Radiant barrier with metal roof.

[Codyboy]

I'm building a 16 x 20 shop / shed and just about have all the framing complete and will be ready to dry it in.

It will have a metal roof and sides.

Should I use a radiant barrier? If so, should it be the bubble type or the perforated type?

I have some perforated still left from some attic walls I did for a room above the garage.

But if I need the bubble type, I will buy some of that.

I doubt I will ever add insulation but could some day.

Thanks.

 

[rodder98]

I used the perforated kind that I stapled to the trusses, (bottom of top chord), so that there is room between the bottom of roof and top of the radiant barrier for the hot air to travel up to the ridge. At the ridge vent or at an off-ridge vent the hot air will vent to the outside. It works very well, and I would definitely recommend it. I bought it from atticfoil.com.

 

[Codyboy]

I used the perforated kind that I stapled to the trusses, (bottom of top chord), so that there is room between the bottom of roof and top of the radiant barrier for the hot air to travel up to the ridge. At the ridge vent or at an off-ridge vent the hot air will vent to the outside. It works very well, and I would definitely recommend it. I bought it from atticfoil.com.

Wasn't that a pain to do it that way?

I was just thinking about laying on top of purlins , stapling then lay metal on top.

Trying to imagine doing what you did.

I guess I could staple the perforated to bottom of purlins and still have a 1 1/2" space between the metal and radiant barrier. .

Sounds like you went perpendicular to trusses and I I would parallel it.

 

[XRlifer]

When I built my pole barn, my kit came with rolls of the bubble barrier. Silver on one side and white on the other. Silver side facing the metal, and adhesive strips on the side to stick together. It's been up for 2.5 years, and looks great. The only issue we had installing it was the wind! Best to install it on a calm day...we didn't have a choice, so we fought it but got it done.