Radial Arm Saw Tricks

[Richard D]

My neighbor pushed his radial arm saw to the curb and luckily I saw it before some scrapper. It's an old Craftsman. I haven't really used one of these in 30 years since my dad had a PowerKraft from Montgomery Ward; give me the low down.

 

[McFarmer]

Don't go thinking you can rip with one, even if the book says you can. Get it set to cut 90*, lock it tight and leave it. Make a jig to cut angles. The big new chop saws will out preform most RAS. Some folks can do everything with a good RAS, but know your limitations. Keep a good grip on the saw and the board, they want to feed themselves. Negitive hook blades are available and are good for RAS use.

 

[Baada]

My dad only had a RAS growing up...no table saw. I learned to make just about every cut I needed to on this but sometimes that meant my little brother holding over here and my buddy holding over there.

For free I would say it should be able to offer you some value.

 

[Steevo]

The best use I ever found for a RAS is for cutting 90º dadoes, such as in sides for bookcases.

 

[Racecarl]

My Dad has an old PowerKraft radial arm saw that he used to build a LOT of wood projects. You CAN rip with a radial arm saw--we did it all the time and we still have all our fingers and eyes. The PowerKraft had two drive spindles; one turned 3000 rpm and the other turned 20,000 rpm, so you could sand or use a router/shaper bit. I am not sure in the Craftsman has the same setup.

Dad had the choice of buying a radial arm saw or a table saw--he could not afford both. He figured that the radial arm saw could do more things.

 

[Outlawmws]

Before you get too wrapped up in that saw, Google "Craftsman Radial arm saw recall" and check the model number. There is either a guard replacement/upgrade, or a $100 cash back deal for the motor/carriage, depending on what model it is.

 

[sselander]

See if that saw is part of the Emerson recall:

http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/

"Emerson Tool Co. (ETC) is providing a repair kit consisting of a new blade guard or $100 to owners of certain Craftsman® 8-inch, 8¼-inch, 9-inch, and 10-inch Radial Arm Saws. Sears sold the 8-inch, 9-inch, and 10-inch saws from 1958 through 1992. The 8¼-inch saws were sold from 1990 through 1995. Is my saw part of this recall? 12 inch saws are not eligible for kit OR Rebate. "

 

[slip knot]

I use mine quite a bit for crosscutting and ripping. A RAS is safe as long as you respect it. My advice is to get the manual for yours and read it.

I have a 10in Cman and would have taken the $ over the crappy guard upgrade they sent me. I wound up taking it back off and tossing it. The MDF table and fence were very nice tho.

 

[crazytrain]

I use mine quite a bit for crosscutting and ripping. A RAS is safe as long as you respect it. My advice is to get the manual for yours and read it.

I have a 10in Cman and would have taken the $ over the crappy guard upgrade they sent me. I wound up taking it back off and tossing it. The MDF table and fence were very nice tho.

What was wrong with the guard? Why did you not like it?

I have a Craftsman RAS and got the recall and new guard it works fine and does not get in the way at all. The guard also acts as a safety to stop the saw from coming at you when you first turn it on if the blade is to low and catches the table. The guard will hit the fence and stop it. Plus the new set up moves the dust port from the front of the saw right in your face to the rear.

As far as rip cuts I made one and that was enough to scare the sh!t out of me. I was ripping a fence board and when I hit a small knot the off cut piece between the blade and the fence broke and shot out of the saw. I thought it was going to go through the wall of the shed. I'll use my crappy little table saw for rip cuts from now on.

 

[onewaydave]

There is a book out (50-60s or so), By Mr. Sawdust called "How to Master the Radial Arm Saw". Or something like that. The things that guy did with a RAS will curl your short hairs. But he was working before all the safety "concerns" became an issue. It was sponsored by DeWalt. The scariest thing I saw was a 4x8 sheet of ply standing upright and the RAS head rotated to put the blade horizontal. This was to rip sheet stock.

I read an exhaustive blog on a fellow that built a 23' sail boat with a RAS and hand tools. You can cross cut, rip, rout, drill, sand, bevel, buff, cut coves amoung other things.

I have talked to cabinet makers that would prefer a RAS to a new chop saw.

Dave.

 

[Richard D]

Thanks for the info, I'll order that book.

 

[Zeke]

The thing about a RAS is getting it in perfect adjustment and keeping it that way. Do a compound miter test: set the saw at a 45 for both adjustments. Set the blade down out in the middle of the arm so it just barely touches a perfectly flat and level (to the saw) piece of stock. Hand turn the blade as you draw the saw back and forth. It should just barely touch the stock at all points.

Obviously, unplug the saw before making any adjustments or tests. There are adjustments for all the facets of saw operation. do all the tests. If the saw is perfectly set up and the blade is razor fcuking sharp, it is a lot safer tool to use and will do a lot of work. In fact, if you will get a series of featherboards and USE them, you can rip all day long.

 

[ctb]

Had a job in a lumberyard when I was young. During winter when business was slow I used to be put on the "saw". This was a 16" Rockwell radial arm that was used to rip down 2x4's into 2x2's, cut exploration stakes, etc. Used to rip a lift of 2x4x16 per day. Kickbacks were common when the lumber was wet or frozen. Some of those 2x2's would go flying out the end of the saw bench like ****** arrows. Never got hurt though.

 

[wnstwolf]

Ripping is easy.. Mine came with a full set of Router bits that you attatch to the other side of the drive motor. Basically you remove blade, rotate motor, add coller and insert bit. Holy Poop batman can not believe I still have all my fingers. Also tried a panel maker / molder attachment that came with mine.. All I can say is I respect this tool. My best use for it as Steevo mentioned is perfect dadoe's

 

[pattenp]

I don't know if this is the same thing that you're calling a router bit attachment or not. But I have a molding head attachment for my RAS that's a disk about 3-4 inches in diameter that hold three cutter blades and you use it to make fancy moldings or edge cuts. You invert the motor head just as you described to use it. The thing is down right scary to use. I only used it a couple of time because it made too me nervous. The problem is the saw motor runs too slow to do a really clean cut. I instead use a regular router to this type of shaping.

Ripping is easy.. Mine came with a full set of Router bits that you attatch to the other side of the drive motor. Basically you remove blade, rotate motor, add coller and insert bit. Holy Poop batman can not believe I still have all my fingers. Also tried a panel maker / molder attachment that came with mine.. All I can say is I respect this tool. My best use for it as Steevo mentioned is perfect dadoe's

 

[gpalmer77]

I used to hate my FIL's radial arm saw, thought it was a death trap. After learning to use it, I love the thing. I rip on it in preference to a table saw. Best tool in my shop. I've made some really detailed cuts too, like Azek mounting plates for outside lights that are custom cut to the siding.

 

[Outlawmws]

I don't know if this is the same thing that you're calling a router bit attachment or not. But I have a molding head attachment for my RAS that's a disk about 3-4 inches in diameter that hold three cutter blades and you use it to make fancy moldings or edge cuts. You invert the motor head just as you described to use it. The thing is down right scary to use. I only used it a couple of time because it made too me nervous. The problem is the saw motor runs too slow to do a really clean cut. I instead use a regular router to this type of shaping.

Are you trying to make one pass cuts with the molding head? Even with routers several cuts are often needed for a clean cut.

While a router spins a lot faster, the larger molding head diameter increases the SFPM speed of the actual cutters, so I doubt that the molding head is cutting too slow. I would think motor loading and actual available HP at the cutter would be a bigger issue, depending on the saw's HP. (2-3 hp router vs. 2-3 HP saw, the router wins at the cutters edge...)

 

[Richard D]

Some RASs (not my Craftsman)have a second higher speed spindle.

 

[pattenp]

I usually had to make multiple passes especially with hard woods such as oak. I just didn't like the molding head attachment on the RAS. I found it to be unnerving to use. You know how it is with tools that are trying to be multiple things, they just aren't great at doing every job.

Are you trying to make one pass cuts with the molding head? Even with routers several cuts are often needed for a clean cut.

While a router spins a lot faster, the larger molding head diameter increases the SFPM speed of the actual cutters, so I doubt that the molding head is cutting too slow. I would think motor loading and actual available HP at the cutter would be a bigger issue, depending on the saw's HP. (2-3 hp router vs. 2-3 HP saw, the router wins at the cutters edge...)

 

[Thruxton]

I thought I would add my 2 kopecks here. I bought my Black and Decker (deWalt) RAS in 1970 for exactly the following reason. I've looked at table saws over the years but never was able to justify buying the one I would really want.

Dad had the choice of buying a radial arm saw or a table saw--he could not afford both. He figured that the radial arm saw could do more things.

So I have plugged on with the RAS, and I have used it for an incredible number of projects: four old houses, farm outbuildings, all the built-ins for a good size motorcycle shop, and on and on. I have also used it for some more sophisticated projects - and BTW Steevo is dead on here:

The best use I ever found for a RAS is for cutting 90º dadoes, such as in sides for bookcases.

More complicated joinery is possible if you follow Zeke's advice:

The thing about a RAS is getting it in perfect adjustment and keeping it that way. Do a compound miter test: set the saw at a 45 for both adjustments. Set the blade down out in the middle of the arm so it just barely touches a perfectly flat and level (to the saw) piece of stock. Hand turn the blade as you draw the saw back and forth. It should just barely touch the stock at all points.

In addition to that test you must also be certain there is absolutely NO SLOP in the carriage, and that the table is dead flat (which is actually how you start to get what Zeke refers to), I always start with a new one for an important project.

If you take time to get setup right (and really that applies to all machine tools, wood- or metal-working) you can get good results. I'll modestly offer these pics of a clavichord I made from English plans about 15 years ago. All the case work was done with my lowly RAS (the keyboard was done with a scroll saw and a router table, metal parts on a lathe), including the floating panel lid (all the stuff that looks like extra glue is just dust. it's a farm...):

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If you can find a good book - as noted above - get it! And follow ALL the safety procedures!

 

[Richard D]

Does anyone has neat ideas for a good table? Mine needs a new one.

 

[KenC]

A piece of 3/4 or 1" particle board topped with a 1/4" hardboard attached with small screws, out of the saw track, works well. As the top piece gets chopped up, just pull it off and replace. That way no set up is changed as the bottom is still rigid.

 

[pattenp]

If its an older Craftsman RAS and the right model # you can get a free new table top because of the recall.

Does anyone has neat ideas for a good table? Mine needs a new one.

 

[Kyle86]

What is "ripping"??

My experience with a RAS is high school woodshop class. You cut your first square side on a jointer, then it goes to the RAS for the 90 degree across the grain end cuts. Lastly the table saw took off the crappy part of the s3s board and you were left with a nice square board. Angles were cut with the miter saw. And special bevels for things like raised wood panels were cut on table routers.

I honestly did not know you could do anything wth a RAS besidse 90 degree end cuts.

 

[mdbeck1]

What is "ripping"??

My experience with a RAS is high school woodshop class. You cut your first square side on a jointer, then it goes to the RAS for the 90 degree across the grain end cuts. Lastly the table saw took off the crappy part of the s3s board and you were left with a nice square board. Angles were cut with the miter saw. And special bevels for things like raised wood panels were cut on table routers.

I honestly did not know you could do anything wth a RAS besidse 90 degree end cuts.

Ripping is cutting the board the LONG way. You raise the power head, turn the power head 90 degrees, lock it at the correct distance and lower it a small amount. Then feed the board ALONG the fence while the blade cuts the board.

You can use the same technique to make LONG dadoes just make sure you take light cuts.

 

[mdbeck1]

One of the more interesting things I used to do with my RAS was cut steel. I'd clean the sawdust up, put a metal grinder blade on, raise it to where the blade just barely cut the steel and run the blade over it. I would then lower the blade about an 1/8" and continue cutting until it was done.

It might not have been the safest thing to do but it worked.

 

[Old Moparz]

I inherited my radial arm saw when my Mother closed her packing & shipping business 18 years ago. Prior to getting it, I had only used one when I had a summer job when I was 16 back in the late 70's. We used it mostly for cross cuts, but once in a while we'd rip a long, 12 to 16 foot pine board. Never had any mishaps, but it wasn't my favorite type of cut to make.

Of all the saws I have, the radial arm saw is the one I use the least. I probably wouldn't have ever bought one, but it was very handy when I did the cedar & vinyl siding on my garage with lots of 45 degree cuts. I set it up along one wall inside with nothing else nearby & work went quickly. I have a table saw, compound miter saw & several circular & jig saws, so I don't need to do anything fancy with the radial saw.

I actually haven't used it since & it's been sitting in the corner of my basement shop under plastic for the last 15 years. There is some sloppiness to it so I'd never use it for detail oriented work. Instead of letting it take up space, I should at least make a slot for it in the new workbench I'm planning so I at least have the option of using it for cuts that are too wide for my miter saw.

 

[green.bubbly]

Here is my setup for ripping. I got my hands on a nice load of old long leaf pine that was originally gym bleachers for a local high school. I used several feather boards and along with the anti-kickback pawls on my saw, the boards ran through like butter. The blade in the first four pics is not the blade I used. I used the Diablo ripping blade.

 

[hchinaski]

Make sure you have the anti-kickback pawl if you are going to rip with it. Find the model number, the manual is probably available online.

The Mr. Sawdust "How to Master The Radial Arm Saw" is a great book if you have an old DeWalt, because all of the setup information is DeWalt-specific. There is another book from the 80s called "Fine Tuning Your Radial Arm Saw" by Jon Eakes that has info relevant to Craftsman saws (as well as DeWalt and Rockwell).

The key to safe and successful operation is getting the table perfectly flat, and then squaring the rest of the saw to the table.

 

[Enigma]

What was wrong with the guard? Why did you not like it?

I have a Craftsman RAS and got the recall and new guard it works fine and does not get in the way at all. The guard also acts as a safety to stop the saw from coming at you when you first turn it on if the blade is to low and catches the table. The guard will hit the fence and stop it. Plus the new set up moves the dust port from the front of the saw right in your face to the rear.

As far as rip cuts I made one and that was enough to scare the sh!t out of me. I was ripping a fence board and when I hit a small knot the off cut piece between the blade and the fence broke and shot out of the saw. I thought it was going to go through the wall of the shed. I'll use my crappy little table saw for rip cuts from now on.

couldnt/wouldnt the same thing have happened on a table saw?

 

[Enigma]

One of the more interesting things I used to do with my RAS was cut steel. I'd clean the sawdust up, put a metal grinder blade on, raise it to where the blade just barely cut the steel and run the blade over it. I would then lower the blade about an 1/8" and continue cutting until it was done.

It might not have been the safest thing to do but it worked.

how thick steel did you cut?

 

[My Old Tools]

Having two RAS is better than one (or in my case, 3). Set one up for 90 degree cuts and lock all the adjustments so they can't be changed. Leave the other for 45, 30, 22.5, etc. A long arm RAS will cutoff a 24" wide panel nice and square. Try that with your compound miter saw.

 

[Milton Shaw]

I have had mine for nearly 50 years. I used it a lot in years past but now use it mostly for cross cut dadoes. It is important that the setup is done and done right. Take your time and get the book that show how each adjustment is done, starting with leveling the table and adjusting the slack out of the column. . I had a friend that had one like mine and he was amazed that mine would cut 2x10's his would just burn it and trip the overload. He had never set his up. I showed him how and he was amazed at the difference.

 

[green.bubbly]

Thread resurrection of the year.

 

[1jjpop]

Saw for sale..

For sale a used table saw, good shape. Comes complete with gloves ,missing 2 fingers. A joke..

 

[Kevin54]

Thread resurrection of the year.

 

[ddawg16]

I built mine into a lower cabinet. Takes up less space and I have a rip fence that is about 10' long. I also have a spot for my compound miter which shares the same rip fence.

Basically....I can cut a board up to 16' long anywhere I want.

 

[Jay H 237]

I have a 10" DeWalt and like it for certain things, I won't get rid of it. Cross cuts and dadoing.

I don't have any pics handy but the neatest thing I saw was one with an old window weight tied to the carridge and to a pulley behind it with the weight hanging. It kept the saw from wanting to creep out and helped keep it under control if it started grabbing.

 

[driftpin]

Talk of adjusting out the slop, following the manufacturer's setup instructions:

I have two, 12" 240 volt Craftsman RAS's. One I bought new about 1979. The other I bought off CL, about a year-ago. I was trying to adjust the CL one, but had an issue doing it as I had done with my old one. I bought the carriage bolts from an old Craftsman RAS and if you've ever carefully-examined them, one in each set of 4 is machined with an eccentric to take-up the slop. I needed a second one to fine-tune my carriage. Now one tooth of the blade stays stationary and with the same distance from a square resting against the rip fence, and at 90 degrees from it, as I go from resting position to fully-extended, with the motor/carriage.

I had to make a new table-top. I used 3/4" plywood, and fastened a piece of masonite to it, for the sacrificial table layer.

 

[1953mercury]

I've had my 10" Craftsman for 43 yrs and it has been used to build at least that many homes. As said above proper adjustment is key (like any power tool) . I've replaced one set of carriage rollers in that time, and several table tops. I've had it wired for 220V almost from the start, and it makes a huge difference in performance. Have ripped thousands of feet of 1 and 2x material with very few issues. Like any power tool you need to know it's idiosyncrasy's, and respect it's potential for biting you. I just picked up an old Rockwell Unisaw in nice shape for free that I will need to build a fence for. I've always felt safer around my RAS than a table saw, but like many things, it's just what you are used to. Mike