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Quincy compressor, what do I have?

T.Hadley

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Nov 18, 2009
Messages
57
Location
Lake Tapps WA.
I hope some of you compressor guys can help me learn about what I bought.
The tag is missing :( So here's what I have to go on.

2 CYL, 2 HP 1730 RPM, the flywheel od 12"

Tank looks to be about 60 gal, here's the tag on it
109-0993_IMG.jpg


It has no Pressure Switch...:headscrat I would like it to have one, but how do I plumb it in?

What is this (in red) and what do these adjust(in blue)

WHATISIT.jpg


A cast in number on the pump
109-0997_IMG.jpg


on the head
109-0996_IMG.jpg


Also what is this?

WHATISTHISALSO.jpg


109-0991_IMG.jpg


109-0998_IMG.jpg
 
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Kev442

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Jan 15, 2009
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Wi
I think if you email Quincy with the subject: Can you help with my 1939 Quincy? You will some attention.
 

4StarCstms

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Mar 14, 2008
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Location
Kentucky
Quincy used to have great customer service.. I dont know if its that way anymore. years ago our shop bought one of the Old screw compressors that came outta a toyota plant (the one in calif. that made the truck beds) It was one of three that ran the WHOLE plant.. worked great for years, but when it went down..man was it spendy to fix! Quincy was a big help in getting it back up, and finding us qualified people to come fix it.

Cool old Quincy...they sure dont make stuff like they used to!
 

sstruckguy

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Sep 1, 2008
Messages
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Location
Paducah, KY
That looks like an old "208", single stage pump. The pressure switch is a must and needs to be added.

If you don't need a high demand or high pressure situation, this pump will keep up with anything you will throw at it.

If it actually needs repair, be prepared to shell out some dollars. Quincy's aren't cheap to fix or repair, but they will give you un-matched service.(bar none)
 

JBurgess

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Mar 1, 2008
Messages
372
Location
Arizona
Can you post a better picture of this area? It's an unloader type, so it may have come with a gas engine originally.

WHATISIT.jpg
 
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T.Hadley

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Nov 18, 2009
Messages
57
Location
Lake Tapps WA.
So does this mean its a 208

109-1000_IMG.jpg



Here are some more pics of what ever this is... I'm guessing that its some type of un-loader for start up, so when I put a Pressure Switch on it there is no need to plumb in the head un-loader..?
110-1001_IMG.jpg

110-1002_IMG.jpg

110-1003_IMG.jpg

110-1004_IMG.jpg
 

JBurgess

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Mar 1, 2008
Messages
372
Location
Arizona
It looks like the 206/208/210 family.

Here's a link to the quincy site:
http://www.quincycompressor.com/index.html

My local dealer e-mailed me pdf of the manual for my 325 at no charge. Hopefully he can help you figure out the model and change of record for yours by some of the part numbers showing.

THe parts book will show how the plumbing is different for piolot (continous running) or hydraulic unloading (loadless starting). With a pressure switch you need hydraulic unloading.

This not for your compressor, bu should give you an idea in the different plumbing.
control.jpg

Sorry can't be of much more help than that. Looks like a neat project.
 
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T.Hadley

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Nov 18, 2009
Messages
57
Location
Lake Tapps WA.
The pic with the PILOT ONLY looks like that thing on mine, so with that set up there is no pressure switch? it just runs all the time, that's lame...

Is there any reason you couldn't put a pressure switch on it, and hook the line from the head to the un-loader on the pressure switch?

T.
 

sstruckguy

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Messages
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Location
Paducah, KY
T,Hadley: The unloader that many have referred to (actually called a VD pilot) was meant for continuous running(like on a mobile tire truck) When the tank meets the pressure setting, the pump goes into an idle state and the gas engine idles. When air is used, the pilot releases pressure from the valves and also raises the gas engine R.P.M to start pumping again.

It has been 20 years since I actually worked on compressors, but if I remember correctly, all you really need is a 3-way valve,(Quincy item) a pressure switch, and some copper tubing to make this change over.
 
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Charles (in GA)

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50 mi south of Atlanta
Pressure lubed pump. When it starts up, the oil pressure in the pump (for the crank and rods) builds up, then forces the unloader valve closed, and the pump starts building pressure. When the pump shuts down (via pressure switch) the oil pressure falls off to zero, and the unloader valve is no longer held closed and it opens, dumping the head pressure in preparation for the next start. Pretty simple actually.

Charles
 
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T.Hadley

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Joined
Nov 18, 2009
Messages
57
Location
Lake Tapps WA.
Pressure lubed pump. When it starts up, the oil pressure in the pump (for the crank and rods) builds up, then forces the unloader valve closed, and the pump starts building pressure. When the pump shuts down (via pressure switch) the oil pressure falls off to zero, and the unloader valve is no longer held closed and it opens, dumping the head pressure in preparation for the next start. Pretty simple actually.

Charles

That seems to be how it works today I put a pressure switch on it, with everything else the same and it seems to work just fine I have it set for 130 PSI cut out and 95 PSI cut in, the first time it shut off I unpluged it and turned the flywheel by hand to see if there was any pressure in the heads and there was not. and it seems to cycle on nd off just fine.

New issue, I think the pump is turning to slow, it took about 20 mins to fill the tank from 0, to 130 psi, 12" flywheel 3" motor pulley, anyone know how to get the flywheel rpm from that, also is there any way to tell if the pump or valves need work.?

Thanks' T.
 

daw53

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Nov 8, 2007
Messages
46
Location
Ohio
New issue, I think the pump is turning to slow, it took about 20 mins to fill the tank from 0, to 130 psi, 12" flywheel 3" motor pulley, anyone know how to get the flywheel rpm from that,

Sure, multiply the motor speed (1730 rpm) by the motor pulley dia (3") and divide by the flywheel diameter (12"). I get 432.5 rpm. Which I think may be too slow as well. The Quincy QT-5 series low end is something like 800-900rpm if I recall correctly - but it is splash lubricated. I think someone else pointed out that this one is pressure lube, so I'm not sure about this model.

- David
 

JBurgess

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Mar 1, 2008
Messages
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Arizona
For my 325 which is pressure lubed the manual says this about speed:

MINIMUM SPEED 400 RPM MAXIMUM SPEED 900 RPM
FOR ANY DEVIATION FROM THE ABOVE CONSULT THE
FACTORY

It would be good to check the current draw on the motor to see how loaded it is. You do not want to exceed the name plate current when at full pressure.

My QT 5 runs at 940 RPM, but as mentioned it is splash lubricated.

On edit:

Assuming you are running a B series belt I get the speed as follows

3” OD pulley effective diameter 2.65”
12” OD pulley effective diameter 11.65”

1730 * 2.65 / 11.65 = 393.5 RPM.
 
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T.Hadley

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Nov 18, 2009
Messages
57
Location
Lake Tapps WA.
Thanks, and that is really slow, so by checking the current you mean max amps at full load near shut off?



For my 325 which is pressure lubed the manual says this about speed:

MINIMUM SPEED 400 RPM MAXIMUM SPEED 900 RPM
FOR ANY DEVIATION FROM THE ABOVE CONSULT THE
FACTORY

It would be good to check the current draw on the motor to see how loaded it is. You do not want to exceed the name plate current when at full pressure.

My QT 5 runs at 940 RPM, but as mentioned it is splash lubricated.

On edit:

Assuming you are running a B series belt I get the speed as follows

3” OD pulley effective diameter 2.65”
12” OD pulley effective diameter 11.65”

1730 * 2.65 / 11.65 = 393.5 RPM.
 

JBurgess

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Mar 1, 2008
Messages
372
Location
Arizona
Thanks, and that is really slow, so by checking the current you mean max amps at full load near shut off?

Yes. Being conservative it should max out at the name plate current.

Not being conservative, it would max out at the nameplate current times the service factor.

If your motor does not have overload protection, I would stay with conservative.
 
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T.Hadley

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Nov 18, 2009
Messages
57
Location
Lake Tapps WA.
IT hit's 10.7 amps just before shut off, and if I'm reading the motor tag correctly I'm good for 40 amps? so I'm thinking a 4 or 5" motor pulley to speed up the pump some.

Anyone know how you check the condition of the pump, compression gauge maybe?
 

JBurgess

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Mar 1, 2008
Messages
372
Location
Arizona
IT hit's 10.7 amps just before shut off, and if I'm reading the motor tag correctly I'm good for 40 amps? so I'm thinking a 4 or 5" motor pulley to speed up the pump some.

Anyone know how you check the condition of the pump, compression gauge maybe?

I see it as 11.6 amps if your running 230 volts.

109-0998_IMG.jpg


As for the compression guage, well that's the guage on your tank!

You might check for exsessive blowby coming out the hole for the dipstick to see if the rings are leaking.

On edit:

The tag say MAX AMB 40 C, I can see how looks like AMP instead of AMB, that's max tempature for the air around the motor.
 
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T.Hadley

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Nov 18, 2009
Messages
57
Location
Lake Tapps WA.
OK, well that don't leave me much room to speed the pump up, this thing fill's really slow.

Thank you very much for your input.

Torry
 
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