Quincy 214 compressor build

[GLaD in TX]

It has been a while since I posted last. Been collecting parts for my small 20 gallon compressor project. Pictures show where I am at. Pressure switch wiring is exposed because this was the initial start up. I have read some excellent articles on this forum to get a better understanding of the unloader configuration for these older compressors as well as quincy compressor knowledge. To keep it simple I'll post in numerical format and would appreciate responses to a few questions I have.

1. 214 came from a binks air compressor setup with gasoline engine. The 214 is capable of 11cfm at 810rpm. Cobbler provided a website to calculate compressor rpms. My specs are: 1725 rpm Dayton 2HP motor, 12" compressor pulley, 5 3/4" motor pulley puts the speed at 827rpm. Quincy literature states this model is also capable of 16scfm with a 3hp motor and running it at 1200rpm. Not interested in the higher capacity for my use.
2. Wired for 120v. Motor pulls 21 amps at the lower voltage and was able to get it going without tripping the 20A breaker. Plan to wire it for 220v eventually.
3. Compressor pilot valve that is used for a gasoline powered compressor configuration was removed, and hole was plugged. I also capped the unloader valves.
4. Unloader valve on the pressure switch is being used to relieve compressor head pressure to eliminate the load on the electric motor on restart when pressure switch reengages. I want the pump to cycle off and on and not run continuously.
5. Could not believe how quiet this pump ran. Pump built up 75psi within a minute and I shut it off to listen for leaks, which I do have at the pressure switch where it screws into the tank. So time to dissassemble and use more teflon and retighten.
6. Pump crankcase pressure was bouncing around at 12-13psi. Does this mean a teardown and rebuild? Something I am not looking forward to.
7. Does the unloader valve on the pressure switch replace the function of optional unloader valve (part #7970x) that would mount on the blanking plate below the air filter? Is there a way to engage the pressure switch unloader valve manually? When I turned off the pump and tried to plug it back in, it was under load and would turn real slow and pop the breaker.
8. Belts are cogged AX55 and pressure switch is Square D with lever and unloader rated at 110-150psi.
9. One last thing I did was change the oil with quincy compressor oil.

Appreciate any responses/feedback. Really want to button this up and make it functional. If I am looking at a pump rebuild that will set me back in time. thanks.

 

[walta]

The oil gage on my 210 vibrates when running up and down a pound or so. Cold start it runs 15 pounds and drifts down to 12 as it warms.

What I do not see on your tank is a safety blow off valve. Should the pressure switch stick there is nothing to stop the compressor from building enough pressure to blow the tank. Yes I know it is unlikely but the part is cheap.

Mine has the plot valve also at first I did not think I would like it. But it has grown on me. You will never leave the shop and forget to turn off the compressor. And when a compressor motor starts it always startled me.

I changed my oil 4 times and it was still dirty. I had to open the port and wipe ½ an inch of slim from the bottom of the case.


Walta

 

[GLaD in TX]

Interesting that you bring up the tank blow off valve. I knew I needed one and thought it wasn't there on top of the tank. I showed the company that sold me the pressure switch pictures of my tank and he said it is the fitting where the small copper line is screwed into. I may unscrew that tomorrow and take a closer look.

Update on my pump pressure. I have a new gauge and expect it to be accurate. When it is cold it jumps to 12-13 psi immediately. And when it warms up it is just above 10psi. I timed the pump building pressure and it gets to 75psi in 1 min 15 seconds. Then on to 100psi in 2 min which is my goal. Is this time lapse normal for building pressure? I can accept waiting 2 minutes. Hoping a rebuild is not necessary. I just need to figure out how to be able to restart without a load on the electric motor.

I will keep the pilot valve handy in case I do not like the stopping and starting setup.

Appreciate the response.

 

[Citation]

2 min to 100 psi seems reasonable for a 2hp motor.
From memory I think my 20 gallon, 5.7cfm compressor was about twice that.

You can probably further reduce noise levels with a new air filter housing. My standard suggestion is an "automotive" style that looks like an air cleaner on an old carbureted V8. Slip a 2' length of rubber hose onto that (yes, the hose really does make a difference). This all costs under $20 and really helps.

 

[GLaD in TX]

Ok thanks.

Another update. I lowered the pressure switch setting for it to turn off at 90psi. It did turn off and heard a squish sound which is the pressure being relieved, I think. Then opened the value to let air out and and when it attempted to cycle back on, it bogged the motor and popped the breaker. So that tells me all of the pressure is not being released to allow the motor to start without a load. Any responses would be much appreciated.

 

[walta]

In this photo when the compressor is running air comes out of the pipe with the black arrow. The air goes thru the one way check valve with the red arrow. The yellow tube should be connected to the black tube. When the pressure switch turns off it presses a valve and vents the black tube thru the yellow tube.

Fill the tank when it turns off you should hear the hiss. Disconnect the yellow tube it should not be under pressure. If it is the problem is the valve on the pressure switch.

Next disconnect the black tube it should not be under pressure. If it is the black and yellow tubes are not connected.

It is possible for the check valve to leak and refill the black tube but then you would have a hissing unloader whenever you had air in the tank.


Walta

 

[walta]

I see no reason to remove the pilot valve just set it for a higher pressure than the switch and you will never know it is there.

Walta

 

[GLaD in TX]

Thanks for that troubleshooting technique. I will try to do that today and get back with the results.