I'm considering purchasing a used "Quincy" compressor. Info from the seller is that it is a single phase 1.5 HP motor and 60 gal tank. Seller says it spins freely but won't kick on. I know it could be any number of things but given the seller's asking price, it may be worth the drive and effort. I've attached a picture. Can anyone shed some light on the potential model or other info about this compressor? Thanks.
Quincy Compressor
- Thread starter Sigo
- Start date
rmack898
Well-known member
That is a low RPM, bulletproof compressor. Whatever is wrong with it can be fixed as parts are available. Since it's not running you should be able to negotiate a good deal.
Mac, thanks for the feedback. How about $75? Do you happen to know anything about it? Is it a single or two stage, model #, etc?
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seber
Well-known member
Not starting is most likely a bad pressure switch. If that is the problem it's a really cheap fix. Even a used motor can often be found for very little.
jrsulo
Well-known member
For $75 it would be on my truck already !!!!!!!
redmondjp
Well-known member
Looks like it might be a model 210 pump. As stated above, buy it already!
safetyman665
Well-known member
Where is this compressor listed again? I'll be right over...
AP2TUDE
Well-known member
DUDE. $75. SERIOUSLY!!!
Just buy it and figure it out later. Holy ****. Run. Now.
Here is a comparable, although obviously new example. It's $900.
Just buy it and figure it out later. Holy ****. Run. Now.
Here is a comparable, although obviously new example. It's $900.
redmondjp
Well-known member
Not so fast there! You are comparing apples to oranges. The Northern Tool example has splash-lubrication and reed valves. I was originally going to say that it was from their QT series (all cast-iron, splash-lubricated), but from that picture, it appears that Quincy may have switched over to using an ABAC/American IMC pump (or a clone of one). This Northern Tool unit is closer to a Harbor Freight unit than to any of the 'true' Quincys IMO.
The pump on the unit the OP is considering is from their industrial-duty QR series, and has pressure lubrication and poppet valves. If my eyeball approximation of the pump size is correct, it's a Quincy 210 (base dimensions of 7" x 13") which puts out 6.34acfm at maximum pump speed of 1000rpm, using a 2HP motor. This is less than half of the output of the unit linked above.
The next sized larger pump in the QR line is the 216, which can put out 10.7acfm @ 900rpm using a 3HP motor. The base dimensions on that pump are 17" x 13". From the picture, it doesn't appear that the pump is that big.
sberry
Banned
This is 2 stage correct"
AP2TUDE
Well-known member
Oh, I know that it wasn't an apples to oranges comparison; that wasn't my point.
My point was that even the Northern Tool example, which is significantly lacking in quality compared to the one he showed, is still $900. I could have searched harder for something which would be a more accurate representation, but I felt that the "$900 vs $75" was still drastic enough to serve as a proper example of the value he is getting.
My point was that even the Northern Tool example, which is significantly lacking in quality compared to the one he showed, is still $900. I could have searched harder for something which would be a more accurate representation, but I felt that the "$900 vs $75" was still drastic enough to serve as a proper example of the value he is getting.
redmondjp
Well-known member
After more internet picture-hunting, I think you're right - this looks like it is an early Quincy 310 pump, although I can't see if there is an intercooler in the OP's picture.
Another oddball option - a Quincy 212.
It looks like the pump pictured in this thead:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/help-needed-identify-quincy-compressor-268597/
jrsulo
Well-known member
Looks like a 210
For $75 the only thing that would keep me from buying it is if the pump won't spin by hand. But when checking it out remember to open the tank drain and if rusty water comes out mention that the tank might be rusted out then put $50 on the table and see if the seller will take it.
Yes, I am a cheapskake!
Yes, I am a cheapskake!
md21722
Well-known member
I wouldn't pay a $1 for a compressor that wouldn't meet my needs unless I was considering on its resale value. 1.5 HP motor and pump ain't gonna do much! If its your first dual stage then it'll get your feet wet for later 5-7.5-10HP dual stage units. Once you go dual stage you don't go back...
jrsulo
Well-known member
Bump........So did you get it ?????
I'm back. I picked up the compressor yesterday morning about an hour away. Borrowed a neighbors trailer and carried it upright strapped down in four locations. The previous owner said it wouldn't start up and I mentioned it may be a bad pressure switch. He told me he jumped around it. I checked to make sure it wasn't seized and it turned freely. All went well getting it home. Had to stop twice as the bottom of the compressor kept walking on the trailer and I did not want that beast to topple over. Had two of my boys help me unload it and get it sitting in the shop.
This morning, I went out to piddle with it. Hooked it up to a 30A 220V breaker and nothing. I checked the continuity between the line and motor contacts - good for one pair but not the other. Wired the motor direct and she fired right up when I flipped the breaker (this is just a temporary connection until I figure out where I want this to live). It does build pressure but not fast. I ran it up to 60 pounds and that took a couple of minutes, slower but much more quiet than my old 33 gal. Craftsman oil-less direct drive. So I'm thinking it is just a bad pressure switch. I don't know if I can rebuild it or if I should just buy new. The compressor doesn't have an on/off switch so I'm thinking I'll just buy a replacement. Oh, and since this thread would be worthless without pics, some are attached.
The pump is a Quincy 310 and the motor is a 1.5 hp Century currently wired for 220. No markings on the tank but the gauge face is cracked and goes up to 300 lbs. If I decided to refurbish the compressor, I think I will want to pressure test the tank (probably at home using the grease gun method) and replace the relief valve. My next move will be to clean up the unit as it's pretty grungy at the moment.
I'd love to have a manual for the pump. Would appreciate everyone's thoughts before I proceed.
This morning, I went out to piddle with it. Hooked it up to a 30A 220V breaker and nothing. I checked the continuity between the line and motor contacts - good for one pair but not the other. Wired the motor direct and she fired right up when I flipped the breaker (this is just a temporary connection until I figure out where I want this to live). It does build pressure but not fast. I ran it up to 60 pounds and that took a couple of minutes, slower but much more quiet than my old 33 gal. Craftsman oil-less direct drive. So I'm thinking it is just a bad pressure switch. I don't know if I can rebuild it or if I should just buy new. The compressor doesn't have an on/off switch so I'm thinking I'll just buy a replacement. Oh, and since this thread would be worthless without pics, some are attached.
The pump is a Quincy 310 and the motor is a 1.5 hp Century currently wired for 220. No markings on the tank but the gauge face is cracked and goes up to 300 lbs. If I decided to refurbish the compressor, I think I will want to pressure test the tank (probably at home using the grease gun method) and replace the relief valve. My next move will be to clean up the unit as it's pretty grungy at the moment.
I'd love to have a manual for the pump. Would appreciate everyone's thoughts before I proceed.
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I posted a video on youtube of it running. Would appreciate your thoughts on the sound of it running - any unusual noises, etc. The previous owner mentioned that there was possible a loose wrist pin but I'm not certain I hear anything. Of course, I'm deaf in one ear and can't hear out of the other.
Dr Stan
Well-known member
The Quincy air compressors have a reputation of being the most rebuild-able pumps on the market.
Ya done good.
At some point someone went mad with gold spray paint, probably from a rattle can. Since it is not located in it's spot take time to return it to Quincy blue, or similar shade.
BTW, I use Royal Purple oil in my Champion.
On edit: The Quincy home page has a lot of info including a number of manuals. I recommend checking there for assistance.
Ya done good.
At some point someone went mad with gold spray paint, probably from a rattle can. Since it is not located in it's spot take time to return it to Quincy blue, or similar shade.
BTW, I use Royal Purple oil in my Champion.
On edit: The Quincy home page has a lot of info including a number of manuals. I recommend checking there for assistance.
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Dr Stan
Well-known member
Here are just two places to find disconnect switches.
https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...nnect)/Enclosed_Toggle_-a-_Rotary_Controllers
https://www.mcmaster.com/#power-disconnects/=15843mx
My guess is that there are multiple other sites, but I've dealt with both companies W/O issues.
For paint try one of the big box stores, Rural King especially if it is in your neck of the woods.
https://www.automationdirect.com/ad...nnect)/Enclosed_Toggle_-a-_Rotary_Controllers
https://www.mcmaster.com/#power-disconnects/=15843mx
My guess is that there are multiple other sites, but I've dealt with both companies W/O issues.
For paint try one of the big box stores, Rural King especially if it is in your neck of the woods.
jrsulo
Well-known member
I bought mine on ebay as I had to kill the old unloader on my 1959 Curtis,,,,,too many parts were missing.
DougWil
Well-known member
If you have any doubts I would tear into it, inspect everything and put new gaskets, seals, rings and lower connecting rod bearings in it.
That way you know what you have and don't have to worry if a failing wrist pin is going to destroy the compressor.
chrispyny
Well-known member
I would clean up the head. Replace reed valves, or lap the valves if they are of the round type. Buy new pressure switch, paint with quincy blue, pressure test tank, pretty her up and keep her going.
New quincy blue here.. http://www.compressorparts.com/quincy-paint-quincy-blue-ii-12oz-can-125244-129-genuine-oem
Old quincy blue at same site. Your call as to which you like. I like the new.
New quincy blue here.. http://www.compressorparts.com/quincy-paint-quincy-blue-ii-12oz-can-125244-129-genuine-oem
Old quincy blue at same site. Your call as to which you like. I like the new.
Dr Stan
Well-known member
Quincy is known for high prices, but $34 + change for 12oz of paint?
Find a pic of a Quincy online, print it out and take it to one of the big box stores and see if any of their industrial paints comes close. 2nd option is to visit a auto paint store and see how much they'd charge for a gallon. You don't need that much, but keep it around for future projects.
BTW, the mill in my avatar was painted with 5, yes 5, coats of Rust-Oleum Industrial Grey.
I also agree with the past two posters. Now is the perfect time, not when you need it and its gone down.
Find a pic of a Quincy online, print it out and take it to one of the big box stores and see if any of their industrial paints comes close. 2nd option is to visit a auto paint store and see how much they'd charge for a gallon. You don't need that much, but keep it around for future projects.
BTW, the mill in my avatar was painted with 5, yes 5, coats of Rust-Oleum Industrial Grey.
I also agree with the past two posters. Now is the perfect time, not when you need it and its gone down.
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chrispyny
Well-known member
I agree. Total rip off. But i bought one can to touch up my pump and tank as i purchased them lightly used as part of an auction.
The issue is, if you match the color at an auto paint store, and have them fill aerosol cans for you, you will pay around $35 anyway. I know, i work right next to a major paint supply for most of the capital district in albany ny. Once i priced out one can locally for $35, i figured a proper match from factory was warranted.
The issue is, if you match the color at an auto paint store, and have them fill aerosol cans for you, you will pay around $35 anyway. I know, i work right next to a major paint supply for most of the capital district in albany ny. Once i priced out one can locally for $35, i figured a proper match from factory was warranted.
So I've been cleaning it up a bit and started blasting some small parts. I was actually using the compressor and a table top HF blast cabinet. The pressure was up to 150 and the compressor had no problem keeping up. I was going to blast the air cleaner housing but noticed it had quite a bit of oil in the bottom and the air filter was soaked in oil.
What would have caused this?
What primer do you recommend for the bare metal? Self-etching rustoleum?? I will just rattle can the primer.
What would have caused this?
What primer do you recommend for the bare metal? Self-etching rustoleum?? I will just rattle can the primer.
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redmondjp
Well-known member
Congratulations! Glad to hear that it is indeed a 310 (two-stage) instead of a single-stage pump.
Check what your pump RPM is at now by measuring your pulleys and doing the math. The 310 pump can run up to 920RPM with a 3HP motor, giving 9.6 ACFM @ 175psi. The flow will be higher at lower pressures. Personally, I'd set up the controls to turn on at 120-130psi and turn off at 150-160psi.
Chances are, you're running the pump at around 400RPM now (but check and post back), so if you can find a true 3HP or even 5HP motor, that would be a significant upgrade in flow for your unit.
And here's a really nice thing - the motors used on consumer-grade formerly-listed-as-5HP compressors, which are actually just a tad over 3HP - one of those would work perfectly for your unit and they are pretty common.
Check what your pump RPM is at now by measuring your pulleys and doing the math. The 310 pump can run up to 920RPM with a 3HP motor, giving 9.6 ACFM @ 175psi. The flow will be higher at lower pressures. Personally, I'd set up the controls to turn on at 120-130psi and turn off at 150-160psi.
Chances are, you're running the pump at around 400RPM now (but check and post back), so if you can find a true 3HP or even 5HP motor, that would be a significant upgrade in flow for your unit.
And here's a really nice thing - the motors used on consumer-grade formerly-listed-as-5HP compressors, which are actually just a tad over 3HP - one of those would work perfectly for your unit and they are pretty common.
DougWil
Well-known member
Compressor oil is blowing past the rings, though the intake valve and into the air filter.
You need to overhaul his pump and stop running it before you cause some very expensive damage.
Dr Stan
Well-known member
Yep. Send for an overhaul kit.
BTW, I've purchased electric motors (and other stuff) from the Surpluscenter.com. They usually have better prices on electric motors.
justanengineer
Well-known member
I disagree. The compressor was assembled from a mismatch of parts and thats very likely an oil-bath air filter.
DougWil
Well-known member
You are right, I didn't look again at the pics.
Regardless the PO believed it was developing wrist pin issues and it is a very old compressor. I would go through it.
I just tore down a 1972 Saylor Beall 705, the 2nd stage wrist pin had hogged out the piston and rod bushing. The only thing keeping it from sliding out and gouging the cylinder and scrapping it was luck and the ridge that the hogging created.
Getting a high quality compressor for $75 or $150 (in my case) and putting another couple of hundred into it, knowing that everything is in good shape, no longer leaks oil and knowing it will last decades if maintained is cheap in my opinion.
I took a couple of measurements last night. The pullies are 4" and 14". These are the outside dimensions. From eye-balling it with a tape measure, it looks to be about 3.5" and 13.5" where the belt runs. RPM of the motor is 1750 (per the data plate). So the pump is running at 450-500 RPM. The 1.5 HP motor seems to run the pump without any issues. What would going to a higher HP bring to the table, increased RPM?
I contacted Quincy for some literature. They had a manual for a Model 310 with a record of change 100. Mine is a record of change 21. I did some comparing and they are some differences. If anyone has any literature for this specific pump, I'd appreciate it if you'd PM me. **edit** I looked again at Qunicy's site and found a parts manual for a 310 with a Record of Change 22. It's not nearly as good quality as the one sent from the Record of Change 100 but it's closer to the model I have. ** end edit**
Any recommendations as to where I could purchase these parts?
Per the manual that I got from Quincy, the valves are round. I've never lapped valves before so I'll research that and, if within my skill-set, lap them. If not, I'll plan to purchase a new set. I'm still looking for a pressure switch. I'm also concerned about the oil in the air filter. The diagram from Quincy is different than my model so I'm not sure what to do at this point. Pics are attached.
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redmondjp
Well-known member
Can you post a picture of the inside of the air filter? As stated above, it's very likely an oil-bath air filter. This type of filter was used well into the 1960s - I had Toro lawn mowers as a kid that were equipped with one - ticked me off to no end, because I would forget about the oil in there and tip the mower up to clean out the deck or change the blade and get oil all over.
roblouvasz
Well-known member
I used Krylon's True Blue I believe from Walmart to paint a guard I made for a used Quincy I bought. I think it was $5 a can.