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Quincy 325 Noise

mryanangel

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Mar 10, 2013
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I picked up a Quincy 325 Record of Change 104 this past weekend which had been used most recently in an insulation blowing business. Today I picked up a new single phase 5hp motor to replace the 3 phase it came with.

I am not very familiar with these old compressors, but after removing the motor i spun the compressor over and heard some strange noises. Here is a short video of the sound as i spin the flywheel.

Is this normal, or is something very wrong?

 
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koditten

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Sounded pretty normal to me. Mine sounded very similar. I'm sure having the microphone next to the block amplified those sounds.
 
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mryanangel

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Sounded pretty normal to me. Mine sounded very similar. I'm sure having the microphone next to the block amplified those sounds.

Yes, the video definitely sounds louder than in person since the mic is sitting on top of the tank which is like a big drum. It is building air pressure, just wasn't sure about the sound.
 
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mryanangel

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ok, you guys are making me feel better about my purchase. I also picked up a Square D NEMA 2 magnetic starter, those suckers are pricey pieces of equipment.

I do need to get a filter assembly for the compressor and I see all sorts of brands available on eBay. Anyone have experience with any brand in particular?
 

redmondjp

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Sounded pretty normal to me. Mine sounded very similar. I'm sure having the microphone next to the block amplified those sounds.

Ditto! I've got the same compressor that I am in the process of doing a Steelman 3-phase to single-phase conversion on (where you reconnect the motor windings and add capacitors - will do a post after I have got it done). My Record of Change is darn near the same as well - either 104 or 105.

Mine sounds the same as in your video when it is turned over by hand. No worries.
 
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mryanangel

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Ditto! I've got the same compressor that I am in the process of doing a Steelman 3-phase to single-phase conversion on (where you reconnect the motor windings and add capacitors - will do a post after I have got it done). My Record of Change is darn near the same as well - either 104 or 105.

Mine sounds the same as in your video when it is turned over by hand. No worries.
I looked into converting my 3 phase to single...but I have enough projects, so was easier to just buy a new motor.

This is the monster Nema 2 starter I am going to be using...after I disconnect the Hand wiring on the Hand-Off-Auto switch.uploadfromtaptalk1445291688226.JPGuploadfromtaptalk1445291701726.JPGuploadfromtaptalk1445291716822.JPGuploadfromtaptalk1445291728628.JPG

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redmondjp

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That is the Cadillac of motor starters you have there - a bit of overkill for a 5HP motor - you'll have to order the proper overload heater strips for your motor.
 

matt_i

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Wow. I would think a 3phase unit would be cheaper (I only see 2 switched poles).

If you parallel the off-auto function (really its an inhibitor to the pressure switch in the off position) remotely you can enable/disable the air compressor from there.
 
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mryanangel

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Yes, it is quite a hefty starter. I got it local to me, never used for $250, which is only a fraction of what it's worth. I believe I need a B45 overload heater strip for my motor

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mryanangel

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Wow. I would think a 3phase unit would be cheaper (I only see 2 switched poles).

If you parallel the off-auto function (really its an inhibitor to the pressure switch in the off position) remotely you can enable/disable the air compressor from there.
I plan to disable the hand circuit and then wire the pressure switch into the On circuit. I just want to make sure that the motor can never run when the pressure switch is open. This should enable me to shut the motor off and on, but still be protected by the pressure switch.

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Rosenbluth

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Jan 6, 2014
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Check out Solberg intake filters and silencers. They seem to be reasonably priced on Amazon. I'm going to order one for my Rolair soon. I believe most of them are also a form of a tube silencer as well...They also got a decent website to look up different sizes and what not.
 
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mryanangel

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Check out Solberg intake filters and silencers. They seem to be reasonably priced on Amazon. I'm going to order one for my Rolair soon. I believe most of them are also a form of a tube silencer as well...They also got a decent website to look up different sizes and what not.
I will look these up, thanks.

Does anyone know the thread size in the head for the air filter?

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Todd.Brock

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Re your pressure switch. - I used an on/off/auto switch that allows me to essentially disconnect the pressure switch from making contact when I don't want it to run.
 
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mryanangel

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The air intake is 1" NPTF, and the outlet is 3/4" NPTF.
Thanks. Last night I took a,pair of calipers to measure the air inlet port and came to the same conclusion..1" FPT.

I have a big square D starter with an Off/Auto switch. The off, interrupts the pressure switch circuit so I can prevent the compressor from running

I haven't measured the pressure switch port...it looks like 1/4" NPT...is that right?

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mryanangel

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So I put on a new air filter, changed the oil, gave it a paint job, installed a new single phase 5hp marathon motor, ran a 50amp circuit to my new magnetic starter, replaced the pressue guage with a 200 psi liquid filled one and fired her up. Good news is she builds and hold air. The pressue switch cuts out at 145psi. What I am concerned with is that knocking sound. Not being overly familiar with these pumps, I am not sure if this is an expected sound, or an indication that sonething is in need of a rebuild. What do you guys think.


Location: Chester, NJ
 
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rustyjames

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You definitely have something going on in the crankcase, I can tell you that. I have a 325 and it doesn't sound like that. I'd pull the crankcase cove of and check for a loose rod cap.
 
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mryanangel

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You definitely have something going on in the crankcase, I can tell you that. I have a 325 and it doesn't sound like that. I'd pull the crankcase cove of and check for a loose rod cap.
I'll pull the cover tomorrow and take a look. A Loose bearing cap wouldn't be too bad, I have a feeling it maybe something more sinister though.

Location: Chester, NJ
 

Strouty

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I am going to be setting my compressor up soon and I hope that I get lucky, I figure I can try it out first and see. It makes similar sounds to what yours did in the original video. Make sure to update the thread with what you find.
 

icedoc

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Definitely does not sound good. Check for slop in the wrist pin by turning the crank back and forth while monitoring the piston motion (you may need a small mirror to help); if the crank turns any appreciable amount without piston motion, you're in trouble.

I bought my Quincy for dirt cheap due to the reasons you can see below in the pictures. Lack of lubrication and/or dirty oil led to wear between the piston and pin (since the pin is hardened, it won). Once a little slop develops, it just beats itself to death. The connecting rods are aluminum and eventually surpassed their fatigue life due to the added impact loading.

Hopefully yours isn't as bad as mine was. The good news is, all these parts are readily available from Quincy (or others). The bad news is, they are really expensive.





 
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mryanangel

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Wow, your connecting rod was in pretty rough shape. If you don't mind me asking, how much did you have to invest to rebuild your compressor?

Location: Chester, NJ
 
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mryanangel

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I am going to be setting my compressor up soon and I hope that I get lucky, I figure I can try it out first and see. It makes similar sounds to what yours did in the original video. Make sure to update the thread with what you find.
I will post up what I find and ultimately how I fix it.

Location: Chester, NJ
 

icedoc

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Wow, your connecting rod was in pretty rough shape. If you don't mind me asking, how much did you have to invest to rebuild your compressor?

Location: Chester, NJ

Yes, never good when the connecting rod comes out in multiple pieces. I think I had between $400-500 into the pump rebuild by the time I was done. Luckily, one of the members on here was willing to help me out and gave me an old pump that had a good piston and connecting rod in it. Otherwise, as I recall, the connecting rod alone would have been several hundred from Quincy.

For what it's worth, I don't regret a single penny I spent on rebuilding that Quincy.
 
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mryanangel

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Yes, never good when the connecting rod comes out in multiple pieces. I think I had between $400-500 into the pump rebuild by the time I was done. Luckily, one of the members on here was willing to help me out and gave me an old pump that had a good piston and connecting rod in it. Otherwise, as I recall, the connecting rod alone would have been several hundred from Quincy.

For what it's worth, I don't regret a single penny I spent on rebuilding that Quincy.
If I can get away with $500 I'll be happy. If I have to drop another grand to get this right, I'll be less happy but deal with it. Is there a good rebuild thread or service manual out there that anyone is aware of? My ROC is 104.

Location: Chester, NJ
 
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mryanangel

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Also check your belt tension. It appears to be low - I see a lot of vibration in the lower belt.
When I first started the motor up it was slipping, so I tightened the belt today before making this video. It isn't slipping any longer.

Location: Chester, NJ
 

metalmagpie

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Former Quincy 325 owner. Whoever told you the noise in your first video was normal was wrong. The deep groaning noise is normal. The high frequency skritching noises are not. My guess is you have one or more failed wrist pin bearings.

Quincy 325s are easy to work on. I have a suggestion. Find out who does your local Quincy parts/service and go have a face-to-face talk with their service manager. Those guys know *everything* about Quincy pumps. As soon as they figure out you aren't a company looking to pay $2k to have them do a full rebuild they will go into helpful mode. My local place is awesome. They have a boneyard of 325 parts and they'd let me pick through it when I needed to.

All of their service manuals are online. Sure wish everyone did that! Quincy is a great company to work with.

metalmagpie
 

Avispex

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Jul 21, 2012
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I'm not sure what ever ended up happening with your pump, but your flywheel seems to be from a different Quincy compressor or something. It may mean it was rotating too quickly. I think the normal ones for a 325 ROC 104 are about 16" diameter and have two belt grooves. Yours looks closer to 12", but that may just be a trick of the camera perspective. If you did get it fixed and running I would love to learn what you found out was making the clacking noises and how you fixed it.

Thanks,

Andy
 
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mryanangel

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So I ended up taking a job in UT in early 2018, spent a year flying back and forth every week, before moving the family out there in March 2019. Since we were renting a place, I put the 325 into storage, where it has sat until a few months ago when we finally finished building our new home. I am getting my new garage sorted out, and it just about time to get this compressor rebuilt. I think this is going to be the most drawn out rebuild thread in history.
 
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