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Radiant Barrier for Garage Door?

CHuDWah

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Joined
Aug 20, 2009
Messages
80
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Kritter Krick, Flaw-duh
My attached two-car garage is concrete block with an un-insulated door that faces north. Being Florida, the challenge is keeping heat out rather than in. I'm going to insulate the door and I assume it needs a radiant barrier. Is just some sort of foil (Reflectix, AtticFoil, etc) sufficient? Or is there an advantage to using foil-faced foam board? That would add more R-value but would it trap heat inside?
 
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burleyfarm

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Feb 19, 2009
Messages
401
Location
Northern Michigan
Is your ceiling insulated? If not I’ll would start there to reduce heat transference from the sun and to keep heat in during colder months if necessary.

Regarding the door. I would use the foil faced foam. Face the foam towards the outside and provide an air gap between the foil face and the door. This type of install accomplishes two things. It reduces the Florida heat from radiating into the garage and it provides insulation value for cooler or high temps. Although it will have R-value around 6-8 depending on the depth of the air gap and thickness of the foam it’s better than nothing. It’s amazing how much of an impact garage door insulation has on your comfort level in the garage.

I just completed this on my two garage doors and it has made a big difference on the heat that radiated into the garage (faces east) and it is helping to keep the heat in during the winter. I used 4x8 sheets from Lowe’s. Second picture shows my spacers for air gap. cf1ed791937428fd3e5076ddec847799.jpg99b27e2d8f46a073d16a055ed9329f58.jpg


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OP
C

CHuDWah

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Joined
Aug 20, 2009
Messages
80
Location
Kritter Krick, Flaw-duh
Thanks for the reply and apologies for the delayed response.

Ceiling is R-30 but adding to it is on the list.

Your installation looks really good. My door is similar to yours and I have a similar insulation in mind. I do have some questions. I understand you have the foil toward the door and the foam toward the inside, correct? How much of an air gap and what thickness foam did you use? I assume the air gap spacers are glued on. Did you also glue the board or leave it free-floating? How did you get the foam to bend enough to get it in the channels on the door? Finally, did you have to do anything (adjust the door springs, etc) to compensate for the added weight of the foam? Thanks again for the help.


Is your ceiling insulated? If not I’ll would start there to reduce heat transference from the sun and to keep heat in during colder months if necessary.

Regarding the door. I would use the foil faced foam. Face the foam towards the outside and provide an air gap between the foil face and the door. This type of install accomplishes two things. It reduces the Florida heat from radiating into the garage and it provides insulation value for cooler or high temps. Although it will have R-value around 6-8 depending on the depth of the air gap and thickness of the foam it’s better than nothing. It’s amazing how much of an impact garage door insulation has on your comfort level in the garage.

I just completed this on my two garage doors and it has made a big difference on the heat that radiated into the garage (faces east) and it is helping to keep the heat in during the winter. I used 4x8 sheets from Lowe’s. Second picture shows my spacers for air gap. cf1ed791937428fd3e5076ddec847799.jpg99b27e2d8f46a073d16a055ed9329f58.jpg


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burleyfarm

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Feb 19, 2009
Messages
401
Location
Northern Michigan
Yes foil to the outside. I used 1” white foam not the pink. The white is not as stiff and is easier to bend. The board gas foil on one side and a thin clear plastic facing on the other.

My spacers are 1/2” scraps I had from an other insulation project. I would have liked to have used thicker foam with a higher R-value for the big panels but if you provide enough air gap you actually increase the R-value of a foam board that has the reflective side on it. I also would have liked to have had a thicker air gap but there’s only so much room on these uninsulated doors.

I used foam compatible construction adhesive to glue the spacers in and friction fitted the large foam panels. Depending on the shape of the door frame, on occasion I had to cut small pieces of the foam panel to slide behind the frame and then **** joint the main panel to it. It took five panels to do my 16 foot door because of the length of the panels. I had a fair amount left over. It really added an insignificant amount of weight to the door and I have not had to do any adjustments to the springs or opener.

If you look at the last picture of the bottom right hand panel that’s installed, I fitted a piece of panel on the right side frame then I cut a piece of panel to slide into the left side frame and fit flush to the right side frame if that makes sense. Everything needs a spacer behind it. You have to slightly bend the panels to get them in the frames and I also removed the hinge screws as I went so I could slide the panels in the frame without tearing them apart. Everything fits nice and tight and works great.


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nastorino

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May 6, 2018
Messages
74
Location
CT
Burley, you mentioned that due to the OP being in FL to place the foil backer adjacent to the air gap and on the front side facing the steel door. I personally live in CT and we do get cold winters unlike FL. Would the same suggestion be made for my situation where I'm trying to retain in heat? I'm trying to hold off on the purchase of expensive pre-insulated garage doors.

Other question was, will you be placing the rolled foil barrier on the inside of the garage door to further insulate the hinged joints? Those aren't benefiting from the newest addition of foam you placed in the panels.

Thanks
 

burleyfarm

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Joined
Feb 19, 2009
Messages
401
Location
Northern Michigan
Burley, you mentioned that due to the OP being in FL to place the foil backer adjacent to the air gap and on the front side facing the steel door. I personally live in CT and we do get cold winters unlike FL. Would the same suggestion be made for my situation where I'm trying to retain in heat? I'm trying to hold off on the purchase of expensive pre-insulated garage doors.

Other question was, will you be placing the rolled foil barrier on the inside of the garage door to further insulate the hinged joints? Those aren't benefiting from the newest addition of foam you placed in the panels.

Thanks



I’m in Michigan so similar to CT. Yes I would still face foil to outside. I don’t plan to add any rolled foil barrier to the joints. It’s not a perfect insulated joint but it’s better than before. I do however plan on placing thin foam weather stripping in the joints to help with air infiltration. Did this at my last house that had factory insulated doors and it helped. My biggest problem is the side and top vinyl weather stripping. Always seams to let some air in no mater how I adjust it.


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Chetter

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Nov 30, 2008
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243
Location
Northern Ohio
I just finished insulating my garage doors as well. I used the white foam panels cut and placed against the door and then to finish it off, I used Reflectix foil facing to the inside of the garage. Sure makes a difference, I also purchased Green Hinges that are spring loaded to keep the doors tight against the door seals which made a huge difference, my garage faces the west and I get a lot of wind blowing against the doors. Since I heat my garage the foil helps reflect the heat back, garage stays warmer.
 

burleyfarm

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Joined
Feb 19, 2009
Messages
401
Location
Northern Michigan
I just finished insulating my garage doors as well. I used the white foam panels cut and placed against the door and then to finish it off, I used Reflectix foil facing to the inside of the garage. Sure makes a difference, I also purchased Green Hinges that are spring loaded to keep the doors tight against the door seals which made a huge difference, my garage faces the west and I get a lot of wind blowing against the doors. Since I heat my garage the foil helps reflect the heat back, garage stays warmer.



Any pictures of your Reflectix installed?


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Chetter

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Nov 30, 2008
Messages
243
Location
Northern Ohio
Here you go.. Total cost for my 2 doors was less than a 100.00 which I bought from Home Depot. Spent a few hours to do them, used foil tape for the seams when I butted up pieces. No gluing, just a tight friction fit into the channels of the door panels, works great and adds no weight to the door so don't have to worry about spring tension.
 

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fastsvo

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Feb 23, 2014
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I want to use the Reflectix material too...anyone know how effective it would be without using foam boards or is just not worth considering that?
 
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