Radiant guard in new construction

[Raisedonadeere]

I am starting construction of a stick build 24’x32’ detached garage this week. Still working out specs with builder but we are about done. Builder is doing concrete footers, slab and shell of building including doors and windows and outside trim. I intend to finish out diy with electrical, plumbing, insulation and drywall or osb and metal ceiling with blown in insulation. I am big on climate control. Will install minisplit at some point.

I am considering asking builder to lay radiant barrier such as RadientGuard over trusses as he does the 5/8” roof decking. I can see that being a real pain in the **** for him vs just applying decking to trusses. Especially on windy day.

Just looking for opinions or information on how motivated I should be to get this done. The RadientGuard is only about $160 for the material.

 

[superduty1]

What about using plywood with foil backing?

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[Raisedonadeere]

What about using plywood with foil backing?

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I assume there would be a significant cost hit. I haven’t priced the foil backed plywood sheeting, since I don’t ever see it at the box stores.i will ask my builder, perhaps he knows about it.

I meant to post this in general garage discussion. Made a mistake somewhere.

 

[Marctrees]

Location location location.

? ? ?

Radiant barrier ONLY benefits in high solar gain HOT areas.

And then, NEEDS to be installed correctly to function.

Google it.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Raisedonadeere - Use the ADVANCED search here on GJ Forum for Radiant Barrier in titles only.

ONLY fill in the "Keywords" cell with radiant barrier , and right below it select "Titles Only".

*** Leave EVERYTHING else at default.

Then click "Search Now" at very bottom of page.


Tons of info.

ASK here if you have trouble w the Advanced search... I always did till I learned to leave everything at default.

And the regular search is worthless.

Marc

 

[theoldwizard1]

I am big on climate control. Will install minisplit at some point.

Apply 2" of spray foam on everything, including the underside of the roof deck.

 

[Marctrees]

Yup on the Spray foam.

If 2", HAS to be CC to aachieve "Condensation Plane"

Best value ROI Bang for Bucks is OC everywhere, no Closed cell.

Approx 3 minimum in walls, 5 under roof, depending on Geo location.

I am able to give more detailed pricing if asked, recently got 6 bids in E TX.

We are going 7 under roof, 4 in walls... .5 lb OC.

1330 sq ft pole building 10' walls, 4/12 roof, 2 OH 8x10 doors... $3700 by well known company.

Marc

 

[beamrider]

All this should have been laid out well before BUILDER gave his bid. Get the #^it figured out before this stage, and everyone will be happier. I feel sorry for the builder.

 

[Marctrees]

I can only talk about foam direct to steel roof, like typical Pole Building.

Everyone that did that is very happy and would do again.

If you wanted steel roof, instead of 4x8 roof sheathing, you would just do 2x6 purlins.

Marc

 

[Raisedonadeere]

All this should have been laid out well before BUILDER gave his bid. Get the #^it figured out before this stage, and everyone will be happier. I feel sorry for the builder.

You are right about that, and bid has not been signed yet, we are finalizing the design but it is similar to one he has just built so he had prices that I agreed we are good to go, I just want to change a few things, like put windows in top of garage doors, ventilated soffits, upgraded trusses to allow storage in attic.

About the Radiant barrier, I was just looking for help here on how much of a curve ball am I throwing builder to do reflective sheathing since I was not familiar with these materials, cost and differences in installation labor etc. I have now researched it and it is not inherently expensive but local supply and availability and builders concerns over not being something he has done are the only things on the table. If the builder is not game to I will pass. stapling reflective material to the bottom side of the trusses creating an air channel from the soffit to the ridge vent is probably preferable anyway because it keeps the shingles a bit cooler and cost is trivial my labor is hobby cheap.

We are signing something and going to permit office tomorrow. And builder is ready to roll.

 

[Raisedonadeere]

I can only talk about foam direct to steel roof, like typical Pole Building.

Everyone that did that is very happy and would do again.

If you wanted steel roof, instead of 4x8 roof sheathing, you would just do 2x6 purlins.

Marc

My builder just suggested and recommended that I switch to metal roof because he could save me a bit of money that way.

Only reason I was doing shingles was to match the house but I don't think it affects the look all that much because from the road you would mostly see gable end of garage. And in a future reroofing of the house I would prefer just go metal.

That could become my plan. Metal roof with ridge vent, with metal ceiling on joist chords, blown in insulation, ventilated soffits.