Race Ramp advice?

[dethred]

I recently installed a four post lift in my garage and the included ramp solution wasn't able to get a standard height S2000 onto the lift without scraping, and it was heavy and bulky. So I purchased a set of Race Ramps at the advisement of the lift manufacturer... and it didn't touch the ground when attached. The reason for wasting a ridiculous amount on race ramps and the extenders? I have a medical issue which prevents me from lifting much. So far the only solution has been using a set of 2x8's, but they are a hassle, weigh enough to cause pain, and don't provide a wide-enough footprint for the ramps.

I have done a fair bit of searching, and can't find a good solution: Is there anything comparable to the race ramp material that I can buy, cut, and fit in place of the pictured wood 2x8's? I see a variety of foam available but nothing indicates whether it'll support weight similar to the race ramps.

Thanks in advance for any advice!!

 

[racecougar]

What resting runway height are you trying to reach? Are those the 4" or 5" H hook ramps?

 

[dethred]

48

This Rack Ramp decrease the angle of approach to as low as 6.4 degrees. Each ramp can hold up to 1,500 lbs., for a total vehicle weight capacity of 6,000 lbs.

www.raceramps.com

5" hook. it actually doesn't hook over the runway, but hooks into a slot, so there's also a gap under the hook that isn't supported (but doesn't seem to be an issue). Just need some foam that is of a similar strength to the race ramps that I can cut and use where the wood is.

 

[FredWanaker]

we used to throw a couple 2x12's pieces in front of the ramp to get the cars up on it. We had to take the spoiler off because it was only an inch+ or so off the ground.

 

[Zeke]

Cut the boards short and use them perpendicular to the ramp. You'll have more pieces but they will weight less.

IDK why you have to get that high just to get on the ramp but I don't have a ramp. But if you can use it a little lower, move the short ramp further under the big one. Less wood still.

 

[racecougar]

The resting runway height is 8" (5" H hook RR + two 2x8" boards)? What lift are we working with?

 

[HalfTonTom]

I'm getting off subject with this, but the Rack Ramp description the OP supplied says "Each ramp can hold up to 1,500 lbs., for a total vehicle weight capacity of 6,000 lbs." My head hurts trying to figure how you'd need four ramps at the same time to put a 6,000 car on them. One ramp under each wheel? It makes no sense.

 

[dethred]

we used to throw a couple 2x12's pieces in front of the ramp to get the cars up on it. We had to take the spoiler off because it was only an inch+ or so off the ground.

This is exactly what I'm trying to avoid.

 

[dethred]

The resting runway height is 8" (5" H hook RR + two 2x8" boards)? What lift are we working with?

Wildfire, yes it's about 8" off the ground. Just need to figure out a lightweight solution to bring the main ramps 3" off the ground, not sure if there's a generic type of foam that they used at raceramps, or it's completely unique.

 

[dethred]

Cut the boards short and use them perpendicular to the ramp. You'll have more pieces but they will weight less.

IDK why you have to get that high just to get on the ramp but I don't have a ramp. But if you can use it a little lower, move the short ramp further under the big one. Less wood still.

Wood is what I'm trying to replace.

 

[nmk_61802]

Have you tried contacting race ramps directly with your dimensions? They offer flat ramps as part of other packages, and appear to do some customization per their FAQ.

 

[dethred]

Have you tried contacting race ramps directly with your dimensions? They offer flat ramps as part of other packages, and appear to do some customization per their FAQ.

I have, and they said they couldn't for that kind of thing. Surely their foam can't be the only kind on the market...

 

[Mark_17]

Maybe get new lift ramps fabricated from aluminum?

 

[nmk_61802]

I have, and they said they couldn't for that kind of thing. Surely their foam can't be the only kind on the market...

I'm guessing they see it as a liability thing, since when stacked their ramps are designed to lock together. Too bad you started with the 5" hook, if you had the 4" hook, they have premade 4" flat blocks in their "service" line.

4

4

www.raceramps.com

If you are dead set on foam I would try some XPS from a home improvement store, however I would test it first by itself. Usually it comes in 15 or 25PSI compressive strength. I would use the 25PSI myself, but it should really be immaterial. They are only supporting 1/2 the cars weight between the two ramps and the contact point is dispersed thru the whole assembly.

 

[racecougar]

Wildfire, yes it's about 8" off the ground. Just need to figure out a lightweight solution to bring the main ramps 3" off the ground, not sure if there's a generic type of foam that they used at raceramps, or it's completely unique.

Is the runway not reaching the ground for some reason? Wildfire 4-post lifts all have 5" runways from what I've seen. Climbing 8" is pretty significant, I'd say.

 

[whateg01]

I'm getting off subject with this, but the Rack Ramp description the OP supplied says "Each ramp can hold up to 1,500 lbs., for a total vehicle weight capacity of 6,000 lbs." My head hurts trying to figure how you'd need four ramps at the same time to put a 6,000 car on them. One ramp under each wheel? It makes no sense.

If the vehicle weight is evenly distributed, 6000# total would be 1500# per corner. You only need to lift two corners at a time though.

 

[whateg01]

If foam proves unsatisfactory, you could always just stack up plywood to get the thickness you need. Use a hole saw it jig saw to remove material from the middle where it's not needed to lighten it. You could do that for the whole ramp for that matter. Make it in interlocking sections to get the length you need.

 

[rockettauto]

How about expanding marine poly foam? Can be poured into a mold and cut off. Pick your density.

See descriptions

Urethane Foam , Expanding Marine Polyurethane Foam

Wholesale/retail sales of composite and fiberglass materials, including epoxy, adhesives, carbon fibers, urethane foam, urethane casting rubbers

www.uscomposites.com

For reference pine lumber is roughly 45lb per cubic ft so even the 16lb density foam is 1/3rd weight. Though 16lb is probably overboard at over 500psi compressive.....I'd guess 8lb would be plenty. I'd guess the race ramps at the 60-90 compressive mark. Maybe face your new custom ramp with luan, pre placed in your mold, If necessary. I'd think just painting your finished ramp with latex would make it perfect though.

Sculpture foam may work if you must have cuttable board....but it will need a fairly tough coating.

I believe race ramps are polyethylene foam, but matching the density and hardness will be kind of tough. Closest I could find easily would be 9lb density...and it's going to be a bit spongier. Estimating the race ramps at 60psi since 1500 lb would match the tire patch of 25sqin for a small car.

Xp-90 should match it.

XP-90 Crosslinked Polyethylene - Leading XLPE Manufacturer

XP-90 is Worldwide Foam's 9lb industrial grade crosslinked polyethylene foam for a wide variety of applications

worldwidefoam.com

This should come close

Polyethylene Foam Sheets - 9.0LB White

Check out the deal on Polyethylene Foam Sheets - 9.0LB White at Foam Factory, Inc.

www.foambymail.com

And as suggested before, rigid foam insulation board....some of it comes close or surpasses the compressive strength.... durability might not be as good as these others but honestly if you just need some boards of it a sheet should work fine. Try to find some at 60psi compressive or better.

 

[Viper98912]

Years ago I tossed the 30 or 36" steel ramps that came with my lift and bought some (either) 42 or 48" long aluminum ramps. They are much better and definitely was exactly what I needed angle wise. I had to do some modification to them because they weren't exact - had to cut the width of the neck down some and they're also a little shorter than the height of my runways, so I till need a slim 1" block of wood underneath them. But nonetheless, worked great. They're still heavy and slightly cumbersome, but not as heavy as the steel ones and my car doesn't scrape now.

 

[P51Mustang]

Something like a real heavy duty ATV loading ramp?

 

[FredWanaker]

This is exactly what I'm trying to avoid.

is it the spoiler that is causing the issue? That is always what got us on all the cars, we raced SCCA road courses. If so, measure the distance from the tire leading edge to the spoiler and the spoiler height off the ground. Anything you buy or use cannot have a rise greater over that distance than the spoiler height off the ground.

 

[racecougar]

Without a long ramp, a lot of cars will have trouble getting up to the height of the OP’s runways. For whatever reason, they’re sitting ~2x as high as normal for a 4 post lift.

 

[Monza Harry]

I am fairly certain that high density styrofoam [pink/blue] from the bigbox "lumber yard" if skinned will stand up to considerable weight. Skinned with ~1/4" conveyor belt on the bottom and some ~3/8" plywood on top with a register/interlock to prevent slippage will lift and be tough. Harry

 

[firebirdparts]

That styrofoam they use to do roofing and showers and baths would make sense, wouldn't it? You could support a ramp with that, but a ramp made entirely of styrofoam with a plywood top would be good too. When you order a shower curb or bench block, you have to give custom dimensions. The standard is evidently about 5" by 5".

The roofing kind comes sloped and is crazy cheap if you could find somebody to just sell you a piece of it sloped.

 

[Jacko264]

If you have to lift a car on ramps that high to me the 4post ramp needs changing in some way like making level to the floor by sinking into the concrete

 

[budget76]

i might be misunderstanding the issue. it looks like you're just needing to add a ramp up onto the 4-post? a set of bed ramps wouldn't work? or are they heaver than you can move without pain?

they are pretty lightweight, but they don't weight nothing. they slide well though, and you could hook them with something and drag them around vs lifting if that helps?

 

[whateg01]

i might be misunderstanding the issue. it looks like you're just needing to add a ramp up onto the 4-post? a set of bed ramps wouldn't work? or are they heaver than you can move without pain?

they are pretty lightweight, but they don't weight nothing. they slide well though, and you could hook them with something and drag them around vs lifting if that helps?

Maybe with some support in the middle. Otherwise I think the car might make them bowed pretty quick

 

[Relax]

The pic below is what I've been doing recently to get my lowered M3 onto my HD-7W, which includes an even shorter ramp than the HD-9. I cut the tips off the ramps just enough to slip a 2x10 under them to raise the bumper enough to clear, and that was fine until the asphalt sunk to about the thickness a 2x4 below the slab. So now I fill the gap with a 2x6, and that combo is close to the height of the Trak Jax, so why not. When I fix my driveway to match the height of the concrete, I might try bending the "flaps" of the ramps just enough to allow the RaceRamps to fit under them directly.

In the meantime, I'll be shopping for those foam boards mentioned above to use in place of the lumber. Much easier to store when you can toss them on top of just about anything.

 

[logical]

I wish I'd have seen this 6 months ago. I have a similar situation due to floor slope. I cut the standard steel ramps to be maybe 1/3 of original length and leave them attached. I use 9" H trailer race ramps. Just lay the ramps down and lower the lift until the steel stubby ramps rest on the race ramps,

 

[Relax]

I wish I'd have seen this 6 months ago. I have a similar situation due to floor slope. I cut the standard steel ramps to be maybe 1/3 of original length and leave them attached. I use 9" H trailer race ramps. Just lay the ramps down and lower the lift until the steel stubby ramps rest on the race ramps,

I chose to install my lift flat on my sloped slab without any shims. I adjusted the cables so that the lower/garage door end lifts before the higher end to level it as much as possible while suspended. Then I adjusted the locking ladders so that the runway is perfectly level when resting on the locks.

 

[logical]

I chose to install my lift flat on my sloped slab without any shims. I adjusted the cables so that the lower/garage door end lifts before the higher end to level it as much as possible while suspended. Then I adjusted the locking ladders so that the runway is perfectly level when resting on the locks.

My thought was that having it square and plumb was more important in the raised position than when it was down on the ground. With my cars, even if I had zero shims the stock ramps would be way to short/steep.

 

[pbon]

The pic below is what I've been doing recently to get my lowered M3 onto my HD-7W, which includes an even shorter ramp than the HD-9. I cut the tips off the ramps just enough to slip a 2x10 under them to raise the bumper enough to clear, and that was fine until the asphalt sunk to about the thickness a 2x4 below the slab. So now I fill the gap with a 2x6, and that combo is close to the height of the Trak Jax, so why not. When I fix my driveway to match the height of the concrete, I might try bending the "flaps" of the ramps just enough to allow the RaceRamps to fit under them directly.

In the meantime, I'll be shopping for those foam boards mentioned above to use in place of the lumber. Much easier to store when you can toss them on top of just about anything.

I use 4’ race ramps and the extra length allows for a more gradual slope, which works for my lowered E36 M3 and worked for my lowered E90 M3. Your system works but has more parts and those yellow steel ramps are really heavy. 4’ aluminum ramps might be a good compromise, but I do like the lightness of the race ramps and there is one model that hooks right in place and is the right height at least for my Bendpak HD9-XL runners.

 

[Relax]

I use 4’ race ramps and the extra length allows for a more gradual slope, which works for my lowered E36 M3 and worked for my lowered E90 M3. Your system works but has more parts and those yellow steel ramps are really heavy. 4’ aluminum ramps might be a good compromise, but I do like the lightness of the race ramps and there is one model that hooks right in place and is the right height at least for my Bendpak HD9-XL runners.

I never remove the steel ramps on mine. They are cut and positioned so the garage door can still close with them attached. I only need to add the extensions for lowered cars - so far all stock height my stock Impreza and MDX clear them fine, which saves some time.

I was looking around locally (GTA) and found these boards with 60 PSI compressive strength for as little as $35 CAD for 1-in x 2-ft x 8-ft, which will be more than enough to construct an extension to my TrakJax and replace the lumber:

SOPRA-XPS 60 Rigid Thermal Insulation Board - SOPREMA

SOPRA-XPS 60 is a rigid thermal insulation board made of high-density extruded polystyrene with squared edges on its four sides. Shop at SOPREMA.

soprema.us

 

[no704]

Foam roofing company’s have multiple dencitys of foam available and can make any shape u want. That and some flex seal.