Radial arm or table saw.

[jonshonda]

Here is my breakdown of what I process wood with.
1) Miter saw. I have a cheap CM 10" with a Kreg material stop system that works great
2) Table saw. If you will be processing full 4x8 sheets of material a larger in-feed and full 8ft out-feed table make them much more user friendly.
3) Track Saw. Much easier to process 4x8 sheets of material, but imho that is about the extent of use for a track saw.
4) Circular saw. I have a worm drive and it's got the power needed for everything. It does a good job with panel products but isn't as easy or reliable to setup as a track saw.

 

[jrevans]

I have my dad's Craftsman 10" RAS, he purchased it in the mid 1970's.

I took advantage of the Emerson Radial saw recall a few years ago, when they were offering the updated blade guard and replacement table. Went through it, cleaned it up, and adjusted it, installed and aligned the new table and guard. It cuts like it was new.

It currently sits in my garage, with a 6' bench on either side, giving it a very large infeed/outfeed area. I smile everytime I turn it on.

I use it mostly for crosscut and miters, and was useful for my less than spectacular attempt at crown molding. I have decided that some things i am better at than others.

For crosscutting and miters, I can't see where a miter saw is any better than the RAS.

I have ripped on it many times over the years, both sheet goods and dimensional lumber.

It can be done, safely for the most part. You do need to pay attention to the saw, and the material. A helper can get you into a lot of trouble if they are not aware of what is going on.

The Powermatic 66 is the go-to machine for ripping these days,

 

[mikedodge]

I have my dad's Craftsman 10" RAS, he purchased it in the mid 1970's.

I took advantage of the Emerson Radial saw recall a few years ago, when they were offering the updated blade guard and replacement table. Went through it, cleaned it up, and adjusted it, installed and aligned the new table and guard. It cuts like it was new.

It currently sits in my garage, with a 6' bench on either side, giving it a very large infeed/outfeed area. I smile everytime I turn it on.

I use it mostly for crosscut and miters, and was useful for my less than spectacular attempt at crown molding. I have decided that some things i am better at than others.

For crosscutting and miters, I can't see where a miter saw is any better than the RAS.

I have ripped on it many times over the years, both sheet goods and dimensional lumber.

It can be done, safely for the most part. You do need to pay attention to the saw, and the material. A helper can get you into a lot of trouble if they are not aware of what is going on.

The Powermatic 66 is the go-to machine for ripping these days,

I missed the recall period. Mine has an adjustable shield with a light and kick back fingers that blocks the front of the blade which helps for safety anyway. I could only find a couple pics online of the setup, it looks like only one model had it.

 

[bwringer]

What's all this "radial" stuff? They're all "radio arm saws" on CrackList.

 

[PoorUB]

One or the other? Table saw, no question. If you have room a radial arm saw is nice to have for the odd dado or some weird cut. That said I started with a RAS and that is all I had for a few years. Then I bought a table saw and rarely used the RAS.

Today I have a Delta Unisaw and the RAS is gone. I sold it because about all I used it for was storage. It had drawers in the base and they were full of wood working odds and ends, and the saw's table was always covered with god only knows what. I came up with other storage that didn't take up floor space and sold the RAS and I haven't missed it one bit.

I needed to cut some dados at a weird angle and did it on the table saw after a bit of thinking. The RAS would have been easier. but for the once in five years odd use it wasn't worth keeping.

I have about $1500 into my table saw and I sold the RAS for $75 and was glad to see it go.

 

[Wiz02]

I too have a working Sears RAS that I no longer use and it is just taking up space in my basement. Free to anyone willing to break it down and lug it upstairs.

PM me if you want it.

 

[Jim greengo]

Definitely a Table Saw. If you can afford it, a cabinet model, not a contractor model - it's more stable and has better dust control.

I've seen more than 1 person that lost a hand/arm with a radial arm saw over the years,serious death trap I'd say.

 

[Ricky Joe]

.

 

[walta]

If your budget allows spend the money and get one of the Saw Stop machines. As a newbie you really need the safety it offers.

Walta

 

[johnre]

I’ve had both. As I downsized, I kept the radial arm saw and sold the table saw. It was a great saw, and I built my kitchen cabinets and garage with it, but tilting the table was a bit of a hassle.

If you're talking about the table saw, that would have been quite an old saw - where the blade and motor stayed put and the table tilted for angle cuts. Delta turned the concept around in the 1930s with the first tilting arbor table saw, and every manufacturer was quickly forced to follow suit.

I don't think it's meaningful to compare a more modern radial arm saw with such an old table saw.

 

[Mike65]

I have a table saw; miter saw, & a radial arm saw. I use all of them for different things I am doing.

 

[35Ford]

I have three radial arm saws, an older Craftsman that rarely gets used, and two older Dewalts that get used all the time. All three are mounted together on a long infeed / out feed table. For cross cutting one piece or multiple cuts with a stop, they are my go to saws.
I rip with a table saw, never the RAS.

 

[Matt018888]

I believe you made the correct choice. But I do use a radial arm everyday for cross cutting cabinet sides. Before I replaced my table I did do a couple of rip cuts and made a splitter that rode up and down the miter slot. Each time you moved the blade you would have to readjust the splitter to be inline with the blade but it did work quit well.

 

[jar944]

I believe you made the correct choice. But I do use a radial arm everyday for cross cutting cabinet sides. Before I replaced my table I did do a couple of rip cuts and made a splitter that rode up and down the miter slot. Each time you moved the blade you would have to readjust the splitter to be inline with the blade but it did work quit well.

That long arm delta (16" blade?) is likely a bit more substantial than what I'd expect the op to be looking at. Nice machine though.

 

[backupbeeper]

You need both

A good table saw and a sliding arm miter saw .

Depending on how much room you have , the sliding miter saws are available with the arm in front or arm in back .

If you have a deep Bench get the arm in back

 

[jar944]

You need both

A good table saw and a sliding arm miter saw .

Depending on how much room you have , the sliding miter saws are available with the arm in front or arm in back .

If you have a deep Bench get the arm in back

You can crosscut with the TS using a sled and have double the capacity of 12" sliding miter saw.

 

[Ricky Joe]

.

 

[Jackfre]

I have a Sawstop PCS. I had a ‘48 Unisaw which I had restored and loved, but I also have grandkids who want to be in the shop so the safety won out. RAS are excellent items if you get a good one, but I’d still vote for a TS. I’ve had a Hitachi C8FB for probably 25 years. I no longer use it as Miter saws are terrible on the dust collection side and that matters, a lot. The multi-function table, MFT, is getting a lot of play in my shop these days. It allows you to bring the tool to the material as opposed to the other way around. In a small shop that has helped my flow. I have had the Festool 55 track saw for probably 20 years and it is still rolling along. Festool gear is ridiculous money, but also really excellent quality. I also have the Festool 1400 router which works well with the tracks. I have a Parf Guide and make my own MFT. Check out New Brit Workshop on the tube. You might consider a band saw rather than a table saw. Very versatile.
I don’t know how far down this particular rabbit hole you intend to go and I hope you did well in your work career, because you can burn down a bank acct in a hurry with your preferred hobby, but, what the hell. It is for tools!

 

[Matt018888]

That long arm delta (16" blade?) is likely a bit more substantial than what I'd expect the op to be looking at. Nice machine though.

Yes, but I wouldn't buy a consumer grade radial arm saw if I was him. It wouldn't make a fair comparison

 

[Hooked]

I missed the recall period. Mine has an adjustable shield with a light and kick back fingers that blocks the front of the blade which helps for safety anyway. I could only find a couple pics online of the setup, it looks like only one model had it.

My old Craftsman RAS has been sitting idle for many years after I purchased a Powermatic table saw. It has a similar shield and kick back fingers as the above but is slightly older. My wife bought it for me as a Christmas gift around 1970 or so. I tried to take advantage of the recall but my model wasn't eligible. All they would do is purchase the motor assembly for $100 so I just kept it. I should set it at the street so free up space.

 

[lardy1]

Table saw is far more versatile than any other. I've never used a track saw in my life and really can't see why I ever would. Other than portability I see them as a waste of money. RA's are dangerous and inaccurate unless you get into the industrial level and I don't think you're there yet.

 

[seber]

I grew up with both saw in my dad's shop. When I built my own shop, I also had both. But when sliding miter saws came out, the RAS bit the dust. If I could only have one, it would be the table saw with a simple sled for crosscuts.

 

[neophyte]

Table saw, radial arm saws are not readily available anymore and for good reason. Table saw and a good miter saw is a far more flexible setup.

Home Depot purchased new Radial Arm saws for trimming down lumber at their stores.
The radial arm saws are made by the Original Saw Company.

Wood Cutting Radial Arm Saws - Original Saw Company

Original Saw Company’s Wood Cutting Radial Arm Saw is the powerhouse of the woodcutting industry. Unparalleled industrial quality and power.

originalsaw.com

The Original Saw Company from what I understand, is basically a continuation of the Dewalt Radial Arm Saw manufacture, after Black & Decker bought Dewalt for the name, and discontinued Radial Arm saw manufacture under the Dewalt name.

 

[imagineer]

I have both, and they both serve their purpose. If you can afford the shop space, a radial arm saw can come in handy.

 

[neophyte]

The radial arm saw blade moves towards one - that's scarier to me . I've had radials grab the wood and shoot forward - no thanks. The table saw can chuck things, but one learns to stand to one side...

I’ve seen plenty of sliding miter saws “jump” when the blade jammed on small off cuts or rough lumber shifted.
The blade guards on miter saws, particularly sliding compound miter saws, rarely fully cover the blade.
If there is kickback, the saw not only travels forward and backward, but also up and down, on a pivot.
Radial Arm saws in use only move forward and backward.

Nowadays, as far as powered saws go, tablesaws are the largest cause of injuries.
I still can’t find specific injury numbers for Radial Arm saws from back when Radial Arm Saws were commonly sold.

 

[Zeus36]

What's all this "radial" stuff? They're all "radio arm saws" on CrackList.

I've seen "radio alarm saw" too....

 

[bwringer]

What's all this "radial" stuff? They're all "radio arm saws" on CrackList.

I've seen "radio alarm saw" too....

Yeah, pretty much anything that's not a table saw (and even some table saws) gets called a "radio alarm saw".

no lo balers i no wat i got

 

[BombShelter]

A friend gave me a beautiful Craftsman Radial years ago, heavy as hell and mint but I never used it so I gifted it on. Right now I use my Corded Makita Track Saw (with Bosch Hepa Vacuum and Dust Deputy) and DeWalt Miter Saw more than anything.

My poor TOTL Jet Table Saw has been sitting new, in it's box for over five years along with it's matching dust collection system. Sure there's a few times I wish I had the big saw going, mostly for repetitive cuts but for everyday stuff like kitchen cabinets, shelves and trim, the other equipment is much more useful to me.

 

[Matt018888]

Home Depot purchased new Radial Arm saws for trimming down lumber at their stores.
The radial arm saws are made by the Original Saw Company.

Wood Cutting Radial Arm Saws - Original Saw Company

Original Saw Company’s Wood Cutting Radial Arm Saw is the powerhouse of the woodcutting industry. Unparalleled industrial quality and power.

originalsaw.com

The Original Saw Company from what I understand, is basically a continuation of the Dewalt Radial Arm Saw manufacture, after Black & Decker bought Dewalt for the name, and discontinued Radial Arm saw manufacture under the Dewalt name.

Radial arm saws can be made safer than compound miter saws as well. One reason why home depot resorted to radial arm saws is you can fully enclose the blade to protect employees, although you would be limited to simple cross cuts only.

 

[isb cornbinder]

I am a retired newbe at work with wood and I need a saw but not sure what one to get.

I have both. I never use the radial arm saw. I bought the RAS at a garage sale for $10. There are lots of them for sale because of going out of style and safety concerns.
A good Delta Rockwell table saw can often be found for under a $100 on CL or garage sales.
Check out Frank Howarth of You Tube fame. He is at the expert level of wood working and a member of the makers guild. Frank has sever of each saw style.

 

[Firebrick43]

Table saw is far more versatile than any other. I've never used a track saw in my life and really can't see why I ever would. Other than portability I see them as a waste of money. RA's are dangerous and inaccurate unless you get into the industrial level and I don't think you're there yet.

Lol

Never used one and obviously don’t care to learn anything about them.

If you do anything with sheet goods they are so much more handy and I dare say more accurate than wrestling even moderately sized panels on a table saw

If I could only have one, it would be a tough choice between my tracksaw or my unisaw if I didnt rip so much white oak.

Of course if some benefactor wants to gift me a large German slider I will willing give up both.

 

[Matt018888]

Lol

Never used one and obviously don’t care to learn anything about them.

If you do anything with sheet goods they are so much more handy and I dare say more accurate than wrestling even moderately sized panels on a table saw

If I could only have one, it would be a tough choice between my tracksaw or my unisaw if I didnt rip so much white oak.

Of course if some benefactor wants to gift me a large German slider I will willing give up both.

I do agree with you... The cut quality is amazing with a track saw. I my self never use it unless it's a odd shaped piece than needs squared up. I cut sheet goods on the table saw with a flip up indeed table. It works good. I Don't know what it is I just don't grab the track and saw and break plywood down. Could be it takes to long to make repeat cuts or I never built a dedicated cut table for it

 

[lardy1]

With good infeed and outfeed, I have no need for it. I've certainly weighed the option. I'm a woodworker. But I can't justify the cost just for breaking down sheet goods and I don't need the mobitlity. Therefore, it would be a waste of money. If I could have everything I wanted I would already have one. But the OP is weighing eiher/or here. I can't imagine being limited to a track saw. A table saw provides a person with a lifetime of education and improving skills.

I get why people like them. I get why people like laser levels. But I have the skills and other tools to not have to go buy the latest tools. I also have a budget.

 

[Firebrick43]

With good infeed and outfeed, I have no need for it. I've certainly weighed the option. I'm a woodworker. But I can't justify the cost just for breaking down sheet goods and I don't need the mobitlity. Therefore, it would be a waste of money. If I could have everything I wanted I would already have one. But the OP is weighing eiher/or here. I can't imagine being limited to a track saw. A table saw provides a person with a lifetime of education and improving skills.

I get why people like them. I get why people like laser levels. But I have the skills and other tools to not have to go buy the latest tools. I also have a budget.

You are going to be more limited with a RAS than a tracksaw and a small amount of accessories for the tracksaw.

A tracksaw can not only process sheet goods but can rip better than the dewalt and crapsman RAS that I have used with out fear of kickback. With repeater arms you can rip multiple narrow strips without issue.

With a simple MFT top it can crosscut and miter a few pieces faster and accurately before you get the sled on the saw or the miter gauge tweaked on a table saw. And it’s sure of a lot safer than a RAS.

Dados with a router in the track are safer than either the table saw or RAS and a hell of a lot cleaner than a RAS.

A tracksaw is great to cut out and straight side rough sawn lumber to align the grain and maximize yield saving an edge pass through the jointer, and the riving knife saving much cussing preventing pinched blades.

Then there is the space. The real estate that a table saw takes up to cut full size sheet goods is massive. Two saw horses of the style that can clamp a 2”x4”x8’ can be set up in the driveway (or even the lumber yard with new cordless tracksaw allowing someone. Then a small 4’x3’ folding mft set up nearly anywhere to the final work. All stores in the smallest of corners.

This is not to say that at least a table saw can’t do something’s better like rip thicker hardwood lumber, cut small intricate pieces on a small sled, or jig and fixtures to say finger joint corners.

I have seen multiple finish carpenters doing high end paneled libraries out of mahogany doing exceptional work with mostly a tracksaw/router and mft.

I think it’s narrow minded to infer you can’t learn woodworking unless it’s strictly at the feed end of a table saw especially when you haven’t admittedly learned anything about tracksaws.

 

[jar944]

This is GJ...

Get a Martin.


Or if you can't swing the Martin, you can settle for a Altendorf.

 

[aquinob]

With good infeed and outfeed, I have no need for it. I've certainly weighed the option. I'm a woodworker. But I can't justify the cost just for breaking down sheet goods and I don't need the mobitlity. Therefore, it would be a waste of money. If I could have everything I wanted I would already have one. But the OP is weighing eiher/or here. I can't imagine being limited to a track saw. A table saw provides a person with a lifetime of education and improving skills.

I get why people like them. I get why people like laser levels. But I have the skills and other tools to not have to go buy the latest tools. I also have a budget.

Track saws do more than just cut down sheet goods. I've used it for cutting corian counters and trimming the wild ends on trex type decking to make a nice straight edge.

Working outside on a deck rebuild I set up some saw horses and cut PVC sheet as vertical faces for the stairs and trim. If I was working with a table saw, I would be trucking back and forth to the saw rather than working a few feet away. I have plenty of skills too, but much less space to house a large saw with the space for infeed and outfeed. A table saw by itself is limiting, that's why I have choices.

BTW, I had my fling with larger table saws, started with a sears contractors, then a Unisaw bought new then a Delta 12/14 I completely rebuilt.

 

[Matt018888]

Track saws do more than just cut down sheet goods. I've used it for cutting corian counters and trimming the wild ends on trex type decking to make a nice straight edge.

Working outside on a deck rebuild I set up some saw horses and cut PVC sheet as vertical faces for the stairs and trim. If I was working with a table saw, I would be trucking back and forth to the saw rather than working a few feet away. I have plenty of skills too, but much less space to house a large saw with the space for infeed and outfeed. A table saw by itself is limiting, that's why I have choices.

BTW, I had my fling with larger table saws, started with a sears contractors, then a Unisaw bought new then a Delta 12/14 I completely rebuilt.

Love my delta 12/14 good saws

 

[johnre]

Home Depot purchased new Radial Arm saws for trimming down lumber at their stores.

Radial arm saws can be made safer than compound miter saws as well. One reason why home depot resorted to radial arm saws is you can fully enclose the blade to protect employees, although you would be limited to simple cross cuts only.

I would offer that it was probably more just a matter of needing something that can get through some of the materials they sell without having to flip it over and take a second pass - hardly anything else can mount a 14" or 16" blade. That's a no-go when the lumber they sell is as warped as it is from improper drying.

My hardwood dealer has a 14" Omga radial arm saw, and it's a beast - no problem with getting through 16/4 dense hardwoods in one pass.

I do agree with you... The cut quality is amazing with a track saw. I my self never use it unless it's a odd shaped piece than needs squared up. I cut sheet goods on the table saw with a flip up indeed table. It works good. I Don't know what it is I just don't grab the track and saw and break plywood down. Could be it takes to long to make repeat cuts or I never built a dedicated cut table for it

I agree that a track saw can do very good cuts, but everywhere I buy panel goods, they also have a panel saw - which is just as good a cut compared to a track saw, it repeats very accurately, and will guarantee things are all squared up. I just plan ahead and have them precut panels for me.

 

[Matt018888]

I would offer that it was probably more just a matter of needing something that can get through some of the materials they sell ithout having to flip it over and take a second pass - hardly anything else can mount a 14" or 16" blade.

My hardwood dealer has a 14" Omga radial arm saw, and it's a beast - no problem with 16/4 dense hardwoods.


I agree that a track saw can do very good cuts, but everywhere I buy panel goods, they also have a panel saw - which is just as good a cut compared to a track saw, it repeats very accurately, and will guarantee things are all squared up. I just plan ahead and have them precut panels for me.

I was actually told that from a original saw company sales associate when I called looking for a retractor. I have a older panel saw and I get quite a bit of tear out but maybe the newer ones have a anti tear strip like tracksaws

 

[bpwoodworking]

Different tools for different purposes, a lot of sold as do-all can actually do-all but having specialized tools is better when possible (It's obviously not always possible).

A good quality radial arm saw can be setup to do things that a sliding compound miters cannot. One of those things is trenching dados, which can also turn into tenoning for light timber work. You can do this on a tablesaw but it can be more difficult. On a tablesaw you have to move the material, where on a radial arm saw the material is stationary.

Same goes for a miter saw. I have one setup for precision, with an outfeed table that has a digital stop setup I can make parts with a high degree of accuracy. Oddly, I almost never use a miter saw for actual miters, those I do on a special table saw where the table itself slides.

In the home shop, you do what you can with what you have and can afford. In the professional shop the logic is going to revolve around the consumption of time and quality of output, specialized tools are faster and do a better job and are often left setup for a specific task.