal section of the pinch weld.
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Here's a pic where you can see how the pinch weld really eats into the block. I didn't have time to lower the car this weekend due to other projects but hopefully this upcoming weekend I can pull it down and see if there's any permanent damage to the blocks.
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Yes, I would recommend the 5000 - for the extra length and weight capacity. You won't need either for your DA but could be very helpful for your detailing business.If my primary use for the QuickJack is going to be the DA, should I get the BL-5000EXT for the extra 3" length? You have the BL-5000 correct?
From my understanding, cant you also use this "under" the car instead of running the length of the car? Would that resolve the issues with your DA specifically?
Trying to figure it out, so I can use for the DA, as well as use for my detailing business as it's sure easier getting wheels on/off and polishing when seated on a roller!
Yes, I would recommend the 5000 - for the extra length and weight capacity. You won't need either for your DA but could be very helpful for your detailing business.
I wasn't aware it could be used perpendicular to the car instead of parallel but a quick google search seems shows others mentioning this. I do not remember seeing that in the manual, perhaps I missed it? I'd need to take measurements to see if that would help. Also, the lengths may be OK between sides but the jack points are so close to the wheels that there may be clearance issues with the frame and tires. Just a concern that popped into my head, I'd need to test it out to see if there's issue there.
Personally, I'm not really seeing this as an "issue" or problem. I'm going to focus on making sure the front jack point is seated solid and just let the rear meet up anywhere it pleases on the pinch weld. The car is light enough and the pinch weld is strong enough so this isn't a problem. Saw a friend doing this with his 96+ Civic too and it's fine.
I used that same sheet and was still surprised with where the pads sit in relation to the jacking points, so be careful. But that was because I was looking at min/max distances without factoring in the size of the pad. Technically my jack points are close enough to be within spec - but not close enough so that each pad fits fully on the jacking point. But I suspect your DA will be the most extreme case as it was in mine so you'll probably be fine with all your other vehicles.Yea there is a great walkthrough guide for measuring your vehicles, and then using those specs to determine the best units for you.
It's like length between wheels, length between jacking points, total length of pinch weld...etc. I'll do that tonight and determine the best. If all will work with a 5000EXT, probably get that. If they all work with a 7000SLX, then I have a decision to make.
Has anyone lifted a long wheelbase pickup truck with a 7000slx? It's just small enough to work with my car, but my truck is a supercab F150 with an 8' bed. The quickjack site shows what appears to be a Raptor sitting on a 7000SLX, supported by the frame under the cab. Same cab as my truck, but with a really short bed. I emailed the manufacturer, and they told me to measure my lift points... It's body on frame, my lift points can be 15 feet apart. Will it be fine to lift the whole truck under the cab at points 60" apart?
Yep. Last time I got weighed, my truck was 6,60x lbs (curb weight stated to be 5,755 lbs but with fuel, tools, random junk, etc. it gets up to a little more. Love this tool!
My truck has an 8' bed w/ a crew cab. And it's a 3/4 ton so it's longer & heavier. So you should be good to go there.
I'm in a similar situation with the Miata. I have an NB and it does fit but barely.
To make it easier and avoid having to get it just right, I have small ramps I use which lets the front part of the quickjack slide further under the car. I used to just use pieces of wood though and that worked fine.
Here's a pic of the old setup. New setup uses cusco ramps which is nicer but certainly not required. I just don't have any pics of that setup to share right now. They are somewhere but I cannot seem to locate them.
I think I can get my ND on it without any extra stuff, this guy does:
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=8573899&postcount=23
Thanks again for the advice and pictures. I wouldn't have thought I'd find another person that owns a Miata and a really long pickup truck and a quickjack.
Bendpak should pay you for some pictures of the 8' Crewcab pickup and Miata up on the lift, it would save them from answering a bunch of questions.
I used that same sheet and was still surprised with where the pads sit in relation to the jacking points, so be careful. But that was because I was looking at min/max distances without factoring in the size of the pad. Technically my jack points are close enough to be within spec - but not close enough so that each pad fits fully on the jacking point. But I suspect your DA will be the most extreme case as it was in mine so you'll probably be fine with all your other vehicles.
Anyone have a delivery driver let you cut the pallet banding and unload the boxes individually off the truck?
Or does this sound like too much trouble to save $135?
My truck has an 8' bed w/ a crew cab. And it's a 3/4 ton so it's longer & heavier. So you should be good to go there.
I'm in a similar situation with the Miata. I have an NB and it does fit but barely.
To make it easier and avoid having to get it just right, I have small ramps I use which lets the front part of the quickjack slide further under the car. I used to just use pieces of wood though and that worked fine.
Here's a pic of the old setup. New setup uses cusco ramps which is nicer but certainly not required. I just don't have any pics of that setup to share right now. They are somewhere but I cannot seem to locate them.
If you're an able bodied adult male of average strength then don't bother paying for lift gate service - it's not that heavy.Good to hear. Mobile distributor supply offers free shipping but has a $135 lift gate charge.
I found out plugging in the unit first, then hold the down button while pushing the connector into the pump unit makes it much easier.
otherwise it was very hard to get the connectors installed, and leaking a bit of fluid with many failed attempts to push it on. Holding the down button opens the solenoid so it lets the fluid goes to the reservoir and not work against you.
I stumbled across this on Quick-Jack's YouTube channel.
https://www.quickjack.com/accessories/slx-frame-extension-kit-pair.html
Looks like they are making official frame extensions. $190.
I found out plugging in the unit first, then hold the down button while pushing the connector into the pump unit makes it much easier.
It does look like it was taken down.Dead link. Does anyone have an updated link? I went to the site and had no luck.
Where is that coupon code good at? Directly through Ranger/Bendpack/Quickjack? I assume there's a minimum purchase required as well?Don't forget to use coupon code CASH or search for another before ordering for $100 off. On a side note, if anyone has the truck adapters they don't need/want anymore, I'd be interested.
Loving mine for a multitude of reasons. I've got low ceilings and not that much depth as well, so now I don't have to do a left, right, front, rear song and dance to get the car up on all fours.
I needed the 7000EXT for weight and length requirements (my 740iL and X5M sit on 2/3 of each jackpad even with the EXT) and opted for the 12v version for portability since they'll fit into the bed of my truck and hatch of the SUV when the jacks are in the up position.
Came in very handy being able to do the catless downpipes on my X5M when needing to go back and forth working from the top and bottom without needing to stand on a stool. My 740iL is so long that I had to remove the rear bumper so in order to give myself enough room to be able to walk around the front but still be able to close the garage. While advised against, it's working nicely in my slightly slopped driveway. I put the larger blocks in the front and stacked small/large in the rear so it sat level while doing brakes on my Harley F150.
Don't forget to use coupon code CASH or search for another before ordering for $100 off. On a side note, if anyone has the truck adapters they don't need/want anymore, I'd be interested.
