Radiant Floor for intermittent use

[danmcph]

I love the idea of radiant heat but want to make sure it is the best solution for me. I life in SE Idaho. I am going to build a shop. Either stick built with spray on insulation or SIPS panels.

I am a hobbyist and am in the shop in the occasional weekday evening. Some Saturdays, but not necessarily every Saturday. It is possible I could go a month and not go out at all then be out every day for a week. It is really sporadic.

Is radient a good way to go or something that is totally intermittent?

FYI - I weld in my shop (Mig gun-blown air is a pain)

We have propane and electricity. No natural gas

 

[larry_g]

If you are in the hi dessert country then Solar panels on the roof are also an option. Gather the heat in the fluid from the roof and the floor becomes the heat storage unit.

lg
no neat sigline

 

[mygarageone]

You are talking intermittent now but what about the future ? If you really don't think it will ever be more than occasionally . I would go with a hot dawg or similar .
But there's nothing like a warm floor and feeling comfortable at 60 when your out there.

The next best thing is radiant tube heaters , they warm the objects and can be used like you are talking.

 

[anthony666]

You are talking intermittent now but what about the future ? If you really don't think it will ever be more than occasionally . I would go with a hot dawg or similar .
But there's nothing like a warm floor and feeling comfortable at 60 when your out there.

The next best thing is radiant tube heaters , they warm the objects and can be used like you are talking.

i agree .. you'll have to run the floor at an idle temp, and bring it up to where you want it starting as much as a day or more before hand depending on your set up .. it's gonna burn a lot of fuel just sitting there waiting for you .. however, i think for what it's worth you should run tube in the floor while you have the chance, if for no other reason than 'radiant ready garage' sounds a lot better on the MLS listing

hot dawg

 

[danmcph]

I may spend a lot more time in the shop in the future. (Like when I am retired and I am 37 right now)

Would i be best off going:
100% in floor
100% ceiling hung infrared radiant
Both and use the ceiling units to bring the temp up?

 

[The Cobbler]

....
Both and use the ceiling units to bring the temp up?

I think this

I am planning a build in the spring, want to put the tubes infloor for "future" I will probably never use radiant floor heat, but if I don't so it, I will kick myself forever for not doing it.
Raising the air temperature is faster & easier than floor temp.

 

[Mr onetwo]

IMHO... you should insulate with a minimum of 2" blueboard ,install the tubing and manifolds for future use(pressurize to 60PSI) and heat with a small tube heater for now. Don't skimp on the concrete(4500PSI min w/#4 rebar, not wire) and plan concrete depth for a future lift install.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I may spend a lot more time in the shop in the future. (Like when I am retired and I am 37 right now)

Would I be best off going:
100% in floor
100% ceiling hung infrared radiant
Both and use the ceiling units to bring the temp up?

I think this (Both)

I am planning a build in the spring, want to put the tubes infloor for "future" I will probably never use radiant floor heat, but if I don't so it, I will kick myself forever for not doing it.
Raising the air temperature is faster & easier than floor temp.

Cobbler nailed it ! If you never experienced it, you can not imagine how COMFORTABLE radiant floor heat is !

The "out of the box" heat source solution would be a mini split heat pump. Yes, it can make hot water for the floor (not real common in the US) as well as make hot air, more efficiently than electric resistance boiler of forced air and cheaper than propane. Installation will be higher, but you if you plan on staying there for a long time, it will pay back. Also you get A/C for free !


Don't forget at LEAST 2" of rigid foam insulation and vapor barrier underneath the floor.

 

[Flatland Dave]

I have in floor an leave mine at 50°, which is fine if I am working out there. If I am sitting and sorting tools or doing other non active activities, it is a little cool. I have and electric boiler with a 6" slab and 2" of foam.

I use my shop mostly on weekends with an occasional couple hours during the week.

If it is cold where you are at then 50° is really nice when it is 20 or worse outside.

 

[Crazy68Dart]

I would at least put the PEX in to future proof yourself. I am planning on it, even if I don't do radiant immediately.

Like you, I am 36 and know the reality of having a wife, young kids, etc., etc. and demanding career.

 

[walrus]

plan concrete depth for a future lift install.

And radiant pipes if you plan to have a lift in future, Don't want to drill into a piece of pex where your concrete is thicker for lift

 

[ksj9393]

And radiant pipes if you plan to have a lift in future, Don't want to drill into a piece of pex where your concrete is thicker for lift

This is very sage advice. I did not sink my PEX deeper as I was up-in-the-air about future lift, and now my aprehensions are keeping me from going ahead with buying a lift.

My slab is 4" thick, 4000 PSI concrete, #4 rebar at 18", with 2" XPS foam underneath. The PEX is stapled to the XPS, so theoretically, I should have 3+ inches of concrete. But from what I'm reading, most lifts want AT LEAST 3" lag shields for anchoring the jackposts.

Anyone else with advice or comments with respect to planning for lift?

 

[Crazy68Dart]

This is very sage advice. I did not sink my PEX deeper as I was up-in-the-air about future lift, and now my aprehensions are keeping me from going ahead with buying a lift.

My slab is 4" thick, 4000 PSI concrete, #4 rebar at 18", with 2" XPS foam underneath. The PEX is stapled to the XPS, so theoretically, I should have 3+ inches of concrete. But from what I'm reading, most lifts want AT LEAST 3" lag shields for anchoring the jackposts.

Anyone else with advice or comments with respect to planning for lift?

Split the difference and buy a 4 post... agree, would really be terrible to poke a hole in the PEX!

 

[theoldwizard1]

Back to the original discussion on radiant heat. Most have agreed, at least put the piping in. This includes air pressure check before and after the floor is poured and an IN WRITING assurance if the the system looses pressure, that the concrete company is responsible.


From another recent thread, if you get a reasonable amounts of sunshine, your best bet is to install some solar panels and sell the energy back to the power company ! With not too many panels you will actually be able to maintain a reasonable floor temp (40-50F) and still make money, enough to pay for when you need to crank up the temp and even put a few nickel in your pocket !

 

[UnderPowered]

For the cost of the foam board and PEX I think it is too much for an occasional user. If you want to go out and tinker when you feel the whim, it is easiest to flip a switch and turn on a heater. My Reznor heats my 36'x36' Iowa garage quickly (15 minutes) to a comfortable sweatshirt working temp of 55-60 degrees.

I couldn't cost justify even the cost of prepping the floor. For the cost of the materials, I could by a very nice two post lift ... and now I'm not laying on the floor anyway. I'm just not seeing the value there for the weekend tinker guy.

I'm getting ready to build a new storage garage/shop, 60'x68', and even for that I plan to section off an insulated work area 24'x60' with a lift and only use the hanging heater unit. I'll work on cars, build a kit car, etc. ... but our winters in Northern Iowa are only harsh for a 6-8 weeks at the worst, and even then my Reznor does a fine job.

 

[ambenz]

I agree with underpowered, I think underfloor heating isn't necessary. I have a $200 ventless heater and use a cheap box fan to move around the air.
My garage (22x30) is always above 55F all year round...so nice to walk in the garage and no chill....and on the cheap too...heat doesn't have to be complicated.
Keeping it simple also reduces equipment failures.
Floor/Radiant heating can be complex and costly....you could spend $200+ just on the plumbing alone.
Buying off the shelve heating equipment keeps you flexible on replacement options too. No need to find a heating supply company for a broken specialty part.
KISS= Keep it simple smarty.

 

[theoldwizard1]

For the cost of the foam board and PEX I think it is too much for an occasional user. If you want to go out and tinker when you feel the whim, it is easiest to flip a switch and turn on a heater.

Hard to argue with that, unless you have deep pockets ! Although, a radiant heat floor is the most comfortable heat you have ever experienced !!

I would still install at least 2" of vertical foam board around the perimeter down to the frost line. It will make a difference 5-10' inside the shop by preventing the freezing temperatures from migrating under the floor.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I am going to build a shop. Either stick built with spray on insulation or SIPS panels.

Please keep us posted as you make progress !

 

[Thumper68]

I'm in the future proof camp for the cost of a bit of pex you can have the most comfortable heat in the future.

Personally I would never build a shop with out the insulation under the floor anyway so the cost of adding the pex is a tiny add on.