Months ago I got this used compressor. If I remember correctly, I ran serial numbers and all and I believe that this compressor is pretty old. It works fine, but with being older, it seeps a little oil on the 310 pump around gaskets and all. I do know that, if it isn't broke, don't fix it of mess with it. Just curious if there are ways that I can tell that the pump is operating the best it can?? Would it be worth the money to rebuild it or have it rebuilt?? Any help and or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Quincy w/310 compressor pump.
- Thread starter Bear108
- Start date
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
If you get the entire model & serial number you can call up Quincy to see what parts they have for it. Then you can price it to see if you want to tear it apart now, or wait till you absolutely have to.
Just curious, did you give all the bolts on the housing and such a good tightening? Just from all the vibration they can slowly loosen themselves over time.
Just curious, did you give all the bolts on the housing and such a good tightening? Just from all the vibration they can slowly loosen themselves over time.
I did a full rebuild on a 310 about a year ago. It's really simple in design, and bulletproof. If you pull the four valves off the head there is a little disc and spring in each one. Lap the disc and valve seat smooth up to 1200 grit or so and then run it for thirty to forty minutes and they will seal like new. I bought an entire rebuild kit (all valve discs and springs, piston rings, rod bearings, all gaskets) for a little over 100 bucks. If you have any questions let me know.
If you rebuild it there is a guy on youtube that basically shows start to finish on how to rebuild a Quincy pump. Yours is probably similar. It's pretty interesting, lots of vids and some time but if you have an hour or two sit down and watch them.
Here's video #1 in the series
Here's video #1 in the series
The valve retaining collars are a HUGE pain to get out. The proper socket costs almost 200 bucks. I made one by cutting up a harbor freight impact socket to make tabs to fit the slots and using a sliding breaker bar to put equal twist on it. Lots of heat and penetrating oil is your friend in taking it apart.
The YouTube video didn't help with my 310. The valves are bolted to the head in a way different way and the oil pump is a lot different. I also didn't do the crank bearings like he did. Mine had a record of change of 21, built in 1960.
The YouTube video didn't help with my 310. The valves are bolted to the head in a way different way and the oil pump is a lot different. I also didn't do the crank bearings like he did. Mine had a record of change of 21, built in 1960.
OverkillYJ
Well-known member
The valve retaining collars are a HUGE pain to get out. The proper socket costs almost 200 bucks. I made one by cutting up a harbor freight impact socket to make tabs to fit the slots and using a sliding breaker bar to put equal twist on it. Lots of heat and penetrating oil is your friend in taking it apart.
The YouTube video didn't help with my 310. The valves are bolted to the head in a way different way and the oil pump is a lot different. I also didn't do the crank bearings like he did. Mine had a record of change of 21, built in 1960.
Google search turned up this thread. Do you have anymore info on the valve removal? I am disassembling right now with the tune up kit and cant get them off.