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Quincy compressor

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Feb 20, 2019
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So i just picked up a quincy. My questions are for the oil. First what should i run in it? I know they recommend sae 30 and i believe non detergent. This compressor is gonna be stored outside. The 30 is only good to 32 and recommend to go to 20 wt below. What is others using in this situation? The other question is can a oil filter be added to the rear of the compressor like ive seen in some pictures and how do i go about it? I have the 325.
 
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pcmeiners

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The Tool Tyrant

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So i just picked up a quincy. My questions are for the oil. First what should i run in it? I know they recommend sae 30 and i believe non detergent. This compressor is gonna be stored outside. The 30 is only good to 32 and recommend to go to 20 wt below. What is others using in this situation? The other question is can a oil filter be added to the rear of the compressor like ive seen in some pictures and how do i go about it? I have the 325.

I can't help you regarding oil as I live in San Diego and have no experience with those temps. Regarding the oil filter, yes you can add one. In my manual, it's part # 110813-001 (oil pump housing). I believe it's the same housing, just drilled and taped to accept the hollow filter mounting stud, part # 110825, along with an oil return hole. I also have a couple of non-filtered Quincy pumps and the housing looks exactly like the filtered housing except for as I described above, including the filter sealing surface and the raised center casting where the hollow stud would be located.

Also ive noticed its the model with a unloader on each head. How do i tell if its a ls style on lvd?

As far as I can figure the ONLY difference is that the 'LVD' includes a 'lockout' valve, so you can run it in either 'STOP / START mode or LOAD /UNLOAD mode.

If you haven't already, note the ROC (Record Of Change) number next to the 'Model' number and go to the Quincy website and download the correct parts manual for your pump.
 
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M
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I can't help you regarding oil as I live in San Diego and have no experience with those temps. Regarding the oil filter, yes you can add one. In my manual, it's part # 110813-001 (oil pump housing). I believe it's the same housing, just drilled and taped to accept the hollow filter mounting stud, part # 110825, along with an oil return hole. I also have a couple of non-filtered Quincy pumps and the housing looks exactly like the filtered housing except for as I described above, including the filter sealing surface and the raised center casting where the hollow stud would be located.



I found this on another page of this site. Sounds like its doable. Problem is finding one thats cheap.

" Oil filter
Quincy 325 compressors can be found with or without an oil filter housing. While all other parts of the compressor appear to be the same, the main difference is the front bearing carrier. This part does not allow for an oil filter housing, or filter to be installed in most cases. In order to convert your "non filtered" unit to a filtered one, this carrier must be changed. ALL 325 compressors are pressure lubricated, wether it has a filter or not, the filter just adds longevity to the compressor and oil change intervals. To my knowledge, all new 325 units ship with filter housings."

As for the control, im confused on it cause i did pull the paperwork and it shows all 3 control methods but none look like whats on mine. It comes from the bottom of the tank, feeds a check valve, then some part which i can identify. It doesnt look like any valve quincy shows to use. it has a hole in the side of which i can see in. Theres 2 set screws inside but the only way to access them is to pull the entire thing apart. I can post a pic if needed.
 
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Heres what it looks like. Its the same color blue as the tank so im assuming orginal. Date on the tank is 1975.
 

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The Tool Tyrant

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Looks like a pilot valve to me. It's used to release the compressed air from the pump into the atmosphere, in other words, the pump continues to run, but no air goes into the receiver. It's known as 'continuous run'.
Only thing is that the line would not be coming from the bottom of the receiver. It may be some sort of automatic receiver drain. Where does the opposite end go to?
 
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OP
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It flows, receiver to single check, to that part, to the top of the unloader assembly. Basically it bypasses the hydro unloader.
 

The Tool Tyrant

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It flows, receiver to single check, to that part, to the top of the unloader assembly. Basically it bypasses the hydro unloader.

I would have to assume that it's an auto drain that operates when the pump unloads...basically like the auto drain system that Champion uses. I see no other logical reason...especially since it's plumbed into the BOTTOM of the receiver. :headscrat
Go ahead and get the compressor up and running and see if it opens when the pump unloads.
 
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Then right now theres no pilot valve in the system. Im guessing it will now only unload when it starts up and shuts off. Hopefully i will have it up and running tomorrow. I changed the oil which looked brand new. Im starting to wonder if the mystery part is a 3 way check which the previous owner didnt understand and perhaps im just missing the pilot valve. The mystery part is painted blue but some of the other fitting are not and same with the single check is not original.
 

The Tool Tyrant

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Then right now theres no pilot valve in the system. Im guessing it will now only unload when it starts up and shuts off. Hopefully i will have it up and running tomorrow. I changed the oil which looked brand new. Im starting to wonder if the mystery part is a 3 way check which the previous owner didnt understand and perhaps im just missing the pilot valve. The mystery part is painted blue but some of the other fitting are not and same with the single check is not original.

The factory would NEVER plumb a control line from the BOTTOM of the tank where all the condensation accumulates. :shocking:
 
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I finally got it running today. First issue i had was i wasnt getting oil pressure. Not sure exactly what caused it. I had gotten the compressor and tank at the local scrap yard. When i found it, it was upside down. After brought it home and checked oil lever-ok. Changed the oil anyway to be safe which oil looked brand new. After trying to run the compressor multiple times i couldnt get pressure. I even pulled the gauge and got nothing. I pulled the pump cover and checked everything looked good. Today i pulled the cover again and put some petroleum jelly in it. Also today is probably 20 degrees warmer then the other day. I got pressure and got everything running. All i can say for the part unidentified is i think it might be some sort of factory drain. While the compressor is running its leaking air from the port. Once it shuts off and unloads it still leaks some but less i still think im gonna replace it with a automatic bleed.
 
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