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Quote to Sheetrock Ceiling in Garage

Den69rs96

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This past summer, I decided to insulate and sheet rock my garage. I'm tired of working on my Camaro and daily drivers in 20 degree weather during the winter. Over the summer I insulated the walls and sheet rocked the walls.

After finishing my basement and now the walls on the garage, I was hoping to pay someone to come in and finish the ceiling as I am not a fan of hanging drywall especially since I have 12ft walls in my garage.

My garage is 24x24 with 12 ft high walls. I have trusses spaced about 24 inches apart so I would need strapping for the sheet rock. The strapping will also hold the insulation once I get around to that too. I got a quote from a guy to strap, hang the drywall, and tape/sand for about 3g. Seems a bit high to me. He told me if I put up the strapping and he did the rest it would be closer to $2000 which still seems high to me. What did you guys pay to have sheet rock done?
 
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SteveeP

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Go rent a panel lift for a day and do it yourself. If you can do walls, you can do the ceiling with a lift. I did my 36x26x10.5 with 1/2" 12 ft boards by myself (with a rented lift) and was actually laughing while I was doing it because the lift made it soo easy. Do you need to go 5/8's ??
Also...I would still strap the ceiling first at 16" oc, it really stiffens the snot out of the ceiling.
 
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Den69rs96

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I know I could do it but I'm kind of burnt out from all the projects. I'll do the strapping, rehang the garage door opener brackets and the rest of the electrical. I'll add the insulation and then decide what to do from there.
 

John in OH

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Have you considered a steel ceiling? I installed white pre-finished steel siding panels on my shop ceiling and love it! Put up the sheets and you're done! No joint finishing, no sanding, no priming, no painting! Check out the ceiling in my build thread,
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98038&page=5 starting at post #84.

Note ... noise has not been a problem.
 

atty5420

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Many local fire codes spec 5/8" for the lid, and 24" OC is certainly no problem. I did the same, and that was 15 years ago. 16' ceiling height. Blew R50 into the ceiling above, and all is well. No sag, no problems. Don't get me wrong....the garage still gets cold, but only because I chose not to provide a heat source, UNLESS I'm going to be working out there. Then, a local Mr. Propane, or some such will heat that place in a heartbeat.

It is well worth the investment. You'll be amazed at the insulating ability of just 5/8" drywall. The added insulation above it is just gravy.
 

Tronyadorable

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Go to a local building supply. LOCAL. Not HD, Lose,and others. Get a name of a drywall guy.
I used to get $7/sheet hung and finished(taped w/ compound-customers drywall)
That was years ago but I doubt it's too much different now.
I'm guessing a couple hundred greenbacks for 4 or 5 hours for a 2 car garage ceiling.
Oh. Drywall.Have some beer on hand.:thumbup:
He does drywall. He's perpetually in pain.
 
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Den69rs96

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The garage is attached to the house and when the house was built, they used 5/8 fire ode on the interior joining the house. I have trusses supporting the roof, no living space so I can use 1/2 or whatever I choose.

John I thought about steel roof which is originally what I was going to do but I have no idea how much that cost. I thought drywall was going to be much cheaper so I decided to go that route.

I think I might go to the local building supply and see what I can dig up.

Thanks for the info guys
 

PCO6

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... John I thought about steel roof which is originally what I was going to do but I have no idea how much that cost. I thought drywall was going to be much cheaper so I decided to go that route.
If it helps, I did my 20"x20" garage myself with aluminum soffit panels for about $450. I bought the panels at Home Depot and probably could have got a better deal if I shopped around. I didn't price out drywall but figured it would be similar ... and a lot more work!

View media item 36630
 

NUTTSGT

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$2 grand for a 24x24 garage, wow. I think you could find a drywall guy (that works for a drywall company) that would be happy to make a few bucks on the side if you gave him a hand.

I know you might be burned out but if you save 1200-1500 bucks, it would be well worth that for a days worth of labor. Think what you could buy for that savings. . . . . new fluorescent lights, heat source, insulation, new tool box. . . .
 

volleyball

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I'd come over and do steel panels for less than $3k.
You get get the 12 and 2 8' panels and put them up with a lift of build/rent some scaffolding. You can order up some 24' panels and no overlap but they will be a bear to install.
The metal would be less than $500.
Lowes has got some fiber panels that may weigh less.
24" isn't a long spam, I bet your living area has 1/2" drywall spanning that distance.
The 5/8" is the fire code which I do think is a good idea with an attached garage. I know a guy who had an electrical fire that was mostly contained to the garage and he ended up rebuilding a new house on the same foundation.
 
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Den69rs96

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If it helps, I did my 20"x20" garage myself with aluminum soffit panels for about $450. I bought the panels at Home Depot and probably could have got a better deal if I shopped around. I didn't price out drywall but figured it would be similar ... and a lot more work!

View media item 36630

Wow that looks nice and is about what I wanted to spend. I wouldn't mind putting that up since I wouldn't have to tape, mud, sand, sand, and sand again lol. Also if I don't have to paint that's a plus too.

I see you put the strapping in. Did you have to buy any brackets or framing pieces to install the panels?
 

JoeFin

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Rent the Dry-Wall Jack and grab some labor from the parking lot at Home Dipo.

My 5/8" rock was all hung in a couple hours and 1 of the guys who actually knew how to tape and mud came back the next day and knocked it all out for $125
 

PCO6

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Wow that looks nice and is about what I wanted to spend. I wouldn't mind putting that up since I wouldn't have to tape, mud, sand, sand, and sand again lol. Also if I don't have to paint that's a plus too.

I see you put the strapping in. Did you have to buy any brackets or framing pieces to install the panels?
I agree ... it eliminated a lot things that to me would have been a pain in the ****! The biggest advantage was that I didn't have to clear out the garage to install the ceiling.

Here's what 1 panel looks like. No brackets were required. I screwed it straight into the strapping with white #6 x 3/8" screws. The edges of the next panels fit together like tongue and groove. I finished the tops of the perimeter walls with 1"x6" MDF and used it to mount electrical and air lines.

View media item 36427
View media item 42161
 

ddawg16

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OP....your going about it wrong.

Buy 12 sheets of 5/8" 4x12 drywall

Rent drywall lift

Buy 2 cases of beer, gallon of salsa, 5 bags of tort chips.

Invite 3 buddies and their wives over.

Women do the 'wife' thing

You and your buddies spend 4 hours hanging the drywall and the rest of the day drinking beer and eating chips and salsa.

Task done.
 
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Den69rs96

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Thanks guys. I think this fall/winter I will install the strapping and insulation. I'll decide what to do next spring.
 
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PCO6

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Oh yeah? Who is he? I probably know him,lol...
My Dad used to hang out with Harold Carlaw (& Dave) and helped a lot at his aircraft museum (neat place!). Sorry to hear that Harold passed away a few years ago. Dave is an interesting guy. Always lots of projects on the go.

PM sent.
 

PCO6

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Other than lights, what would you hang on the ceiling that you wouldn't need to find a rafter/truss for ?
I have a 2' wide strip of plywood on my ceiling (see post #11). I used it for mounting air and electrical conduits. It also neatly covers the seams at the ends of the aluminum panels that I used. Other than the conduits the lights and a few minor things were easy to hang by locating the strapping and piercing the aluminum ... plywood wasn't necessary.
 

Whitworth

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This what I'd do.

Polystyrene insulation board (r4-r8 range depending on thickness) screwed to joists/trusses. That stuff is light, can do easily with no assistance. Then strapping 16 oc. Nail gun, will go fast with two sets of hands. You want the air gap it provides in addition to more support for the drywall. It doesn't sound like the op needs 5/8 Sheetrock. 1/2 sheetrock with drywall lift. More insulation on top. Done.

Gary
 

captain14

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If it helps, I did my 20"x20" garage myself with aluminum soffit panels for about $450. I bought the panels at Home Depot and probably could have got a better deal if I shopped around. I didn't price out drywall but figured it would be similar ... and a lot more work!

View media item 36630

Would this work for an outside porch ceiling? About a 6x7 space on the rear of my garage. Just put this Up to protect the rear door from the weather and elements.
 

PCO6

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captain14 - I'm sure it would. :thumbup: It's aluminum soffit so it's designed for outside use. It's a nice clean look, came as you see it (no paint required) and it's maintenance free.
 

mikec35

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If it helps, I did my 20"x20" garage myself with aluminum soffit panels for about $450. I bought the panels at Home Depot and probably could have got a better deal if I shopped around. I didn't price out drywall but figured it would be similar ... and a lot more work!

View media item 36630

Seems like corrugated roofing would be a little better price and go up quicker since its in 2' widths instead of 1' width soffit? Is there an advantage to one over the other?
 

PCO6

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Seems like corrugated roofing would be a little better price and go up quicker since its in 2' widths instead of 1' width soffit? Is there an advantage to one over the other?
I didn't look at corrugated roofing so I'm not sure of the price difference. At a little more than $1/sq. ft. I was fine with aluminum soffit panels. I wanted white and I guess the roof panels come in that colour but I don't know. Not that it matters much but the soffit panels are actually 16" wide. They went up pretty quickly so no problem there either. They also weigh next to nothing so that may be an advantage over corrugated roofing.
 

shaun oriold1

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I've got 12' ceiling too, and had drywall, though a super crappy taping job. It was all falling off! I wanted barn board but went to my local home store, and picked up grade B pine paneling, and stained it to look like barnboard. I wanted real barnboard, but its expensive/ or hard to come by in some areas ( I asked about 50 farmers to have their ratty old board)

The whole ceiling cost me $220 with stain - and a day of labour. IT looks pretty bad ***. Especially once we installed pot lights. Since its T&G it covers up a lot of uglyness.

I was just about to give up on barn board, and use steel sheet too, until I found the pine paneling! Something to consider....

2k$ doesnt seem unreasonable. Its high, but 12' ceiling are a pain in the ****!
 

mikec35

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I've got 12' ceiling too, and had drywall, though a super crappy taping job. It was all falling off! I wanted barn board but went to my local home store, and picked up grade B pine paneling, and stained it to look like barnboard. I wanted real barnboard, but its expensive/ or hard to come by in some areas ( I asked about 50 farmers to have their ratty old board)

The whole ceiling cost me $220 with stain - and a day of labour. IT looks pretty bad ***. Especially once we installed pot lights. Since its T&G it covers up a lot of uglyness.

I was just about to give up on barn board, and use steel sheet too, until I found the pine paneling! Something to consider....

2k$ doesnt seem unreasonable. Its high, but 12' ceiling are a pain in the ****!

Sounds good- do you have any pics?
 

Iroc-Z

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Don't know if this helps but I have a 25x25 garage with 10 foot walls and I paid 800 cash for just mudding and taping. Three coats sanded and ready for paint. I was damn happy to pay it. Not sure if the 2k includes mudding and taping the walls.
 

moparfreak

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I just recently had to make a choice between drywall and metal. Ended up going with metal and I'm glad I did. Prices I got were:

Drywall:
~$7/sheet
~$25/sheet to hang/tape/mud
~$5/sheet to prime and paint
Total: $37/sheet

Metal:
~$55/square = $17.60/sheet
J-channel = $5/12' (so add ~$40 - $50 for your job)
Polebarn screws - 2 boxes = $10

It was an easy decision to me. Not having to make so much sanding dust and covering my tools w/ drywall **** and painting over it all too and dripping onto the floors. Man, that is one of the best decisions I made on my shop project. And I get lots of compliments cause it's really slick looking. I had buddies come over on two consecutive sundays and it was done. (but I put up the J-channel a few nights earlier). Probably about 40 total man hours to put it in. Drywall lift a must. You can check out my thread on it here, post 14:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=254480

Even if you choose drywall, based on the quotes I got in my area from the local hispanic guys, you should expect to pay ~$800ish but 2k seems waay out of line.
 

volleyball

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I just recently had to make a choice between drywall and metal. Ended up going with metal and I'm glad I did. Prices I got were:

Drywall:
~$7/sheet
~$25/sheet to hang/tape/mud
~$5/sheet to prime and paint
Total: $37/sheet

Metal:
~$55/square = $17.60/sheet
J-channel = $5/12' (so add ~$40 - $50 for your job)
Polebarn screws - 2 boxes = $10

It was an easy decision to me. Not having to make so much sanding dust and covering my tools w/ drywall **** and painting over it all too and dripping onto the floors. Man, that is one of the best decisions I made on my shop project. And I get lots of compliments cause it's really slick looking. I had buddies come over on two consecutive sundays and it was done. (but I put up the J-channel a few nights earlier). Probably about 40 total man hours to put it in. Drywall lift a must. You can check out my thread on it here, post 14:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=254480

Even if you choose drywall, based on the quotes I got in my area from the local hispanic guys, you should expect to pay ~$800ish but 2k seems waay out of line.

Of course it worked out mathematically for you. Your math is wrong. You take a pro install job and compare it to a DIY project.
Reverse that and drywall would have been the obvious choice.

Not disagreeing that one is better than the other, just pointing out the discrepancy in the justification.
 

moparfreak

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Of course it worked out mathematically for you. Your math is wrong. You take a pro install job and compare it to a DIY project.
Reverse that and drywall would have been the obvious choice.

Not disagreeing that one is better than the other, just pointing out the discrepancy in the justification.

True, it's apples and oranges for the OP but in my case that was the situation. Never in my life did I want to hang 1350 sqft of drywall above my head so pro install costs came with the territory. I also knew it was very conceivable to get the metal installed by myself w/ some buddies and the right tools. So, right off the bat I could take the contractor out of the equation on that side of the comparison.

So for drywall, add taping, mudding and screws to the material costs (which the installers usualy cover), and you're probably looking at $15 - $17 per sheet diy including paint, and the metal probably tops out around $20/"sheet" diy. Both good choices but no brainer to me!
 

captain14

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captain14 - I'm sure it would. :thumbup: It's aluminum soffit so it's designed for outside use. It's a nice clean look, came as you see it (no paint required) and it's maintenance free.

Did you just screw the flange into each overhead joist to keep it from sagging in the middle? I know you would not have that issue with short runs of soffit between the end of the roof and the building wall.

I will have to look at some in the store to see how each attached to the previous piece.
 

evildky

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Louisville, KY
$100 a sheet for a small job is about right. doing a whole house you can get $40-50 a sheet but for a single ceiling $100 a sheet is pretty good.
 
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