Radiant Floor Heat Design Help

[smuth10]

I am in the initial planning steps of building a new 30x40 woodshop and after reading threads on here for months I have decided to go with radiant heat. I knew absolutely nothing about the setup for radiant heat so I have to thank all of the people on here who contribute so much of their time. If it were not for you guys I would be lost. With that being said, I would like to make sure my design is going to work before I start purchasing anything.

I have attached a diagram of my plan, so feel free to chime in on mistakes and ideas that would be cheaper or more efficient. FWIW I would like to keep the design as simple as possible. Right now the total is about $1600 without the copper fittings

General Specs:

2x6 walls with r19
10' ceilings on lower level
8\12 attic trusses
(4) 300' loops on 1 zone
2" Rigid Foam
Tagaki H3M-DV-N Condensing HWH. I know the condensing boilers are better and if I can swing it I may.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Scott

 

[smuth10]

Bueller, Anyone?

 

[Holeshot]

Have you started constructing your setup yet?

I just bought the same heat source (only mine's LP). Seems to be a quality unit and is rated from the mfg for space heating.

I had planned on running a primary/secondary loop with a mixing valve, two 3-speed Grundfos circulators, etc. All of the goodies should be arriving in the next few days.

I didn't see any hose bibs in your diagram for filling/draining.

To take care of that end, I have one of these kits in stock - seem to be VERY high quality for the money and give you the hose bibs as well as a good way to isolate the heat source if needed for maintenance, etc.

eBay link

What is the purpose of the temperature probe in your diagram? Right, wrong or indifferent, not many folks run those.

Regards,

Matt

 

[sands35]

Why 2 thermostats?

The takagi only needs to see water flow to turn on, not a thermostat.

 

[smuth10]

That was a drawing I made based off of what I thought I needed at the time. Still have a lot to learn when it comes to this setup. My shop is pretty much finished now and I will be starting on the Radiant heat setup soon.

To answer your question I did not run the temperature prob and I will only be using one thermostat.

Thank you for the link, I will definitely integrate those into the system. Do you have a diagram of your setup I could take a look at?

 

[bloomingtonmike]

I put a 30psi pressure relief valve after my spirovent and a clear y-strainer after my manifolds and two temp/pressure gauges on my copy of the hydroshark integrator panel.

 

[jlckmj]

I have basically the same size system as yours but with a tank water heater. I just use a line voltage thermostat that turns on the pump when it gets to the set temp. Very simple system and has worked great for 4 years now.

Jim

 

[Chris Stapley]

Do yourself favour and forget the 2" rigid foam,go to an HVAC dealer and purchase the panels with the blocks already molded in to hold the pex pipe in place,the savings in man hours alone will be worth the extra dollars. Finished installing a radiant floor a couple weeks ago in a 30x40 garage ,layer all the pipe to the header ready to pour concrete in just around two hours with one 16 year old helper,this would have taken us easily two days with flat foam, zip ties,mesh and a lot of curse words otherwise,completely converted after this experience! You can find a good example online link.
http://www.nudura.com/divisions/nudura-products/integrated-series/hydrofoam

 

[rotortuner]

That stuff looks super easy to use. saving that to my file for my build.

 

[Lootenny]

The molded panels, whether Hydrofoam or Crete-heat, save a lot of time, but at a cost in $$$. I can't speak to Hydrofoam, but Crete-heat was double the price of the same sq ft of R10 Foamular 250. You have to decide if the convenience is worth it.


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[Voi]

That stuff looks super easy to use. saving that to my file for my build.

Here's a build that used the Crete Heat.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179722

 

[Holeshot]

Here is a thread showing my somewhat complete system. Including the Matsui isolation/drain valves and the Takagi.

I still need to extend the 3/4" black iron LP gas feed line, run a dedicated home run for the power (I'm running it off a 25' 14GA extension cord for now) and install a zone controller/t-stat...its a work in progress.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312532

Beers,

Matt

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