Quikcrete or Behr or Wolverine?

[scottbabu]

Getting very close to pulling the trigger.
I've been on this forum for weeks now and boy, is there a lot of ground to cover and many things to consider.
Questions:
1) I've got access to a rental walk behind concrete grinder with a diamond blade. ($106 for the day including the blades) Plan to use it on my 5+ year old slab by the end of the week. If I leave the cars off of it, can I wait 2 weeks before applying a coating?

2) OK, considering I'm doing the diamond prep, will I get satisfactory results with the 2 part water-based Quikcrete epoxy (with the 2 part premium clear coat system as well)? I know it's not on par with Wolverine, but my research here seems to indicate that the proper prep work (ie: diamond grinder) is the key to making any system work well. Will diamond grinding and following the Quikcrete directions completely give me lasting results?

3) Anyone use the Behr 2 part epoxy system? Seems similar to Quikcrete, who makes it for Behr?

Thanks in advance.

 

[XR80David]

Getting very close to pulling the trigger.
I've been on this forum for weeks now and boy, is there a lot of ground to cover and many things to consider.
Questions:
1) I've got access to a rental walk behind concrete grinder with a diamond blade. ($106 for the day including the blades) Plan to use it on my 5+ year old slab by the end of the week. If I leave the cars off of it, can I wait 2 weeks before applying a coating?

2) OK, considering I'm doing the diamond prep, will I get satisfactory results with the 2 part water-based Quikcrete epoxy (with the 2 part premium clear coat system as well)? I know it's not on par with Wolverine, but my research here seems to indicate that the proper prep work (ie: diamond grinder) is the key to making any system work well. Will diamond grinding and following the Quikcrete directions completely give me lasting results?

3) Anyone use the Behr 2 part epoxy system? Seems similar to Quikcrete, who makes it for Behr?

Thanks in advance.

If you don't want to mess with it again and you go through the trouble of grinding it and pay $100 a day for it I recommend going with Wolverine because of obvious reasons.

 

[04 Navi]

Prep is key to any floor paint for the main reason that it helps the paint bond to the cement, however preperation will have nothing to do with the durability of the paint. Durability is directly related to cost. You pay for what you get.

Also concerning your prep. Grinding may be great, but you still need to do the corners. That is one advantage of muratic acid. If you can get past the acid label you will realize that it also has a cost advantage and it will get in every nook and cranny. Personally I think that grinding is great if you have a uneven floor, but if I had to do it all over again, I would still do muratic acid. My 1500 sq ft, if I remember right, cost under $60.00 and took maybe a couple of hours.
All I am saying is think about your product and your prep. Skimp on your paint and you might as well skimp on the prep, because you will be doing it all over again sooner than later.

 

[nissan_crawler]

Blah, blah, blah, blah. Whenever I read these threads, I have to wonder if the people commenting have actually properly prepped a floor to use these products.

I put Valspar (now quikrete) on my 55 year old floor 5 years ago. It started out an inch high with dirt and grease (literally).

I didn't grind it. I used a floor scraper and shoveled out more than a wheelbarrow full of goop (bought it this way). I used 6 gallons of purple power, 2 boxes of TSP, acid, and 13 hours pressure washing.

5 years of welding/grinding/torching/plasma cutting, wood working later, the floor is just fine, and hasn't chipped or peeled anywhere. I fail to see where a high dollar floor would benefit me any more.

 

[FRANKIEWHIPIT]

I have no experience with any of these products - but If the Behr system is anything like their paint products it is ****
Whoo Hoo, 1st post

 

['the epoxy floor guy']

I sell coatings, BUT I am ALSO a realist. YOU need to decide how important a couple factors are and then I will let YOU decide.

1st. You are on the right track with diamond grinding. The person who commented on the acid prep is CORRECT. You will NEVER get that 1/4"-1/2" away from all the walls and obsticles. AND you will leave a 'cove' in the circle where the grinder will not reach.

YOU DECIDE: Have you ever seen a Pic on the internet of a FAILED floor where they had a failure in the corners or along the edge?

2nd. I have heard about 3 good results for every 5 that I hear had (all but instant) failures. ALL said they followed the instructions to a tee. MOST who said it failed said they "ONLY followed the directions on the box" ( AKA - Acid prep)

YOU DECIDE: IF almost ALL the people who had failures used acid prep. Some who had positive results used a diamond grinder. ALL used (basically) the same (DIY BOX store) Product.
So Diamond Grind+DIY Box Store Epoxy = FEW failures
Follow the Directions on the box+Acid Etch = Most Failures

I DECIDE: Don't use Water base DIY products.
I DECIDE: DO use a Clear coat.
I DECIDE: DO use a 'texture additive' to prevent slippage I reccommend a product called SHARK GRIP @ Sherwin Williams. You can mix it in the clear coat (about 1/4 cup per Gallon).

IMHO if you diamond grind, Put down the Quickrete SOLVENT based epoxy, ADD My Adhesion Promoter (strengthens the bond and acts as a primer), then install their SOLVENT BASED (Urethane if possible) Clear coat with a Texture additive. You will get a GOOD 2-4 Years out of it.

-- AFTER the floor 'fails', you will need to GRIND it back off and Install a new coating. REGARDLESS of the new technology. The new products now will Stick to whatever is on the floor as long as it is Stuck down to the concrete

Spend A couple bux more and purchase a Good Epoxy system (I have a suggestion, Ahem) You can expect that life to go up to 10-15 years.

--After the floor looks like it needs to be 'refreshed' just put on another clear coat for another 10+ years.

YOU DECIDE: Cost Difference for a 2 Car Garage~ $200

 

[WolverineCoatings]

I vote for Wolverine! Wooo hooo...

 

[Mossberg]

I vote for Wolverine! Wooo hooo...

Why am I not surprised?