Quincy QE-5 project

[Tarnished]

Picked up this Quincy QE-5 recently and I am looking for information on this model. Plenty on the QT, but not for the QE. Not much available on the Quincy web site, and haven't talked to customer service yet. PO couldn't tell me much about the unit other than it didn't hold presser above 80#. Decided to take a chance as the motor or tank was worth more than his asking price. Anyone out there using this model, or done a overhaul on the QE?
Thanks.
Sorry, but how do I rotate the images from iPhone?

 

[Steven K]

I have rebuilt the QT series and would imagine you will need to replace the reed valves on your QE. The QT has a reed valve assembly that you replace but I think the QE has individual reed valves for replacement. I would pull the head and check if the valves may need to just be cleaned. Your unit is sometime referred to as a QEV-5, 'V' for vertical. There are manuals for your unit on the Quincy website for download.

 

[Tarnished]

Thanks Steve, I have been able to print the instruction manual for the QE, but it tells very little. Have been looking for a parts breakdown or repair manual for the QE with no luck. Believe it may have been replaced by the QT series, which uses completely different heads. Hoping that rebuild parts are still valuable. Will keep looking.

 

[chrispyny]

You should really call Quincy. They are an American company, based out of Quincy, IL. They have been there for a LONG time. Unfortunately they have been in the middle of moving their entire facility to Alabama if I'm not mistaken. They undoubtedly have parts for this compressor. They will need the serial # off the plate on the pump to know which "ROC" or 'record of change' your model is. Basically which updates your pump has received before leaving the factory. Quincy constantly makes revisions and updates to their products.

Prior to the last year or so, ALL major components of ALL Quincy compressors were made right here in the USA. Unfortunately, i have recently read that some of the castings for their low end compressors ( DON'T get me wrong, most ALL genuine Quincy compressors are NOT 'low end') are being cast in South America if i recall correctly. In addition, some replacement parts like bearings and motor pulleys are no longer made in America but outsourced to China. I can confirm the bearings from threads I read online with pictures of Chinese bearings in pump rebuild kits, and i can confirm Chinese motor pulleys myself.

I won set of Quincy QT-7.5 compressors at auction about 1.5 years ago. I kept one and sold the other. I changed my compressor over from 3 phase 7.5 HP to split phase 5HP with a new Baldor motor. In order to do that, i needed to reduce the motor pulley to reduce the work the smaller motor performed. I called Quincy directly and they gave me the part number for the appropriate pulley for the conversion. The gentleman on the line did the math RIGHT there on the line with me. It seemed to be a question he answered frequently as the math was done immediately and without hesitation. When i ordered the pulley from my local Quincy dealer (which thankfully is 15 min from my house) it came in a Quincy box, but had a made in China sticker on it.

Point is, many here and on other boards have cited Quincy customer service as superb. I concur. Call them, get them on the phone. A technician will tell you EVERY difference between the QE and QT line of compressors and what you need to rebuild/fix what ever you have.

Good luck.

As a side note, Although Quincy makes light industrial compressors like the QE and QT line, from what i understand, their meat and potatoes is NOT from this line of compressors. They make VERY expensive purpose specific compressors for ALL sorts of industry. For example, even though my personal QT-7.5 compressor is 99% American made Quincy, and if were to be purchased now as set up when they used to sell them the way mine is set up, one would have to may $2,800 for it.
For most garage/shade tree mechanics, that's unaffordable. But to Quincy, the current Q models of compressors are their lower tier compressors they sell.

OH, i forgot. CONGRATS on an AWESOME compressor!!! Fix her up and KEEP HER! It's a GORGEOUS American piece of work!

Here is the link to the "Quincy BLUE" paint that is on your compressor.

http://www.compressorparts.com/quincy-recv-vn-620g-150wp-42x-quincy-blue-401830-150-blue-genuine-oem

It took me FOR EVER to find that paint for mine. Mine is the Quincy Blue II. Quincy went to a more vibrant/electric blue a few years ago. Your color is the earlier of the Blues.

Here.s mine. After selling off all the other parts i won in the auction, converting to single phase with a new motor, purchasing the mag starter etc, it actually paid me back a few hundred bucks. So i'm + a few hundred after it all.

 

[Tarnished]

Chris, Thanks for the input. I have worked with Quincy support before, and they are legendary... So far, I haven't had the chance to call on this one. But it is on the list of things to do. It will determine weather this QE is worth saving and a keeper, or if I should just take the tank & motor and mount a 325 that I have waiting for some love in the queue. Know ya can't beat the 325's, but was hoping for some input on stats and parts list for this unit. No luck on parts yet. Hoping your right, and Quincy has parts for this line. Thanks. Hope mine cleans up half as nice as yours. Nice work.

 

[justanengineer]

JMO but the home-shop splash lubricated QE/QT compressors arent worth sinking money or effort into, especially if youve got a 325. I'd probably list the pump on craigs for $200 and take the first $150 offer.

 

[Tarnished]

I hear ya JAE... but the QE "Looks" to be a decent machine. If it can be repaired economical, I am willing to put the time into it. If big $$, than I made out on just the tank, and motor and will do a swap out with the 325. As it sits now, the 325 is basically a complete rebuilt unit, but the tank is old, and I was looking to update tank + go vertical. Haven't been able to find much info on the E units, but they do not appear to be the same compressor units as the T. Seems much heaver built, and possibly cast iron head. ?? not sure yet. Looking for specs to compare now.

 

[NedNorton]

I just noticed this thread, a month late, so I hope that this is relevant. I just put a QE back into service that I picked-up used a while back. I, like you, was having a tough time getting any info but a quick call to Quincy support helped a bunch. This is what I learned.

The QE series has a "SLT 7.5" pump. This is for both the 5hp and 7hp motors. RPM range is 770-1050 and CFM is 21-28 @ 175psi displaced/ 17.6-22.4 @ 175psi delivered. From a purely spec standpoint, for whatever it's worth, it betters the newer QT line with more CFM at a lower RPM and as you noticed, built with heavier components; The cast iron head being just one. I was told by a Quincy Tech when I called that the QE -> QT line "evolution/upgrade" was done for cost reasons and that the QE/SLT compressors are in his words, "Pretty bullet-proof". The bottom end of the pump is the same as the QR without the pressure lube bits. Most parts are still available from Quincy, such as gaskets/etc.. Be aware that the intercooler tube is NLA from the factory but you can find them from other online distributors but are in the $250 range. My example had been abused, so it required a little more attention to get going. I replaced the bearings with new Timken (The quincy and Timken #'s are the same.) and corrected a bent flywheel stub on the crank. All in, with a new Baldor and controls I'm down less than $500. Well worth it.

You can see the rehab here:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=296080&page=40

Bottom line... If the ratings fit your needs I would say, change the oil and run it. If you notice issues then pull the head. The Tech did say that the SLT pumps are rated for continues-duty when fed synthetic lube.

The 325 is a legendary pump. Period. It has similar ratings as the SLT but as you know, is more durable with the pressure lube and excellent unloader system. I think you would be hard pressed to tax either in a home shop environment. I'm expecting that my old QEH will be the last compressor I need. If down the line a rebuild is in order, the parts cost will be minimal so well worth it. Like chrispyny pointed out, the QE and QT compressors are the entry level machines for Quincy but a new one still costs north of $2500 when properly equipped with a mag starter etc.

If you need the pump or compressor manuals, and are having tough time finding them on the Quincy site, PM me and I can email them to you.

Hope that this helps. Let us know how it goes.

Cheers,
Chris

 

[Tarnished]

I just noticed this thread, a month late, so I hope that this is relevant.
Chris

Chris, Thanks so much. Haven't started on the Quincy, as it is 1* in the barn right now, and I have some other projects (Kitchen remodel) going on to keep me busy. But it will become a priority as soon as I get some warmer weather.
Just read through your Quincy build and you do AMAZING work. From repairing that shaft, to your OCD wiring for the starter, just INSPIRING. Appreciate the info. Seems everyone wants to write off the QE as being the same bad example as the QT. I don't think this is correct. I am hoping like you, that the QE is worth the time to rebuild. I haven't called Quincy support yet, just dug around on there website looking for info. Since I have had little luck finding the correct manuals for the Q"E" series on the Quincy website, I will be sending you a PM hoping for a link to the parts breakdown. Again, thanks. Was told locally that Quincy no longer supports this machine, but can't believe that they would just abandon the QE line with no part support, so good to hear that you were still able to get parts through them. If it doesn't hold pressure over 80# then I am thinking bad or rusty valves maybe?
I will keep all informed as I make progress on this machine.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Yeah Quincy might not have much online, but if you call them they are very helpful. Even better is if you can find a local Quincy dealer. I have a little pressure-lube 210 that is I'm sure is late 70's era that the tank developed a pinhole leak on the bottom. The old Quincy tank the drain valve was on the side and not the bottom so there was always residual water in there, amazing it lasted as long as it did.

Anyhow, I found a local Quincy dealer. Lucky there was one, they service & supply products to all the big factories around. And I brought my compressor with me looking for a new tank and asking about parts. Even my old 210 revision 1 he said they can still get parts for if I ever need them, and he had this HUGE book with breakout diagrams, parts lists, etc, etc...

Long story short, they don't repair tanks but another local company does. However to get it patches, tested, certified, etc, he said probably wouldn't be worth the cost. A new Quincy tank is also stupid expensive and might as well just buy a whole new unit. Legally also he couldn't sell me just a used tank. He did have an old Sanborn Blackmax that he said was sitting in back since he started working there that looked in good shape. Just had a few spots of surface rust on top, sounded solid and the tank was dated like mid 90's IIRC. Wiring was all messed up but I only wanted the tank anyhow so I gave him $100 and out the door I went.

Managed to get the big fitting off the bottom of the tank and cleaned it out good, was in really good shape very little rust inside. I hit it with some spray paint inside just for good measure. Even though the Sanborn pump & motor would technically put out more air, I liked how quiet and smooth running my Quincy is. Motor mount was the same, and I found one hole lined up with the pump, drilled & tapped the other three easy enough. Tried to use as many existing parts as I could, only had to buy a couple fittings. I used the old pressure Square-D pressure switch even though it didn't have an on/off lever, it was old made-in-usa, built like a tank with big contacts, just doesn't compare to the cheap ones today. One of these days I'll re-do it nicer when I pull it to re-paint the tank (Quincy blue of course). But for now it runs good and serves its purpose.

Oh, and later I sold the 5-SPL motor & pump on CL for $125... lol. So really it didn't cost me a thing.

 

[Tarnished]

Started doing a little clean-up on the Quincy and wanted to ask a question about the drain valve.
Drain was 1/4in copper tube with butterfly valve on the end, about 8-10 inches long.

I removed the copper tube and replaced with black pipe 90 and an 8" ****** with 1/4 turn shut off valve. All neat at the bottom of the compressor tank.

But then I got to thinking about this being in the way, and tripping or kicking hazard, and thought maybe I was better off with the copper tube. When I am done, I want to have some kind of blow down valve on the end, and this will really make it stick out in the way. Want to be able to manually drain with out standing on my head to reach the valve.
So what would you all recommend for drain valve plumbing and why. Show me what you guys have for drain set up's?

 

[chrispyny]

Put a shorter piece of black pipe on their. Like mine, where the handle of the ball valve 'just' barely clears the base of the tank. Then remove anything past the ball valve.

If you need to direct water and oil in a certain direction when purging, screw all that other stuff in by hand, hand right, purge, and remove for storage somewhere near by.

Done.

 

[IowaDon]

I ended up using a 12" hydraulic hose instead of a rigid pipe between the street elbow and valve because it's what I had laying around. I intended to use it temporarily and replace with a rigid pipe ******, because that's what I've done on previous compressors. But the hydraulic hose is stiff enough that it works great. No danger of snapping the whole thing off when moving it, as I've had that happen before. I also used a ball valve intended for gas piping instead of water piping because it is physically smaller (and cheaper).

My compressor has a 1/2" drain fitting in the tank, so this was very simple. If your compressor has a 1/4" outlet it will take a reducer obviously as I doubt a smaller diameter hose is stiff enough.

Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

 

[cvairwerks]

I generally come off the tank bung to an elbow then flexible hose with the valve at the end of the hose. Make the hose whatever length needed to get to a convieneint place and mount the valve and hard pipe from there to either outside the building or a catch tank. No need to bend to drain and no trip hazard.

 

[Tarnished]

Thanks Guys, appreciate the input.
chrispyny: I'm with you on shorter pipe. Could save maybe 2" if I used shorter ******. But I think I would still have the kicking hazard.
I like the flex hose idea. I think I could make that work. Although the drain elbow is only 1/4" I might be able to have one of the hydraulic places make a hose that fits.
Here's what I have on my Saylor Beall compressor:

Works great for the auto drain since I don't have to get to it for that. (although It will freeze up in my location) But for manual draining, I still have to slither on my belly to open the valve when I need to.
Was thinking more along the lines of the manual valve that you give a tug when you want to drain, release and it resets. Not sure how this would work with flex hose? Trying to get this figured out while I can get to the bottom of the tank. Due to the configuration of the Quincy base, once the motor and compressor are mounted, it will be a bear to make changes to.

 

[EOC_Jason]

If you use a shorter pipe that will probably work out better in the long run. I wouldn't bother with a 90 on the end because that will just make a mess on the ground every time you drain it. I typically just have an old bottle (either 2L or Gallon) sitting behind my compressor and I stick it on the end when I open the drain to catch the water.

 

[Tarnished]

Looks like a shorter pipe is the way to go. Will work on that. Thanks.

Guys I am now at the end of my comfort zone. I have the head off and it looks like the problem is a broken reed valve between the low pressure and the hi pressure side.


I have removed all the reeds, and screws and have new reeds and gaskets on order, (6 week wait ) from my local Quincy dealer so I have some time to get the head & block cleaned up.
Here is my problem... How do I clean up these without making things worse? How would you guys clean out all the rust and carbon on the plates without scratching things?
My thoughts are to use a scraper carefully to remove the old gaskets. Can I then use a fine 3M Scotch-Brite Roloc to polish up the plates? Will this remove to much? My thoughts are then to use some 800 grit on a glass backer to finish polish the surfaces. I know that I need this to be as smooth and scratch free as possible just not sure how to get there safely.
May be over thinking this, but wanted to ask how you all do this before instead of after I muck it up... LOL
Appreciate all the help.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Soak it in evaporust if you are lazy. Otherwise me personally, what I've done in the past was just use a putty knife to scrape off the gasket, then a green scotch-brite pad & some solvent (old gas) to clean it up. Or I suppose if you have a fine-wire wheel you could do that too.

I remember taking apart one compressor head a long time ago. Don't know how but a STAPLE got stuck in one of the reed valves! Likewise you could see at one time in the past a screw came loose and there was kind of an imprint on the top of the cylinder of the threads and such, lol. I took all the reeds off, scraped them clean and re-installed. I used a little dab of purple or blue loctite on those screws just to make sure they wouldn't come loose.

 

[Tarnished]

Thanks EOC, I was going to ask about locktite for screws. I feel fortunate I was able to get all old screws out without any trouble.
When they go back I don't want them wandering out unexpectedly... Thanks.

Working on the gasket, will let you know how it comes off.

 

[swharris]

No help here, but I owned the horizontal version of that compressor. I sold it due to lack of room and needing space for the garage build. I might have the manual for it if I did not give it to the new owner. I'll look.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Call customer service if you need the manual, they are usually quite helpful. Or if you have a deal local they usually have a bunch of catalogs.

 

[Tarnished]

No help here, but I owned the horizontal version of that compressor. I sold it due to lack of room and needing space for the garage build. I might have the manual for it if I did not give it to the new owner. I'll look.

swharris: Thank for the manual offer, but I was able to pick up a copy from my Q dealer when I ordered the parts. Appreciate the offer. As EOC stated, Quincy folks are really quite helpful.
Was quite surprised yesterday when most of the parts arrived from Quincy! They had said "up to 45 day for delivery" and all showed up in 4 days!
Well, not quite all. I needed 14 reed valves, and I received only 7, but that was due to ordering the other seven on different invoice. My fault, so we will see when the other 7 show up.
Working on getting the heads & plates cleaned up and will post pics soon. Have been wondering what you all use for gasket goo? Should I use permatex or something similar? Surly I need something to stick them to the plates don't I? All thoughts appreciated.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I always put mine on dry if I can. I only use goop if I need it to hold in place while mounting parts.

 

[Tarnished]

Thanks EOC, makes it easy. Been quite a while since I did anything requiring a gasket replacement. Phones don't have gaskets.
Got the head's and plates all cleaned up and ready to go back together.
Received the remaining reed valves from Quincy in the mail today, so should have everything needed to start back together.
Got the drain shortened to something I can live with so that's done. Built a cart to set the compressor on for now. not sure I want wheels for final solution, but I need to move it around shop for now. Pics soon.

 

[Maninthesea]

Reviving an old thread
I am helping a friend sort out a QE-5 that has been sitting for years. Reed valves and plates load very good but it appears the reed valves had rubber at the end that's not fixed. I assume it was for either vibration dampening or limiting travel. It has deteriorated and crumbled away at the touch. Anyone know if it's important.
We definatly need rings for both Pistons and also Conrod bearings(for the crank end). If anyone has a manual they can email that would be greatly apreciated!!!
If your coming thru guam first beer is my shout!
Jim

 

[EOC_Jason]

Quincy customer service is top notch... Give them a call and they can email you a PDF for your pump...

Get the revision number, serial number, everything you can off the data plate before calling. That way they can give you the most accurate diagrams and such.

 

[cattrainer]

Yeah Quincy might not have much online, but if you call them they are very helpful. Even better is if you can find a local Quincy dealer. I have a little pressure-lube 210 that is I'm sure is late 70's era that the tank developed a pinhole leak on the bottom. The old Quincy tank the drain valve was on the side and not the bottom so there was always residual water in there, amazing it lasted as long as it did.

Anyhow, I found a local Quincy dealer. Lucky there was one, they service & supply products to all the big factories around. And I brought my compressor with me looking for a new tank and asking about parts. Even my old 210 revision 1 he said they can still get parts for if I ever need them, and he had this HUGE book with breakout diagrams, parts lists, etc, etc...

Long story short, they don't repair tanks but another local company does. However to get it patches, tested, certified, etc, he said probably wouldn't be worth the cost. A new Quincy tank is also stupid expensive and might as well just buy a whole new unit. Legally also he couldn't sell me just a used tank. He did have an old Sanborn Blackmax that he said was sitting in back since he started working there that looked in good shape. Just had a few spots of surface rust on top, sounded solid and the tank was dated like mid 90's IIRC. Wiring was all messed up but I only wanted the tank anyhow so I gave him $100 and out the door I went.

Managed to get the big fitting off the bottom of the tank and cleaned it out good, was in really good shape very little rust inside. I hit it with some spray paint inside just for good measure. Even though the Sanborn pump & motor would technically put out more air, I liked how quiet and smooth running my Quincy is. Motor mount was the same, and I found one hole lined up with the pump, drilled & tapped the other three easy enough. Tried to use as many existing parts as I could, only had to buy a couple fittings. I used the old pressure Square-D pressure switch even though it didn't have an on/off lever, it was old made-in-usa, built like a tank with big contacts, just doesn't compare to the cheap ones today. One of these days I'll re-do it nicer when I pull it to re-paint the tank (Quincy blue of course). But for now it runs good and serves its purpose.

Oh, and later I sold the 5-SPL motor & pump on CL for $125... lol. So really it didn't cost me a thing.

On the original tank in the center between the compressor and the motor is a cast piece that you are pulling pressure off for the
pressure switch. Do you know what that was for by chance?

 

[oldmachinenut]

On the original tank in the center between the compressor and the motor is a cast piece that you are pulling pressure off for the
pressure switch. Do you know what that was for by chance?

It is a pulsation chamber/damper. My 1947 Gilbarco with a Quincy 310 pump has one.

 

[cattrainer]

thank you for the response.