Quincy Compressor

[Cruzan80]

If you used the 10HP pulley on a 7.5HP motor, with the same motor RPM, it will spin the pump at the same RPM. But it will lack the power to handle the very top end of the pressure repeatedly. This will probably damage the motor in the long run.

This is why the 7.5HP RPM rating (at the pump) is lower. The only way to lower the RPM is to swap out a pulley for a different size, or get a motor that has a different RPM (made that way). So to use a 7.5HP motor, you need a different pulley (use the calc link to figure out a close size).

 

[JHForman]

If you used the 10HP pulley on a 7.5HP motor, with the same motor RPM, it will spin the pump at the same RPM. But it will lack the power to handle the very top end of the pressure repeatedly. This will probably damage the motor in the long run.

This is why the 7.5HP RPM rating (at the pump) is lower. The only way to lower the RPM is to swap out a pulley for a different size, or get a motor that has a different RPM (made that way). So to use a 7.5HP motor, you need a different pulley (use the calc link to figure out a close size).

Thank you for the explanation. I am shopping pulleys now actually.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Before you go any further...that is a 200 volt motor. It will be okay at 208 volts, but 230 volts will kill it in short time. You will want to add a buck transformer to get your input voltage down.

 

[JHForman]

Before you go any further...that is a 200 volt motor. It will be okay at 208 volts, but 230 volts will kill it in short time. You will want to add a buck transformer to get your input voltage down.

as of now im not planning to use the 10HP 200V one. I will be switching to a 208-230v single phase 7.5HP I think.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

208 volt is 3 phase. You want 230 volt single phase.

 

[Cruzan80]

Please read the thread. We have been over this before. He is swapping a 200V 3ph 10hp motor for a 240V 1ph 7.5HP motor, and reducing the RPM of the pump head to match.

Not sure why this got so complicated...

 

[JHForman]

208 volt is 3 phase. You want 230 volt single phase.

7.5 HP Air Compressor Duty Electric Motor 215T Frame 1760 RPM Single Phase WEG

7.5 HP 215T Single Phase 1760 RPM WEG Electric Motor This listing is for a brand new WEG 7.5 horsepower air compressor motor model number 00718OS1CCD215T, this motor is 208-230 volt, 33.00-31.40 AMPS, 60 Hz, 215TFrame, single phase, 1-3/8" diameter shaft, and 1760 RPM. This motor is specifically...

robidouxinc.com

That is the motor im considering replaceing the 10HP 3PH with?

 

[Cruzan80]

Yes, that will work. Just make sure to do the math to drop the pump RPM to the right amount. Frame size is the same, so should bolt right on. 31.4A running means #8 NM-B on a 40A breaker, IIRC (or #10 for THHN-2).

 

[JHForman]

Ok guys. I know this is part of the unloader system. Do I need to do anything with this valve? or just leave it open?

 

[Death Row Dave]

Another thing that you need to think about is the type of after cooler you are going to be using . The after cooler is missing and compressor is piped directly to the receiver tank . This is ok , to cool after the tank , but the tank will have a major amount of water in it after only a short run and really needs automatic drain system installed

 

[JHForman]

Another thing that you need to think about is the type of after cooler you are going to be using . The after cooler is missing and compressor is piped directly to the receiver tank . This is ok , to cool after the tank , but the tank will have a major amount of water in it after only a short run and really needs automatic drain system installed

has it been removed? did it have one to begin with?

 

[Death Row Dave]

I have currently a Quincy compressor in my shop . I have worked on compressors all my working days 36 years in gas transmission field of work . We had 8 very large Clark compressors to maintain yearly . When I say large , the smallest had 8 ends of compression at 207 MCFH , per end . 1750 HP synchronized electric motor 327 RPM , low pressure piston bore 32 in , high pressure piston bore 17 in . , discharging into 5000 gal receiver , into 26 in product pipeline . These were the smallest , the largest had 22 ends of compression . We had 8 compressors , similar to your purchase used to unload the valves on the process compressors to allow them to start . Each valve assembly weighted 108 lbs each . If you have ever seen or worked on one of these , you will understand why my body is a broken mess from pulling maintenance yearly on these monsters . The valves had to be removed and replaced by “ one man “ standing on his head ! There was no room for two men to get into the area between the heads to work .

 

[Death Row Dave]

Yes I’m sure it had an after cooler before entering the receiver tank . There is large amounts of heat generated when compressing the amount of air , your compressor will be moving . Your compressor more than likely had an externally mounted after cooler piped inline before entering the receiver tank , than contained an automatic drain pot . You are going to have to have some type of after cooler and drain system . Also please determine what pressure rating the fittings on the discharge pipe to tank you currently have . They must be schedule 80 pressure rated fittings , they look to be schedule 40 is what you currently have . They may be correct rating now , but please verify this .

 

[JHForman]

Yes I’m sure it had an after cooler before entering the receiver tank . There is large amounts of heat generated when compressing the amount of air , your compressor will be moving . Your compressor more than likely had an externally mounted after cooler piped inline before entering the receiver tank , than contained an automatic drain pot . You are going to have to have some type of after cooler and drain system . Also please determine what pressure rating the fittings on the discharge pipe to tank you currently have . They must be schedule 80 pressure rated fittings , they look to be schedule 40 is what you currently have . They may be correct rating now , but please verify this .

I will verify it. The way you see the compressor is exactly how I picked it up.

 

[JHForman]

Yes I’m sure it had an after cooler before entering the receiver tank . There is large amounts of heat generated when compressing the amount of air , your compressor will be moving . Your compressor more than likely had an externally mounted after cooler piped inline before entering the receiver tank , than contained an automatic drain pot . You are going to have to have some type of after cooler and drain system . Also please determine what pressure rating the fittings on the discharge pipe to tank you currently have . They must be schedule 80 pressure rated fittings , they look to be schedule 40 is what you currently have . They may be correct rating now , but please verify this .

heres a 350-18 mines 350-17 and configured the same way. was the after cooler removed from this one also? almost all 350s i see online have no after cooler?

 

[Death Row Dave]

It will work the way it is currently piped up , but I’m sure it had some type of aftercooler at one time . The hotter the air the air the less dense it is meaning less mcf produced by the compressor into the receiver . This is a linear calculation. The cooler the air the more air will be sent to the receiver . You will never get atmospheric temp compressed air into the receiver . If you are going to be using the compressor to power the blast cabinet , you will need air to be as dry as possible .

You need automatic drain system on the receiver tank and 2 inline driers before the cabinet .

The large compressors I spoke of had a 27000gallon cooling tower for two compressors , water cooled inter and after coolers . The process air , still left to the receiver at 175 * F .
They each had 400 gallon cyclone knockout pots to remove condensation from heat of compression and aftercoolers .

 

[JHForman]

It will work the way it is currently piped up , but I’m sure it had some type of aftercooler at one time . The hotter the air the air the less dense it is meaning less mcf produced by the compressor into the receiver . This is a linear calculation. The cooler the air the more air will be sent to the receiver . You will never get atmospheric temp compressed air into the receiver . If you are going to be using the compressor to power the blast cabinet , you will need air to be as dry as possible .

You need automatic drain system on the receiver tank and 2 inline driers before the cabinet .

The large compressors I spoke of had a 27000gallon cooling tower for two compressors , water cooled inter and after coolers . The process air , still left to the receiver at 175 * F .
They each had 400 gallon cyclone knockout pots to remove condensation from heat of compression and aftercoolers .

ok ill start looking for an after cooler.

 

[Death Row Dave]

As I said they could of had an external aftercooler lots of them as ours did . But most effective way is to cool before the receiver . Ours had drying towers full of silica gel , to dry the air as best as possible . Google , large compressor after coolers , there are many types , you can build or purchase one for your needs . Without one your for sure looking at process maintenance failures x 10 .

Your receiver tank needs to stay dry , corrosion inside the tank can’t be seen , until it’s too late and explodes .

Major amounts of stored energy inside that tank . Please use caution

 

[Death Row Dave]

You have the best 2 stage piston compressor on today’s market . It’s fully rebuildable , pressure oil system . Spend some time , to set it up correctly , and enjoy your purchase for many hours of trouble free service .

Only thing better is a “ screw compressor “ , but you will pay at least 2x what the Quincy cost . Is it worth it , to me you have the “ Cadillac “ .

 

[JHForman]

You have the best 2 stage piston compressor on today’s market . It’s fully rebuildable , pressure oil system . Spend some time , to set it up correctly , and enjoy your purchase for many hours of trouble free service .

Only thing better is a “ screw compressor “ , but you will pay at least 2x what the Quincy cost . Is it worth it , to me you have the “ Cadillac “ .

I had to turn down a screw compressor because it was 30HP 3PH bigger than I can run in my shop.

 

[JHForman]

Yes I’m sure it had an after cooler before entering the receiver tank . There is large amounts of heat generated when compressing the amount of air , your compressor will be moving . Your compressor more than likely had an externally mounted after cooler piped inline before entering the receiver tank , than contained an automatic drain pot . You are going to have to have some type of after cooler and drain system . Also please determine what pressure rating the fittings on the discharge pipe to tank you currently have . They must be schedule 80 pressure rated fittings , they look to be schedule 40 is what you currently have . They may be correct rating now , but please verify this .

Schedule 40 has a working pressure of 1700 and a burst pressure of 9100

 

[Death Row Dave]

I think I still have an after cooler hanging on the wall in maybe shop , not using it . PM me a contact number . If I have it I send you images and sell it to you on the cheap side it your interested .

 

[Death Row Dave]

Schedule 40 “ black iron “ unions and elbow fitting can not be that high pressure rated , the pipe can be but not the fittings in your attached piping . Clean the Union well and look closely it will state either pressure rating or schedule rating . I’m just trying to prevent someone from getting a serious injury , you may have correct pressure rated fitting , but please verify .

 

[JHForman]

Schedule 40 “ black iron “ unions and elbow fitting can not be that high pressure rated , the pipe can be but not the fittings in your attached piping . Clean the Union well and look closely it will state either pressure rating or schedule rating . I’m just trying to prevent someone from getting a serious injury , you may have correct pressure rated fitting , but please verify .

And I appreciate that! Ill check them tomorrow and report back.

 

[Hobby_Man22]

Ok guys im lookign for a little help here. I bought this MONSTER compressor, its currently 10HP 3PH. I need to change the motor to something single phase. I can get a 10HP single or a 7.5 single. I havent found a chart showing what the CFM will be or is when using the 10HP or the 7.5. Can anyone help? I am looking to run a sand blast cabinet i picked up. the cabinet needs 25CFM@80

How big is this thing? Looks like 80 gallons. Probably $3500 if bought new

 

[JHForman]

How big is this thing? Looks like 80 gallons. Probably $3500 if bought new

120 gallon model 350-17

 

[PoorUB]

If you used the 10HP pulley on a 7.5HP motor, with the same motor RPM, it will spin the pump at the same RPM. But it will lack the power to handle the very top end of the pressure repeatedly. This will probably damage the motor in the long run.

This is why the 7.5HP RPM rating (at the pump) is lower. The only way to lower the RPM is to swap out a pulley for a different size, or get a motor that has a different RPM (made that way). So to use a 7.5HP motor, you need a different pulley (use the calc link to figure out a close size).

Trust me, I understand that! Did you miss the part about turning down the pressure switch?

Certainly it takes less HP to fill a tank to 125 PSI than 175! How much difference I don't know. I also said to check motor amps if trying to do this. If the motor over amps, it will not work, if the motor stays at or below max amps it will work fine.

 

[oldmachinenut]

How big is this thing? Looks like 80 gallons. Probably $3500 if bought new

Just a new Quincy 325 pump alone is over $3000.00 now.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Ok guys. I know this is part of the unloader system. Do I need to do anything with this valve? or just leave it open?

You have a 'dual run' set-up which means you can either run it in 'constant-run' mode or 'start-stop' mode. depending on if that valve is open or closed. To the far left of the valve in question is the pilot valve which is utilized during 'constant run' mode. If you were doing a lot of bead blasting, you'd want to use 'constant run' mode, whereas in normal use 'start-stop' would be appropriate.

BTW, most Quincy's do NOT come standard with an aftercooler.

What is the diameter of the drive (motor) sheave?

Link to correct parts manual PDF below...

https://www.revbase.com/TagTeam/link.asp?id=375B105A

 

[pcmeiners]

This is the size cooler you should have with maximum output, but they are expensive, you need a 1" fitting cooler to avoid friction loss.....

Oil Cooler Hayden 1297 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Oil Cooler Hayden 1297 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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A Hayden 1290 is the next size down, 1" fittings......

Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Hayden 1290 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Hayden 1290 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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Hayden coolers brochure..,..,

https://www.haydenauto.com/media/5475/oil-cooler-brochure_individual-pages.pdf

Avoid aluminum tube coolers, you need 350° F temp rating, 300 psi pressure rating.

Any after cooler in a humid atmosphere will produce a lot of water, particularly in the heat of the summer, plumb accordingly.

 

[Cruzan80]

Trust me, I understand that! Did you miss the part about turning down the pressure switch?

Certainly it takes less HP to fill a tank to 125 PSI than 175! How much difference I don't know. I also said to check motor amps if trying to do this. If the motor over amps, it will not work, if the motor stays at or below max amps it will work fine.

That wasn't directed at you, but the OP, who asked if he could use the same pulley on the 7.5 as the 10HP. Based on the link, better to swap pulleys and leave the cutout at 175, as it is a known value, and gets the "most" from the pump.

 

[Death Row Dave]

I have an aftercooler hangin in my garage , it is 1 in .

 

[JHForman]

I have an aftercooler hangin in my garage , it is 1 in .

I’ll be getting ahold of you after I have it up and running to hopefully work out a deal!

 

[Death Row Dave]

We can do something . I’m more into trading for something , than a sale . I’m easy , something fun and old does it fir me . I’ll try to get an image for you if your interested in one .

 

[Death Row Dave]

Well here’s what I have .

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Your sch40 outlet pipes are more than adequate for pressure but I'd be a bit concerned about vibration cracking the pipes at the thread roots with a hard piped line into the tank.

I would not be overly concerned about an aftercooler. I often ran a 10hp IR hard all day blasting equipment without an aftercooler and it was fine. I'd invest in an auto drain for the tank and a cyclonic water separator and filter before shelling out for an aftercooler. You still need to concern yourself with vibration when using an aftercooler. I'd recommend a braided steel vibration isolation connector whichever route I went. I agree with a previous poster that aftercoolers on a recip are pretty rare in the field. They work well, but the tank does a more than adequate job of heat management for the vast majority of users.

We have a pair of 1250hp Worthingtons here and changing out 56 valves per machine was a definite pain in the ***!

 

[Sleeper]

That’s a great machine you got and if it was working well before, it will last you a lifetime. I have an almost identical Quincy that’s a little larger and had the same issues you did when trying to re-power it. You should be fine with the 7.5 hp and a pulley change but don’t forget to check your starter rating and change out the heaters. These big Quincy’s did not come standard with an after cooler but many of them did have a flexible braided steel output to the tank using the same configuration as your hard pipe to allow a little flex when running.

The chart below is not mine but it’s famous from the older Quincy threads. Lots of options to get that thing up and running. Good luck and good blasting.

 

[marinusdees]

Ok guys im lookign for a little help here. I bought this MONSTER compressor, its currently 10HP 3PH. I need to change the motor to something single phase. I can get a 10HP single or a 7.5 single. I havent found a chart showing what the CFM will be or is when using the 10HP or the 7.5. Can anyone help? I am looking to run a sand blast cabinet i picked up. the cabinet needs 25CFM@80

I think if you are going to run a 10hp motor, you must notify the local poco. Mighht wanna check.

 

[JHForman]

I think if you are going to run a 10hp motor, you must notify the local poco. Mighht wanna check.

im going with the 7.5HP

 

[JHForman]

Ok guys this thread is due for some updating and a happy ending. So what started out as a great deal turned into a disaster very quickly. I decided for my own safety I would pressure test the tank, and low and behold I found it cracked. So now I had to find a new tank this took a bit of time but I was eventually able to score an IR compressor with an after cooler on it also! So I ditched the IR pump and motor, and proceeded to mount my 7.5 single phase and quincy 350 pump to the tank. after pressure testing it to make sure it was good.

Ok so next up was to get the belt guard, and aftercooler all mounte dup and get the pump sheave and motor sheave aligned. This wasnt too bad but definitely takes some patience.



Now it was time to check out the compressor itself, obviously I was fibbed to about this thing being removed working. so I removed the valves, the head and cleaned everything up and reassembled.