Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Ya, I probably wouldn’t bother either. But if homie was close I would tell him to bring it over. Just out of curiosity.lol
Quickjack stuck in up position...Rust?
- Thread starter J5hort
- Start date
cmandp
Well-known member
I agree trying to open it more is probably making the issue worse. Any misalignment of the pivot axes (there are four of them) in addition to lack of roundness in the tube and pin plus rust I could see it.
Yes, if you leave them over the summer.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
So not all of a sudden
whateg01
Well-known member
2 and a half weeks and can't figure it out. I'm impressed, I think.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Like I mentioned earlier though, it could have been sticky in the down position but the ram easily opened it up. Closing it is a different story, gravity aint as strong as a hydraulic ram.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I know
welder4956
Well-known member
Sounds like it's time to call QuickJack for advise, or maybe start stacking 50 lb. bags of concrete on till it drops:
pcrov
Well-known member
Any luck getting lateral movement in any of the others?
In my experience these are the only places where penetrating oil helps - where you've already got at least a little bit of movement. The oil can get in and you can work it back and forth to break down the rust. As you go the rust/oil paste help grind it down further. Any kind of movement is a big step forward there.
I'd also try putting a jack sideways, between the uprights. If you've got a tube that somehow banana'd you might be able to straighten it enough to get it to let go.
Of course there's always also dumping an excessive amount of heat into it and seeing what happens.
I'm totally invested in this quickjack now.
Last edited:
FullRaceMerc
Well-known member
I would try a large ratchet strap to pull & try to reverse the action of the ram.
The first trick would be to operate the ratchet without putting limbs at risk if it were to suddenly collapse. Probably carefully reaching thru the center opening.
If the ratchet alone wouldn't move it, then with it still under tension from the strap, I would use a hammer at the arrows (with a hardwood block to prevent damage) to jar & encourage it to break loose. Back & forth between increasing ratchet tension & tapping with the hammer.
The first trick would be to operate the ratchet without putting limbs at risk if it were to suddenly collapse. Probably carefully reaching thru the center opening.
If the ratchet alone wouldn't move it, then with it still under tension from the strap, I would use a hammer at the arrows (with a hardwood block to prevent damage) to jar & encourage it to break loose. Back & forth between increasing ratchet tension & tapping with the hammer.
Lassen Forge
Well-known member
Hey, it's not a fail if they not only tell you not to do that, but tell you to call them if you DO do that to get it unstuck. Apparently this is a common enough problem they mention it on the tag and even say "Hey, call us if this happens, we'll help you unstick it"... After all, they built the damthing, and allegedly have a solution waiting for you!
So yeah, the first tool I'd use is a phone.
So yeah, the first tool I'd use is a phone.
FullRaceMerc
Well-known member
Sounds like it's time to call QuickJack for advise...
...
Hey, it's not a fail if they not only tell you not to do that, but tell you to call them if you DO do that to get it unstuck. Apparently this is a common enough problem they mention it on the tag and even say "Hey, call us if this happens, we'll help you unstick it"... After all, they built the damthing, and allegedly have a solution waiting for you!
So yeah, the first tool I'd use is a phone.
These ^ make sense. Call them first. I didn't read the fine print first time around, even though it's highlighted. Those guys probably have a method.
Bodj Built
Well-known member
I would try a large ratchet strap to pull & try to reverse the action of the ram.
The first trick would be to operate the ratchet without putting limbs at risk if it were to suddenly collapse. Probably carefully reaching thru the center opening.
If the ratchet alone wouldn't move it, then with it still under tension from the strap, I would use a hammer at the arrows (with a hardwood block to prevent damage) to jar & encourage it to break loose. Back & forth between increasing ratchet tension & tapping with the hammer.
Don't use a ratchet - use a come-along, and he just needs to lay the jack on its side so there's no risk of sudden collapse.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
The come along is the perfect tool for this job. Good thinking. My only concern would be finding the spot where it wouldn’t bend the pivot bars.
Edit mount the come along right where the ram would be.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Nice
Top frame with wood, not pivot tube.
Too dangerous. Other jack was stuck also. They were stuck under car prior and I had to use other jacks to get the out from under car. All the normal approaches were used, was just looking for creative ideas/suggestions. Had to take a little run at it, but eventually collapsed.
I think I will add self-tapping zerks in the rebuild/restoration.
Looking for any other mods while I am at it. Guessing there is a post...
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
I have an antique lathe that you have to lube regularly. A rubber tip on a little hand pump oil can oiler will force oil all the way through the bushings. If you already have an oil can you might want to give it a try.
If the rams and safety bars are disconnected, it has to be mechanical binding at the pivot points. Frozen sleeves or rusted pins will lock those frames solid. Keep soaking them, or try applying some heat to the joints to break them free.
johnre
Well-known member
Guess as to how much force you applied?
If you didn't use the tractor's inertia but only a slow steady push, I suppose it could not have been more than 80% of the tractor's weight.
Not sure, but tractor is about 400lbs. 5 speed manual. Started with pressure in 1st gear, nothing, worked up to 3rd gear, and only by taking a run at it did it break free.
johnre
Well-known member
Maybe this is just me, but I would inspect carefully for any damage at the pivot points.
The picture of your setup with the tractor and truck, along with the thought of that 400 lb. tractor needing some speed worked up in 3rd gear to be able to hit these hard enough to break them them free, would tend to work on my head. Especially the next time I was under a 5,000 lb. vehicle while they were supporting it.
But as I said, maybe this is just me.
Last edited:
It is a steel bar in sleeve setup for the joints. I do not think it was rust that was holding things up. It appears as mostly surface rust on the units. Pretty sure they were bound up due to joint not being completely round. As mentioned, jacks stands are used when doing work under the car.
I am planning a restoration of these as they need to be repainted, so all parts will be inspected/replaces as necessary.
Hooked
Well-known member
I've been following along without comment so glad to see you got them collapsed.
Thanks. Now the fun begins rebuilding them. Looking for mod ideas. Maybe I will post the rebuild details in another thread.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
I’ve never owned a set, but I‘ve always thought they needed to be bolted down. That causes a problem with different size cars though. And do the hoses get in the way/of a creeper? Maybe make them longer?
I run hoses from back of garage center so they are only in the rear or front of the car depending on if it is nose in or rear in position in garage. So sides and either front/rear are free of hoses (3 sides unobstructed). Any work on underside and access from under front or rear depending on which way car is in garage.
I have never felt the need to bolt them down to floor, they are designed to work as a pair and are pretty sturdy. I guess an underside scissor jack would be an alternative, but they would restrict access to underside middle. Quick Jacks rarely get in way for normal oil change and tire/brake work (which is the most common).
I have never felt the need to bolt them down to floor, they are designed to work as a pair and are pretty sturdy. I guess an underside scissor jack would be an alternative, but they would restrict access to underside middle. Quick Jacks rarely get in way for normal oil change and tire/brake work (which is the most common).
c39er
Well-known member
Quick constantly says you must have a car on these lifts....ALWAYS...when ever raising it.
Instruction manual needs to be carefully read.
Easy to down load one if you don't have it.
Instruction manual needs to be carefully read.
Easy to down load one if you don't have it.
Attachments
These were originally under a car and got stuck in the up position. I had to manually raise car with other jacks to remove them. Once removed, many things were done in an attempt to get them lowered, so they were originally raised with a load. I have been using these for years without issue and am pretty familiar with them. Based on customer feedback there are many long term issues with these.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
In an environment that they can rust that badly, I'd expect problems. Your tools must be rough too
c39er
Well-known member
There is a phone# in the instructions to call when the lift is stuck up and you cannot get it to lower.
I can only imagine the runaround and linguistical challenges. Should I ask the Home Depot worker as well?
Nope. Hand and power tools as well as vehicles (6 total, some with 240K+ miles) are in relatively good shape. If you live anywhere in New England you should know that a certain level of moisture and humidity is normal. I am actually pretty good about caring for my equipment. I think the QJs are in a different league. Seattle! you should know.
Anyway, was just looking for ideas on how to get these things lowered, but was able to take care of. I appreciate the ideas and even tried a few. Now that they are down, I plan to either rebuild/restore or replace. Given the cost of these units and other lifting solutions, a restore/rebuild is likely. I'll post another thread for ideas and mods as it would be a good time to do it.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I lived in MA for almost 40 years, so I get it, which is why I kept a dehumidifier in my garage.
Got cove/radiant heaters in there, but a good upgrade would be a mini-split. I believe they have AC, heat and dehumidifiers in them. Got a wall mounted dehumidifier in basement that is adjacent to garage. It would probably help if I kept door open.