derosa
Well-known member
The blade climbs, so in certain cutting situations, the carriage wants to run away towards you, or it will try to pull the workpiece(and you) towards the blade. Not so bad with a normal blade, but more aggressive cutting and shaping tools are extremely dangerous. As I noticed performing 7/8" dado cut...
The back fence? Fence doesn't keep the saw from climbing the workpiece and running toward you, and you have no rear fence when ripping, so that saw will **** the board from your hands. If it doesn't stall, it will take you right with it if you don't let go.
This all is not very obvious with a general purpose blade, or a light cut, it is aggressive cuts and big cutters that present these issues. If it is only ever used like a mitre saw, you may never see these problems.
These are the type of answers that make me wonder why people don't just come up with a better way of using it? The first time I used it I made the mistake of doing what everyone said was the right way of using it, I pulled the blade towards me and sure enough it climbed the wood, blew the circuit and scared the **** out of me. At which point I realized repeating that motion with that saw would have to mean I was as dumb as a post. So now I push the saw into all my pieces which hasn't resulted in any kickback, climbs or jambs of any form ever and I don't bother finding a negative hook blade either. The table comes out far enough that the blade isn't hanging into open space, the back fence is set far enough that I get full cut and it means I can only cut a board 18" wide and not 20, a difference I can live with so far. With the groove from the repeat saw cuts setting up a basic cross cut is easy, more accurate and faster then the tablesaw, miter saw might be faster if you have it set up with a table but then it takes up as much floor space and isn't as versatile unless you want to drag it out for every simple cut. Only thing I won't do on it is rip, but unless its ply I don't do that with the tablesaw either, its why I have a bandsaw that has a 18" *********** and that has never kickbacked or jambed on a rip which makes me feel a lot safer. Table saw still gets use but between the band and RAS not as much as most shops.
I just built a baby crib, finished 2 weeks ago, for a friend full mortise and tenon on everything. 72 spindles were a breeze with a RAS and a stop, rails and stiles the same. just put in a 3/4" dado setup and tenons were a breeze.

